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I know the types, as a pedestrian the blind you too. Oddly most of them here loose their **** if you turn on your mountaineering torch and point it at the same angle they have their lights. Fundamentally the rules are there for all vehicles and actually the problem come from nobody bothering to enforce them. When they’re not actively enforced they might as well not be there as people ignore them. Selling halogen sized LED for off-road use only is a swizz. Bikes with lights up at 5 degrees upwards are not allowed, but common. Rather than new rules straight off, it might be useful to enforce those we have already.

Ordered thermostat Febi 172376 off eBay: £10.94. Removed airbox, battery and battery tray. It might be possible to do this without removing the battery, but I was changing the DSG filter anyway so I did and it made the whole task much easier. Having crimped both hoses, I was able to remove the far hose from the DSG oil cooler then fold the pipe containing what VAG call the "coolant regulator" backwards and underneath the other pipe to the DSG oil cooler which made it much easier to facilitate exchange. Minimal coolant was lost during the process. The thermostat I removed offered no restriction to being blown through and, when dismantled, the wax stat capsule within was seen to have failed. The new unit offered significant restriction, the only flow being through what I presume to be a small hole which allows bleeding of this line. Now the car warms up just as it should, which was just as well as I doubt I would have ever reached the min 35 deg C DSG oil temperature at which the fill level is determined had I left this problem unaddressed. Thanks to the OP and others for describing this problem.

A few more I took during this mornings sunrise.......

Good morning 🌤

ohhh.... lights.... ohhh.. what a subject. i spend a fair chunk of my time driving at night for work, so i get to experience all the fun! personally ive spent a number of yrs with "higher output" / "extra bright" halogen bulbs in my current and last 2 cars. the Philips extremes, Osram Night breakers etc. and, given i currently have standard Osrams back in Donkey and see 0 appreciable difference from the "Night breaker Laser" bulbs they replaced (after a very short life, disappointing on its own) i now see again they are all BS. LED lights on new cars are definitely more blinding. i wonder if, similar to what Root has said, they are coming ex factory set up as LHD focus and not being adjusted when they are delivered in RHD markets until they fail an MOT/NCT? or just badly set in factory and never checked/ adjusted. i cant help notice the people saying they dont see much issues all have usernames alluding to their vehicles being SUVs... thus higher up so, ya know, above the headlight level, of course its going to be less of an issue. but conversely all those SUV and Crossovers (inc missus Mac 's Arona) obviously have higher bulbs shining in us hatchback and saloon drivers' eyes and mirrors. Kias have been horrendous for bad/ too high focus for a few yrs now, imo, and BMW are pretty annoying too. i could be wrong but i also think the sensor for the autodimming Rearview mirrors struggle to adapt to LED/Matrix light sources hitting it at night. but a factor that has to considered is also people's reliance on new driver aids like auto lights and self levelling that dont react properly or too slow is a problem. ban H series LED replacements though, they are just awful...

If the Karoq Sportline wiper has changed, the same as the facelift Kodiaq the blade changed from 13” with a square locking button to 11” with an oblong button. As mentioned above no Bosch replacement has been made available and only option was from dealer. Today I found this on eBay and have ordered one to see what it’s like, put it this way would be hard to be worse than OEM

All these years as co-driver i had my wife or one or my brothers, many times in the back seat i had my parents and in ALL of the instances when i was driving Stock car (stock suspension, no ECU chip or exhaust) i had to drive much slower that i could otherwise i had complains in the turns (in Highway or straight line roads no problem). Every time i was trying even a bit more (in Mountain Roads) the car was like a seesaw (swing) and i felt it personally when i had my Felicia with Stock suspension (stock shock absorbers, stock springs, no strut brace, no anti-roll bar). Routes that i knew like my palm i couldn't enjoy them because every turn i had to take it with low speed otherwise me or my co-driver we were like pendulum, if i was trying a bit more the whole situation was ''shouting'' that the car couldn't and needed upgrades. There wasn't a Dilemma: let it as is, drive slow in Mountain Roads like your father or make upgrades if you want to drive sport style as you like because 2 years before i bought my car i had solve this in my mind. I let the Sport motorcycles in purpose (i still drive a small one) but i decided the Spirit will be continued in cars, why? Because: and the decision was Final no matter i someone didn't like it or not.

