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Been more than 3 months since Gandalf had a wash 😕 Happy with how shiny it still turns out, despite being almost 7 yrs old 😁

I bought my Octavia SE 1.0 litre in August 2019 when it was coming up to a year old. I had to think long and hard before part exchanging it for a Karoq SE Drive a few weeks ago. The Karoq is also just over a year old. I have to say that the Octavia was probably the best car I have ever owned. I have had many Fords in the past. My previous 4 cars have been Fabias but for all round comfort, space, performance and reliability, the Octavia was the best (even with the 1.0 litre engine). My only problem was the rear washer kept getting bunged up but apart from that, no problems. Once the car was out of warranty I avoided main dealer servicing. My local independent did the oil and filter changes with me providing the genuine VW spec oil. As part of the trade in deal, I removed the full size spare wheel and toolkit with the intention of putting it into the Karoq or selling it (I thought it might not fit which it doesn't). I'll put it on ebay in the next few days. I bought a skinny spare and tools which fit the Karoq perfectly. A gunge kit is little more than useless in my opinion. So far the Karoq has been fine. Getting in and out is much easier than the Octavia but you would expect that. The Karoq forum has answered a few queries I had, how the automatic handbrake works being the most important. I'll keep an eye on the Octavia forum in case I am able to contribute to the discussions. Thank you.

Battery. The first sign of a failing battery is the Stop/Start stops working. Might have something to do with the other faults as well.

Down on the canal

Hi everybody sorry for the late reply, This is a non black box policy. In my person opinion I think it’s better regardless of money spent but when I first got my insurance it was 4K for black box 6K for normal policy. since I’ve checked quotes and prices have dropped DRASTICALLY talking about 3k for non black box policy I think unfortunately I’ve jumped in at the wrong time. since this post I’m now paying around 6.7K Annually due to vehicle mods (back box delete) which isn’t good but I can afford it (barely) I can’t stop my policy and opt for anything else because of down payments and whatever else it’s basically the same as paying for my whole current policy. so just going to have to tough it out looking to do plenty more mods and will see about the insurance company pricing up these mods.

I'd never recommend anyone having my lease car after I've had it for a few years 😅 If it was a normal none ev they get serviced and fixed mostly if anything goes wrong. So should be mechanically sound. However I treat my EV bad and its stopped charging in last 2 days (going in next Monday for Investigation). Because its not mine I plug It in every night to charge battery to 100% as it saves me petrol. Some days it sits on drive for 48hrs+ with full battery. After 3 or 4 years of that I don't think the battery will be the best. Other people I know with them don't have home charger so they only charge while driving. Think when it comes to EV it will be pot luck on what you get

New 19" wheels for the car. Satin black with lamborghini bronze lips.

I dont think that is true, a 500000 mile diesel will in general sound no more knocky than a 200000 mile one, I have yet to experience a petrol engine at half that mileage that still sounds sweet, most are scrapped before they get that far, they have remarkable longevity compared to pre 90's petrol and diesel engines but its still the diesels that rack up the huge mileages. One of the reasons is that the cylinder blocks, crankshafts, connecting rods, pistons etc are much more robust to cope with the higher compression ratio and combustion pressure, the common factor for modern engine longevity of both fuel types is detergent fuels, modern synthetic or synthetic based oils, better machining processes and ECU control of fuelling and ignition advance.

And another useful link bud...

And some photos at night.

Common problem that, had the same on 3 out of 4 in mine so far. the door lock/switch will need to be replaced, had all of mine done under warranty and hoping the 4th one will go before September so I can get a full house before renewal time! I would advise getting it sorted before it ends up either unable to unlock or lock - I’ve had both happen to me and that’s not fun!!

A long and extremely wet drive today to Auckland for Collecting Cars coffee run. Met up with John who very kindly gave me a petrol cap that keeps the petrol in!!

