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Different colours this morning........

Your VCDS is out of date and needs updating. There used to be a massive warning regarding byte 18 so I wouldn't suggest messing about with it. To fix the bulb out warnings properly, you'll need something like VCP or ODIS which can directly edit the lighting EEPROM. VCDS cannot do this

Drivers door is probably due to a failed microswitch in the door control unit in the door or a broken wire in the trunking between the door frame and the door. I am guessing that the gear lever release lock wont let you move into gear with a door open. Look in your handbook for manually bypassing the lock. Here is what mine says (with picture not copied): Selector lever-emergency unlocking Fig. 109 Selector lever-emergency unlocking In case of interruption of the power supply (e.g. flat vehicle battery, defective fuse) or defect of the selector lever lock, the selector lever can no longer be shifted from the position P in the normal way and the vehicle can no longer be moved. The selector lever must be unlocked in case of emergency. – Apply the handbrake firmly. – Open the storage compartment in front centre console or the front ashtray. – Carefully pull up the front left and right cover. – Pull up rear cover. – Use a finger to press the yellow plastic part in direction of arrow ⇒ fig. 109. – Simultaneously press the shiftlock button in the handle of the selector lever and shift the lever into the position N (if the selector lever is shifted again into the position P, it is once again blocked). 

We don't have Skoda Connect in Australia... yet. Reports online suggest that the Enyaq when (finally) released in Australia next year will be the one of the first vehicles to have it. The local Cupra Born owners have had their cars hamstrung by the lack of connected services. It means they have to go to the dealer for major software updates. With regard to the ambient lighting, you should already have the extended version. At least my 2021 RS does, but they did delete a few options between 2021 and 2023. Skoda Australia also will not sell FEC/SWAP codes - Feature Enabling Code / SoftWare As a Product - a mechanism to pack units with features and sell activation codes later which is what the online shop does - again something only available via Skoda Connect. Our MIB3 (Modularer Infotainment Baukasten or Modular Infotainment System - 3rd Generation) units introduced in 2021 has meant the loss of a bunch of features because they moved them to online only. In Australia, radio logos don't work, there is no Gracenote album artwork, no TMC/Traffic Information, No firmware updates via WiFi, and no user profiles/personalisation - to name a few items. It's very frustrating. IMO, Skoda Australia should have put the Skoda Connect/LTE hardware in vehicles now ready for activation later.

Thanks for the BYD video, one of the few EV ones where the presenter has not got up my nose and it has not been full of narcissism, quite and old school car review in many ways. A very impressive vehicle and whilst it has all the things that set me off like any other modern car, (square tea-trays on the dashboard for instance) I found myself really liking it, that is a first time in a couple of decades that I have desired a new car. 😯 I am not surprised about the Chinese buld quality and expect it will be very reliable. I thought the front seats looked superb, other than Tillet carbon shell race seats I have never found a seat to be attractive or desirable. Are there any prices for it yet? I think it will really shake up the European and US manufacturers.

Thermostat or maybe a stuck sliding sleeve shroud on the waterpump, the former more likely if its taking 30 miles to get tp temperature, there is also a DSG thermostat if your car has that transmission, they often fail. Ignore the temperature guage it will show a rock steady 90°c between 77 and 117°c, thats the figure that others have given, I just know that its a crazy wild range. So not being able to trust the temp guage I judge how many miles it takes for the heater to start to pass warm air relative to the outside temp, usually 1-2 miles, 2-3 in sub zero conditions

That depends what your original byte 18 value is. If it's 00, it means none of the 'defaults' are completely correct for your car and you should not change it. If it's some other value, then you can probably restore the config by changing it back to the default. Still - some people have had issues even after restoring the original value which is why it has such a large warning now

Easy, stay out of them and well clear, don't stand or park near one or put one in your garage..

The OP asked for ideas not to be given orders of what to do, they were appreciative of Felix's suggestion of an economic replacement and no doubt the other contributors also.

