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I drove to a Skoda store this morning. (Not the same one I ordered my car at a year ago, because that store has been sold to another company lately, but to a store which belongs the same company I ordered from.) Did this just to take a look at the new Octavias, as I am still desperately waiting, and to ask if there is any hope. Got to hear that my car is already at Hanko, which is the place all the new cars arrive here in Finland. Unexpected good news! We booked a time for collecting in the end of august, but it can also be earlier. Must say though, that a week less or more is nothing after one year´s waiting.

got my car today and done a 30 mile run on motorways and side roads with no problems at all.touch wood.now going to trawl through everything to get the settings i want.no dubt i will be asking how to do certain these because i am not up to speed with all of this high tech stuff.

Are we somewhere near to the (only) pressurised oil feed from block up to head in your photo? Marked red in the gasket pic here:

Mines proper belt and braces. Source file backed up to NAS They are backed up to a Desktop USB Drive My NAS also has 2nd Desktop USB Drive that is backed up to weekly, and has versioning control (lives in fireproof safe) Files I cannot download again, so family photos etc, get copied from the NAS backed up to password protected files, before being uploaded to one of my old NAS units offsite. And then my NAS also backs up to a 3rd NAS (yes I have 3x NAS systems) offsite in another location with versioning controls also. I need a nuclear war to take out my data, but I will be crispy, so not too worried about files at that point.

There's no rule, it is up to the individual whether they want to give up the spot. Hybrids don't self charge, they pollute and burn fossil fuel to get energy to charge their battery. 100% of their energy comes from fossil fuel. Plug-in hybrids can charge by either burn fossil fuel or plug in to the grid where an ever increasing portion of electricity is generated via renewables. But the difference between PHEV and pure EV is that PHEV can continue their journey on fossil fuel, so unable to plug in does not affect their schedule. Whereas unable to plug in in pure battery EV will mean they need to stop mid-journey to rapid charge, making journey time longer. So Richard is being nice to EV owners who can benefit the most from able to plug in.

Insufficient evidence. You need to visually inspect, and feel with fingertips any areas that you can't get eyes on. This is an extreme example of what can happen:

Got news today. My vRS iV has arrived at my country. Guestimate is that i might have it in two weeks.

Thanks for the answers/debate. I myself when I first got a car with SS, I was cringing thinking that it would chew starter/kill battery... but my own long term experience was positive, no issues whatsoever. I absolutely appreciate the concern, and agree if you have concerns get it disabled. I mostly adapted my driving style to negate a fair few of the SS chances, by approaching lights at slower speeds if they were red at a distance. Main thing is to enjoy our cars, and disabling it won't hurt it.

It can get confusing for people when multiple threads about the same thing are open so I'll lock this one.

If so, try tightening the nearest two headbolts a little?

I only had one passenger in the rear but was fully loaded with luggage, food, etc. I put 35 in front and 45 in rear and nose weight was at 76kg. I also had a roof box on with about 30 kg in weight. The car towed beautifully all the way. In fact I hardly knew caravan was on the back. Only when white van man went past at 80 mph did I get the odd twitch and not much I can do about that. 😁

It's also well known (at least in the circles I move in) that Conti's have a harder substrait from about 3mm (German wear limit) on down.

The more dense they get the more risk, however if you keep them in a suitable case in a room that doesn't get too hot/cold and without lots of UV light, then they're just fine. At the end of the day, if you can reach a NAS or any other read/write medium from the main computer, then it can be hacked/corrupted too. It's a shame apple time machine type features are not a standard feature available in all OS also. Each item in a backup/archive strategy is just one layer, but the different layers protect against different risks.

Write once optical disks are almost essential as a backup, because they can't be altered once you've backed it up. Off site is an important, but hard to achieve component for most home IT users.

So I just changed my 1YO Duracell and its still reading 3.02V on a multimeter but like a good person I am changing it. One thing I did notice is that the Duracells have an anti-child casing but also an anti-die if you swallow sticky label on the minus side.I removed this last year (obviously) but on the old battery I noticed a small sliver of tape that did not come off when I ripped off the sticker last time round. It was totally invisible 1 year ago but age,air and dust has made it more noticable. It goes virtually half way around the rim of the minus side as you can see. I wonder if some folk are leaving this bit of tape attached and, if you pop the battery in and this bit of tape happens to be where the contacts are - it may stop it working properly (or at all). One to watch out for 🙂 I have half peeled it off the old Duracell CR2025 battery so you can see what I mean:

Yep - I have an online back up of everything work related plus off line copies and three back ups of personal stuff like photos (external HDD, portable HDD and portable SSD). What I need to do is get my daughter into the same frame of mind and get her to think about security and avoiding viruses / malware (I've already added Malwarebytes and the like to the new laptop and got rid of a load of guff software from it she'll never need).

Good shout @EnterName this is often overlooked when people buy IT equipment. They later complain their homework/wedding pics/family photos are in the computer and the hard drive has failed or a rampant virus has chewed them up and spat them out.