So ill break it down for you a bit better, The motor doesnt wind any piston back and forth to start with. The motor winds a ball screw inside that has a plate attached to it. This allows for the motor to push the plate out which pushes the piston out, and when released, only retracts the internal plate allowing the piston to retract on its own like it would in any other braking situation. Next on to the diagnostic side of it, With some good maths by engineers a lot smarter than yourself and I, they have worked out that as a motor begins to increase in torque, the current draw goes up also, and using this principle they have worked out the exact torque to current draw curve of these caliper motors. Why is this relevant? Well you dont want premature wear of the hand brake and caliper components by using too much torque and you dont want too little torque where the pad isnt being pushed hard enough against the disc. When you reengage the motor with a diagnostic tool it actually puts the handbrake on and off about 3 times, this monitors the current draw and sets the exact point it wants the motor to stop to excessive prevent wear on the parts. Now as much as you can get away with using a socket and winding it back yourself and reapplying it yourself, the motor is still using its old stop points and will over torque the motor or under torque it. TLDR; its not all some conspiracy to get you to spend more money for no reason and actually serves a purpose. Its also related to a safety component and it grinds my gears when people try and skip steps/cheap out on them.

It is a supplementary heat booster which uses a large resistor to create cabin heat. The auxiliary heater is a webasto coolant heater located in the engine bay to pre heat the engine and cabin. Regarding your fault, id be checking the condition of whats left of the terminal for a loose connection, and also check the heater resistor for a short circuit which would also cause this.

I wanted to share a solution for a problem I experienced with my 2019 Skoda Rapid 1.0 TSI DSG7, which had no crank no start problem with the ESP fault, hill start assist, TPMS, and gearbox in that order The car wouldn't start, and I discovered that tapping the fuse box next to the battery temporarily resolved the issue, pointing to a problem with the fuse box. I couldnot talk with engine ecu too using vcds Before focusing on the fuse box, I checked each cable and pin connected to it and found everything to be in order. I also inspected each fuse to see if any were defective, but they all seemed fine. During this inspection, I discovered a PCB inside the fuse box, something that isn't widely mentioned online. Despite testing the relays and small resistors on the PCB with my limited knowledge and finding no clear issues, the intermittent starting problem persisted. Ultimately, I decided to replace the entire fusebox with a used one, and this completely resolved all the problems! I'm sharing this because there's scarce information about faulty PCBs in fuse boxes, and I believe this discovery could help others facing similar challenges.

I have a full size wheel ( from a scrap yard) under a variable floor, not a problem with my 2019 octavia estate. Didn't fancy a space saver wheel when towing a caravan.

Yeah i second the above. I factor a 10kwhr charge to actually cost 11. my charger has an app, and 11.5 is probably the most it’s ever taken. That may also include a bit of cabin pre heating if i set it to come on for 15 mins on a cold day.

You're right. But if you can have larger wheels as an option why can't you have smaller wheels as an option? Bearing in mind the state of our roads higher profile tyres much preferable to cope with potholes etc.

That’s just the icon for the Vehicle Status screen, tap it and you can switch views between things like eco rating and other vehicle-related information. its not a warning, notification, or alert symbol.

That's absolutely normal, since you as a user don't have access to all 13 kWh of the battery - have a look at the details in the link: https://www.auto-data.net/en/compare?carId1=38016&carId2=38026&carId3= As far as I knew, the usable capacity of the battery in EV mode is closer to 10,5 kWh - that's what you can see on your dashboard between 0 and 100%. The rest of the capacity is hybrid-system reserved and it will not allow you to use the car in EV mode. Now the 11.5 kWh that you see on the charging App to get from 0% to 100%, doesn't mean that your battery has 11.5 kWh capacity. The capacity is smaller (10 or 10.4 - not sure), but the charging process has an efficiency which is not 100%, therefore, you are using 11.5 kWh from the charging station to store into the battery about 10.5 kWh - which means that about 10% are losses. That's not a fault, but this is how physics work... you might notice that at extreme temperatures (too cold or too hot) the energy losses might increase.

do a FACTORY RESET

You might be surprised how a same colour door from off another Kodiaq won’t match the colour of your Kodiaq, despite being the same colour, if that makes sense. It’ll probably be easier and ultimately a better match if you find any coloured door and have it painted and blended to match your car. There’s a brand new one on eBay for £300, item number 186165063629.