Appreciate its a bit of a distance but it might be worth you speaking to the guys at https://eastyorkshireretrofits.co.uk/ or https://www.vw-retrofit.co.uk I know both have done installations with customer supplied parts. I can't say for certain, but you might find you need to code the new unit once its installed.

Yes.

If the car is after warranty, it's better to replace it on your own, using used parts. This way you will not need a seat and mobile phone Found one in Poland for example for ~300 GBP. As for replacement, the trim below is installed using latches only, so it should be relatively easy to remove. Once remove there are couple of screws under the trim. Pics from this should help to figure it out: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134745706302?fits=Plat_Gen%3AMK+IV|Model%3AOctavia&hash=item1f5f784f3e:g:UHgAAOSwZ5llFAMh&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4AYw6ttDcqXkJNP83hmb3LsO%2FIvfNCVkFDwbykPRzyvB3eQ2MEri1D1xonyPbKP03zuGQZq2MG7sY7Rs1%2FvypbXdo%2F%2B%2Fv2tfJOvlgmnv4kWtm%2Bn1OnAUjHLRYJteVVhBYIpbiEWzvoZzOgeBkn%2Fq%2FZth7w1TP4Nl8uPaPleX0qkvn9f5OuVrpuvcbk3JoqeoDHAsuUzbgve91Jv9eKDDfIsJxb6j4xtSwP%2BtCoCknNHSpH2YIkCuZzJQAFPO7W6gOD%2BY%2BXoDrRVfCpKUz%2FlCLDrnRsH3mOA50sLwmH%2B%2B9jNK|tkp%3ABFBMvvPTsf9i

Thank you all done SD card in the post ...Thank you

Just wanted to add my thanks to the conversation here, guidance and help with providing the spare part. Arrived well packaged and I finally got around to trying to fit it on Sunday between the showers... a bit of a fiddle but once it's sussed, it's fine. Went in well and yes boot switch now working as before. Thanks again for your help.

I recently updated the firmware of my Superb MY17 from version 0942 to 1433, and created a guide for anyone else who would b interested in going down this path. Firmware Update Guide v1.0.pdf

That's a very reasonable price in the current climate for what sounds like a decent car. At 120bhp I wouldn't class the 1.6 as underpowered. It sounds like you do plenty of long journeys which should help the dpf and the main thing I find when they do a regen is to make sure it's cleared before you switch off the engine.

Here's mine, a couple of weeks old. My 4th Karoq1.5 DSG. Previous Karoqs, 2 SEL and 2 Sportline. This one has Amundsen + & Winter Pack. Ceramic coated

Do most people who own cars have them repaired by a VW dealer or specialist? Even those who own VAG vehicles? I would not make that assumption any more than I would assume that the OP is not capable of removing and replacing an LCD screen and needs to be given orders.

@Darealspoon I had a similar (same?) issue with our MY2012 S2. I posted the problem (and the solution) on the Dutch Skodaforum. You can probably read it with Google Translate: https://www.skodaforum.nl/forum/i/schakelaar-binnenverlichting-doorgebrand-→-nieuwste-artikelnummer.46070/

Easiest thing would be to put the incandescent bulbs back and make sure everything is OK, then compare to the the resistance of these shonky LEDS, calculate a suitable shunt resistor using the parallel resistor equation and source some making sure they have enough current carrying capacity, then you will have the white light that you seem to desire and twice as many potential future electrical faults. Pretty soon people will be hankering after yellow lights and I will be cool again 😄

The above post was in response to me posting about smart meters were going to be made mandatary and that you can refuse and if you did, that the Police would get involved as well and come with the supply authority to assist in them gaining access to your property and installing said meter. I was unable to locate the article where I read it, however this link also backs this up and he has evidence from an expert on the subject.

As I understand it that's total, no option to change vins after 12 months. There's an option to upgrade from 3 to 10 or unlimited at any time. It's not a time based subscription, once you've paid it's yours for ever.

VERY NICE WORK

Nope, doesn't mean it won't though, it was just very poor design, just as it would be to put the petrol cap and filler inside the car, no?

