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Well this is a bit embarrassing, what a difference it makes having the right tools for the job. Battery coding was previously done with a handheld unit (not mine). Checked the 4 battery coding adaptions this morning: Manufacturer, VOL Type, Fleece Serial number, random AH, was set at 7ah instead of 70ah. No wonder it thinks the battery is almost flat 😂 AmpHours now corrected, battery serial number +1 and graphed. Quick run around town and the stop/start is working perfectly! Moreso the charge rate looks more like it should (12.3v steady with ignition, dipped to 10.5v cranking, elevated to 14.3 running) now it knows its charging a 70ah battery, not a 7ah unit 🙄 Thanks for your help guys

Well this sounds like an absolute mess and gives us experienced and honest mechanics a terrible name!!! I very much hope you are not paying for an ecu! Not a penny. if you’re anywhere near north London I’d be happy to take a look for you. this is what it comes to when technicians are in the dealer network and some are only capable of replacing parts or following computer controlled fault finding, no ability to scope can networks, find spurious signals or trace a fault. if they thought there was a dodgy wire they could have temporarily ran an external wire for this to see if the fault returns over a week to disprove/prove their theory. and since when do you replace a loom for a broken wire??? Repair it to a Skoda approved standard! sounds more like they have no idea what they are doing.

Seen this type of spurious fault many times on different vehicles (HGVs), usually down to a module gone wrong, causes noise on the CAN network, which then messes everything else up. Gives the impression of multiple faults, in effect its only one fault, but hard to find. In my experience, ECUs are very rarely faulty, when they are there's nearly always evidence of water ingress. Only way to trace this kind of fault is to unplug each non-critical module one at a time, until the fault goes. This can only be done while the fault is 'live', it's a nightmare when it's an intermittent fault. Replacing a wiring loom or ECU should be an absolute last resort in my opinion.

Or they have every idea of how to fleece an unwary customer

I'm really annoyed with myself for taking other people's word that it was coded. Incidentally, the VAG specialist who condemned the first battery told me that these batteries didn't need to be coded in (after they condemned the new battery and fitted a replacement, I specifically asked them to make sure it was coded in). The auto-electrics specialist did find and fix a wiring fault, and re-coded the battery with a handheld tool rather than a scan tool. Just annoyed with myself that when I had use of VCDS the first time (to check the stop/start minimum voltage hadn't been fiddled) I didn't check the battery coding at the same time. Now, the original battery that was on the car when I got it that had been left flat for months, I assumed would be shot so replaced it. I charged it with a smart charger a few months ago. Checked it this morning and its still got 12. 1v in it, that *might* actually be still use able!

I cannot write the swear words in here, but try "un-duck-ing believable!" Last night I was going to link you to a thread I made about battery coding, but clearly you dusted off your VCDS cobwebs fast.

All those trouble for the sake of an idiot who set that as 7ah, I hate those people that they don't do a proper job.

🤣 No Not guilty this time Sep. That's way too tame for us over here .....! You all need to visit the Donegal Rally 16th to 18th June this year. That's all we will say at this moment in time except we will show a picture of "The Genie" over Letterleague. I

Good shout. Fuses 1 & 16 by the looks of it.

Also worth checking that the relevant fuses don't have corroded contacts or loose sockets in the fusebox.

I like it!

Absolutely no criticism implied. I'm a retired engineer so fully understand your preference for annual.

Air filter 6 years and 60k? Annual thanks. Same for pollen filter. Cost me a little over £20 for the pair for my Passat and took longer to look up how to get to them than actually doing the job. If you can change a light bulb you can change a dry filter in a car. Wet filters are a little more complex.

At least you know which "specialists" to avoid in the future.

My experience also. Never had a belt go south, only the tensioner or the water pump.

Mine was a company car, that i ended up buying, it was serviced to Skoda's service intervals and i did try getting Skoda to change the belt etc before i purchased it based on 100k miles, Skoda UK said its 6 years or 120k miles, this was in 2020. The belt was changed at 103k miles because the water pump failed, it was already fraying.. car was mainly used on longer DC and motorways, it did have stop start. Now it seems every 5 years or 50k....

