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Several posts hidden before this gets further out of hand. I'm sure non of the posters who have had their post hidden need to reminded what the next steps will be if we need to moderate the post further??

Colourful sunset earlier.............

Cooling engines / coolant oil in Summer also uses energy, and heating this up like oil and coolant, and hybrid,s ICE engines firing up need to get to efficient temps each time they fire up, then shut down, then again fire up. Unlike an ICE vehicle that might warm up and stay warmed up until the journey ends. The reason i mention the AC not operating at 3*oC and below is because i read owners manuals and know the system,s and how the work. Some are 4 *oC and below and some 2*oC and below. As to why the AC does not greatly affect the MPG is because it is such a small amount compared to other factors. Tyres / Pressures, Catalytic converter needing up to temp on cold starts and now the GPF needing up to heat and then how much you might use stop / start or not and wipers, lights., entertainment and all the rest.

I've been wanting to take a good pic for the last few weeks and going to the same place on the way home from work. Finally on Friday the perfect conditions happened. I meant to stick a camera and tripod in the car in case, but kept forgetting, so pic took with my phone. I thought it turned out quite well. 😎 Image not edited, apart from a slight crop. I can't remember if phone was set to 'sunset mode' or not as took many pics using auto and manual modes. Dec 15 Fri, 4:03 PM GMT Motorola Moto g(8) power ƒ/1.7 1/ 33 sec 4.05mm ISO436

Sorry to say but not the case. The way the current monitor works is it monitors the return path to the battery. You can put the negative of a charger wherever you want on the car as long as its NOT the negative battery terminal. (and the location is rated for the correct current draw of course). Anywhere but the negative battery terminal is after the current monitor - including cigarette lighter, engine block and such. The positive can go on any direct connection the positive side of the battery so the 12v socket is acceptable for this.

This is the manual car/dog version of “I can’t get up because the cat is comfortable on my lap”

I just picked it up from the detailer and it was lovely for a few hours. Starting to rain now (if you click on the picture, you can see how shiny it is... or was)

I think I'll just leave this here and wish everyone a very happy Christmas.

Please be more specific, what have you tested with a multimeter, how have you tested it, what is the values of the test? The way this system work is there is no 'unlock/lock' for the boot. There is simply 2 boot latching releasing methods - the key fob middle button that works all the time, and the external boot handle when pressed sends a 12v signal to the BCM, this then checks if the car is in a locked or unlocked state, if its in an unlocked state, it sends 12v to the boot latch to release it. So if the key fob is releasing the boot latch, then the boot latch and wiring to it is working no problem. The only part that is going to be faulty is the wiring to the external boot button or the external boot button itself. Thats why im a bit confused when you say youve tested it but wont say how or what the outcome is.

Well clearly it has, out of the 4 posters who have had their comments hidden you quoted one of them. Which I hasten to add added nothing to this post whatsoever other than to stir things up.

If you have a multimeter and know how to use it start the car and see what voltage you have at the battery you should be able to work out if the alternator is charging or not.

You could fit in and drive an original Mini and be able to operate all the controls safely, let alone the current one unworthy of its name and getting more so. That said you would have had more space around your knees, elbows etc in the original than many new cars, maybe even your Superb, thats how bad things have got. A passenger in an original Mini, even one your size could reach his legs across and operate the controls at the same time as the driver.

I am a complete Numpty! Just went out I tried it again and there is a very faint clicking of a ratchet and that works and can now raise the height. Sometimes the simplest of things stare you straight in the face - the apparent obvious I had completely overlooked.

Never enough fogs received_867218605406052.mp4

@RicardoM @Thefeliciahacker @D.FYLAKTOS @nta16 @R_Blue Thanks all for your help - here is Rita, running again and happy. Best Sunday ever. received_1088185492182837.mp4

How much???? 1300 is a stupid amount. If I do the job for people using all genuine parts including water pump, thermostat, cotton reel tube, coolant, bolts - I charge the following: £500 parts and £320 labour. And if they want the coolant bottle replaced with a non silikat bag one its an extra £30. So all in its £820 or £850 using genuine parts. Cheaper if they want aftermarket.

Surprised to see this thread is (was) still alive. Hifi still very much alive in this household. vinyl collection ever growing but space becoming a problem. currently listening to ' Good God'. The AE1LE hit the spot!

I just picked this up on Saturday and drove it 450 miles from the dealer in Perth back home to Somerset. Loving it so far.