External 2.5" WD drives are reliable and pretty sensibly priced. Very handy for back-ups and making sure important college work doesn't get lost. EDIT: I only ever bought one of their 3.5 external drives and it failed pretty quickly. Also needing external power other than the USB connection was a pain. But I have a load of their external 2.5" Passport drives, and they are all still going strong, even my old 250GB USB-2 speed drives which I bought off Play.com what seems a lifetime ago. I've got one 4T drive which is a bit noisy, but hasn't put a foot wrong, reliability wise.

5E0919605H is MIB2 screen so glove box unit must be exchanged as well

Some (very) rough maths. High pressure fuel pump is between £500-£600 Injectors seem to vary wildly in price, £150-£300+ with VAT on top, depending on whether you go and which brand you choose. Timing belt (with water pump kit) is what, around £200 So that's certainly over £1000+ in parts, but let's limit it to £1000 to be conservative for this exercise. Multiply by 1.9 for (very) rough conversion to Euros = €1900 in parts. (Maybe more, maybe less.) Labour is about £60-£80/hour, which is €114-€152. (At same 1.9x rate) Call it €130 an hour. €3000-€1900 = €1100 labour cost, or a little over 8.4 hours work at €130 (9.6 hours at €114, 7.2 hours at €152) It's a lot of money, but from my Googling and fairly conservative maths, I'm not smelling a rat here, especially as I've been conservative with the part costs. I can imagine knocking 25%-35% off that labour cost at an independent, but the parts may be more or less than the numbers I got from Google. The question is, does all that work need doing? An expert diagnosis of the problem is needed. Regarding who does the repair work; if you get an independent to do the work, and they don't solve the problem, will they work at no extra cost to resolve the problem? (That should go for the Skoda dealer too.) Not sure what to suggest, TBH.

I am as well even though I do get called D1ck. George.

No. It is designed to be an automated manual and operate in D when you are braking. Then in manual It will ignore you if you choose a stupid low gear that will break the box. Or some like diesels that will drop too low might try to put you through the windscreen to teach you to be more careful.

Where are you based out of interest? id be looking at getting someone else to look at it, someone that specialises in diesel even. if it’s misfiring then fine it has a fault and yes if you keep driving it you can cause even more damage.

Terrible choice. There is so many better options. And Carista is expensive for what it is. you’re asking for best which will always have to be odis the genuine tool - costing nearly £10,000. now if you mean best for diy use at a reasonable price, then the only 2 valid options are vcds or obdeleven wouldn’t go for anything else personally

First world problem.

Checking the brake servo vacuum hose for splits at the ends of the hard plastic sections is always worth doing on any VW group car, in my experience.

Estate SE in Energy Blue 💙 Collected today.

Collected today and love it, love it, love it! I'll post in the pictures thread soon 🙂

Yes, the pump unit has failed but you're not listening any more, just mucking about swapping pretty coloured oils to no purpose.

Hi, just mentioning I purchased a 4L bottle of oil today at my local Asda superstore, which is on offer at £18, which is quite a low price considering the high price of oil, in general. it is suitable for VW based vehicles, which have the 507.00 spec.

I would like to see a picture of it, i interested for things like this.

WTF does stage 2 mean? Sounds like a day trip to universal studios...

To be 100% sure pls share your VIN on PM so I can check in partslink

I used to use optical back-ups as well (still got a load somewhere) and do have optical drives in the home desktop machine but haven't used them for a while (other than to rip CDs...)

I tend to have a "belt and braces" approach, with data backed up onto external drives and USB sticks, if it's really important. Time was I used to use optical drives for back-ups, but in my experience they are a bit slow and can't really can't be relied on, so now I haven't even got an optical drive on my PC. (I have an external R/W drive, though. Mind you, I've got an external 3.5" floppy drive reader too, just in case. )

here: https://www.kufatec.com/en/skoda/octavia/octavia-nx/retrofit-kit-electric-tailgate-for-skoda-octavia-nx-station-wagon-45295

I can't remember 9mm depth but I might not have been aware or looking at the time. 8mm was my usual thought but I do know it varies even in the same make, model and size of tyre with width/ratio plus I think has changed over the more recent years with different materials in the compounds, also I guess less 'rubber' on the tyre hlps with manufacturer's profit too. The starting depth is one thing but it does depend on the wear rate too and this seems to vary too depending on the tread depth worn to. I bought some Continental EcoContact 6 for my car and I knew the tread was 6.5mm from new by all the whinging I saw about that (I think it was lower because thread block was soft feeling and loose with road use so less block less wobble until the tyre wears in and the driver gets more used to the tyres, well with me anyway). I find it difficult to get some information about tyres especially from the manufacturers but some give more info than others. Only as an example, Toyo NANOENERGY 3, 13" size the tread depth varies from 6.3 mm to 7.4mm depending on width/ratio (so I'm out of date with 8mm here). - https://www.toyo.co.uk/tire/pattern/nanoenergy-3

There is something wrong with a manual an auto or a semi auto if in Neutral with no brake applied and it does not roll. That is what Neutral is, out of gear.