Thanks. I see that now. At the time I was looking at that image I did not have the list of option codes so 1G1 meant nothing to me. It does now. it is a Dunlop tyre that is on the rim. I must assume it is the original. next time I have it out I will check the date code. As an aside, the spare tyre on my Jazz was unused (still had the pips on the moulding) and I contacted Bridgestone to see if I should change it. This is the reply I received. “Thanks for your mail, which has been passed to me for reply. For this space saver tyre, if the tyre has been stored in good condition and is displaying no signs of ageing then it should still be suitable for emergency use. However I would stress that space saver tyres are a temporary mobility solution and if used, should be changed for a full sized tyre as soon as possible, driving for a maximum of 50 miles at 50mph. As with any natural product, rubber does age and will become more susceptible to cracking as it does. The rate of ageing depends on how the tyre is stored and what it is exposed to. We cannot offer an official cut-off point at which a tyre should not be put into service but based on my own knowledge I would recommend changing a tyre of this type once it is 10 years from date of manufacture. I hope this helps, and if you need any more info, let me know. Best regards Pete Peter Moulding Lead Field Engineer Bridgestone UK Ltd”

Welcome. What are the Dealership doing about the ECU that was not required if it was not required? Where are you in the UK? Surely you would not have that Dealership involved in the repair. ? Did they take in excess of £300 for the diagnosis? Refund due there i suspect.

Earlier DSGs on the smaller engines (1.6 and below) suffered. Toot will no doubt be along with the details but I would avoid those. Worth going for the bigger engine with the wet DSG if it were me. Although it does sound like you survived with your MK2 DSG. I think you would struggle to find a 2.0 petrol that isn't a vrs though.

Quick update. The water pump was "hanging off". Hence noise and coolant loss. Fixed for £270 at a great independent specialist. Car feels great. Obviously a different issue. Apologies!

Thats what I did an flebay one and just changed the clear plastic.

Looks like it plugs into a non replaceable part shame

I'm confused @toot, response was to OP with Mk3 Scout.

Air filter is pretty simple DIY job on Mk3, I don't know if it is the same for MkIV - for the Mk3, the trick is to completely remove the filter air box - there are screws in the base securing the lid - simply not clever!

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Great news in the end and well done to you for finding it. 👍 12.1v is about 50% charge to Ring Automotive or 40% to VW. From my experience - I'm not an electrician, auto-electrician or VW specialist or specialist of any sort - just my decades of experience dealing with my neighbours 12v car batteries - a long low slow charge of the battery with an appropriate battery charger will get the most into it and out of it, 4 amp fine, 2 amp perhaps even finer. It will take longer but it will be better, might take 20+ hours to fully recharge so will need some things many don't carry much stock of, patience and time. I've revived a few "dead" batteries, had 2 failures so far, of course the others weren't dead, in the same way that a "good" battery often isn't when someone tells you it is, in my experience. Then obviously you want to keep an eye on the charged battery to see how well it holds that charge with self-discharge and with load, throwing it on the car for a while would give it a real world test and you've got all the equipment to monitor it now. Cheers.

I've never done mine annually on non-Skodas in the past but I do agree that 6 yrs/60k seems excessive. Wondering how easy it is to do in view of the long service interval......

For the oil sensor. Look at the oil pan. Its the only sensor there usually. Check for your rat damage. If not there you'll have to trace wires back until you find where... unless it'sjust coincidence and fault is the sensor...

S0053210020-Basic_equipment_-_FABIA__As_of__August_1999.pdf S0053240020-Basic_equipment_-_FABIA__As_of__August_2002.pdf Are the two diagrams, hence the check. Pages from S0053210020-Basic_equipment_-_FABIA__As_of__August_1999.pdf

0156 is the latest for your 01xx series hardware. It's probably a hardware fault that they won't like admitting to, they/you could try to load firmware again, but I am doubtful it will fix things. There are 02xx and 03xx versions for the newer hardware.

Vehicle - active info display from the menu in the bottom left. Will look like 2 circles you can scroll through

Just a thought, you say no difference in reading with the hose on or off, that's quite a narrow bore hose, could it be blocked?