I have owned a skoda superb mark 2 170crdti for three years and enjoyed the car immensely. Because it had a good service history and low mileage I decided to use RRG Skoda in Bolton to service my car and I took out a two year service plan, which worked well for me, the dealership were very helpful and I was so satisfied that in August this year I signed up for another two year deal. As a pensioner on a fixed income I started to pay monthly and booked an annual service for December. Disaster struck at the end of November whilst driving on the M60 in Manchester when two cars piled into the back of mine and the insurance wrote off my car. As you would expect I got less than the cost of a replacement for my low mileage FSH, almost perfect car. I decided to buy another superb this time getting the 140 powered version, higher mileage but 2 years younger, still a mark2 but a face lift. I contacted my Skoda dealership to tell them about the change in car, cancel the pre booked service and asked them to transfer my service plan to the new car, no dice!! VW financial services who administer the plan refused to transfer the plan and also refused me a refund of my payments to date, they did say I could transfer the plan to the scrapyard the Insurers had sent my car to. So a warning to anyone before they take out such a plan, if anyone steals your car and you don't get it back or you write off your vehicle VWFS will try and steal your payments. After a great deal of fruitless complaining to VWFS I wrote a review on Trustpilot, within a week VWFS contacted me and offered a refund as a goodwill gesture. Anyone in this situation should try this approach, a victory for the little person up against a very large business

I used to drive with AC off in all but very hot conditions as I prefer fresh air, including open window. I worked out after years of doing this that the AC systems in my cars were suffering by only sporadic or seasonal use and required compressor servicing & regassing too often for my liking. In my last two cars I started leaving climate/AC on full time and it had no measurable impact on fuel economy. In the current Octavia I leave it on a set temp and I'm returning equal or better consumption figures than Skoda claim. Happy days. Nothing to be saved by turning AC off, and I still have a window / roof open occasionally (naughty, I know ). Petrol only, no hybrid/electric/battery etc. in my little cruiser.

kW is the computer calculated level of how much power the engine is producing.

I was completely off with this one. The battery on my Superb is only 68ah. I guess I confused this with my second car which does have a 95ah battery.

Thank you both for this advice, much appreciated. I'll have a go at taking the nozzle off and clearing it in the next few days.

Just bought my Scala today. The long term mpg reading on my Scala was 51mpg. I averaged 50mpg over the last 100 miles from picking my car up. I also averaged high 40's from my previous Octavia 1.5tsi dsg. I'd first check all of your tyre pressures. Obviously mpg can be dependable on how heavy footed you drive and the conditions you drive within. I've always used 95 Ron fuel, too.

As originally designed (QV upthread) Citroen "aerobumps" were designed to protect against car park door scratches, not as a meaningful side impact structure as you seem to believe based on this posting.

As it mostly seems to be a problem when turning, I suggest the cause is a slightly buckled wheel. Easy to check by raising each wheel in turn and checking the wheel rim on both sides while spinning the wheel.

We name our vehicles (Army or Civilian) with woman name too, mainly our wife's or girlfriend's.

Thx a million for this guide. I just completed replacing the assembly on a Fabia III. It worked like a charm to release it, once I understood and trusted the "towards rear -arrow a- out of fasteners" step. The assembly is soft at some points, so it is easy to get the needed grip. The only hard part was that my drain-hose must be mounted differently, since the hose did not come all the way out with the assembly as I have seen on some videos. The drain tube stayed in its mount in the car frame. To get the drain hose in the new assembly, I had to resort to use a piece of string, wrapped around the tube and let one end of string pass through the drain hole in the assembly, leaving the other end with the tube. Then I "unwound" the string around the neck of the tube, like when you need to get a ring over a swollen knuckle. At the same time pressing the tube neck towards the assembly from behind. It was not planned with the seized tube and it had started getting dusk, so I have no video of what I did. I needed a speedy wrap up.

Forgot, my wife's Favorit had a boot light that was a detachable torch rechargeable torch, that was when Skoda really did have Clever ideas. Was just about to go for my winter bath (don't tell the Water Board they've not Sunday cover for this) but on seeing the 105 another quick one of my many car stories - I was once lent the (proper) Skoda garages starship of the fleet a very used and abused 105 mk1 which they said they couldn't kill, it took a little while to build up speed but once it got going it went well, heavy steering even for its day. I was told to ignore the petrol gauge, as I went sailing a car on a dual-carriageway I then had to pull in and stop as the petrol had run out, garage co-owners said when I told him "I didn't say to ignore the warning light". 😄 Lost it now but I did have a digital photo of the front cover of Auto Car(?) where they put something like " what's as good as a Golf GTi at half the price" showing IIRC a black Rapid 136 which I used to tease Porsche 911 owners I later knew, and didn't know, with as I used to say the Estelle (Rapid) was like the Porsche, and the Estelle was used in a kit as the basis of a Porsche Spyder. ETA: 1979/80 1980/81 is a newish car to me as I had various British "classics" (overpriced and overvalued old) cars as daily drivers for 30 years until last year.