Seems to be compatible on 2018-2021 Fabia with Swing / Swing Plus radios. SEEMS, but I'm not 100% sure, that it also works on other Skodas and that compatibility can be verified with the radio turned on, holding down the SETUP button until the SERVICE MODE screen opens, software update / version: here if you find an entry that starts with MEN2_EU_SKGPx_ , in my opinion it is compatible.

Well, mine visibly broke a rear spring whilst parked!

Columbus for Superb Mk2 is NOT covered with Component Protection technology, it's just the code you need. If dealer is not able to help you then find on eBay or FB someone who can read the code.

Cycle the switch and try in all 3 positions. If no joy remove the switch, check wiring is connected, disconnect and test switching with a multimeter on audible continuity setting.

Not that I'm aware of. I've done it without the VCDS and it worked fine, however the service schedule had previously been set at 5000 mile intervals rather than the extended one which mine should be. This adjustment can only be made with VCDS or similar.

300 miles and 3 weeks since I changed the EVAP canister/charcoal filter - and no more warning lights. The part number for the canister is 6C0201801A and cost me £82.92 - part number courtesy of Breezy_Pete - so thanks much for this. Couldn't get it through my local parts store but my mechanic was able to source it. Forgot to mention I was also getting a P04F0 code sometimes - but not always. Removal and installation is straightforward - take off the back wheel under the filler cap to access the plastic wheel arch liner. remove all screws and then the liner itself, The canister will be right in front of you. Remove the 10mm retaining bolt underneath and slide the canister off its bracket. Push a flathead screwdriver into the resctangular lug to release the the white plastic locking ring on the hose clamp fittings, and then swap out the canisters. Put everything back together and you're done. If you're unfamiliar with EVAP systems here's an explainer https://www.nyvip.org/PublicSite/OBDII/evap.html#:~:text=The Evaporative Emission Control System,powered vehicles since the 1970s. I dealt with 2 mechanics here who had never had to change one of these. They're not on the service schedule. If you've found your way here and haven't already changed out the sensor and piping harness I'd reckon change the canister first. Especially if you have been filling your tank past the first click - as I had done and as Andymod says above is a no no. Many thanks to the all the folks on this thread and also this one: Cheers

Worked in mine, Mac

VCDS keeps a log of every change you've made, I'd suggest reversing each change in turn until the original behaviour returns

If the MIB3 architecture is the same as the MIB2 architecture then the screen is just that, only a screen, and the "intelligence" (and coding) is in the glovebox unit.

Different countries and documents 10 years apart. final_report_nfpa.pdf covered-car-parks-fire-safety-guidance-for-electric-vehicles.pdf

Might also be worth posting in the relevant Superb forum if you haven't already done so.

are the ones marked as VW also Skoda compatible for the same headunit?

Not on this setup there isn’t. The steering rack is sealed to the car body and the actual column doesn’t leave the car. The shaft isn’t what is sealed, the rack to the car is. I understand what you mean as it was an occasional problem on Mercedes and needed greasing, but the mqb platform doesn’t work like that.

Hmm, that is very interesting, thanks for posting. Firstly Munro Associates threw me a bit because I used to do a lot of work with a company called Munro Associates but here in the UK, they are electrical and building services consulting engineers and I have worked on many large construction projects with them on the electrical designs. They are not part of the Munro Associates in this video though. I'm actually quite impressed with the level of integration on this, but at the same time, while it maximises profits and saves time for Telsa in assembly, it also adds massively to the repair costs to the car owners. With regard to the Zoe battery pack in the Ebay listing, that is totally different to what was shown in the video of what was alleged to be the Zoe traction battery beneath the rear seat base. So with that in mind, it looks as if the problem with that battery with the firemen access panel in the middle of the battery, on top is either an old, or newer model then that in the eBay advert,

I'm in Melb too. Drive stop start+ a few highway trips a tank. I avg around 8.5L/100km's. Mines done around 17k km's. Turn on the instant l/100 setting on your driver screen. When im at cruising speed of 60 - 100, on flat ground, i use between 4- 6 l/100km's. Closer to 9 for stop start. I have the vrs too. 22my

Hahahaha..... Their newer cars from Taxes (I think) have "structural battery". Basically use battery as the floor of the vehicle. Deep-dive disassembly vid for info if you are interested, it's not a short one. Thumbnail is enough to show what I'm saying. From this ebay listing, looks like Zoe battery have similar metal casing on the top? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/355084020886

Yes I agree I will be. I have been thinking of doing a cheeky oil change for that reason too. Will have to see. I know Skoda are going to book me in at about the 3000 km to check the fluid levels.