Will be great to see a massive EV car plant in Canada if they can do the deal and if Honda can survive the next couple of years and actually go ahead. We are seeing some big overseas investment but one wonders if they are conditional on some local investment costing us the tax payers to help it happen. Honda's EVs have been a bit of a joke but the have just announced some different cars at the Las Vegas show so maybe the have a chance of surviving to go ahead with the plant. I go pass the Honda Swindon plant and don't hold out great hope that Honda will be successful unless they change course.

A mystery 🤔

When it's off I get the attached, but the blue symbol on the infotainment screen is present whether it's on or off 🤷‍♂️

https://uk.finance.yahoo.com/news/canada-honda-representatives-meet-potential-194655853.html

That’s not too bad. The 16” I have is quite a snug fit. Good luck and send some pics.

More than I thought, my bad. Your quote 2020 data which was a peak and Canada has been slipping down the car producing ladder with it only a bit ahead of the UK paulty 1M cars but UK produces significant high value cars, Aston, Bentley, Mclaren, Rolls as we as mainstream like Nissan. All the companies you mention, maybe with Stellantis having some future with some cheap EVs, are "legacy" auto makers with products which are showing to be less desirable to buyers as we see Toyota losing best selling car from their Camry to the Tesla Model Y, Honda in big trouble with models not selling. Ford, GM, and Chrysler (Stellantis) all with inventory issues and been producing cars at a loss. Canadians buying TESLAs made in US, China and probably will from Mexico when that TESLA factory opens. Sad but countries need a TESLA plant and a supply of real cheap Chinese cars for the low end of the market which are too cheap to make in a high earnings economy.

Canada is one of the world's top 12 producers of light vehicles. Five global OEMs assemble more than 1.4 million vehicles at their Canadian plants each year: Stellantis, Ford, GM, Honda and Toyota. https://ised-isde.canada.ca/site/canadian-automotive-industry/en

Too lazy to clean with contact cleaner, that’s the easy fix that you asked for in your post. Otherwise take to the dealer and let them sort it out or replace with a new item.

It's supposed to be designed to fit inside the spare wheel but it wouldn't have gone inside a skinny space saver. I don't want to trim it unless I make a mess of it and can't take it back. They have a 16" toolkit in stock so I'll try that first. This will do for the meantime.

And there we have it. A full size 18" alloy with 235/45/18 tyre and no cutting of trim to be done. Yes it sits a few cm above the level of the boot floor but that's easily remedied with some foam or the like. What I can't understand though is that the 18" tool kit from Skoda doesn't fit flush inside the wheel. Never mind, I've got a spare scissor jack that can sit inside the wheel. Job done although it is a shame to lose the storage that was in the foam insert.

If it is the eco symbol similar to the one in photo attached, then it shows that the engine is in 2 cylinder mode that occurs on light throttle on a flat surface. https://youtu.be/yoohR8sar5g?si=wPNmfLBd1DheMGyN

Naster, for me it's not just to get to the nearest tyre shop. I'm a self employed taxi driver and if I'm on a fare and have to put on a space saver then my fare terminates there and then. I also can't continue working at all until I have the tyre is repaired. And there's a good chance that my tyre would have to be ordered which means I can't work until the tyre arrives. All this time I'm losing money. Not only that, I tow a caravan and don't want to be towing it with a poxy space saver on my car if I was to have a blow out. I wasn't keen on cutting the trim but I've come round to the fact that I'll get a full size alloy in there and no one but me will know or see that the trim has been cut. If I come to sell the car then I'll explain why I did it and the new owner would have the choice of leaving it as it is or sourcing a new trim from a breaker or whatever.

