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So Fabia decided to be retired from duties and ended up getting an Octavia 1.9 ALH which sadly lasted 13 days before someone never seen us stopped on the M8 in traffic and took out 4 cars and bent the shell on it, shame as it was a clean car with the BBS wheels on it. Ended up getting an E46 330D wagon but didn't like it so that got changed to a drift car and then got this Octavia Sport with the superior PD140 BKD over the 170. Bits of rush here and there but it's a daily, Bought it with the Touran wheels already on it. Not even had it 2 months and already put 10k on it, only been cleaned once. Took it to Crail this first weekend i had it to see what kinda of performance figures it would do. against a friends Astra GSI he said he would give me a headstart to the 60ft then missed a gear Then the changes started 🙄 Lights coverted over to LED's why can't all companies make the bulbs on these as easy to change as they are on these new style key RCD330 Plus Fascia so it fits better Citigo Monte Carlo Flat bottom steering wheel stickers Some subtle perforance mods as well. Trip to pod with MRC Tuning for Doorslammers back to crail after some changes against a PD150 1756 bora turned it up for this one just to make sure seems to do well as a daily

Your car is looking good in the pic, but check out that blue beauty :^)

I used just regular gloss black vinyl wrap. Air release, and a heat gun. It's very easy to remove afterwards. This is the specific one I got:- https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/224645540428?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=1TXFXzlIRjG&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=lD_jGR-4Tj6&var=523481421659&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I actually think it’s a cracking looking beastie, and the grey really suits it 😎 G

One from work...

May be nothing but mine would jump stations without me touching the head unit. Turned out I was bumping something on the steering wheel.

Your understanding is incorrect. The waterpump has a sliding sleeve.

Hello, this is my first proper post. I have been having the overheating issue since January. One morning as I got up to speed, the maxi dot showed the overheating warning and a long beeep came from the dash. I pulled over, let the engine cool, took it home and booked into a local garage. They diagnosed "auxiliary water pump fault" through a code reader, they changed the part and £140 later I had my car back working perfectly. Fast forward 6 months to the jubilee weekend. I was driving with my kids and as we got to 70 it happened again. I pulled over, let the engine cool, spent the weekend with no car, took it back on the Tuesday. The garage could find no fault codes, got it on a rolling road, took it for a town drive on the route it overheated and they couldn't reproduce the issue. Coolant fine, plenty of oil... The cars checked regularly and dealer serviced every year. Yesterday, a week later it happened again. I was about 15 miles from home, kids in the car again.... Same thing, waited for the needle to drop, went on home, parked on the drive, called the garage again, went down and again no codes they said its not the auxiliary pump and to book it in. This time I researched and found a couple of interesting links. The first is another thread on here talking about the common water pump issue where the engine gets to temp and the pump doesn't kick in. The other is a YouTube video of a guy walking through the fault in tremendous detail. Spoke to the local garage and they said if the pump comes out then the belt needs changing and they would charge upwards of £650. I booked in the car to a main dealer, they quoted under £500 so cheaper than local. (probably going to end up expensive but hopefully they know what they are doing)... Can't get an appointment for 10 days. I thought I could nip to the shops later on today. It was 31c outside and the car had been in full sun all morning. I drove the car for seconds and it was at 90c on the dial after idling to turn right, I had to find somewhere to turn round, by the time I got onto my drive, it was almost at the red marker. I waited a minute and tested idle, the dial went back past 90c after idling for 30 seconds. When I got out of the car I noticed a rattling/clicking noise from one of the fans, and I have never heard the fans as loud as they were, the engine seemed warm but not 130c hot. My uncle thinks the head gasket, thermostat, or coolant leak, but I would have expected fault codes for such issues. So frustrating. Do garages actually troubleshoot anymore or just read codes and change parts?? I'm at a loss, still owe £2k on repayments and don't have a car to cart the family around. Such a nightmare. I'm terrible at searching forums and can't seem to narrow down what else it could be. I'm now not even confident enough to drive it to the dealers so arranging tow. Just wanted to tell my story. When I've had my appointment I will do my best to remember to come back here and post an update.

That's the one! Continuing from earlier (I ran out of space for pictures) I accidentally found myself doing hartside pass, amazing road. Got very foggy near the top which was fun. Did quite a lot of driving over the weekend. And back at the ferry I covered just over 800 miles on this trip, loved every minute of it. Overall a phenomenal trip, and I enjoyed every minute of it. 10/10 would go again. Definitely revealed a load more stuff that needs doing to the car namely: I need more power. Gearing was not great for these roads, second was too low of a gear and third was too high. Also it proved a touch too stiff for these roads. And from other people driving it, I was told the steering wasn't great, same for changing gears. Having sat in and been passenger in their cars, I can totally see what they mean. Intercooler and bigger turbo is next up for this.