Problems, first world problems - I have never supported vermilion male bovine, but would support Porsche.

Makes sense, I have heard of people unplugging the charging car and swapping it to theirs before. I guess you are living by the gentleman's code of getting out of the way for an EV user, kudos to you.

There is a risk of overinflating the front tyres, the nose weight on the towball loads the rear suspension and applies a turning moment about the rear axle unloading the front suspension, this is more noticable with stiff rear springs like on my Yeti, as the jockey wheel is lowered you can visibly see the rear suspension sag and the front suspension rise but the physics are exactly the same for the softer sprung Octavia estates. If you look at the load/pressure icon it shows 3 or 4 passengers plus luggage and its the rear tyres that get the most inflation, the fronts hardly any extra. If you are towing a caravan or trailer without a full complement of passengers and luggage/goods in the rear of the vehicle inflating the front tyres over the standard setting will result in less effective front brakes, thankfully most of us when towing try to avoid anything other than gentle braking but emergency situations may not be foreseeable or avoidable although most often are.

Our dealer is a mile from us and they are trying. They are speaking to product specialists, who are speaking to higher up, who are getting answers from Korea (so they say). A german colleague who has one, has been told by their dealer after a complaint that there is definately an update for the MY22 cars. Currently with such long wait times for everything, I'm on the fence, however if I take it and that update didn't come then they will only get to screw me and anyone I talk to once.

Best of luck with the process, not sure if dealers will be open to such a complicated retrofit... also if they do they will charge you the Earth for such a simple job. I do agree that it is a First World problem, but I used to spend a fair bit of time on the road myself, so my cold drink and sandwich was happy. The actual issue is more that if you should have had it fitted, after spending so much on the cars... then it damn well better be there. I cannot think that anybody would be happy about not getting the paid for trim level if they were honest. The Dealer that emailed you the chip shortage is a ducking clown, no way that little cap has a microchip in it 😄 Feel free to grab that picture and email them if needed, also given the price of such a simple item, you will be mad to pay dealer for these parts (scrap yard or anywhere else will be cheaper)

I think I have mentioned I took car of official Skoda dealer garage as I cannot afford to pay that amount for repairs, and co-workers suguested way cheaper independant (private) garage to fix car way cheaper (they all fixing theyr car there). So the car at the moment is not in the Skoda garage... And I have to chace that private garage by phone everyday with, "hi, what's the story".. for a week now. Just because I don't want to use a car in that condition. Otherwise, it would be better to drive it home (about 25km trip) and wait until I can to repair the car (15km to official garage). So, yes, I agree I need someone with a good reputation to check my car, that's the fact. But I can't drive the car 😄 stupid loop 🙃 Private garage hopefully give me updates today in relation to rest 3 injectors - they bringing them to check on some kind of special machine 🤔 And they're appears to be concerned with engine compression. Haha new issue found here! I have watched tons of videos on how to replace injector, I think I would be able to replace injectors by myself in two days (20min job for pro 😃) but I don't have a tools and place..

May I introduce you to this folder C:\Ross-Tech\VCDS\Debug It creates some lovely CSV files of changes. AdpLog.CSV CodingLog.CSV A get out of jail card for those that forgot to save original coding.

My last unit from TPS was £190, I nearly fainted... They said there was a surcharge as long as you've got a unit to replace. This was a few years back and in the end it cost me £90. A bit steep, but better than the original asking price. 🙂

I'm getting mine with DCC, and i was hoping the DCC "normal" would be same as standard vRS. Disapponting since the drive modes always reset on start. So i'll have to hit "invidual" every time i start the car IF it's really a bit softer than standard vRS. I was trying to figure this out before i made the order. Eventually i got the Challenge+ pack which came with DCC, so was just hoping that the DCC "Normal" is same as standard VRS. Would really like to know for a fact, how it is.

i get my car tomorrow but sorry off topic i have looked on the site but cannot find it.what is the latest software should my car should have?

You've come to the right man... I do English Literature and Film & TV Studies (Joint Honours Degree) and my 'hack' is a stickerbombed Lenovo ThinkPad X201i. Cost me £90, chucked in a 480GB SSD, and an extra 4GB of RAM to bring it up to 8GB. Goes like stink. However, an X220/230/240 may be a much better choice, or even an X201 that doesn't have an Intel i3 processor at the heart of it. I get about 4 hours battery life out of mine, it has a 12.1" screen. Only issues are it's a little heavy and thick for such a small laptop, and won't run Windows 11 without some ****ery, but it's reassuringly well built and very good under Windows 10. See also: HP Elitebook 8470p, I had one of these with an i5-3320 some time ago, and am buying another for my brother when his Dell packs in. What kind of budget have yous got for a laptop, as both of my suggestions can be had for under £180-250.