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Children of Mike.

Rather irrelevant, but the front styling is something I'd not spend ages gazing at with love.

Charged to 100% for setting off early. Tyres scrubbed in and then increased a bit to 36 psi front and back. Happy with the car and getting used to it. It took hours getting settings right for me and quite a while during the hours of darkness with the interior lighting setting stuff that is just about stylee to off and keeping important settings on screens. Even the least regen setting was too much and the full regen ridiculous compared to anything i have drive including other electric MINI,s. I am used to nipping on and coasting and not coming to a halt so quickly. Now i have had it for a proper blast it actually works great without touching the brake pedal, but it does have the brake lights on lots, well at every deceleartion. I have charged 90% to 99/100% 5 times since getting it just to see how long it takes if needing to really have it full. Well it is 60 minutes pretty much on a 7 or 11 kW AC or a 43AC / 50 DC charger. Something only for doing if not hanging about waiting to get to.

You could secure and seal the joint using stainless steel lockwire or maybe even a tywrap. The sealing is done by the O ring seal, the clips just hold the joint together against axial pressure loading which is minimal on such a small cross sectional area.

You see Enyaqs a lot in TdF and not just on short stages. An Enyaq is more than capable of approx 120 miles of longest stage. I'd say maybe another 50 miles for running about / liaison at start end of stage making the cars plenty capable. Skoda only provide official race organiser's cars, team cars are based on team sponsorship. My understanding is that as the specially modified Superbs wear out, they are replaced with an Enyaq. Neutral service cars provided by the ASO (race owners) and sponsored by Skoda / Shimano are Skoda Octavias. The reason for this is Enyaqs are too tall for getting bikes off the centre of the roof rack quickly. It is about being fit for purpose, same as using VW cabrio for doctors car. The cars used by the race organisers will be a sponsor to British Cycling (possibly through Vardy) and likely not coming from Skoda directly. If sponsored through the dealership network, the cars will be whatever is available, e.g. nearly new cars and demos. I haven't paid much attention to the cars, are LHD or RHD? RHD will confirm UK sourced. Given what I've said regarding Enyaqs in the TdF, I don't agree. Unlikely it would have it's range crippled. In general EVs do better in an urban setting than on a fast road. The reason is regenerative braking, where a lot of energy is recovered to the battery while braking. Zooming around the streets of Glasgow would be fine, hard acceleration followed by hard REGEN braking will not cripple range and an Enyaq will certainly have enough range for the 170 mile road race.

@waitpet yes, the parking sensor (when it worked!) worked with the usual picture on the screen. DAB aerial? I bought one from AliExpress which stuck to the screen, worked absolutely fine and cost £10. The RNS315DAB is now in one of your Yetis and continues to give excellent service.

Have you checked the transport blocks have been removed. They fill in some of the from suspension to reduce the body movement in transport. Some dealers forget to remove them. They are usually in the front which would explain why the car feels floaty round corners as the rear is softer (not preferable in a front drive car). Would also explain why you feel small bumps as the front will be too stiff.

my Superb 220 (TSi) MY17 has been averaging 8.4L / 100 km, over the past 6 yrs plus. i regularly get between 750 to 820 km per full tank, using 98 RON. most i've done is 984km on a single tank, with 0 left on the Range indicator. with a Stg 1 ECU + DSG tune, i'm no light-footed driver!!

That reminds of this

Rolling shot of Gandalf on a Euro Club cruise, with the remnants of a P-plate (plastic) that fell off the back of a motorbike & smashed into the grille!!

VANOS is not relevant here - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VANOS

The app is dogpoo. But I find it easier taking the SD card out and plugging it into the laptop anyway. I did use the footage to assist police in convicting someone driving like a turd so I can't complain about it.

Is it always the most efficient ? Mini has lowish range and efficiency techniques even more important therefore ?

I have a small Garmin in one car. Easy to fit yourself, and as Dooge said it's tiny and unintrusive. It might be just my setup, but it doesn't work great with the app on my phone. Last week I fitted a Nextbase camera in the other car (now the boy has passed his test!). It's bigger but the interface seems better and easier to use. Not really tested it much though. They're really very easy to fit yourself. Glue the camera up, and just push the cable between the headlining and windscreen, then down inside the a-pillar. You can push it into the gap or pull the plastics back, but just make sure it doesn't interfere with any airbag that may be in there. Then connect the cable to an earth and pick a fuse for the live to connect to in the fusebox using one of those piggyback connectors.

If you pull on the shaft and there is the stub of one bolt in the flange then it will jam, they are fitted bolts in close tolerance reamed holes. Refit the bolt opposite or better still all the other bolts but leave them loose, then pull away and/or give it the good news with your hammer of choice, that way it will withdraw in alignment without jamming, once it has moved a little it will come off easily with the bolts removed.

Hi OllieVRS, It could be faulty, mine was genuine when I did mine about 8 years ago. Trevor

You sure did choose a good title for this thread!