I hear what you're saying and sympathise with you but bottom line is this. The dealer say they can't find a fault and in fairness to them, you can repair a fault you can't find. As the dealer has said no to rejection then if you were to take it further, an ombusman or indeed legal team would want proof that the fault exists. For the car to be rejected, you need to proof there's a fault. As linni says, the system may be working OK, perhaps it just needs adjusting. In the above reply you say the window had a fault. In your initial post you say it's faulty. Are you saying that's now fixed? If you want a tip about having the problem(s) resolved with the dealer or even if it goes beyond that is not to do what you've written above and say things like "my first thought is what's not going to work today" - nobody will be intesrested in that. Be as precise as you can - don't list everything that didn't work, just list everything that doesn't work right now. Rejecting a car will cost the dealer big time, swapping cars won't so that's probably why they'll have made the offer. If you have no confidence in your current car any reason you haven't taken them up on this? EDIT - just a thought - have you tried contacting the previous owner? Is there any history of accidents? Rather then contacting your dealer, it may be worth asking Skoda UK about the history / service of the vehicle. Your insurer may be able to say if that reg has been in any accidents. Just thinking, the system may not have been calibrated correctly. ( I hit a deer with my old car it it took me 3mths and Skoda two repair attempts to discover smart cruise control hadn't been calibrated properly ( it needed a factory techy to come up with a solution ).

Yeah that'll be Howe's van then? The red Vanette I mean. Up for sale at the moment.

As above really, if you need the extra sensors on the far left and far right for the parking assist (six sensor holes rather than 4) then it might be easier to source the bumper for the four holed one and get the bodyshop to sort the holes for the other two.... You will need the seperate brackets to be secured on the inside however but the markings on a genuine bumper are there for ease of use.

@Baltazar you have download link on PM. For maps pls visit Skoda Update Portal

Took a trip over to England for a few days. Got the ferry from Belfast to Cairnryan Slight detour up to Girvan Then on to the Pennines, Made it there and the tank was still reading full (somehow) Not long after I got there the gearstick went very slack forwards and backwards. Checked it next morning and What happened was, the bolt on the short shifter backed off, so it was moving around where you're meant to adjust the throw. It was hanging in barely, but one bad bump and it was gone. Lucky the nut had just landed on top of the gearbox. Not a big job, tightened the nut and it's fine. Did quite a lot of driving, went up to cauldron snout which was lovely, and did a fair bit of exploring the roads.

Good for you for calling them out over the £90 If it were me, I'd be tempted to have a look myself, and if spotted, stick big red arrow pointer with 'Leak?' on it. G

That, and it's made worse by the Fabia having a bladder like an old lady.

All check your PMs

You do it from th ewrong menu - it should be service menu (long press menu item).

...and it's not as daft as fake radiators on an EV. Plus, it does look a bit like a cubists' interpretation of a bum

I'm not sure 1.2mA leakage would be a worry? I imagine the alarm and remote door system would draw at least 10 times that? On the basis a typical car battery is 50 A/hour I calculate 1.2mA drain on it would last 41666 hours - or roughly 4 years 9 months! Having said that if your fault has cleared by operating the tailgate repeatedly it does sound like the switch may be faulty, but it would need to be 10s or 100s of mA drain to cause a problem.

it has grown on me....

As ever, very helpful. Many thanks. I'll be ordering some prokit springs then. Suspensions in need of a rebuild as the garage who fitted the shock did a hash job. New bump stops/top mounts all round!

TBH it's an FVCKing nuisance, because you have a warning light and buzzer just to say "screenwash low".

Exactly how you test the "low screenwash" light on my Elegance; let the screenwash drop below 0.5l left in tank.

Run out of screenwash would be the obvious answer... alternatively, check that the bulb isn't blown. This is all fine and well as long as you had this warning light in the first place. Otherwise I don't think it's worthwhile to retrofit it.

I've got a stiffer/thicker rear swaybar, 25.4mm, and it works very well with the lowered springs (Eibach Pro-kit).

Without a separate data subscription, internet data is still available for "critical" functions such as SOS, OTA updates etc. If you are subscribed to the Connect services, you will also get regular navigation database updates.

In 6th at 70mph the engine is at 2350rpm, so a tad over 30mph per 1000rpm

Fuel cutoff happens only when engine rpm is above approx 1400rpm, so when in 4th the engine rpm will be above that threshold and fuel will be cutoff but when in 5th the lower engine rpm will mean that the engine is still being fuelled.