Back in 2015/2016, there was "Feed in tariff". my was installed Oct 2015, receive ~15p/kWh generation + deemed 50% export at pittance. It's not the export they are banking on, it's the generation and government money. I can highly recommend getting one of these to monitor generation so you can better utilise it. https://docs.openenergymonitor.org/applications/solar-pv.html Commenting on your points: - Tyres will definitely last over 10k miles. My are OEM still over 6mm, I think they were 7mm new, my LR AWD car has done 12k so far, a lot of motorway miles as over 2/3 of my commute is on motorway at "70" mph, and we drive Leaf locally. - Road noise is more than 2006 Mercedes C class I've had and more than 2014 Nissan Leaf. Slightly better than previous 2013 Octavia on road noises. Difference is that MY is very well insulated up top with double glazing, but road noise comes in all the same as speeds pick up. - Ride jiggly-ness is highest in any car I've driven. Overall ride comfort for 2022 MY LR on 19inch (smallest default) about the same as 2013 torsion beam Octavia on 18 inch wheels (biggest option, ex showroom car). From early 2023, there had been a "comfort suspension" tweak. I've not driven one to compare. But it is possible to do retrofit at cost of around £1500 including new OEM parts and labour by Cleevley (I enquired, decided it's not bad enough to worth the money and effort) - Model 3 2024 refresh is very well reviewed in the noise dampening compartment as well as ride comfort. I think it's more to do with use of noise dampening material, or complete lack of for first-gen 3/Y. It is well known that their first US factory has worst build quality. All Model S/X and early 3 are from this factory. Texas factory is a big improvement. Shanghai factory cars are very well built, we get them here from 2021 onwards. Berlin factory cars are about same or slightly better than Shanghai plant for build quality. Paint quality is said to be miles better. They are the only factory that produces quicksilver paint option 😍

Glorious weather today 😎

The Goodyear Vector 4Seasons is still a good tyre and I used them on a Yeti a few years ago. However, when buying all-season tyres for our Karoq Sportline 1.5 last month, I decided against them for 3 reasons: 1. They are said by some people in the tyre trade to have thinner sidewalls than the competitors, making them more susceptible to pothole and kerb damage. 2. When I was shopping last month, the 4Seasons Gen 3 (the current tyre) was on sale in very few places; most places were still selling the 4Seasons Gen2. Moreover, according to this page, the 4Seasons Gen 3 is not being made in the 225/45 R19 size: https://www.thetirelab.com/goodyear-vector-4seasons-gen-3/ 3. Compared to more recent designs, the perfomance of the Goodyear 4Seasons is now a bit middling. See https://www.tyrereviews.com/Article/2023-Auto-Bild-All-Season-Tyre-Test.htm Instead I bought the Bridgestone Turanza All Season 6, the newest of the all-season designs, having gone on sale in 2023. It is nothing like the rather hard summer tyres that one is used to seeing from Bridgestone. Our Karoq with 19-inch Vega wheels came on a set of those summer Bridgestones (225/40 R19 Turanza T005) and I couldn't wait to get them off. On the Turanza All Season 6, the ride is transformed as well as the grip. For one example, sometimes I can't feel cats' eyes, only hear them. Some will say why not go for the obvious choice, the Michelin CrossClimate 2? The original CrossClimate revolutionised the all-season tyre market and is the best-selling all-season tyre in Europe. It still wins many comparative tests -- on several criteria but not all. In particular it beats all competitors on snow perfomance. Michelin optimised snow performance to a remarkable extent in moving from the original CrossClimate to the CrossClimate Plus and then the CrossClimate 2. They know their market. The tyre is aimed at all those parts of Europe that get more snow than we do and appeals to people who can use it to get snow performance almost equal to a winter tyre without the bother of swopping from summer to full winter tyres. But - and it's a big but - Michelin optimised the tyre's snow performance by reducing performance on cold wet roads, both in braking and in lateral grip. Does that suit the UK market? How many days of snow per year do you get where you live? Maybe none, maybe two or three? Now how many days are there with cold wet roads? Fifty? A hundred? The Turanza All Season 6 beats the CrossClimate 2 easily for wet braking and wet handling. That makes it a better choice for much of the UK, I suggest. However, I did not replace the 225/40 R19s with 225/45 as you are contemplating. Instead I went for 245/40 R19. That size is a Skoda-approved tyre as one of the factory fitments to Crater wheels for the 4x4 Karoq. Some dimensions: 225/40 R19 -- 89 mm sidewall height, 481 revs/km 225/45 R19 -- 102 mm sidewall height, 465 revs/km, a 3.46% increase in circumference 245/40 R19 -- 99 mm sidewall height, 469 revs/km, a 2.55% increase in circumference. A tyre does not get its final width until mounted on a rim. Widths when mounted on 8J rims will (I think - open to correction!) be 230 mm for the 225 tyre, 242 mm for the 245 tyre. So the 245 in use is 12 mm wider than the 225, not 20 mm as one might think. Thus if you choose 245/40 instead of 225/45 as you were contemplating, you will get 12 mm more width at the rim (6 mm each side) for better kerbing protection, only 3 mm less sidewall height than the 225/45 but still 10 mm more than the 225/40, so adding a useful amount to the ride improvement given by the softer all-season tyre, and a bit less of an unwelcome speedo error. 245 tyres will use a little more fuel than 225 but that will be offset by the small increase in gearing, not that you'd notice either change. In conclusion, the Turanza All Season 6 tyres in 245/40 R19 suit our 1.5 Karoq perfectly and have transformed its comfort and its grip on winter roads. I also regard their size as looking better suited to the car. You could of course get an even softer ride by fitting smaller wheels, but I didn't have the money to spend on that as well as tyres. With the right tyres the 19" wheels are quite OK. I must thank those who have posted here in the past on the tyre threads for helping me reach a good decision, particularly Carlston.

