Leaderboard

So I won a Fabia vrs off darkside developments, Big spec diesel Power Figures 332.7bhp & 445Ft/lbs - With Nitrous (50 Jet) 307.1bhp & 400Ft/lbs - Diesel Only Engine GTD2872VRK Billet Hybrid with Vacuum Conversion Darkside Developments Turbo Kit with Tubular Stainless Manifold/Downpipe Darkside Straight through Stainless Exhaust System Darkside Ported + Dimpled Head with bigger valves Rosten H-Beam Rods ARP Mains Studs Darkside Race Camshaft 1.9 8v Headstud Kit Uprated valve springs Firad PD Race 120% Injectors Universal Front Mount Intercooler Custom Darkside Hardpipe Kit Darkside 57mm EGR Delete Darkside Front Mount Oil Cooler AEM Cone Filter Darkside Custom TIP Pipe 6 BAR MAP Sensor Darkside Custom Remap + Hardcut Limiter Wizards of NOS Dry Nitrous Kit (50 Jet) Performance Aluminium Radiator HyperKuhl Super Coolant Fass Lift Pump Snow Performance Water Methanol Kit Snow Performance Solenoid Machined Pistons Coated Pistons Transmission 02M 6 Speed Gearbox Darkside Single Mass Conversion with Sachs SRE Clutch Quaife 02M Limited Slip Differential 4th Gear Support short shifter Chassis Vibratechnic Engine and Gearbox Mounts KW Variant 3 Fully Adjustable Coilovers Adjustable Drop Links Powerflex Bushes with Black Race Series on Wishbone Brakes Porsche Caliper Upgrade Brembo 312mm Front Brake Discs & Track Pads Brembo 256mm Rear Brake Upgrade RBF600 Brake Fluid Wheels and Tyres 17" 2Forge ZF1 Wheels in Gloss Black 215/40/17 Yokohama A052 Tyres Exterior Bumper opened for Air Flow Custom Headlights Plans are afoot mainly to clean it up to my standards, bodywork is pretty good both side sills were done a couple of years back, just a bit of rust coming through on bootlid. Nitrous is going to come off (scares me a little haha) and I’m in the process of tiding all the masses of wiring, as it’s had many additions over the years, nitrous wiring, water meth, boost gauge, sub in its past, some pics before I started my bits and pieces

A few of you might, know but I won a car and of course it’s a Skoda, started another build thread, at the moment I’m keeping both

It's quite some time since I updated this thread, so here goes. I've gotten used to the M3 and it is, as Steve Sutcliffe says, "a weapon". Astonishing performance from a paltry 3 litres and a rather podgy kerbweight. On a rolling start, alongside my beloved M4 (F82 model), in the dry and on a smooth road, in relatively warm weather.....I doubt the M3 (G80) would be much quicker, but everywhere else, in every other condition, the M3 is quicker...much quicker. It's simply nuts quick, owing to its traction and ability to hide its rather lardy weight. Cornering grip is great, turn in is superb, body control is nigh-on absolute and the brakes are actually pretty good. Build quality is almost faultless, with high quality materials everywhere. The ability to surprise 'performance' model Teslas is great fun (they believe a quick 0-60 makes their cars sports cars....not to mention the 0-60 figures quoted are with a 1 foot roll out). It also delivers moderately good mpg, considering its weight and performance and has plenty of room inside and in the boot. Even the looks, something I quite liked by the time I owned one and has grown over time, are praised by more people than any other car I have owned or driven (? Surprised me, given the initial, almost universal hatred of the design). And yet... I miss my old M4. The M4 was a car that tried to kill you basically. Wet weather was a tippy toe exercise, mid-corner bumps were interesting and you had to think before you flexed your toes. Cross-country and on a rough road it wasn't a fast car, it was a lairy, heart stopping, fun car. I loved it. It has surprised me, if I'm honest. The general motoring press has gone nuts for the new model, something they didn't always do with the previous version (all except Chris Harris who loved the previous incarnation more than the current one). Don't get me wrong, the M3 is a brilliant car and a wonderful thing to own, I realise I'm very, very lucky, but still.... It's odd really, I recognise the car is better in almost every way and by quite some margin, but to enjoy it properly on public roads, you need to be travelling as escape velocity speeds. The only things I can quantifyably point as dislikes, are the steering wheel (too fat) and the low speed ride (seriously jiggly, even on the softest setting). All the systems work, as does the remote phone app stuff, the interior is a triumph (there are still buttons and knobs) and as a tool to drive quickly in, it's almost peerless in its class.....and yet.... I keep looking at F types Jags, the P450 in particular. A car that is much slower, less well built, doesn't handle as well, has much crappier software and infotainment system stuff. It's thirstier and will cost more to run. It does have enormous character though, that dinosnore V8, the cruder suspension (at least in its handling), some weird design decisions.....and yet....those looks and that sound. So, go figure. My old M4 (F82) I would rate as a 8/10 car and the M3 a 9.5/10 car and yet I miss the inferior model perhaps it is my age, or the fact that cars are probably becoming too fast to enjoy properly on the public roads (although overtaking is still a hoot). I've always thought that true beauty has to have flaws to reach that elevated status and I think that I'm coming to the same conclusion with cars. A perfect car isn't necessarily the car you want, it's just the car you think you want. Disclaimer: I do still love my M3, I'm just trying to put into perspective that it is so accomplished, some of the character that can make a car special is lacking imho. In wet weather I do not necessarily agree with that view of course I think only Mustang drivers know the true nervousness of the M3/4 (F80 series models) in damp conditions