That’s awesome. involved is an understatement though! hats off to him, it looks great.

Good morning................

Here are some exterior pics of my Skoda Octavia VRS. Just 2 week old.

Something a bit different... Red Mk3 l&k on bentley gtc alloys in stealth copper

I am back, meet Darth's little brother. A Superb tsi 220 sportline with 390hp 😊

We found a new trail today .........

The Fabia is a bit broken right now so I can't do any sort of photography like this with it at the moment, but I've got this.

On Rannoch Moor, Saturday 11-11-23

This is an interesting and very relevant thread in reddit. Sounds almost exactly to replicate your experience. The golf gti engine is virtually the same. I've also read the explanation of functions in the ea888 g3 study guide and brown and blue switches and failure is as follows. 1. reduced oil pressure (brown switch) - effect of failure oil pump goes to full power mode only. DTC Fault recorded. Oil lamp 2. oil pressure switch failure. - effect of failure - dtc fault logged - oil lamp. Update for anyone who stumbles upon this: I put an oil pressure gauge on the car over the weekend and found that the pressures are totally within spec. Drove it around under the same conditions that usually triggers the light and found that the oil pressure was steady at 23 psi, and occasionally dipped for a split second to maybe 20 psi then back to 23 when accelerating. Hard acceleration made the system go into high pressure regulation mode, and the pressure would stick at around 50 psi until letting off the throttle. So looks like this is a switch problem. The minimum pressure you should ever see according to the service manual (for engine code CXCA) is around 17 psi, and the low pressure switch supposedly goes off around 12 psi. So the switch is probably shot. I think both the reduced oil pressure (brown) and the oil pressure (blue) switches are bad, as in my research I found that the brown switch causes the oil pressure light to go off, and the blue switch causes the EPC light/limp mode (but not the oil pressure light) to go off. I'll replace both switches today and see what happens. My suspicion is that the switches were damaged in the past due to there being fuel in the oil, as the car had a hard start problem in the past that was introducing a small amount of fuel to the oil on crank. UPDATE: Replacing both the oil pressure switches (blue and brown) fixed the issue! Have not had the light come back on for a few weeks now. I'll try to post the study guid oil supply explanation sections later as well, as it is a decent read.. For the cost, if it was me still trying to get through this, I'd try relacing the full power pressure switch (blue) as well. Ruling that out. As there is interaction between the two pressure switches and the N428 oil control valve in the event of "faulty" switches. The N428 oil control valve (on front crankcase - need to remove vbelt and probably drain oil partially at least) could be faulty as well perhaps - mentioned in previous post - if it was sticking in one mode or the other sometimes even briefly, It would mean the pump cold be in the wrong pressure mode compared to what the ECU is expecting (asking) for pressure wise. The other thing that has caught people out with oil pressure issues on EA888 gen 3s, (but usually results in a permanent and immediate oil pressure problem) is the anti drain valve in the oil filter housing. It is a sort of stick assembly that goes down into the bottom of the oil filter housing and there were at least two different versions. One had a spring tensioner the other just a ball joint stick pressed into the top of the oil filter case. But both feature a oring or dual oring seal at the important end to seal the drain hole. It gets pulled out when you change the oil filter (for the oil to escape). If that gets damaged, broken or the o ring gets leaky, it will leak pressure. If the stick gets broken it might not be retained to seal properly. It is pretty easy to check this when car engine cool and you won't need to drain the oil. just take the oil filter housing cover off slowly and allow the oil to drain down. Hope this might help, but keep us updated even if it is the garage who takes it forward! Edit: oil supply pdf self study guide attached. EA888 OIL Supply.pdf