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I dread to think of the consequences of that bar contacting a human in any other circumstances than them walking into it negligently, all the years of legislation, car design, crash tests etc for nothing, and as for the bolts 🥴 As it will be bolted to the crash beam and knowing how an minor impact to that transferred through the plastic bumper and the polystyrene impact pad behind it will trigger the dashboard, steering wheeel and knee airbags and seatbelt pyrotechnics, an impact so minor that it only left minor scratches on the painted bumper (my own vehicle) its only a matter of time before a concerned individual decides to give it a dose of towball poisoning and that will be the vehicle written off as mine was. I say this as someone who had a front bull bar in 1986 on a 1984 original Shogun, it was on the car when I bought it but I liked it and retained it, I would not fit one now, that vehicle had really thick non yeilding old school solid steel bumpers, it was the last of the dinosaurs, dangerous even in stock form, the bullbar itself was safer than the one pictured with the exposed bolt threads and end flanges.

That crack is filler on the roof and it needs fixing before water gets under it. I agree that the B pillar also looks to be misaligned, the gloss finish on the door pillar is just a sticker. Clearly the car has been bought as spares or repair and then repaired as cheaply as possible, my guess is they didn't bother to motoline the bodyshell or panel beat the roof properly and just slapped a load of pug over it.

I mean mechanophilia, are those rolled up spare tartan trousers I can see there next to the serial killers overnight bag?

Have yet to find an alternator where you cannot replace the actual bit that usually fails. Looking at the manual, it's either a Bosch or Valeo unit. So one of 2 numbers of regulator, both available on Ebay for example. They are clearly marked on the back of the alternator, so a quick look should show either Bosch or Valeo.

Remember you can simply replace the voltage regulator part of the alternator, no need to change the whole unit as often there is nothing wrong with the mechanical part. A far cheaper option.

And that bull bar is just cheap Aluminium to hold the cheap led spots on . It just screws into the number plate holes .

They are 215 70 16 maxxis all terrain and 20mm rubber spacers on top of front struts and same on rear springs . Original suspension . 20mm hubcentric spacers on wheels . Psb bushes all round and remapped from 110hp to 180hp they say .who knows but it’s so quick now . Would defo recommend. The off road capability has greatly improved … I used to have a Nissan patrol and I’d say the yeti would now do pretty much anything that would do 😜

I blew out the driveshaft and drivers wheel bearing on my sdi not long after I got it, and put used ones on. Its lasted for a long time but I think it'll need replaced before It goes back on the road proper. If a used parts in good enough shape then theres no reason not to buy it. Atleast it keeps the car on the road for a bit more and allows you to save up for if it goes again.

Thanks you both for the reply, that was the conclusion I had come to but just wanted to make sure I had checked everything before proceeding.

The wiring connections photographed whilst very hard to see after all the corrosion are not shoddy workmanship and are typical of most modern manufacturers, they are insulated but the looms nowadays are not fully insulation wrapped in favour of the lighter spiral fabric wrap which allows smaller condutors (causing brittleness problems), burning will not propogate and overheating can be easily seen. The problem is a consequence of water ingress that has not been addressed.

I think of the four driveshafts on my Polo and her Fabia, 3 are 2nd hand, with no subsequent problems.

Thank you mate I didn’t think of that ! It’s only to hold the cheap spotlights on . I will be moving that ASAP cheers

You gonna put ya junk in her trunk...

I understand the delays to new car production and challenges facing the sector - what I find really strange is the lack of any narrative or analysis by the motoring journals - AutoExpress and WhatCar. You'd never know there was a major manufacturing problem reading these publications. Just proves they are more about printing glossy adverts for the manufacturers and drumming up future trade.

Christ, that's like fitting secondhand brake pads!

Very nicely done. In contrast to the white, got mine sorted too.

I'm fairly sure that door has been replaced, making me think there's a replacement in there. Reasoning includes (from your photo) missing roof edge seal, different finish window frame, I think the window sill on that door looks slightly out of line... Try looking along the body from a fine angle for ANY repeat ANY signs of a panel misalignment (up/down or in or out at either end) and/or any difference at all in the alignment of the metallic particles in the paint. This is your job because you have physical access to your car,

Mudflaps: the Marmite of car accessories.

Yeah mine is same just under passenger side.