They only put CO2 in a brochure, because a tax regime is daftly solely based on it. If anyone is serious about emissions (and clearly Chancellor isn't) would be basing tax on a combination of CO2, NOx and Particulates.

Great haul from the scrappie today, glove box Stereo complete central trim Drivers panel with headlight surround gearshift surround also picked up a airbag deactivation switch that goes above stereo I’m hoping I can wire that in to be my water meth indicator, and I’m going to hide button for boost gauge out of site too black bonnet hinge bolts as I’ve removed the spacers. Found a Uber rare cassette player too from early Fabia for some retro goodness so hopefully inside Will look 100% oem got lots of wiring conduit and fabric tape too to hide all the wiring. Looking forward to a good bit of time on her tomorrow 😀

A thousand apologies to anyone interested in this - life got in the way of monitoring this advert for a while, and I seem to have missed at least one notification. Sorry! Some updates: The car is now MOTed and taxed, so test drives are now possible. I've also moved the car to my home in South Wales - Newport to be precise, about 1 mile from the M4. I work from home most days so can be quite flexible if anyone wants to have a look. I been vague on price so far, to test the water (and I'm honestly not sure what it's worth), but that just seems to have put people off. Realistically, I can't expect to get dealer-prices for a private sale. I estimate that a dealer would be asking 2.5-3k, so I'm thinking £2000 ONO? Hope my long silence hasn't lost me all credibility!

First things were to change the wheel, so fitted a mk2 Fabia Monte Carlo one in, also the Audi 6 speed gear knob was recycled from the citigo, and fitted some facelift Fabia black seats, as the drivers seat original was rocking about I think the height adjuster mechanism was broken. Detinted the front side windows as I like it all legal.

The paint was as the sprayer left it 1 year ago and when you inspected it. Now it is what it is. A repainted panel with the masked edge peelling. That was a professional that painted it then, maybe just not the best, and you can be no more certain the professional that redoes it will not have it looking just the same another year further on. Give the person that sold you the car a chance to see what it looks like a year on because they know who does their painting. Maybe they give a toss and will deal with it or maybe they will care not a jot. I was a car painter.

Currently trying to mentally prepare myself for potentially a 0400 start to leave from here, get to Kirkcudbright to join the convoy, and get there for opening! This living in Scotland carry on isn't all it's cracked up to be

I've had 2 petrol blues, 1 emerald green and just ordered a Sportline in Phoenix orange! the blue colours are quite good at hiding the dirt though.

Yes mines DSG. Only had a small drive home, one blip off the line and one on a slip road, but def notice the extra pull. Not gonna help the mpg for a while...

202 only does front speakers, as it's from the Classic. 502 is a tape with CD abilities. Was an added cost option that almost no-one specced.

Is it a 502?! If so, got another spare???

welcome -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/449490-noise-insulation/

It's a combined fuel & vacuum pump (tandem pump) for the brake servo and any other vacuum feeds. You can buy a seal kit for them.

205/55/R16 94V were fitted.

As far as I can ascertain Trafficmaster contracted directly with Global Radio to broadcast on their “local” station networks Capital and Heart. The Trafficmaster service has never been part of the competitive tendering process run by Ofcom, which is solely for the nationally available bandwidth on Classic. That contract has been won by itis/INRIX for at least the last two tendering periods. So it’s not a contractual problem, it’s entirely a financial decision to stop the Trafficmaster service.

