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Also, most refrigerant gases have a small bit of lubricant in them. Thats needed for the seals etc in the a/c pump. Otherwise, the seals dry and the gas leaks. I've family members who found out the hard way in a Ducato. When getting it regassed, they were told to leave it on to stop leaks. I'm another that has the a/c on permanently. I tried it with a/c off over 1000km and then a/c on for the same distance in a Leon and it made bugger all difference to the fuel economy

https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2020/575/oj and our UK implementation is this from the MoT testers handbook

Keeping it not steaming / misting up will need the systems very much working for the next few days in Edinburgh and through the winter. It will have minimal affect on economy, and you can pre heat the cars interior & de-ice the glass while plugged into the mains before setting off when the weather turns cold.

Think you’ll find modern ac systems only have a marginal effect on fuel economy. With every car I’ve had with climate control I’ve set the temp at 20° ac on and auto and never had the need to touch the control again. The benefit being at a comfortable temp, and no steamed up windows in the cooler months far outweigh the minimal amount of fuel used.

After 18 months and 6 days, I’ve finally taken delivery!

Problem solved ! I hate when there's no follow up on threads. And especially because there are other threads on the forum with exactly the same problem as mine - but without any follow up how it was soved - I will below write a detailed "how to fix it". On these MkII models there is a relay numbered "484" that does the complete DRL function. It's the same type of relay as I linked to above. Sadly the relays are located inside the dash panel, but if you have small/thin hands/arms it's possible to reach the relays from below without disassemble a lot (ask a child...). Remove the foam above the pedals. It has no screws, but be careful not to break it. Remove the cover on side of the dashboard on drivers side (mostly to get a better view, not possible to reach the relay from here) Remove the light switch: In "0", push in the knob some mm and turn it slightly to the right, This will release the locks and the switch unit can then be pulled out. Remove the connector from switch (push the locking tabs on its sides) and route the connector to the dashboard side opening to free up the hole Now you can see the relay "484". With a long tool it may be possible to take it out through the light switch hole, otherwise you need to grab it from below, Remove the cover of the relay (two snap lockings, quite easy) Inspect the PCB for suspect and/or cracked soldering, In our car I think it was the signals to one relay coil that was interrupted by a crack. May be barely visible (looks like a ring in the soldering). Re-solder all suspected pads. In the picture the suspected/cracked pins are already re-soldered: Re-assemble the relay, put it in place again and connect the light switch connector to the light switch again. Test the car with light switch in position "0" - side/parking light should be activated with ignition on, and after staring the engine the dipped beam should light up. If everything works, re-assemble the rest of the panels and covers. You have now saved a lot of money 🙂

Fixed Oil & Filter services with the 1.4 TSI PHEV so 9,400 miles / 372 days it should have been set at the PDI. Ask if the PDI was lax what about the transport blocks and they are sure they are removed. Check the tyre pressures, see if set safe and not over inflated. Set to your use, and rest the TPMS. Set that even if you do not adjust them/ Check where the coolant is. Check the Oil level cold, unstarted engine and as you should, @ operating tempaerature, so near 90*oC indicated, parked on the flat and a few minutes after switching off. PS Have them put the Oil Service & Service inspection at the same period. 1 year.

I dont think we should rule out that it hadn't been converted to diesel, nitrous oxide and simian semen with the DVLA not being notified.

My choice would be too leave her where she is happy. I don't see much that is desirable in all the features that you quote.

@Warrior193 Bingo! Thanks for the tip. Thankfully, both sides are regular clockwise threaded M8s.

Make sure you sort it out buddy, as an ex military person, PTSD is a bitch, let me tell you. Professional help is not a sign of weakness https://www.thestandrewspractice.com/crisis-contacts/

Premiere of Skoda Superb Mk4 will be broadcast live on 2 November at 19:00 CET on You Tube.

"Dual sleeve clamp". Measure the outside diameter of the pipes and buy one to suit. Genuine ones seem to rust away prematurely just as much as aftermarket, so no advantage in paying dealership premium prices.

