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As mentioned near the start, we also plant UK trees. In theory we can go and look at them... maybe use google images to see how it's going We've got 7(trees) so far, Who -> link -> what3words location @BJB540-> https://ecologi.com/briskoda?treeId=6080475053e8e226f71f21eb -> https://what3words.com/spared.regal.doctors @Rustynuts-> https://ecologi.com/briskoda?treeId=60a7d44a0c5596478194a5b1 -> https://what3words.com/storage.brush.inventors @Gaz-> https://ecologi.com/briskoda?treeId=60d0b2cd0cb1ce427218a024 -> https://what3words.com/roofed.shampoos.prowling @FUBAR-> https://ecologi.com/briskoda?treeId=60f83fc8cfbe27191bf1ed25 -> https://what3words.com/adapt.retaliate.firepower @MikeTheThinker-> https://ecologi.com/briskoda?treeId=61211e4b8774f7eb663e0de7 -> https://what3words.com/distract.somewhere.remove @varaderoguy-> https://ecologi.com/briskoda?treeId=6149fcc5a5e9e4e00ee6e530 -> https://what3words.com/distract.somewhere.remove 'fraggles' -> https://ecologi.com/briskoda?treeId=617189c50888826a11b8ba20 -> https://what3words.com/foster.flippers.slogged @AnnoyingPentium https://ecologi.com/briskoda?treeId=61c203560bf34f7ecd599690 -> https://what3words.com/harmonica.replenish.unrealistic @Auric Goldfinger https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499434-auric-andy-goldfinger/?do=findComment&comment=5619560 I'm going to 'award' these trees to the planters thus far... although my plan was tripped up by one by @AnnoyingPentium Your's will be next Now of course I'm likely to have missed a few, but these I can reconcile. If you have supported, let me know which ones, and I'll add you to the UK tree list

Suspect he is top dog!

Just bought 304 from kevin_Mc 😎 staying put in glasgow.

@Gizmo you are needed...

I presume you're looking for this guy?

A very interesting Top Gear video from 1987 of the Favorit, on a favourite Welsh road. As I commented there, we had one, in the early 90s (J reg), again my wife's car, I had the three Estelle 2s before. IIRC the boot light doubled as a handy removable (rechargeable) torch. I do well remember the lunchbox bulb kit and the sturdy tool kit in tool roll, neither ever needed on that car - but would have been very handy for all our British cars over the decades before and after that.

Thank you

A few more

No idea either. But they'd be the only people who could legally supply a plate with that name and postcode on it.

Hello everyone My name is Felipe, I live in Chile and I have purchased a skoda vrs mk3 2017 last week, I'm really enjoying the ride learning day after day of this amazing model, hope to participate, collaborate and learn from you all! Some of my mods Is38 Revo stage 3 Etuners stage 2 tcu tune Short ram intake Afe dry Decat silentpro Axle back milltek Big fmic

Yes, from the original supplying dealer!

@nta16, yes that was one of the suggestions that I passed on along with sending SEAT UK a tracked letter with a title like "Letter before action", without claiming any ownership of either suggestions.

Thanks but wouldn’t dream of returning it - said I’d take risk! I’d put in the old board if it was same part number, but since they differ (C suffix v F suffix in my son’s car) I’ll just wait for correct relay, and also not have any problems with different data etc. Ironic as it looks like only component change on the board is that relay (also used for rear wipe in place of Tyco one on the older board).

Very true. Our black Toyota Auris was a right pain. You could blink after washing it and it was filthy! I always thought the Race Blue was a very nice colour and I'm gutted you can't get a standard Mk1 Fab in it... without a respray obviously.

Lovely colour, an absolute pain in the bum to keep clean - although, so's black so.......

all fixed now. replaced the switch and had AA out to clear the fault

And most of the way up the rear edge.

As you correctly say a momentary push button is required. Many owners of VW Golf Mk5 & Mk6, Audi A4, etc. without a start/stop have done exactly this using the start button from those models (when I owned a B7 RS4 this was how it was equipped from the factory i.e. key switch for accessory and ignition plus a push button for start).

