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I think the Duck had spotted himself in the water?

The main issues with the M12 bolts in the console is not the bolts themselves, the threads can suffers from some sort of corrosion (galvanic corrosion) between the alloy console and the steel bolt, meaning that quite often the bolt brings the console threads out with them, rendering the consoles pretty much scrap. New bolts from VAG come with a coating on the threads, not infact any type of threadlock, but an anti corrosion substance to stop it happening, hence VAG saying the bolts are one use types.

Gave to old girl a birthday clean this weekend. 20 years old and still slaying the Mustangs.

A couple more from this evening

In that case look for a 1.9tdi with the 130bhp ASZ engine, you'll get performance when you want it and economy when your just pottering around town

Most cabbies used the poverty spec diesels not a VRs

1. Once you commit to delivery you will find it much harder to back out, especially if they already have your money. 2. Do the AA/RAC/etc. still offer inspection services? Later: yes, they do. https://www.theaa.com/vehicle-inspection/

This is interesting reading. The mileage ramped up in later years14-20K a year https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/

well, its definitely a mk1. honestly, noone can say its a good car without physically looking at all the oily bits - should they be oily? should they not be.... being an uneconomical repair write off, it could mean anything or nothing - its old, so a smooshed bumper could be enough for insurance to say good bye to it. in general if its been minded reasonably well and hasnt been overly abused or tinkered with by anyone who thinks they know more about what theyre doing than reality, it should be alright. it could be the photo angle but image 4 of the rear it looks like its sitting down on the driver's side rear? might need a suspension refresh if it is - thats trickier on the estate vrs as getting proper rated springs and dampers is getting harder, with a lot of misadvertised (through ignorance not malice) kits on the like of ebay etc. sellers listing them for estate vrs but they're actually for a mk4 golf gti and the rears wont sit properly other than the above - look for evidence of leaks everywhere. go through the service history if available and look for any big or odd parts being put on

In case you haven't checked the car details on DVLA here's what they hold for it: Vehicle Details Vehicle make SKODA Date of first registration September 2005 Year of manufacture 2005 Cylinder capacity 1781 cc CO₂ emissions 192 g/km Fuel type PETROL Euro status Not available Real Driving Emissions (RDE) Not available Export marker No Vehicle status Untaxed Vehicle colour SILVER Vehicle type approval M1 Wheelplan 2 AXLE RIGID BODY Revenue weight Not available Date of last V5C (logbook) issued 20 August 2020

There was some overlap. It's a late model Mk1 (the one in the link?), also the possibility of a late registration. A bit like there's a Mk1 Fabias with 57 and 08 registrations.

It was an economic insurance write off so first thing I'd ask is "what damage was involved and what repairs were made".

Buckled wheel won't be doing any favours, if they're not bad put them both on the back and provided the current rear wheels aren't in the same state putting them to the front should tell you if the noise was the (previous front) wheels/tyres. When moving the wheels around take a good look at the whole of the wheel inside and out and the tyre tread all round the tyre and the inside and outside tyre walls, do this for all four wheels and tyres. Check all the tyre pressures too. If they're two, three or four different makes or models of tyres and ages that can sometimes add fun too, especially if there's an odd size of wheel or tyre in there too, so you could also check the numbers on all the wheels match. If you put up some side on shots of the wheels (not in portrait please) and tyres of anything you're not sure about it might help.

when your finished your house arrest you'll have to post some piccies of the new beast

I'll just stick with the wheel bearing then and see where that takes me. Thanks for all your help I'll be sure to post an update once it's been into the garage

I doubt it.

Yeah that's what I thought would perhaps be the reason why. The car is 17yrs old now too and on 178k on the original front shock absorbers too. They don't seem to bounce more than once with a bounce test but again as with the bearings, it must be bouncing when driving at speed and with the cornering. They don't seem excessively worn but given the mileage and age of them I'm wondering would they play a part in bouncing the wheel like a basketball without me noticing do you think? Thanks again to you both for the help

Wheel bearing?

There are about 500 similar threads if you do a search.

