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A couple of starlings

Northumberland

A couple of friends have sent pictures of sunsets this evening - the first from East Lothian and the second from Northumberland. The sunset set in North Nottinghamshire was a little less dramatic

Nice one! Seems I gave up the hunt too soon... Thanks for sharing.

So few more bits done, will upload pics eventually but it turned out the guy who got me into these black Octavia's still owned one, well two but his black one is on a trailer complete ready for the scrap yard! Now I'm suppose to be fixing my zafira but this is an opportunity I cant miss. So far I've replaced the following from this car. Centre air vent as mine had been broken by a phone holder. Boot inside trim as mine was missing. Roof aerial stalk as the car had a ****e shark fin thing in plastic! Drivers door mirror as mine has the wrong glass and no communication to vcds. Drivers window switch pack as the one touch was a little hit and miss. I also fitted the battery fuse box and tray and the alternator loom. The car broke down on its trip back from getting the wheels 100 miles from home on the m1 in road works! Lost charge to the battery and as they do no light came on warn me about the charge but the abs, traction, stereo and throttle pedal all gave up. The box was melted and bodged up. Managed to change the fuse and get it home. I fitted a Ebay £13 special fuse box but the loom was still burning hot both at the alternator and fuse box. Well my friend had never heard of this issue (lucky as hes had 4 Octavia's) and his loom and original fuse box looked good. Fitted them today and no more burning hot loom. Touch. The battery tray and fixings for the fuse box were broken on the car so changed them too. Bits to fit. Got a nice Abd inlet manifold which il fit when I can find my soldering iron to fit the resistors under it for the deletes. Neuspeed rear anti roll bar. All 4 door cards are in better condition, my car has golf GTI red recaros seats and the previous owner spray painted the white inserts of the door cards so I wanna try match the new ones to the seats or I may even try find a original white and leather set of seats. Overall the car is getting there. I've also bought a cloud9 catch can and 2 locking mechs to solve the 2 doors not working on the central locking. (I'm having the door looms out the doner car just in case). Centre caps have arrived for the wheels with the current skoda badge, need to fit them. Il do some paint correction and a polish st some point. Also considering joining the vwdrc for some drag racing next year. My old car did something like a 15.21 at 89 ish so thats a target to beat. Ultimately I'm very happy back in a vrs, ok I wish it didnt have the issues I'd have liked to have been made aware of but it's a old car so I cant be to mad. Just happy I know these cars enough to sort it. Ps my friends other vrs is a White ex police vrs with a tfsi conversion that he needs to get back kn the road. One day it will.

Glad i have 5 year warranty for the future tailgate problems 😛 It looks like it is not meant to last the cars life.

Thanks all. I've found an online manual that said to disable dynamic route in Sat Nav options. I've disabled this and will see how it goes (and will try to remember to feed back!)

Good evening ladies and Gents, thought it was about time i started a thread about my car, i know there's a few fabia's with a similar spec to mine but i "think" i was the first to have the RTMG hybrid in the UK, although theres now quite a lot and some have the upgraded 380rs whereas i have the 360rs, will add photos soon when i get on home laptop. I only ever had one target in mind for the car, to be able to get my kids in it to do dad stuff, then go to Pod and suprise some people. Current spec is as follows. Wossners forged pistons ZRP forged rods Custom/Universal intercooler, Custom 3inch exhaust RTMG 360rs Hybrid turbo with upgraded actuator etc RTMG Diverter RTMG carbon intake RTMG Kevlar clutch RTMG turbo intake pipe RTMG ecu and tcu mapping RTMG battery tray (turns it 90 degrees) RTMG coil pack adapter R8 coil packs AEM water meth setup iBoost boost controller with meth controller as part of it. (brilliant bit of kit, boost by gear/rpm, full obd monitoring etc) 312mm Brakes Corbeau Bucket seats. Full Wrap. Being fitted in 2 weeks, - RTMG valve springs and BC racing BR series coilovers, after that i don't really know what else there is to do on the fabia lol. other than going big turbo but the cost doesn't interest me, thinking of buying a 7 seater then i can put the fabia on a diet.

