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Hi all, Just wanted to share a few pics of my month-owned Enyaq 80x that I use for work. Being a farm vet's car, it's fully loaded in the boot with kit and has to navigate a lot of single-track roads and muddy/rocky farm tracks. It's been handling its duties very well and I've been very impressed with its off-road ability (at least equal to my previous Octavia Scout). Overnight charging gives me full range every morning and when on-call (and often driving / attending call all night) an hours break and a snooze at a 50kW charger (the fastest we have in Herefordshire) keeps plenty of range in the battery. I've also been relieved at how my farming clients have responded - the vast majority are fascinated and amazed that an EV can cope with the life of a vet's car!

I’d be more concerned that the car is slightly overpriced! 😉

That's all folks... Here's the replacement bus. I'm putting a few Superb 3T ancillaries in the for sale section, including K&N filter and a centre console armrest cubby tray if any current owners are interested.

Lost a bank passbook and my damn passport a few months back. Ripped the house apart, ripped the car a part or so I thought. I knew that if I found the passbook I’d find my passport, but to no avail. Ended up cancelling my passport as reported lost 3 weeks ago as I need it for a holiday later this year. Found it today inside the dashboard of my Octavia. When closing the glovebox the passport and bank book had tipped out and landed behind the glovebox inside the dashboard. So if you are missing anything, selling or buy an Octavia check behind the glovebox, you never know what you might find. ****ed off is an understantment.

I noticed in your picture that the battery technology is incorrect. It comes from the factory preset as " fleece " for an agm battery and I've read elsewhere that fleece should be the correct setting. I'm not sure what the difference is between fleece and binary-AGM and I don't know if that gives any cause to your issues but I've read in many forums that fleece is the VW term for standard agm batteries in european cars. I would definitely physically check the serial number on the battery itself to see if it matches your picture just in case your old battery was a Varta and the new battery hasn't been programmed properly.

"Short to GND" means no voltage present where voltage expected - most common cause is a blown fuse, next most common is a broken wire or bad connection, least common is faulty component.

You don't have to do that; what people are saying is that you should be rightly suspicious of a vendor who is reluctant to sell a car with a fresh MOT.

That is only to keep the MOT anniversary - A new MOT can be done ANY time, reluctance by the dealer to do this is immediate cause for suspicion.

That's not strictly true as it can be done at anytime! Edit:- Looks like George beat me to it

You can MOT a car anytime you want in the UK. Many are MOT'd pre sale to come with a new MOT. You can test one today and it can fail on a Major item and need to be taken off the road. Your 4th September date is to keep the MOT at the present & might matter to some who want to keep MOT's being yearly. Many are not as they are SORNED, off road being repaired, not MOT'd until 6 months late because of Covid rules that allowed that. I MOT a car before selling one, or when buying one if i want to know what to do to it.

As root suggests up there /\/\ the full dealer history does not mean it has been serviced correctly. Just means you have an accurate record of what has been done up to now. The MOT history looks like someone owned it who isn't a car person and does the bare minimum. If the dsg was not done at 40k it's a sign that it's not been looked after IMO.

It is actually possible to buy the channel from VW. It just pushes onto the bottom of the windscreen to be held in place. However, the mastic bonding the screen to the car prevents me getting the remnants off the back and therefore cannot get a new one on and into place. Simply, all I need is some sort of adhesive to keep the scuttle stuck to the bottom of the windscreen via using the overlap of about 1 cm. Good point about the Tigerseal. Other folks have talked about Windscreen fitting companies using a bonding material that locks everything in place for ever. At the moment I am thinking about a bead of Butyl tape. Very sticky and it should be possible to separate it if I need to access the ecu again.

Successfully replace the battery, thank you guys for advice. Only issue I ran into is one of the nuts fell somewhere into the engine bay, used chopsticks to retrieve.

problem with using tiger seal / tec7 etc is - you will never get the scuttle out again without smashing it. do you have any pics? it might be possible to get some thing made to fill the channel and let you reclip it. (3d printers to the replicate the original is what im thinking)

Me neither. My 2021Karoq did. Half the fun of a new car is taking the manual into the bathroom and reading it ‘til your legs go dead.

Glad not to be the only one that cleans / de- stones etc winter/ summer wheels at change overs.

