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Something similar happened to me with another VW brand - it came up asking for a service at 1yr rather than the variable I'd asked for. The dribble I was given at the time was long-life only applies to company cars. Bottom line is I told them I don't care what your advice is, it's my car, you never asked what service regime I wanted when I collected it, you changed it from factory default without my permission, I want it returned to variable - which they did. What would I do in your situation? First of all I'd check your lease to make sure there's no clause that says the car requires annual servicing. Then I'd check what oil was used at the previous service. Chances are they used long-life ( main dealers tend to use the one oil for both types of service ). If they've used long life, then simply ask them to set the system back to variable servicing regime and forget about the service until it's 4yr or approx 38k-40k, whichever comes first. The downside of them changing it to fixed is when it's returned to long-life, the oil degregation sensor info will have gone until it's reset at it's next service so the car can't tell you if it requires a service sooner than the maximum variable settings. They want to charge to reset the service regime? Tell them every Skoda they receive from the factory comes set for long-life servicing as default therefore to change that, they'd physically have to reset the system. ( that's not quite true - in theory it could have been changed at the PDI when it comes off the boat i.e. b4 it's delivered to the dealer - but then how do they know how the car is going to be used? ) All of my VW cars thoughout the years have arrived at the dealership on variable. The proof is your car went well over the fixed servicing time for it's first service ttherefore the regime remained factory default at that time. If it was me and the garage said they want money to change the service, I'd ask what do you want me to do - raise a warranty claim that the car has changed service regime by itself or complain to Skoda that one of their main dealers doesn't know what they're talking about. If they wanted me to part with money, they'd have to explain why the service regime had changed, shrugging their shoulders and saying they don't know isn't an option.

Price board for the EV charging ...... Morrisons Clacton on sea........

As someone has already said the model year (MY) changes after the summer factory shutdown, and is not the same thing as calendar year. So: MY22 cars are built from approx August 21 to July 22 MY23 cars are built from approx August 22 to July 23 MY24 cars are built from approx August 23 to July 24 - which is why MY24 facelift(?) cars will be available in 2023 Of course cars unfinished due to missing parts can leave the factory at the same time as cars from the next MY - confusing?

Worth pointing out that on the 1.4TSI and 1.5TSi the water pump doees NOT need changing when the timing belt is changed - it's on the other end of those engines to the timing belt and in the 6 years I've been active on briskoda and owning Octavias I can only recall one member reporting water pump failure of those engines.

If you can find someone local with VCDS or similar, and good knowledge, they should be able to swap it back to variable and input all the correct values for time and distance left xx Km and yyy days. Some might call it cheeky, but you could do this. You need to verify what oil was put in on the last change, so time to get paperwork out, odds are it has VW Spec XXX that is same as Long Life.

Did somebody says "rainbow"....?

Floating on a raft till it washed up in the UK

It was registered November 2020 And the same date for UK registration Declared new at first registration

Weird that, such a technical product and so tricky to fit!

I just went online and bought a set that said they'd fit my model. They did. The boot doesn't try to decapitate me anymore. Job done.

Anything major Stylee will come with a Face Lift, but a change of what they are adding, taking away or just tweaking from one year to the next can be anything from colours offered, wheels to actual trim inside or out. From someplace next year Skoda are spinning highly efficient engines in new generation Superb & Kodiaq & a refreshed Octavia will follow in 2024. Turning out cars that customers want within 26 weeks of ordering them would be a good ambition for Skoda i would have thought. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/506709-vision-7s

They are certainly looking much better. So when we are @ 5 years old and more with more 1.5 TSI we will know how they are at over 5 years old. There will always be some issues obviously as nothing can be 100% guaranteed to not have issues. If they were VW Group might do 7 year warranties as standard, or even 6 year ones. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/506240-loosing-coolant