Complete turbo failure or a boost pipe has come off.

Love my midnight emerald green

(late to the party) Sorry to hear you've had so much grief trying to find a replacement! But as you said, pointless shelling out x-amount more for a car in worse condition than the one you currently own.

I got mine from SmartHomeCharge, who have several options of chargers at various prices. They have video reviews of their chargers. https://www.smarthomecharge.co.uk/ https://www.smarthomecharge.co.uk/guides/charger-selector-tool/

Should be fine then. My WiFi network actually only just shows one bar of signal strength on my phone where the Podpoint is, but it works ok. Where I actually wanted to put it was a bit hit and miss with the signal, so the installer recommended moving it. If the WiFi signal is lost or drops out, the pod point reverts to being on and available to charge so your car still charges just straight away rather than at the scheduled time.

Check out some of the YouTube videos by Artisan Electrics as they've installed a few different types of chargers.

You are welcome. I have the pod point schedule set to charge between 0030 and 1200, every day. I just plug the car in at night and the next day it’s charged. You can set the level of charge in the car or by using the Skoda app at any point before or after it has started charging. I have the pod point set to keep charging up to 1200 so if I need to put more charge in after I get up, or want to use the Aircon to pre cool or heat the car, it keeps the battery topped up to the percentage you set. Whichever one you get, make sure you’ve got a good WiFi signal where it’s going to be sited.

I wouldn’t claim to know much, if anything, about them. The only thing I’ve really learned is they aren’t actually chargers but E.V.S.E (electric vehicle supply equipment) and the charger is actually onboard the car. I went with pod point, mainly as that was the one pushed by Skoda. So far, so good. Installation went well and the charge scheduling with the pod point app works well ( the car scheduling is rubbish). From what I’ve read, I think the Zappi is a better set up for using with solar, but I’ve also read that even with solar, it makes more sense to charge an ev overnight on economy 7, and use solar to run washing machines or charge a home battery during the day etc. Theres a minefield of information out there, the more I read the less I seem to know !

I have had the 'AX4 Charge Control Unit' replaced today and the car is now charging at the higher rate.

All good i had missed a menu on my scanner just for airbags quick reset all good thanks anyway guys

That's somewhat unfair J.R. There are many that are coming to a 4WD vehicle for the first time and would't have a clue how the system works - they just trust that it will when needed. As you rightly say, the salesman whos is selling the car doesn't give the buyer chapter and verse on how all of the systems work, mainly because they don't know. It's obvious that you have far more experience with vehicles than the majority of drivers on the road and you've had a long time to learn the things of which you speak. Nowadays, folks buy a car and expect it to do what it says on the tin and if it doesn't, they get someone else to deal with the greasy bits and the modern electronics. The days are mostly gone when we used to do a lot of work on our vehicles ourselves. I'm guessing we're of a similar age and I've held an HGV licence and driven them, plus motorbikes, cars and many types of electrically driven vehicles, but that doesn't mean that I know (and I don't) how a Haldex system works and whether it's working as it should be.

Dowty washers seal axially. There is no need for any fancy solutions or even replacing the plug, VAG macining tolerances mean that a plain steel washer will seal against the machined aluminium sump, were it a steel sump with a copper washer the there would be some merit in replacing it, I wouldn't unless its face was damaged. A steel washer against an aluminium seat is not going to get damaged.

And what, add it to the existing captive washer, attempting to create a radial seal onto the smaller-than-thread-size plain shank part of the bolt? (Instead of the designed face seals either side of the washer?) Or remove the old washer somehow? Have you done this with this style of plug + washer?

Floor it on slippery ground. Since the Haldex Gen4 the system engages preemptively, i.e. when you start driving off or when you are accelerating from a steady speed the rear wheels will get more power through the Haldex clutch. The Haldex controller gets inputs from the ECU and even before there is slip on the front wheels the rear wheels kick in if "asked" for by the ECU. The Haldex is disengaged when braking and when the handbrake is on.

Thanks @robp1970- that's worth knowing. Although I admit that they lost me as a likely customer at the point where you said that you needed to pay for a courtesy car! Is that a normal thing? Vauxhall has always given me a free car as long as I have booked in with enough notice. I'd be interested to know your thoughts on the dealership in the Forest when you have been, it isn't that far over to Cinderford in the scheme of things.

Caught a little sunshine in Scarborough yesterday

My MPI started fine from cold if it had reached full temperature(needed margin) before shutting down the previous time. If it just reached nominal working temperature(without margin) it was more difficult. Worst was doing short trips a few minutes after leaving it for an hour or two of cooling down. (Grocery store) When starting from cold it normally ran fine the first minutes, and later on when starting to get warm, the engine ran less smooth. But it never stopped when running for me. Worth noting regarding error codes: I had quite a few error codes about Running Rich and Running Lean, but engine lamp only lit twice or so during 500 km driving with this issue.

Thanks for sharing. I have ordered one

Hi, did mine last year two minute job if memory serves.

Hi All, I went for an Amazon cable called "Duttek USB C to Mini USB Cable, Mini USB to Right Angle USB C Cable, Right Angled USB 3.1 Type C Male to Mini USB Male Converter Cable Cord for Digital Camera and More Mini USB Devices 0.26M/10INCH" - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B075M4CQHZ And I used it to fit my Nextbase camera as shown in the pictures. It tucks in nicely behind the rear view mirror and is fairly central below the lane assist camera. Hope this helps, Mark

HID's in our Octavia with projector lights were perfect so LED's might work. The Kodiaq is reflectors though so not really worth the risk.

Hello Octavia drivers! I have 2005 Octavia II 4x4, 2.0 FSI (BLX). From a few months I have very unusual problem while driving and till now no one can fix it. If I go slowly for ex. on 4th od 5th gear and about 1800 rpm, seems like engine tugging (not much), feels more like something wrong about wheel or tire (but checked in service and all 4 wheels and tires are in perfect condition). When I go faster (90-100 km/h) and release the accelerator, between 2400-2100 rpm feel litlle vibration and appears hum in exhaust (not so loud). After 10-15 km when the engine temp. is already 90°C and I go fast (90-100 km/h) and release the accelerator, there is no cut-off! Looks like accelerator is little bit pressed and display on dashboard shows fuel usage 2-3L/100 km instead 0,0L/100 km. When I press accelerator feel no power and fuel usage shows 30-40L/100km, but from time to time it returns to normal, but again when I release accelerator there is no cut-off, when press no power. The worst is when I drive up hill. When I slow down and go for few minutes about 50 km/h everything is back to normal (just tugging a little when go slowly). When I go faster, everything wrong is back again. The warning lights on dashboard don't light up. Checked all in few services: there are no errors, engine works good, all engine parameters perfect. Done: cleaned throttle (+adaptation), cleaned intake system + valves (there were not much carbon in fact), new valve cover with PCV, new clutch position sensor. No one can find how to solve this problem. Does anyone have an idea what it can be?

HALDEX Pump has gone SOUTH!!!! Okay, this system is a HALDEX4 pump system, which means it is usually always connected, but at 15% power to the rear wheels. My first port of call will be the pump. I think you will find this has failed. The failure is caused by a blocked filter. You will need a new pump, a new filter set, pump o'ring and some HALDEX fluid. All of this can be obtained by the brilliant guys from HALDEXPARTS. The filters can be found here: https://haldexparts.co.uk/products/111358-audi-vw-seat-skoda-gen-4-awd-oil-filter?_pos=2&_sid=dd085baae&_ss=r&gclid=CjwKCAjw_L6LBhBbEiwA4c46uhXhX_nUc-ec5bd_Kk3iZ_ihz4n1HVBUW45sAyCn0zNSiq-_mCdoQxoCurAQAvD_BwE Don't forget that once you can changed the fluid, please advise your customer to change the fluid every 20k miles, otherwise they will get another pump failure. Don't forget to 'properly' recommission the pump - otherwise the pump won't relearn with new fluid. Don't forget to retop-up the HALDEX fluid after the re-learning process. You may need a VCDS to get this process to work (haven't tried it on ODBEleven b4): https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/17963/#post-159502