Hi Folks! I need to update you. Haven't got the bluetooth dongle yet, will do eventually (just need to have one in general) but for now, I've used an EGR cleaner, ran the car enough to make sure the DPF is clean, replaced air filters, cleaned MAF sensor, changed oil filter, and new 5w-30 fully synthetic oil, ran an engine flush additive upon changing oil, and there is a difference made to the problem I was having. Remember I mentioned a Citroen C3 1.4 petrol I had a long time ago, which would go sluggish off a traffic light or uphill once warm? Which was sorted by an oil change? And that I suspect it may be something like that playing a role? Well, it has been something like that playing a role. I haven't had a dead-emergence since flushing engine and changing oil, only notice momentary sluggishness trying to pick up after rpms drop 2 or 3 times, which may have more to do with the weird gear ratios combined with the weak engine than with anything else. It does seem to die down, but the engine still feels like it's breathing a bit - struggling to load rather than not responding, so quite a different feel. All in all I'm happy with this difference and can accept that the car now must be performing the way it is expected to for what it is. MPG still seemed low but that may be due to the particular journey that I have to take upon commute, as it include a LOT of stopping and creeping in the rush hour, and it's a short journey. So average is 30-40MPG on screen (before service: 45mpg real measurement at the pump after 100 miles, then 45mpg again after another 100 miles.) Today on a bit longer journey it yielded high 50's on screen, and with some Motorway miles it crept up to 60-62mpg. Any tiny uphill, or junction, and the screen loses 2-5mpg straight away. Average total mpg still around 45mpg. I'll do a real life measurement soon, but this seems to be about what I should expect from now on. I still need to change the diesel filter as I already have the part in the boot, but need to know first if this car has a self-priming pump or if I need to prime the filter when I install it. And this would conclude the full serivce. After that, the plan is to observe O2 sensor, run an injector cleaner, then some cleaning additives and prime diesel every once in a while. Also considering an oil catch can, is it worthwhile on this car? Any other suggestions re: engine/fuel/injection/oil/turbo system health before I finish this topic and move on to the next problem I found (relating probably to the old accident it's had) in a new thread?

Final update from me ... local Skoda specialist couldn't book me in until Jan 7th at the earliest, so I was recommended another local, independent VAG specialists around 10 miles away from me. I sent him a text, testing the water so to speak, and he replied with a few suggestions (driving in a straight line for 100 yards, turning the steering wheel on full lock either way and holding it) to see if that would clear the dashboard lights ... which it didn't (think we already knew it wouldn't) .. To my surprise he then offered to call around that night at my home address to check with his scanner. He turned up on time, plugged in his SnapOn scanner and said (as was advised by @nta16and others) that the rear left ABS sensor was not communicating. He then offered to collect my car, and drive it (in limp mode) to his workshop 10 miles away a few days later. Fast forward a few days, and the car was collected as promised. Followed by an update within 90 minutes advising that the ABS Sensor need replacing, along with the wheel bearing (as the magnetic pickup ring ?) was also damaged. He also recommended the rear pads were replaced as they were down to 1mm. I told him to go ahead and do the work, which he did the same day. Car was returned to me that same evening with all light extinguished, limp mode gone (hooray) and a detailed invoice of parts used ... all of which were charged to me at what I would call very reasonable prices (£26 for the ABS Sensor, £20 for the rear pads, and £69 for the wheel bearing) plus 2 hours labour @ £45 per hour. The parts were equal to what I would pay with discount at Euro Car Parts, so I was more than happy. Car now drives like a dream too He also made me aware of a fault code that was present on his SnapOn reader (but interestingly not present on either Carista or the XTool) that he said Skoda/VW were aware of but couldn't provide an explanation for, so not to worry about it. He offered to send me the tech bulletin if I was concerned, but I'm not. Talking to my new found workshop mate, he was a master mechanic for a couple of local Dealerships, but then decided to go it alone a couple of years ago, and is now building up a healthy business based on recommendations alone. I know where his workshop / garage is ... and will be taking my Yeti there again if needed. Oh, and he was also full of praise for the 2ltr Diesel Yeti (110bhp) model saying the only things that really ever go wrong with them are ABS sensors and Squib rings. Fingers crossed he's right Thanks for all the comments and advise lately folks ... really appreciate it !

im gonna throw it out there and say exactly the same way it was fitted to my RS1600i rep....... via a metal bumper

Have you got the exact wording from the certificate? Could the corroded rear discs have been a separate advisory / failure? They're a common issue on the Kodiaq. Contaminated brake fluid might be visible from the reservoir, there are also tests that can be done via the reservoir to check the condition of the brake fluid. Contaminated brake fluid might affect the performance of the braking system including a brake caliper which could then adversely affect the condition of the disc, hence needing to know if they're directly attributing the condition of the brake fluid to the corrosion on the disc?