Well as you have successfully claimed from the TP insurers it is now a no fault claim it shouldn't make any difference but as you have seen that is not the case, they practically give away this protected NCB because after a claim they have you by the ghoulies, they won't reduce your NCB so they stuff the policy up to the level that other insurers would quote you for having a potential claim against you. You and I both know that there will not be a claim against you and that your "no fault claim" has been settled in full by the TP's insurer but they game the system by taking up to 18 months to update the shared data system. So you get quotes elsewhere and have to answer "Yes" to "have you had any claims in the last..........", in any case they can see that a claim was submitted, your quote from them will then have no NCD other than perhaps an introductory one. As much as I hope it not to be true but I suspect any quotes you get from other insurers will be higher than your renewal one. It's the second shafting you get after allowing the insurers to take away your vehicle allegedly to their repairers. I got burned some 40 years ago with protected NCB and will never have it now even if its free, I will go to another insurer and pay more! I also only have TPO insurance to avoid all the grief of dealing with the sharks other than directly with a TP's insurer if they are at fault and through a solicitor that they end up paying for. Luckily nobody has crashed into me in the last 15 years.

No, afraid not. I had a Golf TDI 170 as well, at the time, so I was pretty sure they'd fit. I bought a set c/w with calipers from a breaker, then had them blasted and powder coated. I got them from Wigan VAG Parts who I purchased an Audi door from previously. Owned by a guy called Danny Hill who's always been very helpful and great to deal with. https://www.facebook.com/vagpartswigan

It will do. There are groups of TMC providers within those are the providers themselves. In the UK Inrix and what was Traffic Master, it's the latter that has stopped broadcasting in the UK only, Inrix is still broadcasting. One is in one TMC group the other is in the other group. The solutions on the thread shift it to a different TMC group, one that contains Inrix which is still broadcasting. Obviously, the manufactures have deals with the TMC providers funded by the licence they paid at the time. Inrix is like tuning into Radio Luxembourg of old, plays better pop music than BBC Light radio 😍. Possibly not a good example.

Might say more about the VW/SEAT/SKODA etc EV technology in that the VAG has fired a third of its EV line workers and cut the shifts back on the production. VW, particularly, has had so many problems with its EVs, sales have not been what they hope as cars like the TESLA Model Y are light years ahead of what VAG are producing but at least they know it and are now trying to get much more involved with Chinese/TESLA production technology so they can even survive as a brand another 5 years which is doubtful as VAG are about 200B Euros in debt and need another 200B to get to a place where they can even compete with TESLA, SAIC etc. Sad for the proud people of the Czechia Republic, Slovakia etc that the automotive future of VAG has so badly been handled, as their CEO said the roof is on fire and they need to find 11B urgently. NOt sure TESLA would have such an interest in cycling, many UK car dealers will go to the wall as the model of UK dealerships in a declining one, maybe Kia might do directly but I would have thought they have their own battles to fight for survival too.

Hi Trevor, thanks for the reply. I changed the dealer code and country code, but it didn't seem to affect anything. I'm actually able to enable Cruise Control via Coding -> Long Coding -> 06, then selecting Bit 1. The coding is accepted, but then I get an error code in Engine talking about DTC Memory. I looked up the 005699 code on Ross-Tech's site and it has a special note regarding my engine, 'When found in 2.0l TFSI (AXX/BPY/BWA etc.), check Steering Wheel Electronics for Cruise Control related Fault Codes and general Cruise Control Functionality' which led me to the code in the Steering module in the photo below, 00895. I now believe the TOPRAN branded cruise control stalk I bought is faulty. I'll try get a less-crappy brand one and see if that works.

That's what it says in my profile, so it must be, ehh....? 😄

On my 11/2016 Octy after 147k km all original shocks still are dry. Looks ok, taking in mind "nice" Latvian roads.

Let me guess, you had protected NCB?

I see a mountain being made from a molehill. I found this to be very straightforward. I purchased a set of Mk5 Golf GTI / GT Sport 170 TDI caliper carriers and a set of 312mm discs and some new pads. Initially I fitted EBC Spotties and Greenstuff pads. Unfortunately, they only lasted 12k miles, no doubt because I'm the last of the late brakers and probably because I've set XDS to 'Hard". The car now has drilled Brembo discs and their HP pads on the front. I've just fitted Pagid discs and pads on the rear and that has also helped with pedal feel and stopping power.

Most important: Push the Menu Button for like 10 seconds and extract the content of the zip in the root of the sd card.

Feel free to message me with your VIN if you want to know what brakes/carriers/calipers the car was built with.

Hello and welcome!

Re about rattling in drivers door, it will be the door latch cable. Buy some dodo mat and felt tape and go at it. Also boot spare wheel well seems to take a lot of the background noise out. With these 2 done you'll notice most of the actual road noise comes from the front wheel arches and there's not much you can do about that

I've done oem with eddie_nl. Not super hard, but needs some weird brackets for the sensors to actually fit like from the factory. There are markings on the inside of the bumper for parking sensors, tow bar and exhaust cutout. Basically go to lllparts, use the diagram from your car and year from there and buy all the cheap bits, then ebay to buy the module and the actual sensors. Bumper and most of the boot trim need to come off, the oem module screws are on the left hand side in the arch somewhere, close to a ground point fortunately.

