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My car, uncoded, just continued to charge as though my previous battery was on there. Once coded and it knew it was new, the charging characteristics completely changed. I would certainly make sure you do it right, with the cost of a battery these days.

Thanks for everyone for your input into this. I sourced a replacement screen (Thanks to @pab567for confirming the part number) from a breakers on eBay, along with a set of removal keys. 5 minute job to pop off the dodgy screen and replace it with the new one. Now the touch screen works as it should. Total cost about £100, in comparison to the dealer wanting £950 (!) for the job.

Last nights sunset (and my Jag).....

New wheels fitted

Just in case people ever wonder, the function of the fabric cover is not to keep battery warm in Winter, it's to keep out the heat from the engine bay destroying the battery. It's a common misconception. VAG have made this statement, I can dig out the source if needed. Choice between a plastic box and the fabric cover, the one @roottoothas linked to is what you need, more so if AGM battery is used.

That’s better! This rotor arm fits. Bought on EBay UK, made in Spain, delivered to New Zealand from Latvia.

The numbers you quote are the temperature rather than brightness. It defines how yellow or blue the bulb is I think. Some Googling will throw up more detail

The GPF might just be the issue. It is a matter of time before posts on these will become more common. People will be asking at dealerships and employees will have not a clue. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/479195-car-behaving-strangely GPF fitted from 2018. Plenty threads in this section about them when they were coming in. They need dealt with differently from DPF. Dealerships not showing prices for replacements yet but that time will come for some.

Check manual, see if you have a GPF (or what the petrol exhaust filter is called) trying to do a regeneration cycle?

When charging a Stop / Start EFB / AGM battery you need to:- Use a smart charger and, Connect the Positive to the battery terminal, Connect the Negative to the earthing point on the inner wing. Note that the nut is painted so you need to attach it to the clip at the end of the earthing cable under the nut. See your manual for detail / diagram. Thanks, AG Falco

In particular, when battery type is being changed - i.e. EFB to AGM as PB intends.

You would be surprised how poor the product knowledge is of many dealers and some specialists. AFAIK all Octavia 3's have start/stop, which means that all Octavia 3's have battery monitoring and hence all need recoding when a new battery is fitted.

I find it hard to believe that there's no battery monitoring if you have start/stop, which means it needs coding. Do you have a module on the terminal of the battery?

312’s have arrived

Just what I was typing as I saw your reply pop up. I thought 'I bet George has...' 😁 G

I needed to replace my Michelin Alpin 6 on the front of my Corsa electric after getting a bulge from a hard hit on a pothole. Also a few cuts on the sidewall. Down to 2mm. So were coming off anyway before any snow. I had ordered BG Goodrich G-Force Winter 2 but they were not available so I have Riken Snow tyres instead on. Much meatier tread. 9mm now as new. Tyres half the price of the Aplin 6 and from a manufacturer Michelin own. Still a pair of Alpin 6 on the rear with wear after 32,000 miles in 2 years. Now @ 5mm. I will see how the Riken are in the wet later and in the dry when the newness is off. In the snow in maybe a couple of weeks time.

Wheels done and ready for collection

Steering wheel Saturday !

More pics

Cheers, I'll have a read up. Most of what I've seen so far is all about diesel DPF's. Not found much practical advice on petrol GPF's / PPF's. I'll drive more thinking about getting the exhaust hotter over saving fuel for a bit and see what happens. There's no mention though of the higher revs happening in the manual, just the filter light coming on which mine hasn't. I guess i don't really want to see it coming on either!

From memory, there are 4 values you can modify regarding battery. Make: VAO (Varta for example) Technology: Fleece (AGM) Ah: 70Ah (example) Serial: 12345678901 (example) Only the 2 bold entries are important to get right IMHO, and for Serial number you can just add one to existing. I would say they exist for a reason, so the car knows the health (State of Charge) if you just change, it might make the Alternator charge the battery more often, using more fuel amongst other issues.

Have you set your tailgate to 'Sport' mode? Or is it like ship's lighting - red at night so as not to affect your night vision?

I don't agree Phil. I think you should push Skoda. Then decide if you want them to do it, or if it'll be more cost effective to use a good indy. If you look at what happened to me, it would have cost me £250. Having had the car remapped (after the warranty expired I might add) was my downfall, as Skoda UK used it as a get-out card (which of course it is). So long as you've not had anything done that would void the warranty, if I were you, I'd be pushing Skoda. I take John's point, turbo's let go, sh 1t happens. I had a B5 Passat that was at 275k and on it's original turbo when I sold it. There are plenty of tales of turbo's lasting a very long time, but there are also those of us who've experience the opposite from time to time. Googling IS20 Turbo longevity/lifespan brings up some very interesting results. Best o'luck with getting it fixed 👍 Gaz

Exactly, tip of the mountain has to come soon followed by an avalanche of stock to be sold and prices coming down. Just hope that happens very soon

Car go fixed, local dealer actually knocked £50 off teh bill without asking. Battery was fine but the bulb holder was unsurprizingly corroded. Since fixing no more battery problems. Haven't found the will to take up a fight with the selling dealer.