Incorrect advice, a worn CV joint is only revealed when the driveshafts are turning and on full lock. I agree but we dont know someones financial situation and the cost & availability of parts in the unspecified country. In my first 12 years of motoring the breakers yards were my first port of call for everything, main dealer prices were silly, just getting served at a motor factors was a challenge in itself, a CV joint was absolutely beyond my means it would be a second hand one & if the vehicle had newish brake pads they would replace my scabby old ones. Things got better, much better but fast forward to 2010 & I was in France in severe financial hardship living on €348 per month (I have the ledger on the coffee table as a reminder) the availability & cost of parts was worse than the UK was in the 70's, I hung out again at the same breakers yard pulling apart an ex Police Octavia for the front struts, springs, track rod with inner joint (I had hit a kerb), I only needed the latter the suspension was an upgrade just as I used to. The big difference was myself and a few immigrants were the only ones there picking over the wrecks I was delighted to encounter the 88 year old owner of the yard still driving the front loader moving wrecks around, we remenisced that in the 70's and 80's the yard was full of punters all day long 6 days a week, now they only allow people access on a Saturday and there are a handfull of punters. It's important to remember that in many countries the situation is little different for many people. To the OP, knowing you have had a driveshaft changed that noise sounds to me like the retaining bolt has come loose, possibly a caliper about to fall off, it sounds terminal and should be investigated ASAP.

I think the apt saying at this point is penny wise pound foolish 😟

Previous post is spot on looks like a combination of a really badly fitted door as it's both dropped and out of line could even be a trplacement door off another car hinges need adjudting so door reaches the top of the door opening top frame also needs adjusting you could wind window down and try pushing the frame back into position but better to slacken torx bolts adjust the frame correctly and retighten bots found out myself better not to slacken bolts to much as frame if to loose will spring out and not hold if screws are to loose it's a combination of pushing and see if it stays moved beforetightening bolts right up Water in boot well is possibly the vents as shown had this issue on a mates mk2 estate and it was indeed incorrect fitted seals around the rubber flaps after a rear shunt garage did not know what they were doing and removed them but did not fit them back correctly hence water leaking in the boot, the only other water issue was a damaged seal gasket under the light fitting (well actually no gasket)

Absolutely loving it thanks

Bought one of those rubber boot mat thingies. Link is here for you Mk1 hatchback owners who fancy this.

Checked with my OBD11, and found the 'camshaft adjustment, intake bank 1, specified value' and '... actual value' did not match. At idle was asking for 10° but bouncing around 40°. Took both the cam angle sensors off to check part numbers etc, and found the rear one (which must be inlet) had oil filling the electrical connector. I don't think that would be beneficial to the operation! I cleaned the oil out, and sure enough, no more issues, but I've ordered a new one anyway, as the seal is allowing oil into the connector - £42 from dealers. Part number is 06L 109 259A for anyone else. The sensors are located at the top left of the engine as you look at it, just below the oil fill and dipstick. 3 x T30 screws holding each in.

Just for the record, last week I've got information that my octavia is finally finished and on it's way to the dealership. I've ordered it ... Fabruary 26

I had the same problem over the weekend, but it seems to be working okay this morning. It may have been down for an update, or just ' technical reasons 🤔 '.

That is not actually correct for a 12v system, for sure any water in an electronic module will stop it functioning and more often than not kill it either through reverse biasing a semi-conductor or corrosion, the water alone will not cause a short circuit blowing a fuse. The survival advice advice for anyone in a vehicle that has ended up in a canal lake etc and sunk is not so valid with modern electronics (explained later) but was to turn on the headlamps and interior lights so you can see and be seen, they will (back then) work normally and leave the ignition on, after letting the interior floor equalising the pressure open the door to exit, if it is obstructed (vehicle upside down etc) then open the window, electric windows will (back then) still function. Of course now with electronic door control modules, body control modules, lighting modules its unlikely that any of these things would respond to switch commands. When I have recommissioned vehicles after flooding it has been rare to encounter blown fuses from short circuits. Salt water is another story especially with battery operated torches etc, that creates instant electrolysis.