If you are reading this post do not despair! The horrible burning smell coming from your new diesel car is OK. When you stop and turn the engine off and the fan stays on and the engine seems to be super hot, the car is OK. The above are clear signs of an active DPF regeneration and is normal for your new diesel Skoda car. To comply with the latest emission levels diesels have to capture the large soot particles and burn them up into smaller particles which are kept in the DPF, this process is called regeneration. A lot of regenerations take place during normal driving where the exhaust is hot enough to burn the soot in the DPF and are unnoticed and are known as passive regeneration. When the temperature in the DPF is not hot enough for an passive regeneration, the ECU injects diesel into the DPF which burns up the soot and is known as an active regeneration. When you stop the car part way through an active regeneration, often the car smells like it's burning and the engine fan will stay on to cool the car. Mods could you please edit this thread (if needed) and make it a sticky or just delete, thanks

Afternoon all, opened my tailgate last night and it raised fine as usual. However when it reached full height, it beeped and then when I pressed the button it continued to beep and wouldn't close. Ended up having to manually force it closed. The beep sounded like it was coming from the boot lock area. I searched on the Octy 3 forum as they have had these a bit longer and found that some folk have micro switch issues with the boot lock. Anyone else shed any light on this? Cheers

Hi all, So when I upgraded to a dual camera setup and mounted the rear dash camera to the rear glass in-between the defrost lines, I found that I had lost all DAB reception. Recently I tried to buy some ferrite cores and mounted them on both ends of the USB cable and still had no reception. I'm also aware that there are some dash cameras companies that advertise that they have eliminated DAB interference but they want you to spend £200 or so on their new systems. 🙄 I got to experimenting and removed the mount, left the DAB radio on and then moved the rear dash camera while it was on, all over the rear glass to figure out where it cut off the DAB reception. If you mount anywhere on the glass you were going to cut off the signal. I found a nice spot (or so I thought) just underneath the top brake light right up at the edge of the plastic trim, but the problem was that my specific dash camera has a straight cable going out instead of something like a right/left-angle cable (and it's really not so easy trying to find a 6m left-angle to right-angle mini USB cable), so when I opened the boot door it would brush up and against the cable. If I had shut it without looking I'm pretty sure the cable would've been caught between the boot opening and damage both the cable and camera. Then there was another issue, that area below the top brake light gets really hot under the sun, so if you had a weak adhesive on the mount it'll probably fall off over time but the final problem was running the cable back to the C-pillar. I used the provided clips and mounted the USB cable to the top of the plastic trim and that's when the signal cut out again. I tried to shield the wiring using some layered aluminum foil (which I had planned to wrap around the USB cable if it had worked), unfortunately that didn't work and I'm aware that there are some EMF tape but those are very expensive to buy and experiment with. I've already wasted money getting various ferrite cores. Ultimately it looked like this wasn't going to work with any powered USB cable mounted on the plastic trim or rear glass, it all just seems to interfere with the DAB reception. My working solution was something I had found on a bimmer forum. Using what I had available I made this bracket (from a spare joist hanger bracket, lots of hammering, bending and satin black spray paint). Here it is fitted, off centre as there is a plastic trim clip holding up headliner. And here it is with the dash camera fitted and the cable tucked into the headliner and into the C-pillar. I might take it back out and re-adjust the angle so that it fits into the headliner better (or remake it entirely). The only issues I have is that the rear view is off centre and further back than before. The view is also slightly obstructed by the upper brake light cover and parcel shelf. However I have full DAB reception now with this set up, so I can listen to some tunes other than my own (and traffic announcements). 😁

The ABS would trigger randomly when braking, the ECU thought the back wheels were locking up because they were rotating slower. Yes it was a Mark 1 with Bosch ABS, the same system as other Polo 9N platform cars. It was incredibly annoying because it increased stopping distances needlessly. It stopped when I got rid of the 185/65/14 for 185/60/14 all round.

They ALL have eyelashes, the question is only if they are LIT.

...and I've had ABS issues with 185/60/14 on the fronts and 185/65/14 on the rears. I'm erring on the side of caution with my advice based upon this experience.

Its part of their stock . In the dealership since March from what iv seen and know . its a basic spec car no extras. I wouldn't think anyone in the dealership has any interest in it . I've give them till Tuesday afternoon to sort it or they can keep it been honest not to many people willing to pay nearly 50k for a Octavia 😄

That'll be because your car is 2016 and therefore pre WLTP. Our 2019 Karoq defaults to Normal every time.

You mean health issues like arthritis, heart problems, kidney failure?..