Can i get people's thoughts on this VRS please? Have spoke to the dealer, sounds a good car, history, clean, just had oil and filters done along with DSG service. new discs and pads all round and the wheels are in being refurbed (in black). But, does the car look lowered to anyone else? There doesn't seem to be an awful lot of room in the wheel arch? Ideally i want something standard. Thoughts? https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202205115598921?advert-type=dealer-stock&advertising-location=at_cars&advertising-location=at_profile_cars&fromDealerSearchResults=%2Fretailer%2Fstock%3Fsort%3Dprice-asc%26page%3D1%26dealer%3D10011937%26onesearchad%3DUsed%26onesearchad%3DNearly%20New%26onesearchad%3DNew%26advertising-location%3Dat_cars%26advertising-location%3Dat_profile_cars&dpp=10011937&sort=price-asc&percentVehiclePriceDeposit=true

Looks like a similar issue to my thread. Looking through here there are other posts with reference to someone in the Midlands (with contact details) who can repair these units. Worth a quick search.

Ah, my bad. Apologies if that's a duff steer Gaz

Ah, I thought it was a new car. A 2018 model may not be able to use Skoda Connect. Also the standard for an SE-L then was for it to have Columbus not Amundsen. It is not the same as the current Columbus though.

The incredibly excessive toe-in? 🙄 G

. I wouldn't be too fussed if the Russian mapping updates sent everybody the wrong way on purpose. .

Took my Octy4 on a road trip - here it is atop the Simplon Pass in the Swiss Alps 😄

Thanks for the reply @Sec8200. Strangely, the fault has vanished. I wait in fear for its return. Hopefully a dodgy connection that has reseated itself!

@Pappasmurf Welcome to the forum. Who will you be using Henrys or Arnold Clark or AN Other? Neither will be doing a Hunter Alignment check or able to be coming to much of a conclusion on the tyre wear you have. Hitting potholes is not the only reason that alignment or tracking can be out, they can be that way from the factory, or from speed bumps or climbing kerbs etc. The first 400 miles the car did might just be where the issues comes from. 'Never raced or rallied or driven by the person actually owning the car'. Maybe best having a qualified person doing an Alignment check and adjustment. That is someone with all the gear and more than ideas.

All i was trying to show is even when someone boughts a brand-new radiator fan can face a serious problem (as i did) Even a mechanic which was present in the parts sore insisted ''it's plug and play'' when i was explaining to the employee what happened to the previous one, i look at him in the eyes and i said ''don't be so sure''.

This may be of some use to expand on @vindaloo's point...

Here are photos of my vRS in Mamba Green

heres mine getting after getting a proper detail and treatment..off course its ****ing down now as I drive it home

Many years back while returning home in a small uphill i heard a ''clang'' noise like something was dropped from below my car, i turn on the left road side with alarm, stopped checked with flash light and i saw nothing. When i parked i smell something like burned oil, i opened the hood and i saw that i had no engine oil cap! My mind went to that noise few minutes back, i took my motorcycle and returned to the same spot, first pass no luck, second and thank God i found it. By chance was dropped a little bit closer to the pavement (and weird) but none of the passing cars all these minutes step on the cap to broke it, i found it almost untouchable. Since in the past one day i saw that has loose with a tendency to ''escape'' i apply some aluminium tape to make things tighter but as i show you this didn't last long. After i installed a new oil cap another day while i was parking and when i was turning the key to ''Off'' position i heard a sound from the engine bay, i raise the hood and what i saw? The small filter for emissions decide to left the hose for Freedom but dropped on the pulley, few seconds more with the car running and i could have a disaster. PS: The photos are not good because was night and i had an old cellphone.

Well this wasn't much fun to do! Ran the car until it was flashing E on the fuel gauge then did another couple of trips to the shops. Started by pumping out 5l with a hand pump, helped by my assistant. Then I loosened the pipe to the fuel filter and slowly drained the other 7 litres! The tank is pretty corroded inside as is the fuel sender. It's hard to tell if the tank has had a large breather removed or is a different tank. It has an internal pipe at the top but I can't see where that goes. Sticker says. 857 201 075 M My parts diagrams have 857 201 075 Q My tank matches one of the diagrams, though I'm missing the gravity valve. Maybe that internal pipe is a breather that's blocked?

I don't think the 1.4TSI was used in the Fabia. I had the 1.2 TSI (4 cylinder) in a Roomster and now the 1.0TSI (3 cylinder) in a Fabia estate, both had the lower bhp and both pretty good for my purposes with the 1.0 being especially frugal unless thrashed!

I'd like to argue that there is only stereo sound available with or without canton?