I think tape over crimped wiring may be the standard factory approach to connecting the rear ABS wiring into the main loom. It's wrongly assumed to be a dry area. I'll see if I can find some photos of a Mk1 where this point was discovered to be the source of an ABS fault.

I found these kids sponge brushes invaluable when I cleaned the projector lenses on my old mk2 Octavia. As the headlights are so easy to remove, it was quite easy to do on the dining table. Popped the bulbs out, sprayed in some glass cleaner down the hole and then used one of these to clean the lenses. I then wrapped a piece of kitchen roll around the end to ensure they were fully clean.

My dealer just contacted me that the additional note appeared on the unfinished order suggesting completion in week 51 (current one). With the factory closure, it's quite mind-boggling. Let's see how it goes.

Indeed, that's the immo icon.

My comfort had the one on the passengers side and nothing not even a blank under the drivers, weird.

Or do the cheapest option… Pop the bonnet first, park up in the garage, disconnect the battery and place the bonnet down without locking it. The battery will hold charge for several months, no problem. It’s better to do this with a fully charged battery but if you run the car until stop start kicks in, that’ll be good enough. Cold weather slows the battery self discharge rate so a double bonus for this time of year. A fully charged top condition battery will last approx 6 to 8 weeks connected before it’s discharged enough for a non start event. Any other battery with dubious history or low mileage will be less, by how much… about the same as a piece of string…

I second all that the others have said, they cannot see inside the brake lines to know there is corrosion and any corrosion on the discs is unrelated. My advice is to forget what they said, they can just deny it, say you misunderstood etc, the only important thing is what is written on the MOT failure certificate? Armed with that information we can decide what is the best course of action regarding recourse against Halfrauds, in the meantime have the cap replaced and the fluid tested for moisture content, any garage will have a tester, I bet its perfect! A missing reservoir cap is legitimate grounds for an MOT test failure.

Looks tasty

Hi, About to install a sub into the spare wheel space but noticed there was water in there from when it rained a few days ago so I had to fix it. Here is a video link of me taking off the air flaps under the rear bumper to seal them if anyone is interested it may help 🤷🏿‍♂️ as I know a of people have this problem on their Fabia. Thanks

I could be completely wrong here. But I think you need to replace the whole unit Rather than a single bulb .other than a main dealer try a breakers / super skoda /Ebay

Thanks to Phutters and silver1011 for your replies. I’ve measured dimension B on my car and it is 82mm, so we will be fine. Unfortunately I had a stressful afternoon and a sleepless night based on what the dealer had said but never mind.

Does anyone else still on the forum miss the good old days when we had now't to argue about other than whether 16" or 17" wheels were better on a Yeti? (Of course really it was never in doubt that 16" wheels was the superior choice). Light touch paper and retire to a safe distance.......

Virtually the same here, ordered 6 weeks later in end July. Arrived at dealer last week and collecting 3 January. Such a random fulfilment process.

Good evening and welcome to Briskoda! Hope you're enjoying your Fabia.

low 20's around town, maybe a bit more if it gets time to warm up. Mid 30's on any kind of run, maybe 40 if I am gentle. Towing a 6'9" to the roofline 5' wide flat front box trailer knocks 6-9mpg off dependant on speed. Remember Skoda like you to use Super Unleaded in a 280 so factor that in to your pounds/mile calcs. With prices like they are, and a 66 litre tank, I managed my first ever £100 fill up the other day. But if you are buying a 280 for economy, you probably shouldn't.

Thank you Sepulchrave. I was wondering why they had gotten such a bad reputation on here as I couldn't remember for the life of me, getting quite dittery so I am! I bought them unknowingly but they were a welcome upgrade over what I'm assuming looked like OEM discs (wasn't much left) and replacement pads. I'll probably buy different next time as I still find the braking performance a bit lacklustre but still an improvement nevertheless. I've not knowingly suffered any brake fade, but I'm not a yobbo, nor do I push all 64ish raging three-legged ponies particularly hard at any given time.

Be thankful you aren't in an Octavia or ID3 with the same issues and no physical A/C controls. How I get around the other driver issue is by using the seat memory. I'm 1, my partner is 2. At least if the profiles stick, you can always get the seats and mirrors to the right location