Indeed and this is a shameful situation that low users in mainland GB, not NI as they do not mostly have a Standing Charge I gather and the full cost is just in the kWh rate, as this massive hike in Standing Charges which is much do to Government incompetence in who they allowed to become energy providers. It should be that energy providers could only offer rates which are within the energy contracts they have secured and that they have sufficient insurance to cover energy supplier failure. The price for one's first kWh of the day is effectively going to be the best part of a quid, standing charge and one kWh cost, ie enough power to run a 3 bar 3 kWh electric fire for 20 minutes. Shame on you Con government. £2,500 cost to user, considering the Cons have kept the 5% VAT, the VAT element is £120, so by not zero rating the VAT the Cons are only giving us £280 of our own money across the 6 months ie £46.67 a month net for the winter months whilst collecting the 5% VAT in the summer months and clawing back much of the £47 a month they are giving us as the average user is going to be paying about £40 in VAT during the summer so further reducing what it is actually costing the Con government even less which is largely due to their total lack of investing in gas storage and nuclear power plants.

When you run the a/c is there water dripping out from the drain pipe under the car?

Have you tried changing the lights on the trailer that don't work to LEDs? If the towbar fitment hasn't used the OEM trailer module then the lights could either simply be in parallel with the lights in the car, or energised by relays. Since the car is now coded for LED lights any extra load (such as trailer bulbs) could appear as a 'short to ground', or the PWM signal used for LED bulbs could not properly energise a relay used to power the trailer lights. I suspect the later since you don't mention the car lights not working .

34p for lecky, 10.3p for Gas.................................................. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/energy-bills-support/energy-bills-support-factsheet-8-september-2022#:~:text=The average unit price for,on time for 1 October. If you’re on a standard variable tariff The average unit price for dual fuel customers paying by direct debit will be limited to 34.0p/kWh for electricity and 10.3p/kWh for gas, inclusive of VAT, from 1 October. These unit prices have been passed to suppliers to ensure that they are used to calculate bills on time for 1 October.

If your rear springs are currently 3Q0511115AL, then maybe try the next stiffness up in the hierarchy, ie. 3Q0511115M, as this is a relatively cheap and easy upgrade to try. Rear springs 3Q0511115M Kilen 65126 Lesjofors 4295136 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/3q0511115m?search=OEN+3Q0511115M&supplier[0]=246&supplier[1]=253 You might also want to look at a rear anti-roll bar from a VW Passat B8 estate 4motion 2.0TSI 206kW/280PS, ie. the VW equivalent. This is because the VW Passat B8 equivalent tends to use slightly stiffer anti-roll bars compared to the Superb MK3. K8B means hatchback, K8D means estate. VW Passat B8 rear anti-roll bars 16 5Q0511305BD Anti-roll bar 20,7X2,8 1 CZEA+ PR-1JA,1JG, 1JI,1JR,UC7, 16 5Q0511305BE Anti-roll bar 21,7X3,0 1 CRLB,DDAA, DFEA,CUPA, DFCA,DFGA, DFHA+ PR-K8B+1JA, 1JI,1JG,1JP, 1JR,UC7 16 3Q0511305B Anti-roll bar 21,7X3,0 1 CRLB,DDAA, DFEA,CUPA, DFCA,DFGA, DFHA+ PR-K8D+1JA, 1JI,1JG,1JP, 1JR,UC7 16 5Q0511305BE Anti-roll bar 21,7X3,0 1 CZEA+ PR-1JC,1JP 16 5Q0511305BF Anti-roll bar 21,7X3,6 1 CRLB,DDAA, DFEA,CUPA, DFCA,DFGA, DFHA+ PR-K8B+1JC 16 3Q0511305 Anti-roll bar 21,7X3,6 1 CRLB,DDAA, DFEA,CUPA, DFCA,DFGA, DFHA+ PR-K8D+1JC 16 3Q0511305 Anti-roll bar 21,7X3,6 1 CUAA+ PR-1JP 16 5Q0511305BE Anti-roll bar 21,7X3,0 1 CHHB+ PR-1JP 16 5Q0511305BF Anti-roll bar 21,7X3,6 1 CJXA,DNUA+ PR-1JP 16 5Q0511305BE Anti-roll bar D >> - 07.03.2016 21,7X3,0 1 CZEA,CHHB+ PR-UA7,UB4 16 3Q0511305B Anti-roll bar D >> - 07.03.2016 21,7X3,0 1 CUAA+ PR-UA7,UB4 16 3Q0511305B Anti-roll bar D >> - 02.11.2015 21,7X3,0 1 DFEA,CUPA, DFCA,DDAA, CRLB,DFGA, DFHA+ PR-UA7,UB4 16 5Q0511305BD Anti-roll bar D - 08.03.2016>> 20,7X2,8 1 CZEA+ PR-UA7,UB4 16 5Q0511305BE Anti-roll bar D - 08.03.2016>> 21,7X3,0 1 CHHB,DNUA+ PR-UA7 16 3Q0511305B Anti-roll bar D - 08.03.2016>> 21,7X3,0 1 CUAA+ PR-UA7 16 5Q0511305BE Anti-roll bar D - 03.11.2015>> 21,7X3,0 1 CRLB,DFEA, CUPA,DFCA, DDAA,DFGA, DFHA+ PR-K8B+UA7, UB4 16 3Q0511305B Anti-roll bar D - 03.11.2015>> 21,7X3,0 1 CRLB,DFEA, CUPA,DFCA, DDAA,DFGA, DFHA+ PR-K8D+UA7, UB4 16 3Q0511305 Anti-roll bar D >> - 09.02.2015 21,7X3,6 1 CUAA+ PR-UC9 16 5Q0511305BE Anti-roll bar D >> - 09.02.2015 21,7X3,0 1 DDAA,DFCA++ PR-K8B+UC9 16 3Q0511305B Anti-roll bar D >> - 09.02.2015 21,7X3,0 1 DDAA,DFCA+ PR-K8D+UC9 16 3Q0511305B Anti-roll bar D - 10.02.2015>> 21,7X3,0 1 DDAA,DFCA+ CUAA,DFHA+ PR-UC9 16 3Q0511305B Anti-roll bar 21,7X3,0 1 CRLB,CHHB, CJXA,DFEA, CUPA,DFGA, DNUA+ PR-UC9 16 3Q0511305B Anti-roll bar for vehicles equipped for emergency doctor 21,7X3,0 1 PR-F6I https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/vw/RDW/PA/793/5/501/501030