When I was still in Southampton I went for lunch at a BT exchange in the area I was working in - Woolston exchange IIRC and there were four or five cars almost one after the other clamped by DVLA with untaxed vehicle stickers on the windscreen. IIRC cutting one off or using one without a license to do so is an offence.

Hi I’ve just bought a mk 3 Skoda Fabia Monte Carlo 1.0TSI 110BHP on a 2018 plate with full service history from Skoda. Great little car .

Sister to Isaac Hunt.

I somehow think the ebrake will apply automatically once the gearbox is in park if the car is parked on a slope. Maybe a sensor in the gearbox? At home the car is parked on the level & the ebrake is not activated when I pull away in the morning. At work on a slight slope it is.

I've done the 1000 to a tank with 20 mile range showing. I put a little over 70.5 litres in when I filled up. I think driven really carefully I might get between 1100 to 1200 miles on a tank, another reason why I chose a Superb.

Thanks for the responses. Have been into dealership (3 nails in tyres !! one repairable and 1 new tyre) They were very helpful re DSG issue. Offered to take vehicle in for a couple of days and drive it to try to get fault to occur. I will drive it with technician initially also. Hopefully it will reoccur. Then we might get to the bottom of the problem. Will let you know outcome. Grant

🤷‍♂️. I didn't assume anything. I asked. Apologies for disturbing you.

around town I get around 3.8 in winter and 4 to 5 in Summer on a long trip in winter again 3.5 is typiucal but in the summer around 4 is normal - heat pump 60

Will Kerr is his nom de plume, his real first name is Wayne 😄

Only if the boots were greased with expanding foam.

The 288x25mm and 312x25mm front brakes on the Yeti use the same brake calipers. So to convert from 288x25mm to 312x25mm just requires changing the front brake caliper carriers and the front brake discs. ATE front brake carrier for 312x25mm front brake discs 5N0615125 312x25mm front brake disc 1K0615301AA

Like most of us, you probably learnt very quickly why it was orange. Ouch.

Nope but I can send you link for MST2_EU_VW_ZR_P0480T. All others pls check your PM.

Quick update from the past few days. Today I enabled ESC Sports mode and ESC OFF in my car settings, this allows me to set the ESC/ASR System to Active/ESC Sport/ESC Off. Works fine. Cruise Control was also fitted with the new stalk working grand. Dealer clearly talking ****e when they say the retrofit "isnt compatible". If anyone wants to do so themselves drop me a DM and ill try help out.

Thank you for all the kind words. Ross (tech1e) asked me to post the pics on the Facebook group "Fabia Owners Club" and the response was great from all the people on there. First big show is "Rollhard", I didn't think the Fabia would be interesting enough for them to have on display, especially considering the level of other modified cars but here we are... Looks like it'll be on display on Sunday 6th August at Bicester Heritage. Can't wait.

They say a picture paints a thousand words so ............. Still jobs to do but it's the first drive in nearly 7 years so was quite nervous/emotional! Matt

My tuppence worth: When you are in an accident and it's defo the other party to blame, then you should not be at any loss. If you want to take other things in to consideration such as stress / injury etc then that's where those no win no fee type of companies come in to their own. But be under no illusion, they'll only get involved if there's a guaranteed profit in it for themselves. You ask is the insurance industry legal robbery? It could be if you let it. I think where people go wrong is understanding how the system works. The market value of your car ( i.e. selling it ) is very different from the buying price. If you've caused the accident or rather, if it's a 'fault claim' then you receive what the car is worth, i.e. the market value. If you're not at fault, then the 3rd party should be responsible for adding the seller's profit / overheads to get you back to the position you were in before the accident. It's not YOUR insurer who does that, it's the 3rd party insurer. If you have legal cover, they 'should' be doing that on your behalf. I never take legal cover because thru experience, I find it's their own interests in mind rather than yours, and I've ended up doing the chasing. When my car was wriiten off some years ago ( no fault claim ) and the insurer gave me the market valuation, I simply asked them to find me a car at that price. Easy peasy... no need for ombusman or anything like that, just get them to find a car for you at that price. They ended up asking me to submit several prices and I was given the average. They're claiming that back from the other party so unless it's a ludicrous figure, it's not a problem for them. Regarding hire cars and any additional costs you incur thru no fault of your own, then if you do not have legal cover thru your own insurer, claim that direct from the 3rd party insurer. There's no getting over the inconvenience of it all when something like this happens, but obtaining the right money for your loss and compensation is usually straight forward. You just have to be reasonable and show a willingness to be flexible about it.

Mod #3 Done

Covers are off! Kitchen is almost done, bit of decorating to complete then this thing WILL be getting finished. I have replaced the fuel pump relay under the dash, got all of the dash plastics back in and it did start and run just fine. I only ran it for a few mins so I will at some point get it run up to temperature and see if it dies again after 20 mins... Before that though I've got the intercooler off as I was unhappy with the fitment of it so that's next to be worked on then I can get the front end built back up, bumper on and finally get it off the stands. It will need MOT'ing obviously, last MOT was almost 7 years ago......