9am UK (10am CET) on 14th Feb Will be on this site https://newskodaoctavia.com/

Spot on. Although with rear independent suspension, expect the alignment shop to land you with a big bill when the steel bolts are seized in the aluminium bushes 😞 The rear can be adjusted on toe, castor and camber by movement of the complete subframe and 2 eccentric bolts. The front can be adjusted on toe and camber by a tie rod and movement of the complete subframe. (Rear torsion bars cant be adjusted at all except for a very minimal amount of rotation to get the axle running straight ahead to prevent crabbing.)

To finish this off, the elevation is now working after first drive.

Fair enough, honest answer too. I've no idea how strict these things are allowing for speedo errors and errors in other electronic stuff, it would sharpen your observation perhaps but I can understand you want your head a bit. Problem with modern cars is that they are so capable they're boring and the more capable, fast and quick they are the more boring they are at legal speeds, they rob the driver of driver input and feedback sensations. Two ways round this I think, keep your road car for the road, forget most upgrades and mods, as Rooted has put many of them aren't upgrades or overall or specific improvements some are just differences and some workout to decrease specific or overall performance or opposite of improvements. Instead spend your money on going in track cars days/sessions (in other than your car) if you like to see needle figures (modern track cars are still boring to me but I'm not into such stuff). Having a blackbox fitted would mean more to spend on track stuff. Or you could take track instruction which should also help your road driving. This will get the rush out of your system a bit and time and road insurance higher costs will pass a bit. A way to have more fun I think is to get a smaller, lighter, less powerful probably much older car with the minimum of driver aids and creature comforts and unnecessary necessities so that you can and have to drive the car harder getting more noise and driver feedback from the standard car without the need for the exhaust to be loud to hear it through the car's insulation and a giant entertainment system. Think of much on a modern car, it that adds weight, numbs and insulates the driver from the noises and sensations of driving and actually driving the car for themselves. The more you can lose of those as they're not fitted the better generally. Might take a bit of getting used to at first but then you'll find want you've been missing as a driver by having so much added to the road cars to reduce what the driver needs to do. I appreciate this is difficult for you to understand (apart from my poor descriptive writing) without experiencing it for yourself - there again being your generation it might not be you being more used to more indirect experience enjoyment but if you don't get it soon-ish I think it'll all disappear for at least a good while if not disappear all together. Modern cars are for old-farts not youngsters like us. 😁

Which engine have you which will give an idea to which DSG you have, so a 2.0 TSI or TDI and a 6 speed Wet clutch DSG.? If it is Coasting Mode that you are asking about when Eco selected? It will not harm the DSG as whatever it does in disengaging drive was designed to do what it does.