Any rigid glue you use will break unless the area is prepped properly. I think the best solution that never fails that a DIYer can do is cable tie stitching.

Keep the two pieces joined using some duct or painter's tape at the front side. Then get some black tie wraps and try to melt them using a soldering iron or a lighter over the line formed where the pieces meet each other, at the back side. The one that you will not see when you place the item back to place. You may also try to use litlle metal bar pieces from a piece of scrapped wire. Grab one and hold it with a nose pliers and heat it red hot with a lighter. Then lay it in such way to touch both banks of the joint line and press it to get shoved into the plastic. Like stapling it. Repeat leaving a small gap between stitches until you cover the length of the damage. ------------ A trick for instant glue jobs. When using instant glue pour some baking soda on top of glue. This makes the glue rock solid.

I give up, engine bottom ends don't just fail unless you've run it out of oil. I suggest you drive it in the meantime until a more definitive problem appears.

The one on my Yeti did exactly the same. I solved it thus... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193530911803

Welcome. It would be great if Skoda UK was going to honour an Australian 5 years manufacturers warranty. The car Data has it with no extra warranty. Label in French & English. It would be good to know First Registration date and where the PDI was carried out.

I have an Kodiaq imported from New Zealand and before I bought it I put the VIN into a vehicle history check website called Car Jam to make sure it had no nasty history. Costs very little . Its the NZ/Australia version of the UK's HPI check. When I checked mine it even gave me the NZ registration number issued to it. Mine sounds like the same Spec as yours and all parts are compatible but you'll need the main dealer to re-program the Columbus system. Mine was programmed to NZ so if you looked at the UK it would have no street names but then if you zoomed in over NZ it had all the detail and even had the last owners address in it. I'm more than happy with mine but the reality is that the dealer should have told you it was an import and should't be same price as UK car- Skoda might not honour the main dealer warranty either.

Mine was recently produced sometime between mid-August and August 31st, but VIN indicates MY22. Anyway - just glad it's been completely produced from the start - without going into "storage" waiting for parts; and also glad that it's completed within 54 weeks from order - compared to several "record holders" around here that ordered before me and don't have a complete car.

