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Sadly, you both live far away, so no danger of that. I think I'd like it if you were neighbours. 🙂

All done clean bill of health and another 12 months of hassle free driving for the little furby lol until the next thing goes pop 😄

If you park under a totara tree in windy Wellington, with the sunroof open, expect a car full of leaves. In other news, they washed the back of my head liner board and loads of black stuff came out of it !!

Had the green VRS before so went for something a bit plain this time. Picked Moon White. Only issue is it's a bit bad to keep clean, but very happy with the colour. The black gloss is contrasted well with the Moon White

Take it if you want, I would use my French one. I will be completely removed from England within 6 months, all that remains is a few sticks of second hand furniture and some duplicate tools, my two workbenches currently making the outside workshop under the carport are the only things that I know for sure will be leaving with me. I did all the post Brexit customs declarations for the previous removal journeys they were classed as one removal and have to be completed within 6 months, that has now expired

I know. I shouldn't be allowed out without supervision 😛

I'm hoping to use my plug-in electric chainsaw tomorrow. Guess I should try to pick a break in the rain?

I've done it with a hover mower and also a hedge trimmer

VRS iV Estate in Red Velvet ordered in June, I was originally given a week 34 build, then week 44, then 'we don't know' which was very helpful. Had a message from the dealer today to say the car is built and on the way. Should have it in December apparently. Which will be a lovely Christmas Present if it happens.

Reading this thread, I don't think there is anything wrong with your chain. Even with the revised chain and tensioner its possible to experience a brief chain rattle on start or more seriously a loud machine gun clatter I've witnessed this on many occasions on 2 engines one 2011 with the revised kit, and another late 2013. Two reasons behind this 1) A brief (<2 secs) rattle at startup is possible because although the hydraulic tensioner is extended with oil pressure, there is also a ratchet mechanism incorporated. This is stepped, so its possible for it to slip back up to one step when stood, slightly loosening the guides. On earlier revisions, this ratchet was quite weak and could slip back or even strip completely and become useless. The new tensioner also extends to a longer length than the early one. 2) More seriously when the engine has turned backward or put in a situation where reverse torque has been applied. This happens for instance where the car is parked in a forward gear while facing uphill, transmitting a turning force in the reverse direction. Perhaps you put the car in gear while you changed the filter and pushed the car back a bit, it only requires the slightest movement..... This has the effect of tightening the chain and exerting excessive force on the adjustable guide, forcing the tensioner back and simultaneously allowing the chain to go slack on the non adjustable side. This is quite a dangerous situation that could lead to chain detachment on the bottom sprocket depending on how stretched it is. So, if you hear a really LOUD machine gun / death rattle on start up, SWITCH OFF IMMEDIATELY. Then restart and chances are all will be quiet as the chain will have engaged in the sprocket properly and oil pressure will have tensioned the adjustable side as you turned off. There is an official method of measuring chain stretch and this involves removing the hydraulic actuator and measuring the position of the guide with a depth gauge. However this is more about fobbing off a customer in my opinion. A loud regular tick, rpm related is normally from the high pressure pump more audible at tick over and nothing to worry about. Some misleading information about the oil filter, there is no non-return valve (thats in the oil pump), and the servicing drain down arrangement is a combination of the sprung wide O washer closing off the drain orifice in the oil housing, the smiley mouth in the pic below .. There is a bypass valve built in the filter as most canister filters have, that opens to prevent loss of pressure when the filter is blocked but not relevant in this discussion. I strongly advise against the use of the cup socket for tightening the filter as its really easy to overtighten which you will regret when it comes to removal when the O washer has swollen making it difficult to remove. Hand tight is fine. I presume you have the correct filter, if you give us the exact part no you use I will check it is the later style. Forget all about the carbon build up/flushing rubbish discussed earlier (unless its been totally neglected and done over 40,000 miles on the same oil) Best way to clean an engine internally is simply change the oil. (504.00 or 502.00)

My UK house is a small semi-detached but on a corner plot, I built a nice garage years ago, then a shed for woodworking extended with a wooden conservatory then converted as a tiny self contained chalet which is what I have been living in when in the UK since 2004, now both demolished as the land is sold which has paid for the new French house. It already has the lean to barn with enough headroom, its where they stored the tractor. OK, I see what you mean about open air, yes I much prefer that, am working under a cantilever car port at present. I have lived in France for 17 years in total immersion, have never mixed with the English or spoken English, my funny foreign ways only show when I return to the UK.