I bought a 2020 Karoq Sportline last year and that had no spare or spacesaver, just the repair kit. Not sure that’s a hard and fast rule though, might just vary car to car, some have a spacesaver some the repair kit. I managed to source a spacesaver from a member on here and then bought a scissor jack. Enjoy the test drive; don’t be deterred by the ride if it’s fitted with the 19in wheels which aren’t the most comfortable! Lot of discussion on here about those rims - possibly a case of downsizing or swapping the Bridgestones

I've been averaging 4.1 or 4.2 most days on my commute the last couple of weeks. Heating on, heated seats on, heated steering wheel on.

It's funny statement, when yourself, you don't trust someone like @ApertureS who works everyday on VAG cars AFAIK. I've never changed my rear pads on my Mk3, but I should need to do it soon. I think I'll follow @ApertureS recommendations to use VCDS rather than listen to someone who only did it twice on a Skoda, with all due respect.

It's the eye in the sky... I'm sure Alan Parsons wrote a song about it... 🤣

Sorry but thats all wrong and confusing The front assist radar behind the grill is used for adaptive cruise control and front assist. The same part is used for whether it has one or the other or both and its controlled through coding and SWaP codes. ACC doesnt use a camera. The camera in the windscreen is used for lane assist, high beam assist, traffic sign recognition and pedestrian detection. The windscreen camera comes in two levels a low line which is just in the rear view mirror and this ONLY does high beam assist, or the high line in the top of the windscreen which does all the features. A car can have one without the other.

Sorry i'm not a mechanic. The part looks like this

Hi Rooted I think a friend of mine who had an Octavia first mentioned Victoria Garage then I think you did but it was very close together.. Sadly they only sell second hand cars not new....They did offer to buy my last Skoda and offered an extremely good price.. But they have serviced the last two of my Skoda s coming up to 6 years now . The sales man at "a certain garage " was going to get back to me last week to give me a rough price for my car........ but has not bothered... mmmmm nothing changes...

??

Canada is struggling with EV's

I know what you mean I just wonder whether things are starting to get better as I've seen a few reviews now of the ewer compact H7 Led drop-ins that seem to suggest the beam pattern is very close to Halogens. There is also the Osram Nightbreaker LED that is street legal in most EU countries as a retrofit for a lot of vehicles.

other things ive noticed with the newer light systems are that they over power older lights. so, the light from , say an Octy 2's H7 halogens just gets eradicated by the higher energy photons from oncoming leds so you lose the visual range of even tracking along the verge for a line and spotting pedestrians and cyclists at the road edge, but also the number of times I have passed new vehicles with Xenon or matrix headlights that then even when dimmed are so bright (and highly aimed) that im driving along with their lights casting a shadow of my car in front of me because they just totally swamp the halogens in blue toned light until i get on down the road and open a bit of space is getting more frequent. Though, tbh even led street lights overpower halogens in lots of places i drive through and definitely reduce the ar eas my lights are illuminating for my sight line - the shadows are wrong for where im looking if that makes sense? ultimately factory LED and Xenon are much better for "the driver using them" but a bit 5hit for everyone else around them, while Halogens are just 5hit for everyone. manufacturers just need to work on finding a better balance on the led and xenon systems. led retrofits H series are tempting if like me you spend a lot time in the dark and know the Halogens are crap and want better, but i wont get them because i know their crap for everybody else.

Do you have the auxiliary heater?

If you get stuck it's possible to just clean it. I did the same the other month on ours. Had to remove the button which is very easy. Bit of disassembly of the button like this: Fixed my issue.

I can’t see how this could work. The EPB and the piston are kind of separate entities. Yes you can push the piston in but it will be blocked by the EPB which is on a worm drive. I don’t see any way of retracting the EPB manually. I used VCDS - it is a simple process, and when you have finished and put the EPB back to normal more, it does a bit of chuntering whilst it works out the bite point of the brake. I have heard of people getting around using a diagnostic tool by disconnecting the EPB cable and applying 12v directly to the motor, but this seems so much more difficult than just using a diagnostic tool, with lots of scope for causing damage. Once the EPB is retracted, you just push the piston back in.