It has been a while since my last update, I've done a few jobs since. The front anti roll bar bushes had gone bad again so I've changed them for powerflex ones I did a pretty big job a couple of weeks ago, I noticed one of the injector seal or its cup was leaking and also found a split in one of the breather hoses so Ive replaced them all with new gaskets for the inlet manifold and throttle body. I've simplified the hoses a bit and got rid of the sai because it stopped working a while back. I also replaced the fuel hoses as they had some cracks all over them. I've left the n249 valve on for now. I didn't take many photos whilst doing it mainly because I forgot and got carried away with working it all out. The best thing I've had done is new tyres and wheel refurb. Like an idiot I forgot the before photos and the new centre caps haven't arrived yet but you get the idea. I went for 225/45/17 Goodyear eagle f1 asymmetric 6, got them from Halfords as they where the cheapest at £72 each. I had the wheels power coated the standard colour. I'll get some better pictures for the next time to, they aren't even clean in this picture but never mind they still look a lot better than when they had curb rash on every wheel. I'm still chasing a problem which I'm hoping a new front lambda sensor will sort out because I've had this fault code a couple of times recently, with the car hesitating and bucking at low speed.

He already did, do keep up dear!

Well... this is a really odd one isnt it! The only 'correct' way they can resolve the issue is by issuing the correct SVM code to the vehicle so Skoda's system is up to date with it now being UK spec. I cant believe someone would import a car to the UK from australia, just to sell it? Or more than someone owned it for 2 years and didnt realise if it was in the wrong country Good luck! be interesting to find out the cause and reason.

1.9 TDI engines certainly have a reputation for longevity. I suspect that an '08 Scout has the 2.0, 8 valve, BMM engine. It's a nice torquey unit but I'm not sure if it's as robust as the earlier engines. It'll have the added complication of a DPF as well. That's equally true of the Euro 6 engines. My 6 year old 150 TDI Yeti only has some 45k miles on it so I'm not really able to comment on reliability. However, it is very smooth, pleasant to drive and with a remap also goes pretty well.

It wasn’t to bad to be honest, it was a 1.9tdi so pretty good anyway.

Now I´m sure you all find me as WAG hacker..... NOT third try is the charm...

Odds are high that the update is 0480 But you're in the wrong menu for firmware flashing. Hold down your menu button for a few seconds until you get into engineering screen, look for Software Train, this also has the correct button to flash with. Post a picture of Software Train.

The other thing to note from that document is that the increased standing charges are NOT being reduced: Average standing charges will remain in line with the levels set by Ofgem for the default tariff cap from 1 October, at 46p per day for electricity and 28p per day for gas, for a typical dual fuel customer paying by direct debit.

Hi, welcome to the forum. Strong possibility that the cam-chain has stretched, or cam tensioner has failed, causing the valve timing and fuel injection to get out of sync.

I would drive and enjoy your new purchase when you get it and wait and see if you really need a tuning box/ remap. Ive recently changed from a 2.0 Tsi 180 4x4 Kodiaq to a 1.5 tsi 150 and can honestly say I’m not missing the extra 30hp but in current circumstances I am enjoying the extra mpg.

I ordered a 245 vrs in Jan this year and still had no build date. As my pcp ran out this month I phoned around the dealerships and picked up a new one yesterday after cancelling my initial order. Dealers were so helpful must be a nightmare for them

Do not push a stick/tube down the pipes!!! There is a good chance you’ll detach them and if it’s anything like the older ones, they will never go back on properly and you’ll have to replace. the blockage will be in 2 places. Where the tube starts at the sunroof which you have cleaned. And in the wheel arch front and rear where the tube ends. the best way to describe it is like a cows udder but in black. And it will be blocked solid with dirt, if you find it in the wheel arches and either open it up and clean it out or massage it and all the dirt will break apart and fall out. Then flush it through with water from above and clean it fully

And still has overboost errors based on your original posting. Other than clear plastic wraps on a pristine original colour vehicle, wrapping is an aesthetic choice. Just don't expect everyone else to love your lime green and purple "hippie scheme", your "pink pig", or Berlin Brigade camouflage or whatever.