Worse than the past three decades… I was spoilt by growing up around Citroen, discs were a thing for them before disks were an idea for many uk manfs. The vow van we had was drums and they never stuck, didn’t always slow down that much when a tonne up… I’ll take it for a test, can’t say fairer than that. I think it fits on the drive. Maybe a Little bit sticking out, for pushchairs to prang.

Well played that man: Spare Wheel Attachment Screw Škoda 5G0803899 (skoda-parts.com)

It clips into the top of the plastic spare wheel retaining screw to stop it unscrewing itself.

…and drum brakes on the rear. Had no end of hassle with them on the Citigo, think John Cleese and a tree branch for one such occasion in a glen in Scotland. next…

Meanwhile, I test drove Tesla 3 and Y at their showroom near Heathrow. Asked a couple questions relating to LFP battery, German built cars and 7 seater Y. This was in between the guy talking to other customers standing near the car, not a recording device in sight. A few days later I got a missed call and then an Email asking what I'm considering for next step and recalls that I would like a German built LFP battery 7 seater Model Y. Amazing how a not-commission-driven passionate sales team can do.

The legal requirement for a speedo is that it must not underread and can overread by up to 10%. Practically this means that manufacturers setup their speedos to overread by around 5%, to allow for variations in tyre sizes and reduction in diameter as tyres wear. This overread translates to an overread in distance also.

Whoops! Typo, that's 12 (twelve) new chargers there. Pretty big scale. Gridserve are also working on a hub at Cornwall Services, hopefully ready for summer.

I hope they have plans to scale that ASAP. There are not many cars that can use the 350, but we have one on order now. However come the holidays, the things will be blocked solid with all the traffic coming down the M5 that has gone past Somerset and wants to do a last charge before it enters deepest devon/cornwall.

Good to see progress again. The seats can be tiresome to clean but they are SO worth it when they are mint, plus soon hardly any vRS's will have original seats in them. I second the post above about the covers disintegrating in the wash, the outer cloth rests on a thin layer of foam called scrim foam, then another thin cloth underneath sandwiching the scrim foam, the foam is what breaks down with age, sunlight etc, and can be seen when wet vaccing the seats, as the action of being wet and then vaccumed strongly can break the foam up into tiny particles, you'll see what looks like tiny dark dots in the weave of the top cloth.

Long term vRS serial owner here, yes I have a Sprint Yellow garage ornament and for many years, along side the show pony, I also ran a Black Magic 2005 vRS. The Black one was bought as a "theoretical" breaker, as it had a number of tasty bits i needed for the Yellow project, but I ended up keeping it and took it from 100k to just shy of 200k in 3.5 years. Hand on heart, at 185k it drove every bit as well as it did at 100k, probably because it had been maintained on the button and if it needed replacement parts they were always fitted. Like any car, you can come across a 60k mile minter that is in all reality on the cusp of needing lots of remedial work due to age etc, so buy with your head not your heart and I wouldn't discount something with over 100k if it's got good provable history and drives well. Even my Black one had no body corrosion, no scabs on the sills, no rusty arches and it stood up well when cleaned / polished. A good moto to remember is "crap cars attract crap owners" so anything that's been all over the social media doing burnouts, smoking like a chimney bouncing of the limiter is probably going to give you a fiscal fingering so do some digging on the reg number etc. I agree with your sentiments on Yellow, it's a marmite colour, so get one you love, there are still some lovely examples out there.

Just cancelled my order and gone for a complete change of direction. Good luck to those who have orders in, I hope the situation gets better for you soon. Seems to be a perfect storm in the industry at present and stock motors are like finding hens teeth. Had a long discussion with my wife over the weekend about not having a clue when it would even potentially be built. We've got a large service to pay in August on the Astra and her car will need serviced and taxed in the next couple of months. So we've bitten the bullet and bought an 4 month old ex demo Lexus ES300h F Sport. Not a missile like the VRS would have been but should be frugal in town where it will spend most its life. Absolutely gutted to not have one last fast motor but, it is what it is.

Invaluable for those that sit in cars or have animals in cars, especially when raining or snowing. Worth their weight in gold for those with EV,s or plug in hybrids that might spend time sitting in their car charging.