Complete with 80s style sunroof. One of my (new then) Estelle 2s had that style sunroof with IIRC the radio aerial in in, a great Skoda idea that other manufacturers cars didn't have IIRC. My Rapid Estelle 2 had the aerial in the rear screen, good idea until you turned the heated screen switch IIRC, I can't remember if it was that feature or another that was shared with only any car which was a supercar of the time. I had three Estelle 2s in the mid to late 80s so I knew every joke, the sheep like, The Sun readers told, I also added the grille mounted spotlights, and hanging from bumper fogs to one of them.

Has the cambelt been changed? if they’re charging over £1,000 to replace just the pulley bolts (less than £20 of parts, so the rest is presumably labour) then you may as well have them change the cambelt and tensioners whilst they’re at it. Strange pricing as a complete replacement cambelt for a 1.4 TSI is less than £800 at a main dealer and they remove the same bolts anyway. Ask them to perform a cambelt change and save yourself £200+, the bolts are stretch bolts and must be replaced after each removal…

DONT update from 156 to 324. There is a whole procedure for this, if you update without following the procedure you will loose your satnav maps. Ask the dealership to perform the TPI update from 156 to 324.

Its a chain on the EA888

Good news it's under warranty! Maybe have a chat with them about replacing the timing belt whilst they're at it, I can't recall the mileage on your car and they've recently relaxed the guidance on intervals but could be worthwhile.

i spent 10mins driving up and down through 1 of our main compounds to get 200000miles and 200002 (for symmetry) in my mk1 Octy so i wouldnt end up on the motorway getting it (pic is waaaay back in this thread somewhere, about 2014/15, i even lit 2 candles in a muffin for it )

Ignition switch pins 30 - one black wire (to battery) and one orange wire (to radio) 15 - two black wires (to fuse/relay box and ignition coil) P - N/C 50 - yellow (to starter) 16 - two red wires (brake fluid level sensor and lamp)

Apparently around 1300 quid including vat. Covered by warranty <phew> !

Hey, From the workshop manual, it appears you have to remove the infotainment control unit first, then you can unscrew the whole assembly and remove the hose for the A/C vent and airbag switch.

I'm having problems with 3rd gear and R. Inconsistent. Sometimes it shifts into 3rd without any problem, sometimes with a brief "grrrk" sound accompanied with some vibration in the lever. I adjust the clutch grip as close as possible to the bottom. Over the time it gets problematic to shift into R without grinding. When that happens I shorten clutch cable length 1-2mm. It solves the shift to R and eases the 3rd. Recently, the time needed for me to shorten the cable length have dropped. I do it more regularly. I think pressure plate is losing its flexibility. Also, in my case, shifting is flawless when the engine and the gearbox is cold. Worst when I stay in the traffic jam in summer. It shifts better in rain or after water splash from bottom. I have Castrol 80W EP but as I've been told before, on the next gearbox oil change I'll switch to a multi grade one like 75W-90. I'll check the linkage. Complete new assembly is available. https://www.ladaciskodaci.com/skoda-sanziman-vites-ve-difransiyel-vites-kolu-hareket-mili-tesbit-levyesi-komple---12_109346559-6u0711023a_ith Also I think this is the repair kit: https://www.ladaciskodaci.com/skoda-sanziman-vites-ve-difransiyel-vites-hareket-mili-tamir-takimi---12_136736880-6u0711605a_ith

Scandinavia markets can have larger batteries but I'm not sure if this is typical for VAG. It is usual to have plug-in block heaters or fuel fired heaters in very cold countries also. However, I think you'll be surprised at the capability of the battery to start the engine at cold temperatures especially petrol with spark plugs. Many years ago I used to spend my winters in Finland testing diesel starting at cold temperatures & we didn't fit special batteries for the tests.

Our 2016 OE MOL EFB battery finally gave up with a bad cell in October. Still just started unless it went to 0 or below so it sounds like the same issue. It’s been replaced with a RAC branded Varta Silver Dynamic AGM 570 901 076 battery. Very slightly more powerful but at least it should be fine for the next few years.

Sorry but it is always good to RTOM. There are times that with Stop / Start enabled the engine will fire up, that is in the manual as well. Autohold is not Hill Hold Assist, that was a thing and still is for some cars.

That is very likely correct operation of the smart alternator - the only real way to check alternator output on these micro-hybrids is live data on a run - in particular, checking the output while in energy recuperation mode. Another way could be to temporarily disconnect the battery monitoring module on the battery negative clamp.

Welcome. A mod can maybe move your post to the Octavia Section. ? Do you actually want to change the light and change to what? Or is it a bulb needing replaced, or some coding to change how they work?

download then from VW's servers https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/518018-columbus-map-update-2024-mib12-high/