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This, is my 1999 Vauxhall Vectra 1.8 16v Arctic Special Edition (try saying that three times as fast) that I bought three weeks ago. It's very much a low mileage car, having just shy of 27,000 miles when I picked it up. Unlike my Fabia, I've no intention with deviating from the original spec, bar some period additions such as a Garfield on one of the windows and suchlike. This thread will probably document me getting small details for it, and just keeping it looking and running mint (which, believe me, when it comes to a Vectra near salt water, is a task in itself). So, what's it like? It's actually rather good. It's smooth, and refined feeling, plus the multi-link rear suspension setup really does help with handling/road holding. It's a confident and sure footed drive. This, or the Skoda? Even the mental narrator has it in for me, ffs. Erm, actually, I can't pick between the two. The Fabia, despite lacking in power, is a very fun little car. Poised and cheeky. Plus it's less likely to dissolve if it rains heavily and doesn't shaft me financially at the fuel pumps. This Vectra, on the other hand, is quick, it's spacious, and it's actually comfier than the Fabia (although they do have about 220k miles on them, they're not original). So aye, maybe this is the ideal two car balance? Has it broke yet? Erm, it had been in limp home mode since I bought it, but only noticed when gunning it off a roundabout passing Durham at 1am and the limiter kicked in at 4500rpm. As of today, the cam sensor has been replaced, and it now has the lost power returned. It moves well for a nearly 25 year old (?!?!) car.

The Fabia is going for a track rod replacement tomorrow. Not nervous about that, but in case they find some more ****ed things due to my escapades with ditches and suchlike. My aim for the coming (February) MOT, is to have it pass first time. Clutching at straws a bit, as I've never had a first time pass with this one!

@Rootedand @J.R.I've heard from Boss Fox and here's the definitive word on the YET1 plate and the YetivRS; "<Facebook tag removed> Hi Lee, the YET1 plate is on my Mum's 2017 Skoda Yeti and the VRS project is currently in bits part way through a rebuild after en engine fire, but with racing it's probably not cost effective to finish it as I only do 2 track days per year now." Damned shame IMO but maybe one day it'll get rebuilt. So his family has had at least three Yeti's. His and his wife's 2012 red ones and his mum's 2017 grey one.

Car has since been fixed and tested, there was a combonation of clogged Cat and worn piston rings. I changed to a 2nd hand cat and the pretty much fixed the fuel trims but the car still failed emissions, im guessing thisnl was also caused by the worn piston rings. Fixed the piston rings and emissions are now almost 0.01% vol. Fyi, a tip to diagnose worn piston rings was to start measuring emissions at a low engine temp, and if the figures start out ok, and worsen as the temp rises thats a sign that increasing volumes of oil is innthe exhaust as the oil temp increase. Mine was passing NCT limits below 75degC but above got worse, at 90degC it was well beyond the test limits.

When was "cost effective" ever a consideration for the Master! 😀 If he is racing now I can see why the project has stalled, he has found a regular source for his adrenaline addiction.

Thinking of how the car is used you are probably right. Firstly i use my car for work and that entails calling to peoples houses. So after each house visit the starter gets activated which could be a good few times during the day. However the journeys aren’t short berween house visits. The car gets enough driving to keep the battery at it’s optimum. For the last few months the car is averaging 700 ish miles a week. The car doesn’t get much city or town driving compared to driving out the countryside. I leave the start stop on. When i am in towns/cities i like to think i’m helping to keep the air a little cleaner in those areas. In VCDS you can check how many times the starter has been activated throughout it’s life. I’m not sure what the purpose is. Last time i checked it activated 55,000 times. It’s probably circa 57,000 by now.

OK - got the white plug(s) to fit - just needed the correct orientation. The GPS socket is a threaded one, whereas the aerial from the car is a coax push fit, so I have left it - as I have left the DAB. I intend to use Waze GPS via my iPhone, so don't need the car's antenna, and the unit doesn't have DAB (I think it's an option, but not one I needed, so didn't check further). I'm about to do a little out-of-sight surgery to the trim that fits over the heating controls, to allow the USB sockets to be accessed to charge my phone - and to connect it to CarPlay. Done! I. have to iron a few wrinkles out - the 'splash' screen it opens with is a VW one(!); it doesn't automatically open in CarPlay - but these are minor snags, and I'll work out a way to sort them. Unusually, even though my iPhone is 'hard-wired' via the USB charging and data cable, my audiobooks won't play over the speakers unless you are also linked by Bluetooth. All the steering wheel controls are working as advertised, and the info usually displayed on the original unit - seat heaters, temp setting etc - are replicated on the new unit. I'd say it was as close to plug-and-play as you can get. If I was installing one for someone else's car now, I estimate it would take 10 minutes or so. It seems one can't put a link on here - so just search for eBay item 185779514166 - that's the one I bought. Mike 😎

The screen isn't the issue, it is just a screen. As marky said, the glovbox unit is the brain and has to be taiyored to your car.