Had it done today, quite good results, pre and post! Been running Tesco 99 for a while.

Not that easy to reinstate the service as Trafficmaster no longer have a contract to broadcast the information over the radio. I find it hard to believe that VAG etc did not know about the switch off.

At 1750 rpm speed is 80km/h. I think speed difference is around 3-4%. 252 km/h speedo is at 5500rpm (I looked at some videos I have). So, theoretically at 6300rpm it is 275-280 km/h real speed, 288km/h speedo. It is interesting your launch is at 3300rpm, mine is close to 4000rpm which is standard. Maybe it makes a difference. I see 60ft time is what makes difference. 1.84, I am struggling around 2.0s. 12.09 on 1/4 is fast, mine is 12.2-12.4s My tuner told me that 370-380 Stage 1 is not possible on our cars, which have the same engine as Golf 7R. Golf 7.5R with 7 speed gearbox, yes. Something is different. Intake elbow is most restrictive, I think filter does not ad 5-10hp, maybe 2-3 top. And standard airbox is sufficient even for Stage 2. For some increase in power you need either intercooler or downpipe, or preferable both. One thing is what kind of equipment you have in a car, because it brings weight. You have standard cloth seats I see, heated as well. Mine are leather ones, with cooling fans, 220V socket, virtual pedal, heated windshield (as yours), 19" summer wheels, DCC, so probably gained some weight compared to yours. Weight counts. You can just look at the Golf 7R and see how fast it is with the Stage 1. I have measured mine and it is 1720kg with me (85kg) and 1/4 of tank. On other scale was 1751kg with fuel on reserve and guy probably had 100kg. So, 90% of fuel just car is 1670-1690kg. I have been on 1/4 race weekend ago. Track is little bit slippery at the start and my ET time was around 12.9, but I tried to put octane booster and removed spare wheel, tools and some stuff from the boot (30kg maybe) and time went down to bellow 12.8. consistently. Also on training session every race was slower and slower, due to heat soak. So intercooler would be beneficial for this. On my Dyno graph, technician did not pushed in high rpm in first run. Second one he pushed more and third one too, but intake temperature just went up. I assume it is close to 355hp, as second run it did 351hp. This is done on our "100octane" fuel in Serbia, which is crap.

The way I read the filler cap table is : Standard load 2.1/2.1bar Front/Rear. Eco 2.4/2.4bar Front/Rear. Heavy load 2.5bar Front / 3.2bar Rear. Hoping that is correct. I had mine inflated to ECO pressures for about a year but noticed that the centre track was wearing more quickly that the edges ( over-inflation ) so I now keep them on Standard pressures. Generally only me in the car with little or no extra load in the boot.

WOW Email back again and say will they be letting all Audi dealers know that they are selling used cars with now limited functionality

Just sent this reply - Dear Richard. Thank you for confirming the situation with Audi and other VAG Group vehicles. I guess the same will apply to Honda, Mazda, Chrysler, and Vauxhall and possibly other manufacturers vehicles. I was considering updating to a 16/17 plate A6 but as this will also mean no RDS-TMC it will mean a visit to the Volvo dealers instead as theirs and other cars using INRIX will still have this feature for another eight years. Kind regards - Neil.

The Dyno graph for stage 1 ECU and TCU before fitting the sport air filter, 100+ petrol used. I was amazed to see that stock it delivered ~300hp while the producer states 280hp. That alone was impressive. Now with the new air filter I suppose there should be between 5-10hp increase and maybe some Nm of torque which will lead to ~355hp. To bad I haven't fitted the filter prior to tune. I've seen similar cars going all the way up to 370-380hp with stage 1 but with similar or worse 0-100 or 0-200 times. My tunner kept in safe margins and realiability was also important. Also fuel consumption have improved after tunning, dropped down with ~0,5l urban and 1l extra urban. The best I'm getting now is around 12l/100km in city and 6,7l/100km outside, trying to be as economical as possible. If I drive it normal it's around 12-13 in city and 7-8 outside. Happy with these figures to.

@Alie there are three things that contain oil... Front six speed gearbox, rear haldex coupling and also rear differential. What exactly are you trying to drain and refill?