Yeah, exactly my confusion when trying to establish a clear definition of the belt change. Some top advice from everyone, as always, to just change it anyway. out of interest what was the change/updates at 17my ?

That green chart of generalisations was from 2020. The DSG is not @ 4 years, and only at 40,000 miles if not a DQ200 with no oil change or a DQ381 with recommended / schedule of 80,000 miles. The blue one is 2021. We are now on 2023 and prices are On application. The Cam Belt Quotations can be all over the place. TDI with belt, tensioners & Water pump. 1.4 TSI, cheaper, just belt and bits, 1.0 TSI similar, 1.5 TSI longer labour time and some ridiculous quotes from £750- £900+ Service Desk staff need asked the question with the answer illustrated below the blue chart.

Exactly so Lady E; they are almost exactly the same colour as NATO formation marker lights on aircraft, known as slime lights for the colour.

undoubtedly the greatest threat to Skoda is Skoda themselves. My first was 13 years ago and the customer experience was a revelation, dealers who were interested, honest and had a real “ can do” approach. The cars were well built, reliable and durable, OK not perfect, but were excellent value. My faith in VW group product was derived from 60k miles a year for nearly 20 years, during which the VW, Audi and Skoda cars stood up to the punishment far better than the Vauxhall, Volvo and BMW models we ran. We’re now faced with unsound engineering, substandard materials and above all, an attitude from dealers and Skoda customer service that is very much “can’t do”. My current Kodiaq has been troublesome, I could live with that, but an expectation of the dealer network that they’d be willing to resolve issues is hopelessly misplaced and after more than 20years of almost continuous VW group ownership, this will be the last. The need for something with at least 2000kg towing capacity limits choice of Japanese product so something Korean is now on the cards.

Pleasant sunset this evening and very thick ice at Rufford Abbey lake........

I have posted two images/screenshots (see below) which give an idea about this. According to Haynes manual, it's at 72 months (6 years) and According to the Skoda Servicing chart, it's at 60 months (5 years) or 50K miles (whichever comes first) In the Haynes manual, they say "it is strongly recommended that the interval be reduced as suggested, especially for vehicles used intensively, e.g. short journeys or stop-start driving. This explains why it is better to change the timing belt at 50K miles rather than waiting 72 months, because, I believe the Octavia MK-III cars many of you have are equipped with automatic stop-start when moving in slow traffic or near colour/traffic lights. It is fair to assume that each stop-start would add additional stress on the timing belt compared to a scenario where you drive on the motorway (constant momentum/torque in the engine). I couldn't trust Marshal Skoda Northampton and the expertise of their mechanics even though they gave the service history of the car. Because they had missed or ignored the manufacturer's recommendations to perform certain services/maintenance work at the right time/mileage before they sold the car to me. Instead, they have postponed them until the next year when I come to get the car serviced under the service plan they sold to me. Ignoring changing the brake fluid, DSG fluid and Timing + Water pump as per their own service/maintenance chart is unacceptable. They didn't at least recommend that to me at the time of the sale (at 54000 miles), maybe thinking that I would ask for a discount for all the maintenance work due at that mileage (Please refer to the second image in Green). Then in the next year when I went to claim the first service of the service plan I bought from them, their dealership garage tried to rip me off saying that I must get these done immediately and gave me a huge quotation. Those prices were more than double the prices given in this Green colour chart, but I had no idea about the actual prices then. Without thinking much, I asked them to change the brake fluid and DSG fluid and I paid for those. Since they told me I would have to leave the car at the garage for 2 more days to change the timing belt, I drove off that day with the intention of returning to their garage a few days later to get the timing belt changed. That's when I started to study the vehicle and service/maintenance intervals! Thanks to the people on this forum, I learnt how Marshal Skoda Dealership & Garage in Northampton deceive people!! What I paid so far was double the price compared to another Authorised VW Garage in Milton Keynes. Even for the timing belt change, they quoted me £900+. So, I got it done at a local garage (with very honest, non-pushy people) for about £500. The Timing Belt + Water Pump Kit was Gates Powergrip whereas Marshal Skoda Dealership Garage claims that they use OEM parts. But I do not know if I could actually trust Marshal Skoda Dealership and the level of attention their mechanics pay. They sold me the car at 54000 miles...according to their own service/maintenance chart, the Brake Fluid, DGS Fluid and Timing Belt should have been charged at 50000 miles. But they didn't even recommend that I should immediately get those done, probably just because they thought I would ask for a discount.