IMHO any scheme to reduce or limit driving in the city centres without a corresponding increase in public transport spending in the same area is simply revenue raising. They also increase pressure on car sales which benefits some party donors.

You talk about the screen as the head unit. It's just a screen. The glovebox unit is the head unit and that is the Columbus part.

take a read through this - https://pdfcoffee.com/vw-mqb-golf-mk7-lighting-explanation-pdf-free.html It’s fairly self explanatory when you get into it. find an unused channel, set typ, set dimmwerrt to 127, set AB to DRL or whatever else, run your wire to the pin that is shown at the end of the leuchte channel name

Do you know the name of the variable so I can search for it amongst the tens of thousands on the list? I can be fairly sure that it will be a term that bares no relation to "Engine starts" or "Starter motor operations/cycles" so pointless me searching without knowing what term the dopeheads decided on that day!

I've reached out to a couple of VAG retrofitters to see if they have any experience. One thing I noted looking at used head units on ebay though... I looked at a unit from a 2018 up with a part number of 1S0035869B. Appears to look the same as other Skoda units but the rear appears to have an extra port On the facelift Skoda units I've seen (part number 1ST035871A) It looks a bit different Wondering if the black port is for the DAB antenna and all the Skoda units I've seen thus far are FM/AM only. Confirmed by a VAG retrofitter "DAB uses a black FAKRA connection. AM/FM uses the white double FAKRA connection. The mustard coloured one is for the USB/Aux if fitted" - so you definitely need that extra port for it to be a DAB unit. I think I've found the part number for the DAB capable head unit now as well 1ST035869B (Skoda variant). Just waiting to find out two things. 1. If I can get the skoda variant of the head unit, could they code it to the car 2. Will it require an external antenna or is that likely already in place I'll let you know if i hear anything back.

Hi AG Franco, once again, thanks for you considered response. May you enjoy the rest of the weekend. paul

The terminology I used is the adopted naming convention in this forum and also many other places. It comes from the standard 1 or 2 din fitting head units as that is the size of the mib units. Most aftermarket head units have the control input/output part built in to the din section. Mib units do not, hence the naming above. Also above is mentioned pab. He is the guru with this stuff and should be able to pick out the part numbers you need.

Hi AG Falco, Thanks for the swift reply. I thought you was pulling my leg when you come back with that answer. However you took the time to respond and the very least i could do was to give it a go. to my surprise it worked and i am in your debt. it went out after one lock to lock and I had to smile. top man and once again thank you for taking time to give me that nugget of advice. just out of curiosity why does it do this? doe the sensors need to recallibrate themselves or something along that route. kind regards Paul

The lock to lock is not necessary, just a short drive, my vehicles have always reset after no more than 50m from my home but which does involve some degree of left and right turning.

Try this:- Ignition on, engine running. Turn steering wheel lock to lock both ways then drive the car. Normally clears the christmas tree. ( warning lights ) Thanks. AG Falco

hola charly. Bienvenido al foro de mensajes. Obtendrás más respuesta si eres capaz de traducir tus publicaciones al inglés.

Drop me a PM, i sell the complete units. Based on the picture you supplied the internals are twisting rather than pivoting. The complete unit i sell will fix that

It is over 20 years since the DVLA told me in writting i was having to pay them a penalty of £1,000 each on 2 vehicles for not declaring as SORN i had that were not ROAD TAXED and then selling them and someone that bought them registering them. They were write offs that were under repair and did not need to be on a SORN. They had no right under law at that time to FINE or take a PENALTY Charge or they likes. They were AT IT.

Great thread very useful info 👍

Check with @pab567 Give him your vin number, he will help you and sell you what you need. He may be able to reflash your unit. I upgraded my mib1 to mib2 with his help

Will give it look again when you nearly 70 the eyes aren't so good.😂 Trouble is l cannot get access to it or close up because of all the c--p in front of it, hopefully take off cover underneath and get a better view. 👍

Price drop to £1,800 without a spare set of wheels, £1,900 with. Here's pictures of the engine bay and interior. The drivers seat is beginning to get thin but there's no holes there yet. Carpet OK. Handbrake, shifter and wheel pretty good, they haven't been ripped to bits by another wearing rings. What dirty marks will come out of the fabric, being such a light colour it takes some keeping on top of! Sony stereo with a faceoff plate. Engine bay stock really, usual broken plastics around the battery tray, that's common. Anything else I've missed out or you want to see, please ask.

Just took these,think the one at the bottom under oil filter housing may be the one ,impossible to get to from the top? Will have to jack up and remove tray at bottom?

Just sold these on in last year after many years of ownership. 😩

Hadn't really thought about it - probably keep it in a box in case I want to return it to stock - then throw it away in 20 years... 😆

Oh - and the hands-free calling works without the supplied mic - so the original (which presumably routs through the multi-pin plug) is still active...👍

I guess thats because the bottom is pretty much flat like a barge hull, no transmission tunnel, no space for exhausts, (no driveshafts?) do they continue the flat floor under the bonnet with an undertray perhaps?