I've been busy with the Combi and got some jobs done over the last few weeks mainly trying to getting it up together for the colder months. The nearside door mirror didn't de-mist and upon inspection found the previous owner must of fitted a MK4 Golf mirror glass as oddly the connecter for wiring is at the opposite end and wouldn't reach. Both of the mirrors must of been replaced at some point because they didn't have the OE blue tint so I bit the bullet and replaced them with the correct versions and now work perfectly. The rear window de-mister also wasn't working, I checked the fuse first which was fine so I stripped down the tailgate trim and followed the wiring finding one of the tabs had broken away from the glass itself. I managed to secure it and is also now working as it should! Finally I got round to wiring in the heated Recaro seats courtesy of loom from Kufatec. I'd sourced a 255 relay and the correct Skoda control switch from a L&K Octavia and got cracking. It's a fairly straightforward and with the use of a voltmeter you can easily work out what wires to splice into from the headlight switch. Well worth the effort and it's great to have a car with heated seats again especially with winter looming! Now onto the big update:- I've finally started the process of getting the car ready for its respray! Today I got the rear bumper off and tackled something that's been bugging me for ages... The tow bar bracket IMO is hideous and I have no intention of using the car for towing. I removed the crash bar and cut the bracket off with a plasma cutter - a little over kill but such an awesome bit of kit! I bolted the bar back on and offered up a secondhand bumper I picked up without any cutouts and I'm bloody chuffed with how much better it looks. I continued stripping and got the front bumper off, all four arch liners, headlamps, taillights, side repeaters, and the tailgate trim. I didn't find any horrors when removing the arch liners etc with bodyshell in good condition, even the tailgate only has minimal corrosion a well known issue with the Combi. The only corrosion I do have to deal with and treat is behind the window rubber on the offside rear door and the bottom of both the wings. One note on the wings, if you haven't already I'd remove the arch liners and take a look behind them as I must of had about 2kg of earth/sand back there! absolutely horrendous, I can't imagine why the wings are suffering with rust! 😂 Plenty left to remove and I've got a ton of paint preparation to start but I'm really enjoying this process. Without even thinking I was just going to go over again with 'Black Magic' but my colleagues (also petrol heads) have suggested a colour change and its got me thinking... Granted its a little more prep work etc but I have access to a spray booth at work and will be doing everything myself and have plenty of time to do it justice. Obviously Red, Silver, and Yellow are off the table because I could just buy a Mk1 in those colours anyway but maybe a nice blue or a green would look smart? It needs to be the right colour and sympathetic to the age and style of the Octavia, basically I don't want a bright orange or a TVR inspired flip paint! 😂 Perhaps a VAG based gloss or metallic colour? Any opinions or suggestions would be most welcome, even if it's to keep it black which at the moment I am leaning towards as I'd like to keep it original. Sorry for the long and tedious post!

Front door panel to be removed with screw on side behind small cap, 2 torx bolts behind handle and turn a bolt 90degrees at bottom of panel near the projector light. Disconnect some connectors and water hose for umbrella and panel can come off with some lifting and force.clips will not break when temperature is above 15 degrees C. Most likely golf 6 speaker adapters can be used for the midbass speaks, but thats what i have to confirm.

What diameter front and rear brake discs does your Octavia MK3 have? As you can see from the information below, there are four different front brake disc diameters and two different rear brake disc diameters. Once you know this information, you can find out the OEM part numbers for the brake pads and brake discs from the below link to the Skoda parts catalogue. This is the best way to find suitable aftermarket parts. Knowing your car's build codes makes it easy to find what front and rear brakes are fitted. For example, build code 1ZE would mean that you have 288mm diameter front brake discs, and build code 1KD would mean that you have 253mm diameter rear brake discs. Front Brakes 1ZF 276mm TRW 1ZE 288mm TRW 1ZA 312mm TRW 1ZB 312mm TRW (Same as 1ZA, except calipers are red) 1LG 340mm TRW Rear Brakes 1KD 253mm TRW 1KS 272mm TRW 1KT 272mm TRW (Same as 1KS, except calipers are red) https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2016-753/6/ The EuroCarParts that you have selected can't be correct, as you have selected 276mm front brake pads and 288mm front brake discs. EuroCarParts doesn't know what build codes you have (ie. what brakes you have), even though you have entered your registration number.

Good job you didn't bet your house on it being the scuttle drains (joke for a (possible) viewer). Yeah I used to do things like taste tests but now I'm a lot more cautious, certainly I'm older and perhaps a little wiser.

Your car is very clean for its age. 👍

That was the only possibility that I thought of Wino, so worth a try. Thanks again for sending relay. On the old board I bought there are another two which both test OK, so at least I'm not short of relays!