It is completely normal for the drivers side camber to be more negative than the passenger side because that spring has taken a set and is slightly shorter.

42kWh is a fair chunk of most EVs batteries (50/60kWh) and you'd need to do a fair daily distance to be not able to keep it topped up at a home charger for cheap rate. Public EV charge costs have gotten ridiculous in some cases; when I first had the PHEV, I was charging for free at loads of places, which was unsustainable and a host of issues. I now won't charge in public unless it's around the home price. In Canada and the US I had a Tesla on rental and the network of supercharging was great, dead easy to use and cheap (compared to UK rates). In terms of my PHEV I tend to get 30-35 miles in summer and 25 miles in winter. My commute is hilly and stop start which is terrible even in an ICE (the Karoq gave me awful economy at times) and I think the EV has saved me a good chunk of cash.

A few from Attenborough nature reserve. Lots of detritus from recent flooding, but glad to see the place appears to be large intact ................

A fairly safe bet to say that if his lips were moving the words coming out were not true, occasionally by coincidence the BS generator does come out with something truthful. The rivnuts will be present in the structure underneath the roof skin, factory shells with the roof rail option specified are built using a pre-pierced roof panel for the rails to be fitted further down the line, those without have the plain roof but the fixings remain underneath it. The dealers can retrofit roof rails and there is a drilling template made for the job, however their only interest is selling finance and to a lesser degree warranties, the vehicles are just a vehicle (pun intended) to do that and having to (be seen to) offer (begrudging) after sales service is the cost of doing business.

If you find the Skoda rims expensive, then look at others eg Borbet. They have a handy tool on their website which offers compatibility (same bolts, no adapters etc) I have a Seat Arona, came with 215/45 R18, and still have the original summer tyres on them, which have done about 30k miles (5.5 year old) still got about 4mm tread on all 4 (they get switched around each change, deepest tread front left as it wears fastest due to roundabouts, slowest wear is rear right). No cracking either as not used in cold weather when micro cracks start I have 205/60 R16 Goodyear Ultragrip 9+ on Borbet Y rims, basically same car as Kamiq under the bodywork (as is VW T-cross) so wheel choices are interchangeable. It is more comfortable on poor roads on the 16s than 18s

There's six different 16" alloy rims for the Kamiq listed here https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/alu-kola/c/alloyWheels?sort=priceAsc&q=%3AscoreDesc%3AcarType%3AKamiq%2B%282019%2B%29# Here's two of those 16" alloy rims. The format xxx071xxx for the OEM part number shows that it's from the accessory catalogue. Hence, their price is about £150 each. Just give the OEM part number to a VAG parts department and they should be able to give you the UK price. 6Jx16 ET35 5/100 57.1 alloy rim 654071496B 8Z8 6Jx16 ET35 5/100 57.1 alloy rim 654071496C FL8

OK, now its stopped raining and ive got some daylight I've had a bit of a mess around with the door. I've figured out that no matter how many times i pull the outside handle it was never going to open. Mainly because, the "Mechanic" who owned the car before me had disconnected the cable from the door handle. So I removed the little plastic cover next to the handle and was able to get a very stiff coat hanger wire through the gap between the pulled open handle and the part of the handle assembly that stays still when you pull it. There is a useful video here showing what the problem actually is. It explains why the lock is not re setting, because the lever shown in the video is not returning all the way back. So I got in with my thick coat hanger and generally pushed everything back that I could get it planted on. Then opened the window so I could yank away at the inside door handle whilst double pressing the key unlock and hey presto, it popped open! I closed it, locked it and tried again but it failed. So i poked and pressed a bit more and did the same thing with the door handle/key, and it worked again. Ive since given the door some serious slams and now it seems to work every time or thereabouts. At least now I know I can get the door open so I can strip it down and sort it, probably by removing the spring as shown in the video and re connecting the external door pull cable. Hope this helps you out simontaylor.