I like it

But.... but, without that dead ahead marker, how are you going to know which way is forwards? 😇 Cool car 😎 G

Current state of play , all dash panels out and going to get some more to get rid of all the holes, Nitrous has been removed along with all the redundant wiring, so I can now tidy up and place in conduit so it will be a lot neater and nothing on display. Now nos is out I’m going to place the water meth switch in the ashtray so everything will be hidden. Controller will still be in glovebox the only thing visible will be the led for the water meth as you need to see it to know it’s working

Yes, it is very quick for stage 1 with only an air filter as hardware upgrade. For such a big car it's impressive, a real sleeper. I've used Michelin Primacy summer tires with dimensions 235/45/R18, around quarter of fuel tank, no other items in the car, morning, decent weather conditions, quite low traffic. The stock turbo it's known to not be the best, hope it will survive. I don't plan to use it to the max tho, top speed pulls are rare and not for a prelonged time. I've also recorded the above mentioned, below some links: 0-100 in the regular ~4.3s 0-100 in the lowest achieved 4.1 And the top speed attempt. It went to 284 and as far as I know and felt it would have gone faster, not sure how much faster. I approximated the 290-300 gps value, but even 285 is more than enough for this car. Maybe not. Do you have a link with gear ratios and speed values for DQ250? I suppose it is related to what the engine would be able to offer regarding the rpm. Mine is able to change gear even at 7k rpm in lower gears, and on this top speed attempt I've reached around 6300rpm. I also had an top speed attempt in which my rear wiper was flying, I had to stop and put it back on. I've returned the Dragy tool, since it will be no longer used, but I do trust it for measuring performance.

It is normal that they do not know or care or love / cherish the customers and their habits and use of the vehicles. So set your own tyre pressures because you know how you use your car, and reset the TPMS.

For Stage 1 it is pretty quick. Not sure how heavy it is, what equipment you have. Mine is usually 4.4 0-100 and 4.2 best, with 15.5 0-200 best, but usually 16s. I tried once to pull past 250, fortunately I had some gps app running. As my tuner said limiter is removed i thought it will show more than 260, so I was surprised it does not go beyond 260. I did not pushed it to the limit, since it was long bend and not so smooth asphalt and also my rear bumper wants to fly away, since plastic holders in the corners are broken. When I stopped corner of bumpers were 10-15cm opened on both sides, it would for sure fly away with more speed and rear wiper arm was raised. But top speed for dq250 is not 300km/h, it would need to go to past 6700rpm in 6. gear which is not possible since you have power drop earlier than 6000. I think 285 gps it top, you will not make anything more except going downhill. And you need to be careful with this IS38 trying to make top speed as it becomes really hot.

👍 i havent had chance yet, need to get the big laptop out 😂

http://nestrans.org.uk/biketrial http://lowemissionzones.scot/news/aberdeen-launches-e-cargo-bike-scheme-following-ptp-support Aberdeen & Dundee & even Edinburgh are pretty perfect for e-Cargo bikes (weather can be an issue) as the road networks are an issue and the LEZ,s are coming in. There are many in Glasgow that need to get them now since the LEZ came in yesterday and they are saying they can not do their deliveries or work. They should be at a Park & Ride location ready for trades people to park their van and get their toolkit and stuff transferred into and off into the city centre. For many it should be Bipper / Kangoo EV vans sitting in those Low Emission Hubs ready for hire by the hour or day etc. 'Arnold Clark' could have their EV vans or Estate cars available to hire. 'Simply clever'. Some are just not that savvy.

My tuppence worth? Lets say you have a valid claim and lets say the dealer says " sorry, not my problem ", what are your options? Even if the claim were legit, it'll cost you as much money to pursue it than it would be to repair the car. It looks to be an easy fix for a repair shop. Time factor? If you'd paid for the repair itself then yes, consumer laws would apply, but as I understand it you didn't buy a repair, you bought a 6 year old car? If the garage had made a repair without declaring it then again you may have a case for mis-selling, but the fact you knew the car was damaged weakens your position even further. Sounds to me like you're going to have to rely on goodwill from the dealer. Toot is 100% right, at least inform the dealer but whatever you do, don't go in feet first making accusations and stating your roghts or you can forget sympathy from them. Be as nice as you can because they hold all the cards.

The man from Audi is ringing me today with an update. Thing is that the lack of TMC on VAG Group and other major manufacturers used vehicles will not be a good selling point in their showrooms. Why buy a VAG car and then have to use a phone or Tom Tom etc for traffic updates when you can get say a Volvo or a Ford on which the service is still received by the built in unit. If they refuse to fix the issue then this fact needs spreading far and wide.

Thanks I've order some pipe fuel hose pipe on the way.