Seems changing job and a few other things set me back again... I've extracted myself from one set of volunteering things... Some new trees for the missing months: Augusts trees: https://ecologi.com/briskoda?treeId=6173f076b00f6b45fc940b86

Thank ords, im not currently driving the carcthough, tool it straight to dealers after its last cut out, but thanks for this suggestion to manage any future instance of it happening.

So in the light of day. Scuttle drains are all clear, You can pull off the rubber and lift the plastic up high enough to get your hands in without removing the wipers. Time to go for a run with and without aircon to check if the aircon drains are at fault. The water coming in is clear and tasteless and the coolant level is fine so I doubt it's from the heater matrix.

Thanks!

That's quite harsh. I can think of several reasons why regular updates are useful. 1. You may be selling your existing car and need to get an idea of when you are able to. 2. You may be planning a holiday that requires the new car 3. You may be deciding to cancel if the car is not here by X date Etc etc I find myself in a fortunate position that I don't have to sell my car until the new one arrives. There are others who are in a different position. Even so, it's "nice" to be kept updated about the status of my order. Not essential, but nice.

I would go with the Phillips Activision 130% H7 bulbs as these are a nice compromise between brightness and longevity.

You have the right readings. DPF will come on if soot levels reach 9g. It's then time to do a forced regen. BTW - keyfob 2 needs a new battery and you potentially need an up to date version of VCDS (is this software genuine?)

Welcome to the forums!

@Pods good choice. I also have these. The quality and fit is excellent.

Buttercup has some surface rust on the sills, corner of the wheel arches, little on the bonnet edge and scuffs to her bumpers (which also need new clips, any direction on where to order bumper clips would be great guys 🙂). I don't think she's ever seen polish in her life, so is currently an array of yellows. I will attach some piccys later 🙂 I was super-duper lucky and able to get my hands on a set of se leather seats and door cards, which she's having installed in a couple of weeks. So if anyone is after a set of pretty decent cloths, I have some going 🙂 Going to tackle the leaky doors sometime this week, common issue I believe so watch out for this. Found some super fix vids on YouTube for this. Hey, silver ain't so bad! I think silver looks sexy with the contrast of the black trims, and dents are character hey! Rusty pics to follow.

Whilst I agree with you, I can see that it makes some people feel a little more warm and fuzzy and like they're getting acceptable service from the dealer - haven't been forgotten, if you like.

turbo may have to wait till June 2022. Still have to gather more info. want to finish the handling department and the braking too. Has some issues with the racingline kit and now I’m considering a more easy to find brake set up as the racingline prices and quality are not what I expected from such a expensive kit.

Clockspring is foutu.

Sounds like logiclee, if lucky, may only need to grab stuff from above the filter and a quick look on my wife's car I can see the blower wheel and fresh air flap fully open and you could get an adult arm, and half a tree trunk, down there without removing wiper arm, but if the wiper arm comes off easily then fine, note its position before removal. Personally I'd leave the present filter installed and get a vacuum cleaner hose or crevice tool in there to get out as much as possible first, I've no idea where the drain channel or tube goes after that. Always a good idea to check and clear the exist first but as I hurt my back removing the front wheel because of the stupid design of bolts instead of wheel studs do use two screw-in studs to take the weight of the wheel and locate it on removal and replacement. Once there's some reasonable clearance of blockage top and bottom I add small amounts of very warm water with a funnel and directing hose to loosen and transit any small muck, crud, grit, small debris and then poke around top and bottom again, more very warm water and so on until clear. Add small amounts of water each time and check it's exiting where it should overwise you're just topping up the spillage. Flexible semi-stiff pliable rods or wires with rounded-ends to save scratching and damage or rounded open ends to hook out blockage, anything to part the blockage and put holes through it without compacting it more or hook it out. Easier for me to do than describe! 😁

Thank you, it's a low mileage car that's probably been garage stored originally so I reckon that's what prevents it from looking like a right shed. That's on my to-do list actually. Can get the whole set of originals for £45 on the 'bay. That's also part of the plan too. I reckon I need an excuse to justify it to myself however, so if there's a broken coil coming up for the MOT then you'll know why.