Usually you would get Heko ones and all would be well. Now the postage / delivery to the UK can be 3 or 4 times more than a pair of deflectors.

FYI one direct way of differentiating between a facelifted mk1 and a pre-FL mk2 is to look at the sidelamp/headlamp area. On a FL mk1 the sidelamp and headlamp are separate units and on a pre-FL mk2 they are combined into one headlamp unit. I missed that when checking on my phone so again my apologies.

It is a mk1 and they were made until model year 2004 although many have turned up with later registrations, My identifying it as a mk2 was incorrect - I looked at it on my phone and got it wrong. When Ryan pointed it out as a mk1 I checked on my PC and he's right, of course.

It had a wash but also fitted mudflaps and did a refurb of my wheels. Can't believe the difference the mudflaps have made to reducing crap up the side of the car. Oh and I replaced the wheel centre cap Skoda thingameejobbies

Yeah sorry, I quoted the wrong post. It was meant for @timster

Cheers, jars. I'll have to try it if Auld Arnie Shark doesn't do it when regassing mine. My Mum gets money off services and stuff, so hoping to chance my luck.

Aircon deodoriser 👍 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303081767194?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=UtC3VvnORl6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=EtYD1QsGRvq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Ok cool. Think I’ll just replace it then. Gives me an excuse to replace the door rivets with a better solution

"aircon bomb"??? Should I be confused or concerned?

Specified values of the sender Voltage on the front sender when the vehicle is stationary without load: 2.3 - 2.8 V. Voltage on the rear sender when the vehicle is stationary without load for front-wheel drive: 1.9 - 2.3 V. You should find these voltages in the measuring blocks for the headlight modules 29/39

There is reason for the drum brakes. First as these are rear wheel drive and therefore rear wheel regen braking, there is no need for powerful rear brakes. Second, as the friction brakes are much less used because of regen, rear disks on EVs suffer from seizing and corrosion. The enclosed drums should negate this. Finally, drum brakes cost less 🤣

https://electriccarsreport.com/2022/04/volkswagen-to-recall-over-110000-phevs-due-to-fire-risk 'Skoda model year 2021.' @GarySN That just means that there might not be the SAFETY CRITICAL RECALL started yet on all or any of the Skoda PHEV's, and then there is Skoda that are slow on IT / websites and their VIn checker for RECALL ACTIONS as they call them. Service Campaigns / Skoda Secret Service Campaigns, need to know basis & no hurry. When a RECALL is called then in the UK it should be here. https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-recall Maybe within days of it being started, but then there can be weeks and nothing. They were slow on the Engine Cover Recall showing, but they got there eventually.

@Athrx Not that it makes any difference now as you need to sort that but did the car ever get Service Campaign '34H5' carried out after it was called in 2017? That was a software update on some DQ200's from 2013-2015. Sometimes shows here if outstanding. http://skoda-auto.com/services/recall-actions

Was lucky I told dealership if they wanted me to buy the car they would have to include a 2 year service plan

I used to use them in broadcast spec (very similar). They were super fast to load and find a track, or a specific part of a track.

The more powerful supercharged/turbo charged version of the 1.4 16v EA111 as fitted to some VAG cars including the petrol vrs Fabia was a disaster area. Known for piston, cam chain, plug failures etc. Despite knowing this reputation I took a chance in 2015 with my turbo only EA111 1.4 Superb as a friend of mine had run a 2011 1.4 Octavia which had been (and still is) really good. The reality is it's now done 100k miles without drama.

A few from testing at Brands Hatch this morning. Trying out a firmware update with vehicle tracking. Witchcraft lol.

I'm sure you get a pop up or other message saying it needs activating and to contact a dealer. If you are getting the smartlink screen without it then you should be good. Incidentally, when it does come up (even when working) it looks like it's greyed out but you can still select. Just be sure to hit the right one. Mirror link is also an option but a pile of p00.

Not exactly hifi, but certainly from yesteryear. My first ever (and still working) Sony radio. Circa 1973-ish: