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I do a lot of driving on gravel tracks, quiet a bit at night time. The "Mk 1" Yeti has superb lighting as standard. I find full beam and fogs give 180* lighting immediately in front of the car (to avoid hidden ditches, rocks etc) and a good long range view of the track ahead. Why do you think you need an "upgrade"? I know many think leds are trendy and more efficient, but sometime more is less. As an example, led number plate lights glare so much you can't really see the script on the plate - the (old fashioned yellow) filament bulbs give a sympathetic light which makes them easier to read. DRLs on some cars now are almost offensive in their brightness and dazzle factor, they are for daylight use initially in Nordic countries - but the EU said ----- Having said all that, leds are really useful for interior lights, brake/indicator lighting for example. Dazzle from moving/self levelling led headlights is a problem not only for older drivers. It should be a balance between night time road illumination, other road users, and the acceptance that perhaps you can't drive as fast at night as you can in daylight on urban roads. The number of cars with one light in motorway lane three at stratospheric speeds is frightening.

The mechanic may not have put enough oil in it, you REALLY need to check.

Lacking in details to review:- 1/ How long have you had the car. 2/ Has it actually no gears or is this just a message on a display. 3/ If no actual gears, was it sudden total failure or has an issue been developing. 4/ If no actual gears, did this occur while driving or after a start from cold. 5/ How many miles has the car done. 6/ How does the gearbox oil smell - compare to another similar auto car. 7/ Has any maintenance been done on the box - oil change, oil required to be added. 8/ If you changed the oil. what type of oil did you use. 9/ Is the gear linkage still connected to the gearbox. 10/ Any strange noises if in drive and you raise the revs. 11/ You say gearbox jamming - this suggests re-occuring issue - what is actual issue - no drive, intermittent drive, driving then gearbox locking up. 12/ Is this forward and reverse. Others may add pertinent questions that may allow a better analysis,

Good call mate. I'm going to quote ZF Transmissions here, that you should change ATF at 40_000 miles (64_000 km). This is not what most car auto box fitters say.

I'd check the level if I were you, low level will lock the gearbox out.

I had to Google Canton as people refer to it all the time. What a strange name for a sound system. I think of a Chinese restaurant when it's mentioned 🤣

To all my Superb mates ! May Crimbo fulfil all your dreams and may our 272 brethren awake on Christmas morning with a nice pair of flaps ! ( I hear the big man is handy with a spanner )

To be fair I never did the strobe light thing. I did put blue and red lights in a volvo grill and cover the sides with yellow squares for a road trip once. The problem is when your missus is now a copper, you need to be a bit more straight laced.

Exterior window trim time. The original ones had started to bubble and were annoying me ! So full new set ordered and fitted. For anyone that also has this problem the part numbers are. 6Y0 837 477A 6Y0 837 478A 6Y6 839 477A 6Y6 839 478A

Thanks all guys, seems gunmetal one is more popular. Since I still want to have some lightweight wheels, I might just order a set of Koya in gunmetal.

On the right side of the car. The wheel shown on the right bottom coner of the pic is the right front wheel of the car. You don't have to remove the cover completely, just remove the screw on the outside of the cover, then you should have enough room to do the job.

Well it arrived this morning, and has had its first wash (dont judge, it was dirty 🤣 ). Some changes it seems. It now has virtual pedal, which is interesting when washing the lower rear bumper and the boot opens in your face. The remote child lock button is not there (not desperate). Annoyingly it didnt come with a Type 2, 3 pin charger, just the type 2 - type 2 cable. This is a pain in the arse, as my wall box isnt being installed until February. Will get some more pictures at some point.

First things first I can't thank you enough for all of your interest and information I bought this car when it was 227000 So I don't know anything thing about it's past The mechanic took the old oil The battery is charged well I'll do the reset now And then I'll tell you what happened Thank you alot

This could take a while to find......... The panel gap is most likely a result from a rear end bump / collison / crash, it would never come of the production line like that. Unless the tailgate is that poorly fitted / loose as a result of an impact / damage then I doubt the alignment would make the noise. I know you said your on your own, but surely a friend or neigbour could drive for you whilst you float around in the rear seats / boot to listen / try identify where it is.

Inspect it yourself, Instructions and photos in this post on the second page:- Thanks. AG Falco

Hi thanks a lot. 😁

1) I am Greek (100% Native) with no traveling aboard experiences and i learn english by myself with a Course book and a dictionary. If someone Non Greek can manage to login and participate to a Greek Skoda forum (i can provide him the 2 links) writing in Greek language (in the same way of learning) better than i do english here, then i publicly commit to accept my loss and delete my account in this forum. 2) Yes that's what i meant, you're da Man! 😎

PM

Given the distance on the A75, that says it all!!

I'd say you better spend more and get tyres with a decent rim protector, something like Goodyear eagle f1 asymmetric 5, those have meaty protection. And then you don't need to play around with plastic.

Yes - using my own (not Skoda) single phase 32A Type 2 lead.

What's the gearbox fluid like?

Tell us which transmission you have.

I think my next upgrade will be Koni shocks. I can't be bothered messing about with suspension geometry or ride height. I found my swaybar for £160 2nd hand but unused condition on eBay

Thanks! I'll head out to Ingram Skoda in the new year. Right cheers. I'll need to be watchful of that then, maybe I'll get someone a bit less brutish to do it.

I got them from my main Dealer. £57 for all four including the VAT

Photos: A cold morning helped me look to see if there is any moisture leaking through the door seals. All looked good except this corner, in front of the offending door: Here you can see hinge has some signs of sliding, in the direction which means the door is pushed further in. This is the top hinge. The bottom hinge has no mark that I could see, but while the top of the door (window) is pushed in, the bottom of the door sticks out a bit. I thought I took a photo of how it looks now, but clearly I havne't. So might come back with a photo.