You have keen eyes. That Forman looks high because it has modified strut mountings. They did on purpose. That car was on sale when I saw its pictures. They claimed it was a rebuild. The asking price at time was about €6250. I have more pictures of that car. I collect interesting Fav./Fel. pictures. Beautiful rebuilds, interesting ideas, weird modifications etc. I can start a new topic and post these pictures on a regular basis. (If anyone would be interested) Nothing beats the experience from real life. Thanks for sharing.

Thank you. I’m also not interested in dropping the car too low. I actually recently changed the wheel and tyre combination to 245/35R20 tyre with 20x8,5" ET35 as I was gifted the rims used from a friend. Originally wanted to stick with 19s but am quite happy with the comfort and the roads near me are quite good. The rims fill the arches out nicely although the combo does lift the car almost 9mm through increased tyre diameter which has inadvertently helped avoid scraping in our steep driveway. Speedometer error has been accounted for and was about 1%. Really just trying to keep the current aesthetic in terms of ride height. This is the car unloaded. those Goodyear tyre’s look really good. I’ll be looking at those for our Tiguan. I’m currently running Khumo PA51 AS on the Skoda which are helpful getting around at the snow and are a nice soft compound.

I used to use these guys all the time, but I'm not sure whether they ship packages over 2kg to the UK any more. I have a full set of rubber mats, the mat over the rear transmission tunnel, and a really comfy alcantara front middle armrest cover with stitching to match my sportline seats. http://www.kopacek.com/Skoda/SUPERB-III/Floor-mats-Carpets/

Cheers all. If I am feeling like and argument I might go in next week and ask to speak to the boss. Paperwork details a VAG part no. for the oil used but no spec so they could have used cooking oil for all I know. The dates and mileages of the previous services are clearly linked to "variable" oil and "inspection" services so don't think they have a leg to stand on but the very polite service lady basically told me I was wrong and to bugger off unless I wanted to pay for another oil change. At least the new car i'm waiting on has 10k/12 months services so I know exactly when it needs to be done.

It will be you having made adjustments to the coding for your OEM rear lights, now your tow bar is no longer getting power supplied to the rear light on the socket. Fixing it will be problem now, you may have to look very close at coding and try to get it working again, or take to professionals that did the tow bar and maybe they can code with your OEM LED lights.

That is extremely cheap, mind you it was a few years ago. Most places charge around £6-800 for the job now including water pump. I personally charge my customers just short of £450 if its for the 1.6 or 2.0 tdi engine including a new water pump and coolant replacement. (Watch out cause a lot of dealers will quote without water pump then add that on after) EDIT: Regarding actual time scales and everything - Skoda for the UK market recommend every 5 years. Can it last longer? Probably Will it last longer? Probably Would I like to test it and find out? No thank you I would stick to the 5 years personally and not try and scrimp on something that could end up costing a lot more in the long run.

When you say the mirror failing, its a fairly involved system. There are 4 wires running to a hub behind the mirror glass - these control 2 motors in each direction. These are controlled by the door control module. To correctly diagnose youll need to remove the glass and the hub and check for the correct voltage at each of the 4 pins when the mirror is moved. The opposing pin should switch to ground. If all of these test okay youll need to then check the motors themselves to see if they function. This should put you in the right direction. A fault scan of the door module will also give a better understanding and id expect a open/short code to be stored.

Keep us updated please, I might need a tow bar but for carrying bikes not a trailer.

I'd agree; do you want good and reliable, or do you want cheap?

They’ve found a load of unused 1.9TDI PD 130s in basement storage. Gonna whack those in.

Vroom, many thanks for the diagrams, very helpful. The usb socket is item 5 on the rain sensor, road camera version. Using the NextBase lining tool I was able to remove the covers around the mirror stalk and ease the large cover over the camera. I was then able to re-site the usb-c socket using a small screwdriver, this was rubber covered and held by friction in a housing in the camera cover. Lesson learned: do not buy cheap cables off Amazon, the usb-c connector seemed too small and lacked the internal springy guides that centre the plug over the blade in the socket.

The instructions are fairly similar for removing, but there's minor differences for basic vs camera/rain sensor types. There's no mention of the USB connector here, so I can only assume this is correct location. Removal is fairly simple, clips basically (take it slow!)