Hi all. I know I've jumped on this topic a little late but hopefully someone is out there who can answer.I have a 2016 L&K Superb and am really happy with it.Anyway this past Xmas I got an aftermarket head unit from.... Duh duh duh China.Long story short got the car booked in and was told later that day it wasn't compatible with the car due to the wiring.They said it was to do with the Canton system using optical cables that alas were not supplied with the unit.How disappointed was I.In the meantime the installation company were awaiting to hear from a supplier based in NL for an interface.I heard from them today and told me there is an interface that will do the job but it will cost over £900 for part and install😬.I've actually sent the unit back now as it was over £500 and with the install of the interface it's getting on for £1400.I'm now thinking of changing the MiB glove box and old button screen for the more aesthetically pleasing to the eye touchscreen.If anyone has done this or knows if they are compatible with Canton/L&K before I possibly phone Skoda or look into E Bay for a price or whether to cut my losses and stick with what I have. Again I saw this thread and thought to tag onto it in the hope of some guidance/knowledge as I'm not good at this kind of stuff at all Hope to hear guys.

Thanks! I did try the wired connection yesterday but it doesn't override the bluetooth profile so I need to delete the connection and try again. I do leave Wi-Fi switched on all the time but then I have done with every device and phone combination before the Superb and never had an issue before...

Firstly, a/ Take off each door card in turn b/ Carefully remove or roll up out of the way the plastic sheet (remember to put it back in place before replacing door card). c/ Inside all 4 door shells you will see a multi-plug for the harness d/ Unplug the two halves and inspect for any contact corrosion. e/ If they look ok give both halves a good squirt of contact cleaner and re-connect. f/ Finally carefully wrap the connector block in a plastic sheet using ty-wraps, paying special attention to get a good seal around the cable harness, this is where the water gets in. NB: What happens is water / condensation runs down the cable harness and collects in the multi-plug (these are not water proof) and causes corrosion on the contacts. Some owners have even found that on or more connector pins have completely rotted away. (Replacement pins/sockets are commercially available).

As i understood, issue with the front parking sensors animation. But still, as mentioned in another discussion try to update firmware, you can do it by yourself for free.

I can't recall, but the topic has been well covered here: (if you search) There were 2 side pieces that supported a floor, all easy to bolt on, IIRC. https://www.upownersclub.co.uk

It looks like it think I'm going to be heading down that route. Whole thing is bloody confusing now if you look at a ZF box. Nobody ever complaints but thank you for input guys. Much appreciated Machu appreciated to everybody that help me in my dilemma. Looks like I might head down the route of buying a manual

The gearbox specialist who rebuilt our 6 speed Octavia manual box has seen and rebuilt hundreds of auto boxes. He describes the 6 speed Wet DSG as a sublime design and a fantastic bit of engineering. His opinion of the 7 speed dry clutch DQ200 is that it is a load of rubbish. But says he doesn't complain as he gets so many in for repair its bread and butter for him. If you actually research what's involved in a Dq200 clutch change youll find its complex requiring specialist tools and skills. I see there are actually 2 generations of DQ200, maybe the gen 2 is a significant improvement on the gen 1.

previously i have reported about Mid3 compilation contains less relevant pictures, that weren't correct info - in later experiments, i got this how to, for logos which are changed: 1. them must be deleted from Menu -> Logos 2. reboot head unit by long press of power button 3. add new logo under Menu -> Logos

Have it on my Graphite Grey and I think it looks brill. I got a set of VRS puddle lamps from Aliexpress that cost £12 delivered - can't post a link as seller no longer offers them.

The thing is Rooted, if you look for ultimate reliability then you’ll never get anything except maybe a 20 year old Toyota Corolla base model with manual gearbox that has been dry stored from new ! My overall point to Diljit was that if you’re worried about dsg reliability then get a manual. I wouldn’t single out one type of dsg (2020 onwards) as worse than another.