All info in the first post here in this guide I wrote a few years ago..Its the same for MQB platform as your car .. How to retro-fit a bigger capacity battery to a Mk7 Golf | GOLFMK7 - VW GTI MKVII Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVII Forum

Just a massive thank you to @DieselMonte who saved my bacon when the seat adjustment handle snapped off on my Fabia. He was also kind enough to send over some headrest guide pins for my middle rear headrest retrofit, all out of his own pocket. Thank you very much, good sir.

Update: I got this fitted. I put a guide in the Fabia Guides Section for anyone else who wants to give it a bash. Thank you to everyone who helped with this.

Same here. Rapid charging hubs like Milton Keynes coach station charger hub, the Braintree charging forecourt, new Rugby services are the only ones I'd plan to rely on when travelling with other people in the car. All others with just single or even 4 stalls, I'd have to plan to arrive with miles to spare for Plan B when looking at the route. I said 4 stalls because with ever increasing EV owners, anything less than 4 is liable to queuing. It's amazing in late 2021, public charging is still such a farce.

My car came with a $6500 Premium Package that included many features including DCC, Heads-up Display and Drive Mode Selection I cared for and "Premium German Canton sound system (12 loudspeakers, digital equalizer)" and others which I was indifferent to. I had never even heard of Canton. And my 70 year-old ears have seen better days so I am not that picky about sound - so long as there is enough treble to compensate for my loss of high frequency response. Anyway I am quite happy with the Canton sound system although I never use the equalizer, cannot detect the sub-woofer and never turn the volume up past 50%. And the sound sources I use are either DAB or Youtube Music so probably not the highest of fi! I don't think I would have ticked a box to pay $AUS 1500 or whatever is the equivalent of what you guys paid just to get the slight sound improvement over our 6-speaker VW Golf Alltrack. Just as I would be very disappointed to have paid specifically for the crap voice control, or the almost crap SatNav, or the Park Assist and Lane Assist that I dare not use, or the automatic Matrix LED lights that people still flash me for, or the ability to customize the ambient lighting. Nor would I pay for the 19 inch low-profile wheels that it comes with. Would be happier with 18 or even 17 and any of the available wheel designs. Less road noise and cheaper to replace. On the other hand I would trade all of those for a return to buttons and knobs and straight-forward menus and instant starts and reliable operation and no need to reboot the system to restore functionality. At least it is so nice to actually drive.

I am currently without the shanty town and all the things you describe and a lot more are languishing in 3 mobile site hut trailers awaiting my move to my new property. The whole of the ground floor is a workshop with the living accomodation above, a lean to barn on the side which may be cropped on the photo and 1/3 acre of land

these guys are amazing, that they can even convert the Front of the bumper/headlights to the new facelift. https://www.facebook.com/autoprestavbycz/ https://auto-prestavby.cz/

A few more with my camera.

Keep us posted with pics. I also found and ordered after some digging these oem looking stick on paddle extensions. I will report back when they arrive

Few of the latest pics... Now remapped to stage 1, Rear half roof wrapped. Maxton front splitter on. Callipers painted red.

I asked my neighbour to borrow a small electric chain saw (battery IIRC but it was very many years ago) my wife got to him and said she didn't want me using a chain saw, just because I once junior hacksawed into the top of my thumb, but that another story, so when he brought it across and asked what I was going to use it on he did the work instead. He asked what else needed doing but that was all, so embarrassing as he cut through in about 20 seconds, but it'd been very awkward for me to get my handsaws in there, I didn't realise you could get chainsaws so small as he used a big petrol job on his trees, that I didn't want to borrow. Then of course it was 10 minutes of tea drinking whilst my neighbour gleefully agreed that I shouldn't be trusted and mickey-taking.

Aye good shout. Don't let @TMB or myself near it either. We're a hazard to everyone's health within a 100 yard radius

I had a 2-stroke one many years with the driven wheels which made it great considering my garden is on a slope but we went for a 'leccy one because it was cheaper My Granda has done it was a hedge trimmer and a rotavator

I've owned numerous cars with rear drums and had zero issues with them sticking - hence my immense dissatisfaction regarding the VAG vehicle I purchased new

Might cost you a wee bit in petrol, but that's the least of your worries.

Thanks Lee! The cloth fabric is ever so slightly lighter, but I think it is just dirty actually. I'll clean it and report back.

If anyone is being put off the idea of using this service due to the 'downtime' or inconvenience of having to visit the car twice, once to remove the module, once a few days later to refit the repaired original, I may be able to offer a slightly different arrangement. An exchange system where part of the price is refundable on receipt of your original. You let me know you need a replacement/repair job, either by posting in this thread or private message. Include full car details (year/model/number of electric windows) please. If I have a repaired and fully functional unit suitable for your car, I'll let you know. The initial price will be higher than for a repair, but there will be a proportion of the price that will be refundable once I receive your original, non-working motor module in return. It will have to be that exact module (the original your car was built with), so I know which car it suits. You would pay up front, receive a working motor module in the post from me a couple of days later, swap that into your car and send me the original in the post. This way you can get in behind the door-card just the once, to remove original and fit replacement. £119 for this variant, with £60 of that as a refund to be returned to you once I have your original in hand. So final cost to you will be £59 plus your postage cost for the return. I think the added convenience of this for you, my customer, may be attractive? If I have your unit type available, it'll be already packaged ready to post, so I should be able to post it out the day you message me if it's before about 4pm and we can sort payment out promptly (mouse over my username on the left to get a pop-up including 'Message' option) .

SH!te...... One of the better networks. Goes to show how much over and above the acutally cost they feel like they need to charge. .......... ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- InstaVolt issues statement in response to unprecedented rise in wholesale energy prices – 25 November 2021 25th November 2021 InstaVolt announces increase in pricing from 40p/kWh to 45p/kWh, effective 1 December 2021. The network has maintained its underlying price since 2017 despite a continued increase in wholesale energy costs during this period Adrian Keen, CEO of InstaVolt said: “We are in a period of unprecedented increases in the wholesale price of energy that is affecting consumers and businesses nationwide, including InstaVolt. As a result of this I am announcing a price increase on the InstaVolt network from 40p per kWh to 45p per kWh, effective 1 December 2021. Rising energy prices are being felt by all. A homeowner seeking a new energy supply deal today would be offered a tariff similar to public charging, demonstrating the price pressures being faced. Whilst we have put our prices up 5p, this does not reflect the full cost impact of wholesale prices more than doubling, and we have for now absorbed the difference whilst we await market price stability.

Hi Muttontop "I’ve read on this forum that there are 2 antennae’s for the DAB with one situated in the rear screen heater element" As far as I know, the two antenna (diversity) setup is only applicable to FM. The technical characteristics of DAB make it resistant to the effects of multipath reception (lots of reflected radio signals in the reception area) so only one antenna is necessary. I don't have any technical detail on the Yeti DAB antenna, but imagine it is incorporated in the roof-mount unit, different parts of which serve AM, FM, DAB and sometimes GPS. It will have a dedicated DAB coaxial cable between head unit and antenna, and there may be a pre-amplifier in the antenna base which will need a 12 volt feed at fairly low current. Again, this feed may share the antenna cable or be supplied separately. If it comes down the antenna cable, it may be necessary for the head unit to be programmed to provide it, but I would expect this to be the factory default setting anyway and it won't come and go. If the DAB antenna is faulty/disconnected, or if any associated pre-amplifier is not powered, you are unlikely to get any signal strength indication or any reception at all. There have been past discussions on this forum on the roof mount antenna and its cabling. If water gets in, parts may fail but this may only affect some bands. DAB reception can be a little patchy, and the fallback to FM is supposed to tide you through a small blackspot before reverting to DAB. It sounds as though the head unit is managing to switch to FM, but is failing switch back again for some reason.