Makes a fresh MoT less of an issue, because he's not obviously trying to hide stuff.

Ahh its 12.5k. Thanks all for the reply, I'll go and have a look at the car this week. Last major service at 61k. Tyres were replaced a few months ago, all brakes were replaced a few months ago. The car is a chain driven engine. Car has two previous owner, current owner bought it from Skoda dealership in Oct 2020. It also has Skoda's extended warranty until 10/2023 that's transferable if I pay the monthly fees. I've asked the owner if he'd be happy to do a AA inspection which he agreed to straight away.

No i mean you can hack the gateway module to stay in E after ignition cycle, its a lot of work though. The underlying logic on this is an odd one but basically after about MY16 they didnt stay in E after ignition cycle.

Yes I did. That is because I think Sportline has better looks out side. The black details in the front and ordinary car colour all the way down at det doors. No black plastic at tet bottom of the doors or bottom rear. This is the first time I go for a better look outside the car, rather than inside. The sportline inside looks rather dull. It is good seats, however, with everything black it is kind of booring. In Norway the Sportline has more options in the bottom price. if I should build an ordinary iV80x up to a Sportline it would be more expencive. If I should do that I would have a black car to hide the black plastic, and then I would go for the Lodge interior. Lodge is wonderful. I dont like leather seats. I had that on my Superb L&K`s. It is cold at wintertime and warm at summertime. I did have one Superb with ventilated seats, it was ok. But not more than ok...

I think you've missed my point; if the vendor is reluctant to get a fresh MoT, then you should presume that there's a testable (but not always visible) fault on the car.

Carpet tape is insanely sticky both sides and cloth reinforced.

Thanks gentlemen ..... sorry for delay ... been away ..... your help much appreciated ... just wish the manual was as clear. XVolvo

You know the advertising boards you get hanging from the ceiling in shops? You'll never guess what we call the hooks that clip/stick onto ceiling.😀

Outside diameter of tyres 195/55R15 595.5mm 195/50R15 576.0mm Therefore, 195/55R15 has an outside diameter 3.4% bigger than 195/50R15. If you put 195/50R15 on the front they will rotate 3.4% faster than the 195/55R15 tyres on the rear. In general, anything over 1.5% difference in the outside diameter of tyres could cause problems with traction control, anti-lock brakes, electronic stability program, etc. 195/50R15 has a standard load index (ie. not XL) of 82 (475kg) 195/55R15 has a standard load index (ie. not XL) of 85 (515kg) This means that by changing the front tyres from 195/55R15 to 195/50R15 you would have to increase your front tyre pressures by about 0.2 bar (3 psi) in order for the tyres to be able to support the same load. Due to the slightly increased tread width of the lower profile 195/50R15 tyres, the lower sidewall height, the stiffer construction of the carcass, the change in front tyre size would result in a harder ride (all other things being equal). 195/50R15 may have more lateral grip than 195/55R15 in certain situations. This could potentially result in an oversteer situation, losing the back end of the car, etc. In the invent of an accident, the insurance assessor may not be happy with this staggered arrangement. It's very easy to spot, as the front tyres will have noticeably less sidewall height.

I hoped the same as you. Ordered in August and thought it would be a nice birthday present last week. Birthday came and went and my car never existed. At least some info would be nice, but noooo, Skoda gives no info.

I am wondering now if this is due to a faulty driver's door module. I'll take off the door card and check the wiring but maybe I'll buy a second hand module and see if that fixes things. Obdeleven can't communicate with it as per above post so if wires are intact this may be the next part to check.

A few from Brands Hatch this morning.

I'm no stranger to cycling but for a lot of years have been mainly Road/Gravel focussed after falling out of love with hike a bike MTB climbs here in the Peak District. My son is almost 15 and I have no chance keeping up with him now on the up-hills & as he is getting into MTB racing (XC and Downhill) I need to be able to keep up with him/challenge him on his training rides. I test rode a 2021 Trek Rail 5 at Dalby Forrest and the geometry was so close to my Trek Top Fuel (but with extra suspension travel) it felt so familiar but so much more capable so I took a trip to my local Trek dealer (only 8miles away) & bought a 2022 Trek Rail 7. Its a great spec & doesn't need any upgrades although in time I may change the Bosch Purion screen for the Kiox (I don't need the mapping but would like a better battery gauge/clock & info on my energy used vs power provided) I've only had it for a week & its fantastic, I forgot how much I actually enjoyed mountain biking & now being able to climb stuff I've never been able to before its giving me a whole new world to explore Matthew

I was using Alpin 5s on steels until last winter, when I changed to a set of 'Dunlop winter' pattern retreads on alloys that I picked up from a Forum member - not great grip - and quite a bit noisier than the Alpins, so I'm going to get the wear out of them over this year, then fit new winters on the rims. Re. swapping, I was moving the Alpins front to rear to even-up the wear - should not be any problem providing pattern is symetrical, wear is reasonably even across tread and rotational direction remains the same.

To add to my comment above, don't always trust a place to have coded it correctly just because they plugged in a gadget and said "yes". There are quite a few reports on here (and elsewhere) of Halfords/Kwik fit type places not doing the coding.

Anyone seen the Netflix documentary “The Root Cause”? That’s very much worth a watch and very insightful to just how getting infections in your mouth (OK, in root canals) in certain places can lead to certain conditions within the body. There were several women who all had an infection in the same tooth and later all diagnosed with breast cancer. Not selling it, I’m sure(!) but shocked the cr@p out of me!

....how time flies. The great white is off to tradeinsville today having served TeamThomas very well. A recent clutch replacement is the only major 'wear and tear' expense I've incurred and its just ticked over 96k miles. 👍🏻 Back on its original alloys and bearing its 2015(15) plate its off to EMG Kia in Cambridge if anyone is seeking a well looked after and reasonably rapid 😉 3T5. Any potential buyers are welcome to ask any questions. I'll be picking up a 2011(61) 9 seat VW Transporter T5.1, and no it's not staying standard for long.....

Sorry but I'm going to disagree a lot of the lower spec cars from most manufacturers have poor seating, lots of cars have very short seat bases and very flat too no support for your thighs.

Sky reflections

2.5kg of metal goodness 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥

Just my humble opinion on the Canton in my Kodiaq. It has a couple of quirks that can be a PITA sometimes but otherwise, in comparison to the standard system it's night and day. I adjust the very simple EQ depending on what I listen to but to get the best of the system you really need to be turning the bass way down and putting the Subwoofer volume on around 6/7. It also makes a huge difference changing the "Focus" not the balance/fader to "Front" instead of "All" and turn all bluetooth/loudness etc to off. This makes the system come alive and being that you won't be listening to music loud with kids in the last row, no one else will be missing out anyway. The connection method makes a difference too. I'm lucky enough to have a separate work and personal mobile phone, one android the other iPhone. Both phones by bluetooth are acceptable but the iPhone quality is marginally better although doesn't go as loud. If you really want it sounding it's best the source needs to be good. The best so far is either Amazon Music HD or Tidal through Android Auto, because then the in car DSP is decoding the sound and not your mobile device. Spotify works ok, but at almost full volume can get a little sharp or harsh at the top of the range. No such issues using Tidal. Just my two pennies. Sounds is a very subjective topic but if I had the option again I would add Canton in a heartbeat (it's the ONLY option I picked other than adaptive cruise). Saves messing with paying silly money to have someone take your car apart to fit a professional system, especially if it's on lease or PCP....

So, almost 5 months into ownership, and I'm still really liking the Superb. Went down the road of lowering, with Eibach Pro-Kit, a few weeks back, and that pushed me to either buy some spacers as a temporary solution, or finally make my mind up on some wheels. Read as much as I could on sizing and offsets, but still needed to take an educated guess/leap of faith. Straying from my Japanese wheel roots, I ended up going with Judd Model One, 20x9.5 et40, in Gloss Gunmetal (would have done Brushed Titanium if they were in stock). Tyres are Michelin PS4S, 255/35r20 in size. Yes, I know that's a little larger than stock OD, but it was a deliberate choice to maintain some sidewall. No rubbing so far, thankfully. Outside pics are with the stock wheels/tyres loaded in the back, hence why it sits a little lower in those pics. Will try and get some better pics sometime over the next week or so.

As an update from this, car went in for service last week and as expected the gas struts are knackered as the sensors can't tell what position the tailgate is in. Having looked online, replacement struts are £700 - £750 a pair plus fitting etc which I really can't justify!! I'm sure I've seen somewhere that you can covert to manual boot struts. Does anyone have details on which ones I can use as all Superb 3 appear to be electric. Can I use Octy 3 manual boot struts and is there anything else that would need to be changed? Thanks in advance