Access to the exit of the scuttle drain on pollen filter side is almost certainly just behind the rear half of the NSF wheel arch liner. You'd be able to scoop out blockage with a screwdriver or similar; if you prefer taking a wheel off and a bunch of torx fasteners holding the plastic on, rather than going in from above. This is on a mk1:

doctored Some helpful comments. What you're saying about tariff in the future makes a great deal of sense. The day rate for the intelligent-octopus is 23.76p /kWh. That is quite a bit more than I'm going to be paying with British Gas (People's Energy was my supplier until recently). If I calculate my current usage and estimates for the car and compare the Octopus costs against British Gas, British Gas wins. I'm a heavy day user of electricity - work from home with computers + several marine fish tanks (heaters + pumps) and a hot-tub. Yeah, hot-tubs are expensive to run! If got rid of the fish and the hottub then that cheap night rate would probably make sense. Actually, you make me think: I read an article about people who "store" cheap energy to use later. I could over-heat the hottub at night on the cheap electricity, so when it's cooling down during the morning , it's actually at the correct temperature rather than cool. I think some more calculations are required. You make a good point!

I feel dirty coming back here to the Enyak forum. Because, sorry... my test drive was great. It was really fun to drive. The sales guy couldn't get the GPS to give me a sensible route and charge option so that wasn't ideal - demo effect! - but the experience with the car was great. But... I can't face the long winter journeys knowing now that it would mean two stops and the uncertainty about charger availability and time. Plus here (in Finland) they (the dealers) are totally failing at selling the total offer. I am totally bewildered about the home charging possibilities and it is all way too much to worry about for me. I started this journey thinking PHEVs were a waste of time and a temporary patch... but my few weeks seriously considering the Enyak have sent me running into the arms of the Octavia PHEV. Basically I can have "the Octavia of my dreams" including enough electric range to do school and hobby daily driving, avoid holiday and winter range anxiety, and even get a VRS badge, and come away spending much less the Enyak... and not have to worry about home charging upgrades. So, yeah sorry, but I am heading back to the Octavia forum (and their iV software problems that I will avoid but not taking the driving assist nonsense... I hope... ;))

Later last night we decided to complete the installation and we were successful. Pics for proof Wire for light goes under the left headlight assembly and behind the top part of mask to right side and from there to the light through the lower grille. Attaching the ground of lights wiring harness was pain in the butt, simply minimal to none space available for tools.

Could be anyone of a number of things but very dangerous. I once had a Honda Prelude that did this turns out it was a common problem caused by previous owners having loads of keys on their keyring. Eventually the weight of the keys caused this fault and a mechanism on the lock had to be replaced.

looks liek something heavy has been dropped on it from above... any building work going on nearby or have you parked near any skips / builders vans /DIY shops?

I ordered my VRS TSi DSG back in Feburary. It was due to be built w/c 15th August but was then delayed with no information available re when it might actually be complete. Skoda live chat didn't know and the dealer had no further information but they've just confirmed the car is built and is on the way to the port for shipping to the UK. Bit of a surprise because I've been so used to no info being available but despite theories about diesel and iV being the priority, there's clearly hope for anyone who ordered the petrol engine. I'm now just praying that it doesn't turn up with the litany of tech issues that so many others have experienced. Also, as a side note, I complained to Skoda Customer Relations and they've been very helpful. That help included providing a hire car for a month for a family holiday so, although the wait has been frustrating, I wanted to share that positive experience.

https://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/169335/1995-skoda-favorit-foreman-pick Maybe you can get an idea.

Update Few days back we had heavy rain and inevitably for me means: blur in the windows, traffic, low visibility front and almost nothing on rear. Pushing the button for the rear glass resistance does not help me at all because it takes too much time to clear the whole windows and meanwhile i already have arrived at work,, i am a lucky gay and my work is not far away from home so no matter if a open the rear resistance till arrive at work the rear window will just have some lines cleared. I have use some products in the past but since the root is short these don't work good. All these years i have huge problem because i can not see anything from the rear mirror, here is a characteristic example: Here is what i can see via the new mirror, the camera helps me to the maximum extent ! My only visibility was the side mirrors but now i am more confident in the rain and in next post i will show how the rear camera helps on parking those days with heavy rain.

And here's my final setup. 1000w JBL in custom enclosed box with the right amp. Kept the canton sub connected also, why not. No other changes to the oem speakers. Not a huge change in "size" of the bass but the punch is way stronger and it just fills in better.

Can no longer view the listing but this was the title, the cost was £7.95 for 5, I have an optimistic memory!! Indexa Hlr-16X51 Red Die Spring - Heavy Load - Pack Of 5 ( 142644293618 ) And for the bonnet strut I bought a pair for £7.28 including 2 different sets of ball end fittings M6 and M8 but people seem happy to pay the Superskoda price. https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/18021615666?iid=132708377524