Same here.

You will need to determine if it has damaged the wires from the sensor and repair them. If you’re unsure of how, I’d suggest a trip to a independent garage, but others on here may be willing to give more detailed guidance.

Sorry to hear that, but it is an issue. So you may need to repair this wiring, or run 2-3 new wires to "bypass" the damaged area.

Thanks everyone. I was only able to get low tack duct tape at short notice. It'll keep me going for a few days until I get helicopter tape or similar. I have two repair quotes now and just need to do the sums on an insurance claim and see how soon I can get it fixed.

Had a call from the dealer yesteday informing me that the car has arrived. Should pick it up on Monday 23rd Jan, all in all it has been just over a year between order and delivery.

Oh that eco mode - changes up early and lower revs putting more strain on bottom end of engine, maybe that translates to different stresses through the gearbox shafts? Could speculate all day tbh. Think it’s perfectly fine for cruising/flowing along, I tend to flick it to sport when getting to junctions so the car responds in a decent gear and then back to E/D afterwards.

Race blue is the best for me. Brilliant not screeming color

Not sure if the mk2s are similar but I would guess. Depending on what you go for (and I cant advise you on what would and wouldn't have unfortunately) the car you are looking at may have a solid rear beam or it may have independent rear suspension. Its common on rear independent suspension for flatspot wearing on the rear tyres, partly due to suspension design and partly due to the concentric adjustment bolt being rusted and seized as VAG install them dry. Can often hear it after 40 miles per hour, can sound like a helicopter. All mk3s suffer a bit with road noise but its not horrendous. Knocking or creaking lock to lock could suggest front topmounts are on their way out. Check for damp carpets, especially if it has a panoramic roof. Some older cars are starting to show signs of water pooling in rear doors because of dirt in the drain holes or the seals have expanded.

I see. This would be very much easier to do if you could see the thing disassembled first. Just pulling isn't going to work without damaging something then. I thought perhaps the hook of the tool was to just pull the vent out forwards without having to tug on the louvres.

Good to see you have narrowed it down to what you are after. I did the same and then went looking having had a mk2 1.9tdi estate for 12 years from new. I'd echo the comments about checking the coolant reservoir for a split silca bag. Also get the engine up to temperature and put the blowers on high temp... if its not blowing hot the silica bag has split and blocked the matrix and a dealer will charge 2k to flush and fix the system. Those with a silica bag have "mit silicat" printed on the expansion tank but when mine got replaced the main dealer swapped it with a one without the silica bag under the used car warranty. I bought the car with 29k on the clock in the may so never noticed the heater issue until the winter but luckily within the 12month warranty window. I'd also want a full size spare, I kept the one from my mk2 as it was a similar size rolling circumference but on a 16inch rim. Check the one you have in your mk2 and keep it if you can. The main dealer I used said that wouldn't affect the part ex value on mine coz it was so old and off to auction . Depending on age also look for apple /android car connectivity. My 2016 was on the transition year so car play wasn't activated as standard but can be done for about £140 via main dealers to cover the software licence cost. I haven't bothered to do that. Cheers

Very simple job to replace expansion header tank for one without Silikat - provided the original 'teabag' has not already split. As @Stook says, check the colour of the present coolant for discolouration. There was an issue with DSG and the early 1.5 ACT combination (Kangaroo) but that should have been resolved with a software update. I am very happy with my EA211 1.4 TSI.

Avoid any Octavia Mk3 with a coolant expansion tank that has the words "Nit Silikat". Look carefully in the expansion tank for any signs of rust coloured crap. If the coolant isn't bright pink, run a mile...

If you decide on pulling the fuse, it's fuse ZC65 10A. Behind the glovebox. Bottom right corner of the fuse holder. If I come across a solution to turn on the 'memory' for driving modes like for the lane assist, I'll let you know!