Well the Zoe EV goes from strength to strength it seems on the results stated by the onboard computer. Started the day yesterday with about 240 miles of range but went to the NEC, ie 35 miles away, did my visit, dropped someone back to their house in Redditch and went home so did 70 miles but when I got home I still had over 200 miles of range stated ! Used the onboard Google over the Airways nav to get back from Redditch and it took me back via a load of 30 to 45 mph lanes which the Zoe seem to love, pulled the power consumption back to the 5 kWh rate. I am just stunned at the, if anything, understated range of the Zoe. I do really believe it can do 270 miles with a cruise at the infamous 56 mph once used for extra-urban fuel consumption and if one is forced to do only 40-45 mph down the country lanes then close to 300 miles is possible range for the Zoe. (At least in this circa 15c ambient temp). I will top off on 4.9p Octopus nuclear base load power after midnight, will cost me a princely 75 pence or so, wonder if the range will show 270-ish, that would be stunning, currently 75% charge and 204 miles range displayed.

Which doesn’t really fit in with UK sales profile SMMT September car sales figures split as follows : petrol 43.8% EVs 15.2% mild hybrid EV petrol 12.7% hybrid EV 11.6% plug in hybrid EV 6.4% mild hybrid EV diesel 5.3% diesel 5.0% So basically diesel is down to only 1 in 20 cars in UK (10,658 of 215,312 sales), and the Enyaq (the only Skoda EV) is nowhere near 15.2% of Skoda sales, which shows that Skoda is not able to reflect UK demand

I've not swapped it, but it'll just prise up. You can then choose from the following Skoda DSG DSG 4x4 (which obviously you dont want) DSG L&K DSG RS DSG Scout Have a look at 5E0713146 (Just says Skoda), then at the end after 6 use the letters A to M. I quite like the look of 5E0713146J for some reason, but as my normal DSG one is fine, I won't be changing unless I really have to, it probably looks really cheap in real life though https://www.obautodily.cz/nahradni-plaketka-radici-paky-skoda-automaticka-prevodovka-s-napisem-dsg-prolisovane-provedeni-11563cz1763/ You can also see the bottom of the badge on the above link, which helps a little knowing how it pushes down

I could just put the passat seat from the other fabia in and put a resistor on the wiring for the airbag, probably what I will end up doing if I do it. I want to say its a 3 ohm resistor thats used to "remove" airbags without tripping the airbag light. I kept the foams and covers from the mk1 but they're quite bad, mouldy too. Thats another thing, make sure your rear door carrier seals actually seal before winter sets in. Mine were bad and it destroyed my car inside, albeit my car was sat for about a year outside when that happened.

What book tells you to floor the throttle on an uphill section when in snow, ice or slushy conditions? The system works very well left to its own devices, if you need to floor the throttle for the RWD to cut in then it was not needed in the first place.

Thanks! I couldn't find any cat-backs for the rapid either so I've booked it in with SC Performance who are my local Powerflow dealer, gonna get a custom stainless catback with no resonator or DPF, can't wait to be a yob! Whilst the car's there it's also getting the EGR blanked, an induction kit and a remap. I am a bit wary of the remap SC Performance plans to give it as they don't have a dyno and it seems they're using third party software so I'm gonna ring Celtic Tuning and another local tuning company who I've heard good things about and I know have a dyno to see if they'll remap and dyno it instead. I'm hoping for 160hp ideally! I've just looked on Ebay and it seems Maxton are a bit all over the place with their prices lol. I do want to hold off on exterior mods until the wheels have been refurbed and it's been lowered, seems there's two decent sets of springs for sale; H&R and Eibach, not sure which to go for as I need to test fit the wheels again and measure how much room I have to play with. Also thinking of getting some carpets as my car didn't come with any apparently?? Whilst we're here I'll mention the car's had a full service at an independent Skoda garage as well as various bushings replaced, new timing belt, water pump and an OBD diagnostic to see if it would throw any faults but all is good and the Rapid is at 100% health.

AGM = Absorbant Glass Mat which is a Stop/start type battery. Looks original. Thanks, AG Falco

A trial fix in one car is t exactly a move forward to be honest. For 7 months that minute amount of progress should be an embarrassment for a company of this size. And having to be without a car which you have bought for 7 months should say it all really.

I have the same problem with my Karoq - 3 years and 2 months old. 😞 Waiting for the dealer to call me back about it.

Driving data.

First may I please express my sorrow that you are all still left floundering by repeated hollow promises and no positivity for the Brand. I also had a MK4 1st Edition and first began complaining 12 months ago and after directly contacting Pietro Panarisi ([email protected]) Head of Press & PR he directed Stephanie Keenan ([email protected]) their Brand Liaison Manager Tel 01137334219 to oversee my case. Sadly that result was incredibly similar to your current comments and the 'words' are strikingly the same. Fortunately my dealership was completely on-side and I took a full refund last May. During the whole debacle I never received any support whatsoever via Skoda UK. Together with other affected owners I contacted Honest John but to be fair that came to very little. I find it very difficult to understand why this has never hit the mainstream press and personally I would advocate contact with someone like Matt Allbright at the BBC or Rip Off Britain as you will need to create a media storm if you are to achieve your just deserts. They cannot be allowed to continue to ride rough-shod over their customers. I wish you the best of luck and do hope that you achieve a satisfactory outcome at no loss to yourselves.

Crossed no. 155 Whin Rigg off the Wainright list. Looking over towards No. 128 IIlgill Head

Will you take it to the slipway and give it the same road test that exposed the problem? See if the front wheels stop spinning and the rear wheels engage drive. I’d be down there in a heartbeat 😀

Thought I'd dig this up! I finally got round to taking my car to arnold clark for an appraisal on Friday. The online offer was £23,239 and after looking at it for 10 minutes they offered me the full valuation plus an extra £9 because I over estimated the mileage. Quote from the manager of the dealership 'we will be here all night looking for something wrong with this, it's an absolute credit to you'. So to answer my own question from the start of this thread... yes, yes they are that strong!! Car will be going this week and I'm retreating to the land of 10 year old diesels that can be parked anywhere and carry lumber inside and outside!

Thank you guys for the introductions! Really appreciate it. I’ll have a look at the websites you linked Kent, didn’t know they existed Hopefully I can get to work on it this weekend. Thanks again, hopefully it will all go smoothly!

Good looking motor! Always prefer the front chrome in black. Fully reccomend getting the Maxton splitter too (have a look at Maxton's ebay shop, often cheaper than the actual website). From my knowledge, there's little on the market for Cat-backs for the Rapid. I had one custom made/fitted by a local exhaust specialits (Pipewerx).

First skoda and thus far very happy. Also looks good in silver i think.

After been a Skoda fan for over 20yrs now with a selection of Octavias in that time and lastly a Karoq ….I thought in 2020 I would investigate the EV market hence why I got the Citigo IV in place of the Karoq…..EV seem the way to go moving forward and I’ve been happy with the experience on the whole apart from the charging issues and Skoda not being able to or want to rectify the problems i want to upgrade my vehicle now …..looked at the 80 kw Enyaq but after the experience with the Citigo I’ve reluctantly decided to leave Skoda’s behind and after driving my sons Tesla model 3 have decided for much the same money as the Enyaq i can get a Tesla which seems years ahead of any thing other manufacturers seem to be making at the moment and has been very reliable for him. He drives around 20.000 miles per year and averages around 300 range which would suit me fine i will keep the Citigo as a second car for the time being as it really does drive nicely and is very economical Sorry to be leaving Skoda now but can only respond to service we seem to receive from the VW group now

I’ve done the same, but never had to start the engine to move to P before removing the key. I have always been able to move the gear lever to P without the engine running.