I think it's the first place to check.

The lambda sensor isn’t doing anything at that point as it is too cold, I am surprised there were no glow plug fault codes.

What it means is they didn't complete the PDI, or skipped parts of it. Clearly someone falsified the record if they signed it off as complete (100% done). Your problem is you don't know what other parts weren't done, did they check wheel nut torque or tyre pressures etc. Because you have evidence that PDI wasn't finished, perfectly reasonable to make them do whole PDI again on grounds it wasn't fully done, and they can't be sure something else wasn't missed. If they moan just say it's their poor staff training or quality control, so it's their problem to fix at their cost. Say both you and dealer are agreeing that the PDI completion certificate must have been issued falsely as PDI was not finished. If they really moan suggest they ask the dealers managing Director if he prefers you raising falsification with Skoda UK than them redoing PDI

I thought I would write this post as it may help others who come across similar issues in the future. A day after I had cleaned my car, I locked it and noticed the little red light on the drivers door stayed illuminated upon locking the car. I tried all the doors and despite being locked, the rear passenger door opened. I noticed the red warning on the dash for a door open wasn’t illuminated and then tried the electric window, nothing worked. I thought, as I had just cleaned it out and had the rear door fully open, which is rare as no one normally sits in the back, perhaps I had stretched or broke the cables inside the black rubber sleeve. I removed the rubber, checked all the wires, all seemed fine. Disconnected the plug, sprayed some contact cleaner, and suddenly everything seemed to work again. This fix lasted a day or two. Then the same issue returned. Solid red alarm light, door not locking, no electrics on that door, no indication door was opened on dashboard. I then took the door card off, thinking it was a Dodgey cable somewhere. Spent an hour with my multimeter checking wires and plugs from the door pillar, to the big connector plug that goes to the window regulator motor. I could not find any issues with the wiring. Anyway, I worked out if I unplugged the door connector, waited a few seconds, plugged it back in, the door would lock/unlock once, then stop working. In addition Vcds was coming up with No Signal/communication, or sometimes not even reading anything for the rear right door unless I unplugged, reconnected the door and scanned quickly. So it was communicating for a few seconds when connected, but then losing connection once I either locked the car, or opened the door. I would get the red door open warning on the first open. Close the door, open it again and nothing. Stuff would work once, then stop! Strange. Having had an issue on my Mk1 where I replaced a window motor, with a faulty unit (crap part sent to me by a breaker), and this caused all sorts of central locking issues, I thought it was worth replacing the window regulator motor even though the window was fine. I knew the central locking goes through this motor unit, and has the door locking module attached. When I put a good unit on my Mk1, it fixed all the central locking issues. So replaced the window regulator motor yesterday, and everything is fixed. Door locks, unlocks, alarm arms, window goes up and down, all the auto functions work. So turns out, it must have been a failed or failure door module, on the window regulator motor. Interestingly, I replaced my current unit 1K0959703J on my 2008 with a newer unit from a 2012 1K0959703A. Same part number, different suffix at the end. I had read that it might need the J suffix on the end to work, but the replacement unit with an A Suffix worked straight away without coding. Albeit upon checking the coding, it is exactly the same as my old unit with code 0000144. So for me, a few questions answered: - It isn’t always a snapped / corroded wire or connector - The central locking system does still go through each window motor unit like the Mk1 - Replacing a window motor unit / door module didn’t need the same suffix on the part number at the end and no coding was required. It took me a few days to sort this issue, but got there in the end. I hope this write up helps someone else, as reading all the other articles on here gave me a good starting point on where to begin investigating. I’m sure as these mk2s age, there will be a fair few little issues like this arise for us all over time.

Hello! I have an appointment for the update on November 7th! Downloaded it by itself today and installed it in 15 minutes! Haven't tried it yet, but I'll give it a try!

Probably a gamble to catch the last of the old school buyers. There's not many cars left these days like the Octavia/Superb and especially as a Combi. Everyone is pushing the SuV route, but I can't understand why anyone would prefer a big SuV over a nice estate car.