It means Skoda had to have an EVOLUTION because VW's defeat devices and cheating on tests had to end and they have to get engines that could give the results required gor the WLTP & RDE2 and not just by using 0w 20 FS IV oil. If the actual emissions in the real world at colder ambient temperatures is the same as under the test regimes are genuine is another question.

I'd say that your steering sounds similar to mine & you have the same sized wheels & tyres fitted as I do. It has a slightly none directional feel to it on longer runs or mine does, anyway. I'm generally happy with the 16" wheels to be honest, one of the reasons I'd bought my car. I prefer a slightly softer suspension set up. I've owned many Astra's previous to this car, too, but on a whole I'd say the Octavia feels far better put together & up to now has been more reliable, too.

What adapter did you buy? It MUST include a canbus adapter, either for no buttons on steering wheel or with buttons on steering wheel. Should be a black box thingy with a sticker that says canbus, maybe a little status led inside too. If it doesn't, i would return whatever adapter halfrauds gave you and call a few car audio shops. Key words: skoda, aftermarket radio, wiring adapter canbus. If they're worth their salt they will sell you exactly the wiring loom need for about £20-30. Plus a fascia for £15-20 as well

I have the latest 2023 MY Superb Hatch 150 TDI EVO with DSG engine which is listed at 133g/km. This is a 'cleaner' engine than earlier variants which I believe includes double injection of Adblue but due to the way the emissions are now measured appears to be a higher polluting engine!

Just done a search on ebay - for used yeti armrest - 40 are returned, of which 17 are leather, 16x black & 1x brown. And that's without trying breakeryard, gumtree, fb marketplace etc. So wow yes impossible to get in the right colour....

I think discs (rotors) are different part (on gti will be probably higher quality), but they are exchangeable. both are 340 in front and 310 in back

Car has been returned 😁 Root caused was tracked back to the crankshaft pulley (which I've also seen referred to as the harmonic balancer) being in the wrong position which was causing juddering and vibration. Exact same issue that Twiz had with their car in this post: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/506382-12-tsi-running-rough-after-cambelt-change I've driven it a bit and sat it in neutral and ran through the revs and I can't pick up on any juddering or roughness now so I am satisfied that it is fixed @MB21 in relation to the really slight vibration that you can detect at 1200rpm still - I can detect something at that rev point too but like you it's exceptionally subtle and I don't think I would have noticed it were it not for the fact that after having this issue I'm hyper sensitive to anything relating to vibration or changes in engine noise. It's something that I am happy to put down to "that's just what the engine sounds like" and leave it at that though Fingers crossed for smooth driving for some time now!

It will be very useful to get access to the firmware file and to do the update by yourself, like a normal smartphone, OR to received it via OTA update. If not, the remaining option is a trip to your dealer and loose minimum half a day there 🙃

The VRS normally comes with lowered ride height, aka sports suspension...as standard...so not to be cofused with standard ride height. When you order a new VRS, you can sometimes tick a standard ride height box, if you don't want the lowered/sports suspension. If you input the 1JE build code into the "VW Codes Decoder", you will see that it means sports suspension, ie. lowered ride height. VW Codes Decoder 1JE = Rear sports shock absorption http://igorweb.org/equidec.aspx Apart from Bilstein B8, I suspect most other aftermarket shock absorbers for the Octavia MK3 are made for standard ride height...although many of these will also be sold for lowered suspension...as in you can bolt them on and it will pass an MOT. Note that the VRS has multi-link rear suspension, like the 4WD models. Lesser models don't have multi-link rear suspension. Cars with multi-link rear suspension use different rear shock absorbers.

Can you please confirm what end of the car you are working on, front or back? Haldex fluid is made for the Haldex coupling on the rear differential and is absolutely not suitable for the 6 speed transmission at the front of the car.

I would live without the contacts syncing if I would have the same option now. Android auto would do this for me in someway so I wouldnt bother too much now.

Bit of an update with 2023 costs - cheapest I found was £545 including pump, most quotes were around the £630-660 mark, dealer was £695. I tried to get some sense out of Skoda UK about the 5 years recommendation for replacement as it doesn't mention a 5 year timescale anywhere in maintenance manuals, just after 210,000kms. Their standard cop out response as to why the UK recommendation was different to the rest of the world recommendation in published maintenance literature was, the UK maintenance department decided 5 years due to 'safety reasons'.. they couldnt/wouldnt give any evidence of UK belts breaking prior to 210,000kms. clear.as.mud.

I've got the same thing in my boot but can't work out what it is. It sounds like something is flapping up and down, almost as if the hatch is not closed tightly or the boot liner is not completely flat.