Must say at circa 400mls in, I am very impressed with mine. Ride is superb, comfortable, first experience of DSG auto - smooth, SEL trim well appointed. And (thus far!) no funny upsets with the tech!!!!

Don't knock it till you try it, but watch the video clip first to get the whole procedure

I don't see why you think it is a myth ! as I said I did it on my car a few years ago and it worked, but you say about moving it, you don't need to move it, in fact you don't need to even start it, but once it has been reset and you do drive it will start to learn your driving ways

Guilty. How did u know/guess!?!? The Superb pre-facelift grille has opening that lines up with headlight DRL strips. It's just a project that I may, or may not do. Depends if I can tap into the BCM correctly first. Then I'll c how it looks with the LED strip behind the grille.

I guess a lot of the difference would be the random differences of use between vehicles. 190k miles in 6 years 8 months is above average, do you use stop start a lot or disable it or don’t do very much urban driving, there’s so many variables. Someone else might get 10 years but somehow their use is easier on the battery, and whilst you have noticed it only just started many drivers wouldn’t.

He takes a new approach to "drifting". 😋

Mine also arrived on Wednesday. I pick it up next Friday. Fingers crossed its everything I have hoped over the last 21 months!

I understand that was his personal preference so I didn't ask him to do it if he was uncomfortable but the RAC guy literally blipped his and it worked. Yes he had more cranking power (not the correct term I know) but it worked instantly.

I would not rev the engine of the donor car whilst jump starting either. If the leads are decent quality and properly connected it should not be necessary. Your starter motor is connected to the donor cars battery. Positive to positive pole and negative to chassis earth point

There is a complex initialisation sequence with the Li-on low voltage battery. I think there is a fault somewhere that caused LV problems, this meant the LV protection kicked in and has to be reset. This guy’s car also had to have a new main computer a few months ago. Car might have been a lemon. Tesla should have been much quicker in response. There is no excuse when it is clearly warranty issue. optional material: around 17min mark

Mine arrived at the dealers this week. Tomorrow will be the 18 month anniversary of the order date Collecting on 30th or 31st. Just in time as the tax on my kodiaq runs out on the 31st

Having said that, look at this video about the chaos with flooding on the roads, at about 2:30 in the video, is that MG electric, I think it must be, thoughts? Most people have zero idea of what to do when the road is flooded 🙄

Please dont do it like that, do it properly; Create a new Leuchte channel in the BCM and run your LEDs off of that, if you use the DRL wire at the headlights your LEDs will flicker as its not a simple 12V feed. There will be a lot of spare channels in your bcm, the hardest part will be running the wire through the bulkhead.

I think he is 30 years behind the times with that notion, lets say it was my Yeti and the diff breather was submerged, the sudden cooling of the casing sucking in a good quantity of water plus that which would come in through the static head, several months later I present the car under warranty with a knackered diff, Skoda would quite rightly refute the repair due to water ingress, even if they didn't they would not repair the differential, its a specialist job, the parts are not available through VAG, aside from the time and cost they could not guarantee the repair as they could a new unit, nope it will be a bill of 4.5k plus labour to the customer. Hell the exact above has happened scores of times due to the incompetance of their own service technicians draining the diff instead of the Haldex unit yet that still does not get taken up by the media. If they are not going to repair something that every garage in the 50's and early 60's were capable of they certainly are not going to be messing with a high voltage battery pack swimming in corrosion even if the parts were available and they had certified technicians, the battery pack will be sold on to one of the specialist reconditioners but dependant on how long it remains wet even they are unlikely to be able to salvage much other than the casing, even that is dubious as electrolytic corrosion will have been having a field day. Anyone that says the battery pack should resist submersion is talking out of their backside, anything with service penetrations (cables, pipes, breathers, submarine propeller shafts) will leak to some degree, I designed military equipment which could be used outside in thunderstorm or resist a water cannon, far worse than a Tesla driving through a puddle (which of course was a porkie) but often the only way we could meet the submersion requirements (think falling off a raft during a river crossing etc) was to adapt specialised transit cases for the equipment made by other MOD suppliers.

White is AM/FM. Blue is GPS. Black is DAB.

used an LUK non gen one, £211 fitted with new pins that hold it in and bush on the end of it, but I work in parts so do get things a bit cheaper they flushed out all the pipes and there was bits of crap in the fluid somehow, im thinking maybe a seal had deteriorated ? why not ?

Mine have LED front and rear already for that reason, so recommend anyone swapping out the dingy yellow bulbs if possible. The amount of heat the normal bulbs produce is insane.

They're all the same platform. To my eyes the Taos closely resembles a SEAT Ateca.

Hi Oblong. I had a similar issue (stopped working but in a closed position). It was the sunroof motor (situated above courtesy light and sunroof open/close panel). Bought a working used unit off eBay and took an hour or so to fit. Job done. Thankfully, actual slider mechanism/chassis frame was not seized….