I can't really complain. I know the guys who worked on my car and the amount of effort and head scratching that went into fixing it. Another notch on my one-of-those-things post. Car was fine after and went like the clappers (circa 320bhp). So much so that I was hesitant right up to handing the keys over when I traded it in for the GTI. G

The revs are falling off at the correct rate, yes an engine would slow down quicker on a closed throttle but at the cost of emissions (oil mist drawn through valve guides and past piston rings) so the idle by pass valve allows air but not fuel to pass removing the intake vacuum. Fuelling is added as it nears idle speed and you can see that by the marked slowing down of the fall of the RPM, the hunting up and down between 800 and 1000 rpm is the idle stabilisation circuit, the first upwards blip I would expect but not the hunting while you were trying to maintain a fast idle, there will be an air leak somewhere, either a vacuum pipe, the idle by pass valve or EGR valve not seating properly. I doubt that the revs will ever fall faster between gear changes than they currently do. The engine may also have a lot of inertia from the flywheel, if it has one of those abortion 3 bearing crankshafts then that alone will produce enough inertia to make you change gear slowly.

Nope sorry, I didn't make any pictures. The cable from the amplifier to the cable is short so what I did was get an extension for the usb, hooked it to the plug providing only power. Ran that to the small glove box on the driver side. It gave me enough mic cable left to put the mic on the sun visor.

You may be able to just remove a fuse to disable the sound generator. This video is worth watching:

I remove it to clean the area from the ''green'' corrosion which i am afraid affected the signals that the MAP was receiving. Yes plus some air from rubber bulb blower.

Nice and cheap.

You don't need any protection there. The factory cover is a sleeve. There is an aftermarket top cover if you want your battery to look fancy even though only the mechanic will be impressed https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32865910702.html or maybe similar

Yes looks like mib1 Amundsen. If going for aftermarket system then CP (component protection) shouldn't be an issue. 2 issues you'll come across that I can think of immediately: 1. Physical space for the Kenwood unit. There is limited space at the top of the hole as the channels for the vents slopes down. b) the Comms cables are currently routed to the glovebox as that is the where the main mib unit is. Possible to reroute but may need cable mods/extension. iii- many of the car systems are controlled/adjusted by the infotainment system. An aftermarket one may not pick up all the relevant bits through the canbus. The above contributes to why many on here go for mib2 upgrade. Parts aside, the relevant coding costs in the region of £300-350 for mib2 upgrade. Maybe a starting point would be to contact pab567 and ask what his cheapest solution would be. You may be surprised. Then recover some money back by selling the Kenwood?

To be fair, a paper atlas is only as good as the person reading it. My aunt complained she couldn’t find the big river shown on the map - it was the M6 🙄 Massively frustrating! Hopefully a trip to the dealer will sort it…

On both my previous 2015 1.4TSi and my current 2016 1.8TSI the battery was/is wrapped in a fabric box that included a lid, but you seem to be describing something much more rigid than that? Maybe something more rigid was a facelift change?

Canton is definitely good. It's accurate and clear. Sound insulation in the car is also excellent for the class of the car. The only thing it lacks is deep bass, but that's not actually required to enjoy most music genres. After all most people listen to music on bookshelf speakers or smaller, which do not go down low either. Oh and I almost forgot, you can turn up the volume and nothing rattles. I think a lot of people take this for granted. 🤣

I suppose… I mean it is a fabia and not an Octavia VRS* *(Very old in joke from the early days of the forum about the mk1 fabia vrs)

Halfords can do it (I know, I was dubious too) whether they would do it as a charge for a battery they didn't fit I don't know. I've also read that some can get away with it and errors should disappear after a few cycles of ignition.

You need vcds or obdeleven, for example.

Did you code the battery management system to tell it you have changed the battery? If not it will assume the old battery is fitted.

After previously owning 670 and 695 I had to have another one. This one is 571. One owner and just 77k on the clock with full history and rare on an 08 plate. It has a Jabbasport rear anti roll bar fitted which is a nice addition. Needs some work to make mint but nothing too serious. First jobs were to clean and get Aircon serviced. I also fitted a new genuine headlamp as one was very cloudy. New style badges ordered as well. The ones on it now are hideous !

Wheels back from Fusion Alloys. Fantastic service as always from them. Just waiting on Centre caps to arrive in the post now.

Thank you for your kinds words, guys. Knew I should have ventured on here sooner 🥰 The quack put me straight and told me to give myself a break too. I am trying, but can’t help but to push! Bizarrely, also tend to forget what I’ve been through 🤪

Ken, you’re always excused for not saying more

wee beastie

Done a few bits today. Replaced the colour coded front number plate plinth for a new genuine one. And replaced both mirror glasses as they had started to de laminate around the edges. Also took advantage of Halfords 50 percent off wiper blades and fitted some Bosch Aero Twin ones. Ohh and popped to AW tuning for a stage 1 map !

It’s been an EGR cleaning day today !

Stunning road trip to the Lake District

Skoda Surprisingly Spacious!

New rear badge and service items have arrived