I'd have an F-Type over an M3 everytime. It looks so much nicer, a real sports coupe where (to me) an M3 looks like a boy racer's souped up saloon. I'm not a sports car enthusiast so looks would matter to me and that F-Type is a great choice. Enjoy!

Thanks tried all that and nothing worked so it was a garage job for new valves. Cost me £30 for the 2 wheels so could have been worse!

Yes, If your standard tariff for electricity is 27 pence a kWh then 27 pence each kWh. So if you get 11 kWh of a charge that is £2.97 If you were to get a Off peak night time tariff of 9 pence a kWh and get 5 kWh charged in the off peak time then 45 pence.

Looking at my wheel it is definitely as you’ve shown. If it was the other way around the bag would fit but assume since I have the bag with the larger back it won’t. How much would your friend be asking? I have seen a few pre facelift bags on eBay for not scary money so that’s always an option.

From gov.uk..... Do LED headlamps require washers / self levellers? Headlamp washing and levelling systems are a legal requirement and required if the LED headlamp or high intensity discharge lamp has a luminous intensity exceeding 2,000 lumens. If the luminous intensity isn’t marked on the lamp, a tester won’t be able to tell if these systems are needed. In this case, the headlamps will be treated as ordinary lamps and the vehicle can be passed as they don’t need washers or levelling devices fitted. The headlamp washers and levelling systems can only be rejected if they’re fitted and are inoperative or obviously defective. If they’re missing and you think they should be fitted, then pass and advise.

Finally got my PHEV estate and loving it so far. I have noticed however on the app and on the infotainment screen that it is saying it is due an oil change in 100 miles (was delivered with 8 miles on the clock). I have been Googling but can't seem to find this mentioned anywhere, is this normal/correct? Thanks in advance

Not true on anything VAG for the last 15 years or so, when the AC is turned off (using the ECON setting on Climatronic) the pump still runs and circulates some refrigerant. At this time of year the power consumed by the AC is negligible but when it was 40°c here for weeks on end it really knocked my fuel economy.

Dont poke it too hard with the end of that putter! 😄

I believe its this one. Drivers side crash sensor! Image included.

A4 is an inline splice in the loom, where one wire becomes two or more, not a connector as such. All you'd find if you did track it down would be a taped up lump with more wires coming out of one side than t'other. All such 'connections' labelled with numbers inside circles on the circuit diagrams are this type of thing. Well done for finding a workaround.

All fixed now. I poked around in a compartment under the battery until I found the 2 wires to the reverse lights switch and the fused supply from the ignition. I dragged the wires one at a time up through the plastic tube into the compartment under the battery and soldered and shrink-wrapped the wires to my new connector which had had its wires extended with a 2-core cable. Few will be surprised to hear that the ignition-switched feed wire to the switch had broken next to the old connector. Again, I am indebted to @Breezy_Pete for this successful outcome.

Turned out to be soot partially blocking the egr cooler as suspected. It was replaced with a genuine new one and new egr valve at a cost of £1120. The code has not reappeared since. P2002 code has gone and also the odd appearance of the P20EE code that sometimes appeared at the same time. Will be using dpf cleaning additive every few months from now on to try and avoid this issue again.

In 99% of these cases the problem is not in the passenger door, but in the driver's door, since that one has much more open-close cycles, and therefore the wires wear faster.

I have a 1.0TSi Scala and it is just as smooth as the 1.2TSi Seat Toledo (Skoda Rapid in disguise) which preceded it. It doesn't have the torque the 1.2 had, that would happily bimble along at 30mph in 6th, but the 1.0 is a little more economical. I certainly don't get vibrations at any speed, so I suspect that it's something other than the engine that is at the root of your issue.