Okay so a bit of a catch up. May upload photos but here's a run down. The near side rear door is off. The other three are true. In the pictures it shows you how it seems to be pushed further in. The hinges bolts on that door are clearly tampered with, and there seems to be a bit of a "slide" marks in positioning at the hinge. The roof seal of the rear door looks much shorter only becasue it's pressed in. The seal is squeezed under the roof. I've loosened the bolts and tried positioning it better, and retightened. It is slightly imporved but still not perfect. I don't know if there is an art to getting this right. I can get the top to align, but the bottom sticks out. If I open the door, I can move it in an out on the hinge further, but when closed, which is the position I need to tighten the bolts, it's about fitted as much as I can push it in near the bottom, or out near the top. I have no one who trusts me enough to go into the trunk of a car. haha. But anyway, I might do what the video in the other post did and undo the rear bumper and check those channels. Silicone sealant, then? In other news, I've replaced the fan blower resistor so I can have the fan blowing on 1, 2 and 3 (healps clear the windshield without the noise of 4), and lo and behold, Start/Stop suddenly works?!!! I'm guessing something to do with the system resetting due to having the battery disconnected, possibly. But the light bulb dash light is still there.

Eibach springs and a rear swaybar r far from expensive!!!! U want to spend 10-20 times the amount, u can go the full hog n buy all new aftermarket shocks + springs.

The Toyota C-HR is one that bothers me due to it's tiny indicators as I mentioned further up in the thread, it does prove that it's not just an EV specific issue however and that it's becoming a bizarre design "fad". What happened to actually being able to see signal lights from a reasonable distance and not from 3 inches from the rear bumper? It's so strange. My wee brother gets two options for going to school, he can either get in the car or walk. If he doesn't like it then he can just suck it up.

I don't think Pilkingtons actually fit the windscreen. They're just manufacturers of glass.

Tend to avoid the ones up here as well if I can help it, Ken.

Most Skoda dealerships have 3-phase 22kW PodPoint chargers which will, when using the Skoda supplied (3-phase) cable, charge at 7.2 kW/h. The problem arises when using a wall box at home connected to a 240V single phase A.C. supply. The problem definitely lies with the car. Mine has been back for a number of software updates, including one specifically for the charging control system. The issue I had was that the MySkoda app and Move & Fun app were both trying to control the MAX charge rate in an incompatible manner. I have created a video below which demonstrates the problem. The solution in my case was to use only the Move & Fun app for controlling the charging rate, and I can now get the car to charge at 7 kW/h when using the charging plans (which Move & Fun confusingly terms 'Locations').

The OE tail-light wiring is dreadfull, really shonky, until the later photograph which I enlarged I thought you had done a bodge job with the trailer wiring. Their wiring is thin and brittle as it is without having long unwrapped unsupported lengths of it like that; the green conductor already looks like it is fracturing.

Was you parked with the car or exhaust tail pipe near a wall or building as the exhaust sounded a little as if there could be a minor blow or it may be that is just the normal sound and the recording and playback may it sound different, or it is just me and my ears. For checking out for this thread fair enough but about 5-10 seconds after starting to check all is normal you want to drive off as you are wasting fuel and not getting the systems running to where they normally operate, you want the warm up and driving to be brisk to get to full operating temperature as soon as possible with reasoned use, not going like a bat of of hell but also not dawdling and labouring the car.

Yes and perhaps if you can get a proper Japanese made sensor it'd be better and last longer, do not believe all German engineering is good, it is often very much overrated.

It could be ex-rental. Not especially unusual for them to be moved on after 12 months. The logbook should reveal if this is the case.

Well, batteries being cheap, perhaps I will start replacing them annually, like we do with the house smoke alarms.

Hi All, So in the end it was £240 for rear discs and pads. Sadly, the handbrake caliper and cables all needed replacement as well, so the total cost was £402. Plus side is a year's MOT and vastly improved brakes and handbrake.

Got round to doing this job today. What a FTFTBBW (far too fiddly to be bothered with!) I used pipe cleaners and IPA. I found that the front of the lens was as bad as the back. Had to get a bendy pipe cleaner and wound a few together to get the length and rigidity (f’nar) to get through a tiny gap in the side to access the front of the lens. A bit like keyhole surgery wearing boxing gloves. Made a huge difference. Can’t wait for a test drive to see what it’s like.

I can't believe you aren't considering 'sassy pink' 🙂

I would imagine a heated screen would be considerably more expensive than a standard screen, adding the fact there won’t be any loom or connectors just waiting. You would need the complete wiring loom, heated screen button, which might need a whole new unit with the appropriate button installed and also might need coded as well. All assuming insurance would agree to fitting a heated screen instead of what’s fitted.

Thanks, that's awesome that you're willing to make/publish these videos! Helpful for a lot of people I think.

Washed Gandalf after a few months. Now that it's all shiny, time to get the bikes on and get it dirty again!! 🤣 🤣

Yes it made quite a difference. Also make sure to clean the reflector, as I found that was also covered in a layer of dirt.

I have also found that Bulb Warning can come on just before the bulbs blow Might be a wise time to change all bulbs just to make sure They cost buttons

VID-20211210-WA0004.mp4

My 2019 skoda superb L&k 37000km Velvet red

Hi Guys Here's mine, fresh out of the box, demo+1, 6mths, 6k. Haven't even had time for a photo shoot, so an original dealer photo and one of mine in the Showroom Looking forward to putting some winter tyres on it and getting some miles under it. Looks sharp in White, however, I don't think there is a bad colour in the range

I'm not sure, but I suggest you take a can of bull$h!t repellent the next time you visit the dealership, and spray liberally as soon as anyone mentions "$component N% worn".