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Thanks for all your responses and apologies for the delayed reply as I've been busy with work. @toot - Skoda customer services and the dealer have declined any goodwill payment / compensation with CS saying "we are not financially regulated" and to speak to the dealer. On asking CS to escalate within their own team they contacted the dealer directly who advised, as expected, they would not support any goodwill or compensation on the basis the car has only been serviced there once (in my defence, that is all that's been due). I've also tried to speak with the dealer directly between times but have got nothing back. @TheClient @grldtnr - thanks for the information you've both provided. I think I will have difficulty claiming the fault was there (as such) when I bought the car as I've had it for over 6 months and several thousand miles on the clock before the fault developed. The suggestion of an inherent fault with the gearbox is the reason I had held out for Skoda offering some sort of compensation but it doesn't look like that's a battle the consumer is going to win any time soon. I suspect as long as VAG maintain the gearbox is fit for purpose (even if there is a TPI for the fault) re-sellers will use this as a defence. Ultimately I want to make it clear I'm not looking for a free ride - I accept that second hand cars will develop faults and it is a risk you run. It is annoying that VAG don't take a different attitude given an apparent abundance of owners with DSG (and specifically mechatronic) failures but, as above, the hassle factor has to be taken into consideration. For me, I have asked the local independent to go ahead with booking us in to have the mechatronic repaired and I hope that will be the end of it! Thanks for everyone's input. Hopefully this thread will be of some use to another reader in the future.

It might be grippy, but wheeeeeeeee...

Should we call the RSPCA ...? 🤣 Apologies Lynn but I couldn't resist that one - Childish I know 😒

Just wandering around the North Cape of Norway (as you do) via Google Street View..... https://www.google.com/maps/@70.9766757,25.7912167,3a,75y,264.05h,88.67t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sPEQkRScmgnZdw0QAhkBrRQ!2e0!7i16384!8i8192 Is this the furthest-north Yeti pic? Best wishes for Christmas and the New Year to you all 🥂

It is the typical Carwow over exaggeration. No official verification and no two-way run. It takes nothing away from the McMurty though. Amazing machine. I can't wait to see what the road car can do, especially on a hot lap around a track (even if it can't make a whole lap of the 'Ring' at max attack).

Pictures please of discs and pads. Just for a laugh. Then time to get the Dealership publicity globally for their concern over customers safety and the upselling profits for the dealership owners.

This is why I tend to recommend going to a trusted independent in preference to a main dealer. A little effort thinking outside the box can turn what seems like a prohibitively expensive repair into something much more manageable. Of course, it does need to be a GOOD independent garage.

Yeah. Hard to fight now and hard to understand what the actual issues is / was. Unless you asked for said replaced turbo. This will not make you feel better and it's a true story on these very forums on a mk2fl vrs skoda wanted to replace the turbo because the vband clamp had broken. "Can't get part separately according to etka" replace turbo required. ... £10 from an online turbo repair place and half an hours work at an independent shop and car fixed. That poster was pretty happy to have asked on here!! For this reason you can't take all their advice as gospel or indeed the best course of action, unfortunately. BtW what engine/ model Oct are we talking about here?

I agree with @StevesTruck that sounds as legit as a nine bob note.

Sounds fishy to me. I wouldnt say let it go that far, but there's a fair way between the light being on and metal on metal.

Top man Danoid!, just tried this on my Superb and have now got heat & fan back in the footwells again.

Looks very tiny parked next to the Qashqai

I’m only guessing here, but isn’t there normally a flap buried near the center console which moves from cold to hot? The fact it’s just the drivers side makes me think something is up with the HVAC side of things. Try looking for flap adjustments for a Skoda and plug it in and do a scan (if you haven’t already), I guess you’d be able to force a calibration in vcds too. I might be talking rubbish but ya never know Edit: look at the comment by tommi, fingers crossed

Compliments of Honest John: "Motorists are being advised to only use main roads if ‘necessary’ during the planned 12 day strikes by workers at National Highways, which is responsible for England’s motorways and major (trunk) roads. The industrial action, which has been organised by the Public and Commercial Services Union (PCS), is due to start tomorrow, 16 December 2022, initially with National Highways workers in the north west, Yorkshire and the Humber and the north east striking for two days. This will be followed by workers in the London and the south east from 22 December to 25 December, the West Midlands and south west from 30 December to 31 December. A two-day national strike will take place with all traffic officer service employees at all National Highways workplaces on 3 and 4 January 2023. This will be followed by workers in the East Midlands and eastern areas striking on 6-7 January 2023. " https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/news/driving-1/2022-12/motorists-warned-to-only-use-main-roads-if-necessary-as-national-highways-workers-strike/?utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Newsletter 15 December 2022&utm_content=Newsletter 15 December 2022+CID_c70b26f97dfe444788aa6ffcf36201bb&utm_source=campaign monitor&utm_term=Read more So, we can't travel by rail, shouldn't travel on the highways, can't get sick and use the NHS, can't send letters (Royal Mail) or parcels (Post Office Parcels or DPD), can't get our bins emptied (Biffa) - it's going to be an interesting Xmas!

I would argue that naming if they pull through is more important. An honest garage is good to know of.

Woohoo, free easy fix, result

There’s the thickness values. Can measure with a set of vernier callipers pretty crudely by using a couple of nuts and zeroing it to get over the lip at the edge of the disc.

I guess you could ask for the written comms record to get a bit more visibility of the issue they discussed. Although I suspect even in those comms the actual issue might be light on detail... more discussion on how little to contribute. Still, OP, sometimes you are best to move on...

I would love to see the communications between the dealership staff, Skoda / VW UK or the Skoda factory. Written communications. Was the Customer Assistant that branch or dealership group Warranty Manager. Regardless lying is part of the skill set.

I think you may now be a little stuck now the work has been done, it's a pity you didn't post before giving the go ahead. I am shocked they say it has corroded, unless you park next to the sea with the bonnet open, I find it hard to swallow that bs myself. Carbon build up internally can foul up the turbo, seizing the vane inside that directs the flow onto the turbo.

For many all weather / all season 3 peak will do for 365 day all year. So not Winters as such. CrossClimates in the rims the car had. Michelin CrossClimate 2 as an example, but there are more sports based all weather's available. The OP,s quattro might of just had better tyres and it was not just having Haldex that made a difference as plenty AWD /;4x4,s part time awd,s are slip sliding around me today. Wrong tyres, no brain drivers. Ps, if the postie, taxis, couriers, home delivery vans are out and up and down hill ok then they are nearly all on Summer tyres. If the roads are not moving with traffic then there is a reason why. If little old ladies and men are getting about in city cars with factory tyres there is a reason. Experienced, skill, correct vehicle, not that bright maybe and one stop away from an accident.

That was it, cheers, found the first 2 fuses, didn't think there'd be a third that didn't stop anything else working.

I don't think the relay would affect the washers? Have you checked fuse 15? See here: Wipers not working?? - Read this first!! - Skoda Fabia Mk I - BRISKODA Looks like your issue, see PastyBoy's post in there, quarter of the way down page 1. 👍

Pretty sure I've read this one-sided heat loss as a symptom of the silikat matrix blockage several times on here. Maybe the structure and connections of the matrix are such that when it starts to block up, one lateral side is more affected than the other.

For winter and snow, just fit Winter tyres. The rubber compound and grooving of summer tyres are never going to work in the Winter. All you will achieve is ending in a ditch trying different tips on your summer tyres. And no 4x4 will helps, when braking all 4 tyres will drift anyway. Summer tyres just don't grip on snow, period. I personally go to all 4 Winter tyres from november to April in France. There are cheap and very good alternatives like the vredestein wintrax on 17 inch

Remember kW is different to kWh. 50 kW, 120 kW are power rating of the charger. 58 kWh is energy size of the battery. 50 kW charges 50 kWh in 1 hour: 50 kW * 1 h = 50 kWh 50 kW charges 100 kWh in 2 hours: 50 kW * 2 h = 100 kWh. For rapid charging, the battery charging characteristic is also important. With ideal conditions (battery pre-heated in winter, cooled in summer) Cupra Born should follow the following charging curve (the green line for faster charger, yellow for 50 kW rapids) https://support.fastned.nl/hc/en-gb/articles/4415872109329-Cupra So your questions: A. We get 50 kW all the way to 80%. Battery is 58 kWh, therefore 30min (half of 1 hr, simpler to calc than 35min) gives you 25 kWh, which is 43%. So 30min from 20% on a 50 kW charger gets you to 63%. B. 50p/kWh for 25 kWh costs 0.50 * 25 kWh = £12.50. 50p/kWh for 5%-80% on ultra rapid costs 0.50 * (58 * 75%) kWh = £21.75. For cost calculation, always start from kWh used, because charging speed changes. Not worth subbing IMHO. I've yet to use ANY charging away from my house. But it's worth getting Octopus Electroverse for a tiny discount and the RFID card, no subscription cost and works in Europe mainland as well as many chargers here. Use my link to sign up to Electric Universe & we both get £5 credit! (Removed)

@Mr Grump The maths is reasonably simple, if we assume a perfect system. (e.g. No heat losses, all charge goes to the battery and maximum charging speed at all times). A 120kW charger will deliver 70kWh in 35 minutes, (120/60)*35=70. To get 70kWh out of a 50 kW charger work out the kWh per minute 60/60= 0.833 then divide 70 by 0.833 to get the time taken to deliver 70kWh. 70/0.833=84 minutes. The answer to B is straight forward. 35 minutes @ 120kW is 70kWh, so cost is £35. This is basic maths, so wondering if I'm falling for some bait?

I know the blokes at Fakenham tyres just 20 minutes down the road would do that for me, they are a good bunch there. They were the ones who welded a new flexi pipe onto my cat to save me money.

From the owners manual…

Such a cool car. Used for several Targa rallies. Rough paint but original. Holes in the carpet where the roll cage has recently been cut out. also has Murray Walker and Peter Brock’s signatures on the paint !

Personally I’d walk away. if they’ve not repaired it properly by either cheaping out on parts or a lack of attention to detail to notice ‘black != chrome’, well then what else have they messed up or done wrong.

Nothing new to report really, just been plodding along. Now not far from 71,000 miles, which seems scary to me considering it was on 52,000 when I brought it home. Here it is, after a little fun in the snow, since I haven't really been out with it recently, mainly just staying in the village. For summer tyres, these aren't too bad, as long as you take it easy. As I said in the 'weather' thread, it's like a little mountain goat, as I drove it across this field which isn't smooth in the slightest... I'm just glad it isn't lowered. Got some plans for this, going forward. It's a perfect car for the winter since it's light and grippy. As such, plan is to put winter tyres (or all-seasons) on it, set of halogen spotlights down beside the foglights but wired into the main beams, and treat any rust then cover it in underseal of some sort. I've got a stupid thing incoming, eventually, more on that in potentially a separate thread. I think that's everything for now, though.

There are two elements to a softer ride: 1) The wheel and tyre size, by reducing the rims, can have deeper sidewall tyres, really want 60 aspect (or at least no lower than 55 aspect) 2) The choice of tyres, as a general rule anything called Eco or sport is firmer, you want a touring tyre, or better still an all season tyre which will be softer in winter temperatures. Try and get tyres with the weight rating as close as possible to the specification. example if 91 is required, then must be equal or higher, but if get too high eg 98 or tyres are XL (extra load) then sidewalls will be stiffer than optimised for comfort. But if you regularly heavily load car then picking stronger tyres might be sensible.

Sorry, I'll remember not post referral links on here in the future. Thanks for removing it. Indeed. As Lucky puts it, most of charging will be at home. So the price of rapid charging, especially near home, wouldn't matter vast majority of the time.

Well, I'm coming up 70 and have been involved with "small" computers since the early '70s. Will that do?

The stock one is plasti-welded to the OEM grill, so I believe the typical practice for fitting the aftermarket nut + bolt ones is to open the bonnet and try to attach it using both hands in and outside of the engine bay. Might be tricky if you've got bigger hands, but could always try using a magnetic screwdriver or pick-up tool to marry up the bolt to the badge...? Otherwise, taking the bumper off would be a pretty disproportionate task in terms of the effort required compared to fitting the badge - as I'm sure you've worked out already 😉

Depending on the year, you should expect a Colour Edition to have cruise control, 16in black wheels and roof contrast over the SE spec. VW have made the current base 1.0 3-cylinder petrol engine for over a decade, though turbocharged models were introduced later from 2016ish elsewhere in the VAG empire.

So, I still took this in to the garage as planned since a service was booked for the same day. I told them on arrival that the unit was back working and the member staff said that they would still go ahead and replace it and when I picked the car up she said 'obviously you'll have to resave all your radio stations and other settings'. I expected this because a new unit is the same as a factory reset. The thing is I didn't have to do anything - all my settings were as before. So, TBH, I am skeptical that the garage did actually carry out the replacement. Suppose the main thing is that the system is currently working fine

Mine have LED front and rear already for that reason, so recommend anyone swapping out the dingy yellow bulbs if possible. The amount of heat the normal bulbs produce is insane.

F*ck a duck! Thats escalated a little bit!! Maybe a second hand one is a cheaper option but I still believe it will go eventually. LED bulbs also help as they draw far less power than regular bulbs.

See the charging time and kW hours from my account. **2nd from top, good charge, low battery, hot, weather not too cold and charging just to 85%.** 41 mins 54 seconds. 25.58 kW. Or Turnberry Lodge Road charger. Usually a low battery when i start charging and a good charge speed. You get up to 50 kW (maybe just 45kw) starting with a low battery and until the charger slows. That will for longer with a bigger battery. As you will see i seldom get 30 kW in 60 minutes on 50kW (Rapid Chargers). This is about as poor as EV's get though. I get 6.6 kW in an hour on a 7kW AC charger, the same on a 11 / 22 or 45 kW AC as i only have a 7kW onboard charger, not a 11, 22 or 45 kW which some cars / vans have.

Yes all the fuses in the battery fuseholder are permanent 12Vs. Check the blade fuses just to the right of the strip fuses, under a black plastic cover. Many folk don't realise they are there. Numbers 7 and 9 (or possibly 10 if built late in 2005) are relevant. Fuse 7 (25Amp) has a red/green wire going from it to ABS module pin 25, and Fuse 9 (or 10) has a red/white going to ABS pin 7. That one should be a 10 Amp fuse. Wouldn't be surprised if you find one of those blown, and possibly a corresponding wire damaged/shorting.

Not saying it is this... But please check.

That root is the worst in the whole territory, is in the top of the mountain and in the past people have died there due to frostbites or went to hospital when the find them many hour latter. As long i was behind the Jimny and the Fabia everything was OK but when they moved away things get worst. Their tracks covered with fresh snow but i was far away and i could step on those tracks in time so soon they became crust. Soon everything became a scene worst that this: From the same spot that the car was spinning and stopped after some minutes start rolling ''normally''. After a while i saw cars which where about an hour ahead of us to be abandoned in the side of the road, i was moving slowly with no one in front of behind me, i was completely alone. I don't want to to the same again, i was lucky once so i won't ''push it'' for second time.

I renewed so I would get up to date maps and traffc info for the satnav I use week in week out. I have no problems paying for a service I want. You could of course just go for a nice dinner, but the satnav may not get you there!!

The wheels have been re-finished without the diamond cut too. Not a bad thing IMHO (I have done similar to mine) but perhaps an indication of a previous owner 'personalising' the car, maybe they have done similar with the grille? I'll be honest I would probably still walk away.

To be honest it sounds like you've bought someone's previous problem so I think that's the best plan of action. A recon engine from Skoda will be lots of dosh(much more than £1300) - don't accept what some people call a recon engine that's just an engine out of a scrap car. Also with this sort of oil usage lots of things will be not so good eg DPF, Cat, exhaust sensors, EGR and turbo with oil/diesel contamination.

After the Conti All Season tyres were fitted on Tuesday, the tyres were so disgusting being covered in fitting lube, I decided to clean car for the first time in two months yesterday. So Tyres first, using Gyeon Q2M Tire Cleaner. Wheels next; pressure washed to remove the light brake dust, then cleaned the alloys using two buckets filled with filtered water and Poorboys Superslick, using a noodle glove and EZ wheel brush. Then I Snowfoamed the entire car - twice - with a medium pressure wash down in between. Then I shampooed with Car-Chems 1900:1 Pure which, if you haven’t used it, is the slipperiness shampoo you’ll find and, at 15ml to 25litres, it lasts and lasts. I used a Race Glaze filter on the final rinse, dried down using my pet drier (just as good as the very expensive yet remarkably similar dedicated “car” units!) and fluffy microfibres and finally I topped-up the TW Graphene Wax on the bonnet, door tops and boot-lid. Unfortunately I was too cold, in too much pain wiv me poor ol’ back, cold to the bone and knackered to do the roof and doors and to dress the tyres. Still three hours well spent and it looks much better for it.

I think the main point is also to not mix tyre types at all. Putting a different type on (extreme weather, spare tyre, etc) is a temporary situation.

It's all relative. Amplified in the wet. And again with low thread depth. Better tyres are like ABS and stability control. Almost never required, but when you need it.... It might make a difference.