Buy a pet goat 😜

Very strange English disease and Scottish golfers I suppose. 😁 I used to cut my neighbour's grass and the grass verges outside mine and a few other neighbours, it was like working on cars for me in that it could only be done when the weather was right which is the very times you don't want to be wasting your life's time on such things. Now I no longer do any grass cutting I can't say I miss it at all, I had to use small electric mowers with at least a couple of extension cables and the cables were always a PITA to handle and deal with despite the nearly 40 years of practice. A friend was going to buy a place with a fair bit of land between roads and part of that would have been left wild.

What do you think to changing the chain tensioner? Or is that ignition chain noise just part of the charm 😁

I bet one of your mobile huts is bigger than our place, you're just flaunting your wealth to the likes of me without. 😁 Being serious I do live in a very small semi-detached but I wasted our money on British cars and hi-fi (a lot of that British) but what you have is something I thought would be handy for a hobby of redistributing money from old car ownership. You've got to build on the side though for the lift, unless you go open air. You could be a true loyal Englishman, living abroad with "foreigners and their funny foreign ways" with deliveries of the Daily Mail. 🤣 At least you have the good manners to put up a photo without bright sunshine. Those wooden(?) doors would have to go and I'm thinking of how much concrete driveway and parking I can get in to save bothering with all that grass stuff, the rest could be left to become a world renowned wild life sanctuary but I expect you'll have to have a sit on lawnmower out of old habits. 😁 Good luck to you, I hope the locals don't mind your funny foreign ways. 😁

I have had mine since April. Done a tour of Northumberland, a trip over to Devon and several across to Thanet, plus the usual wandering around home on the Surrey/Sussex border. With 1.5 engine it is surprisingly quick if you need to overtake caravan/horsebox/tractor/pensioner (delete as applicable). The gearbox does its stuff almost imperceptably. I regularly cross the North Downs with some very steep gradients; no sweat going up or down. The box holds itself in 3rd or 4th on the way down until I touch the accelerator. It is easy to spin the front wheels on take off but that may be the tyres. It has a decent sized boot; bigger than a Golf or Audi. My only beef is the digital dash and infotainment. Whereas actual buttons/switches/knobs can be operated with one hand without taking my eyes off the road, it is far too easy to get distracted by touch screen menus. I have scared myself a couple of times when I realise I have driven half a mile or so without looking at the road. In short I reckon it's an Audi for Fiat money.

The cigarette lighter normally runs all the time on VAG cars. The normal way of wiring the camera in is to use an "add a fuse" in a spare switched circuit. A dashcam can drain the battery down surprisingly quickly.

I've noticed they do seem to unstick easier if you try to go backwards first

235/45R18 will be a good fit for a 7.5Jx18 ET51 rim when fitted to the Superb MK3 (or Passat equivalent). 215/50R18 will stretch the tyre to the max on a 7.5J rim, as the ETRTO allowable rim widths are 6J to 7.5J for that tyre size. Rims width for 215/50R18 https://www.toyo.co.uk/tirefinder/index/width/215/aspect/50/rim/18 Rim widths for 235/45R18 https://www.toyo.co.uk/tirefinder/index/width/235/aspect/45/rim/18 Skoda sell a 7.5Jx18 ET46 alloy rim for the Superb MK3, although the usual Skoda size is 8Jx18 ET44. 7.5x18 ET46 Trinity Alloy Rim https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/hlinikove-disky/c/alloyWheels?q=%3ApriceAsc%3AcarType%3ASuperb%2BIII%2B%282015%2B%29&page=0