Are you sure it is just fuel on the plug. The photos suggest oil as well.

Is that really true? I assumed the wet clutch variants (particularly DQ250) were the most common.

Checked my 2020 (69 plate) and I have a recall now, I assume for the DSG thing as none of the other superb recalls ever showed up before when searching using numberplate. Booked in for Wednesday next week to check, was told I can still drive the car it's "not likely to explode"

Thanks Rooted. From a quick glance at these documents it seems that any 3 year old car will be out of warranty, and in any case the transfer of warranty only applies to private individuals and not to cars owned by a business. The info is really useful - it makes me more cautious. 10 years ago we bought an ex hire Passat estate with high mileage at an excellent - but it was a diesel. We didn't have too many concerns as the sale was from a very reputable dealer. Any we've had 10 years of hassle free ownership. We just think that a petrol engined PHEV might not be such a safe buy unless we know something of its history.

I had the Koni’s fitted to my 280 a year ago and have done 13k on them with no issues so far. Handling was hugely improved for my local bumpy roads and driving style as I found the standard shocks tended to allow a dangerous amount of uncontrolled bouncing that seemed to get worse and worse when pushing on to the point I felt I was going to lose it! Since fitting it’s never felt like that and I do like to use the power frequently!

generally - if it makes more than 250 Nm, then it will have a wet-clutch DSG (DQ250 6-spd or DQ380/381 7-spd). the lower powered engines come with the dry clutch DSG, i.e. the DQ200 7-spd.

If you know which engine and wattage you’re getting, but also 4X4 or not.

2.0l engine = wet clutch DSG 6 or 7 speed depending on exact engine and model year

Hi Admitting if you are stud at the side of cars on tick over you would be able to tell the difference, but when you are in the car driving you won't tell any difference. I much prefer a diesel

Redpoll ,taken through kitchen window as everytime i went out it buggered off 😁

Easiest way to get the skoda history is by using the live chat on Skoda's own contact us page (https://www.skoda.co.uk/discover/contact-us) I'm also looking to buy and have got the history of a good 10+ cars this way. They'll email you a pdf on the spot. Be warned though - the history is often pretty vague and doesn't give you much detail, which I've found frustrating.

I have it on my Steel Grey.

dropped another set of €€€ on oil service, new battery (+ coding) and haldex oil (and sieve) change. The difference is astounding. It's very icy up here, I can provoke slides on essentially every corner - and now the power transfer is imperceptible. I didn't realise how obvious it was before. I will be getting this done more frequently in the future than every three years, that's for sure. Oh. and now a rear shock is leaking. So, bearing in mind I have the "rough road package" (+15mm), what can I fit? B12 seems reasonable, but the B6 dampers are relatively cheap (no DCC). €700 seems OK for dampers. H&R ARBs front and rear would be good, too... hmm...

Parked up today. Can't believe how massive cars are these days. I could hardly get out. It makes me want an even smaller car!

Note that rear wiper and washer only works when tailgate is closed.

Open it up, itll be rusty and need a clean. Mine worked fine after this.

Look into it, the advice might be occasional use. What is the difference once a month from once a day? I am plugged in with a max 10 amp draw for 12-15 hours sometimes charging the EV with 18-30 kWh.

Hello there! here a new user, fantastic car. I think, to drive something with such a good quality of driving, smoothness, comfort, silence... you need to spend a serious amount of money and go for BMW Serie 5, MB E Class, Audi A6, Volvo S90... I was considering a Passat GTE variant (twin brother of this superb, same plug in engine). But the space is much better in the Skoda and the build quality is, at least the same as the "premium" VW, if not superior... Its a 2020 Superb combi iv.

I believe the Octavia is the same as the Kodiaq, and the only way to stop the random rear window wiper operation is to untick the rear wiper in reverse option. If you untick the automatic wiping in the rain option as in above post it turns of the front windscreen automatic wiper option.