I might leave the keys in the Beemer, as it has GAP insurance...I just need a way to figure out how I could claim I wasn't a total pillock and left the keys in the car As it stands I've shoehorned the car in on my drive and jammed another car across the front of it. Only got to last another 4 days. Can't believe how much cheaper the Jag is to insure, though. It's actually cheaper than my Peugeot 3008. I think Direct Line might have made a mistake, will have to chase it up when I get a day off.

ah right, we're 100% electric house, heating is ASHP paying 29p peak and 7.5p off peak. For 7 months of the year we are 100% solar or off peak, the rest we are largely off peak. Today for example because I plugged the car in this morning we had off peak through to 11am which means I was able to refill the house battery and we're still runnng off that at 8.30 pm

Definitely the airbag on the right! So I’ll pull the trigger on the new steering wheel and go on the hunt for an airbag as well. Thanks for your help.

I think you'll find that with certain types of high power headlights, washers are required. They were on the last two unless regulations have changed. Anyway he's flounced off, I'm not chasing after him and if he cares more about paint than safety then he's not driver material.

I want to completely agree, but presumably regenerative braking will reduce brake pad wear? Suspension, tyres, and EV shenanigans such as "Oooh! See this graph here? That tells you that this hot summer has cooked your battery, Love. I'm afraid it's going to need to be refurbished with our battery conditioning service, or else your range will drop to next to nothing, and you'll need a new battery because your car will be worthless with a dead battery, won't it?. We're very busy just now as this heat has damaged a lot of EV batteries, but I'll see if I can squeeze you in next week."

Retired after dealing with what's commonly known as the great unwashed and the terminally stupid.

Well been out for about 3 hrs today and since I did the throttle thing, it does appear to be working much better.

At the Bedgebury National Pinetum near us, no Yetis but there was one of these

100% staged

So do I

The Auto Bild test you mention is dated October 18th, please have a look at the Tyre Review winter tyre test published October 2nd: https://www.tyrereviews.com/Article/2023-Tyre-Reviews-Winter-Tyre-Test.htm Could anyone explain how is it possible that the winner of the latter test is positioned 10th in the Auto Bild test? There's even the same tyre size, so factors such as width or radius don't come into play... (in case they ever would) WTH??? I'm fully against conspiracy theories, but in this case: who's paying who for those tests???

I have the Hex-V2 package based in Bishops Stortford

The simple answer is everything should be properly coded and not bypassed, it is not just parking sensors, if have any of reverse camera, ACC, blind spot monitors etc then they can all be affected. There is no turn off switch so has to be coded to react differently when it detects a trailer is plugged in. The days when cars had negligible safety systems and could just fit simple wiring are long gone

The cell repair method would only be needed if pack have in-balance. Gradual degradation cannot be fixed because all cells would need replacing. There are many Leaf battery upgrades. It’s relatively straightforward: get a bigger pack, add an adaptor wiring harness with a translation chip, done. https://github.com/dalathegreat/Nissan-LEAF-Battery-Upgrade But as you say, it’s not worth it when newer car can be bought for a few grand more. So other components are less likely to be near replacement. The front suspension on my Leaf feels loose, but none of the garage can see any problem with it.

It is a shame that replacement, larger capacity battery packs foe LEAFs and Zoes are not offered as the cars are often in good nick and as the battery packs, at least in the Zoe, are the same size whether 22, 40 or 50 kWh and now should be much cheaper in real terms compared to what it would have been for the battery pack years ago the ide of dropping in a battery pack double or twice the size into the older LEAF or Zoe would be grand. I suppose the electronics or some electrical components might not be happy with a double or triple sized but I gather a few have been done, certainly in the US, and got round the issues of the battery upsizing. May not be worth it if one can pick up a second hand 52 kwh Zoe for not much over £10k, 3 year old and certainly in the Zoe the hp has doubled in that time and similar, and even more, for the LEAF I think from the hp numbers I have seen. Alternative, like Bjorn Nyland did, is to get someone to locate any defective individual cells and bring the car back up to near original capacity as it is oft just the odd cell going down.

In a Benz you can tailgate and flash people out of the way shouting "I'm in a Mercedes, get out of my way..." and get away with it, do that in a Skoda and people call you names.