Thanks all, I’m sure I’ll still be around but I’m definitely excited for GTE life 😊

Couldn’t keep the shell as it’s a cat b had to be scrapped. I’ve got the complete wiring loom front to back

Today was the day for stripping the doner cat b I purchased All in all very pleased the rad pack was unfortunately bent and beyond saving but engine and box look good, I just need one driveshaft at some point To this

I've got the original 280 and tbh the only time I notice the power is when I'm overtaking. The superb really doesn't handle like a hot hatch, it's a barge thats better suited to the motorway than twisty roads and if you're used to an octy vrs, you will be dissapointed for a while because of it. The power is nice to have when its needed but at 155.9p for a litre of super unleaded and 30mpg it's expensive to run as a daily driver. Mine costs me over £300 a month in petrol, and I probably get less than 400 miles to a 65 litre tank (When full it gives me a range of 425).

Cheers all, should be a big update next week weds as I’m getting the up gti doner, plans are to swap bits over but to keep her running as is over winter then early next year I’ll be swapping the engine box wiring etc

Inside I’ve insulated pretty much everywhere although will add some more foam under carpet when all interior comes out again, added a rcd 215dab retrofit, front feelart speakers and a pillar tweeters added with gloss black up trims and Octavia mk3 vrs steering wheel and Audi TT front leathers. Rear will have a stern performance rear seat delete with brace and netting it’s on order

Updated the exterior with Monte Carlo 15” alloys which will hopefully clear gti brakes, Black mirrors Monte Carlo grill black superskoda Skoda badges front and rear

Pete's service is highly recommended! Our 2007 Roomster suffered from intermittent windows for approx. 2 years. Dealers could not find the problem. It's not easy to diagnose the faulty Drivers side motor as defective door-looms and switches may show similar symptoms. Problem was, the 'dead' windows would work if both sides are disconnected, left a while and re-connected. Then they work until the ignition is switched off for a period of time. After that, they are 'dead' again. If window-switches and door-looms are confirmed OK (and they are cheap + easy to change) then the drivers side motorcontrol-module almost certainly needs repair. As Pete says, other VW group vehicles from this period, e.g. Polo, Transporter use the same motors and are similarly affected. I sent the suspect motor to Pete who immediately confirmed it was defective, did the repair work and put it on test. Within days I had the repaired motor back in place, both window functions restored immediately (just needing to reset the 'one-touch' function). Congratulations to Pete who persevered to research and resolve this common fault, making a repair economically effective (other option is a replacement motor, around the eyewatering £200, only from Skoda / VAG dealers). The great bonus is that a perfectly good motor unit does not need to be thrown away because of a repairable module fault. Well done Pete. Highly recommended, and a very knowledgeable and valuable member of the Skoda community.

When the camera is on, at the upper right there's a settings button. Set brightness to the max and contrast to the minimum. It will get much much better at low light.

There is a difference between CBBB & CFGB, so make sure you get the right one. Have you thought about INA? The INA kit is around the £120-140 region (from GSF Car Parts) and includes the water pump as a complete package. The INA website shows that it comes with everything you have mentioned, so could be worth a punt, plus you can collect it if you buy from a motorfactors. T

Just for info to all, In my 2019 SE, I have all Philips Ultinon Pro9000 2 Pairs H7 - No Dazzle or bad effects 1 Pair H11 for Fog lights - Yes these particular H11 fit and our circa 35% brighter than H8, with other H11's some "ring" adaption is required with tins snips but these fitted first time. A lot of money, hard to justify for many but awesome results No Canbus errors or any negatives, save up!

Just do it. I bought the connectors on a vw dealership and made an adapter myself. Just followed this guide: Here is a picture of my 2015 RS with them on, really love the darker glass and the led is much nicer.