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Pumped hydro storage, battery farms, home and workplace battery storage, hotels with battery storage. Vehicles used to store electricity in there batteries. All these things happen now and just need expended on. The generating of the electricity has been and is still simple enough. It is just really a case of use it, maybe producing hydrogen when there is over generation and storage. All the other stuff can happen if it ever does.

In Friday I picked up the car. They say the repair cost 1,100 euros, everything was done, the engine head was machined, all rocker arms and hydraulic lifters were replaced, as well as camshafts. The repair was covered by the car dealership where I bought the car, they turned out to be fair and honest! These days, weeks, I checked the car wherever I could, CarVertical, I also found a Belarusian website KA.BY for 1.2 euros, which gives you the mileage of the car based on the VIN number and then you can request an extended report. Everything indicates that the mileage is genuine, 161,000 km. Also, the vehicle is very well maintained. I have no idea what happened, when I bought the vehicle, a major service was done even though it has higher mileage, they say it was done just as a precaution because it doesn't cost them much, and they provide a warranty on the engine, so they want to be more confident. Maybe the mechanic messed up something then, or maybe the service was done because of some accident that wasn't adequately repaired, I don't know, that will remain a mystery. In addition, the injectors have been checked, they're excellent. Nearly 2 weeks of great nervousness, stress, negotiations, they're behind me now, may it not happen again. Moving on, I hope the quality of Skoda will now show... Thanks to everyone who participated in the discussion and commented, every comment was useful in its own way!

Nuclear fusion, just like green hydrogen fuel cell vehicles, are just 10 years away..... for the last 40 years.

Boot loaded up with new suspension and steering parts, with carefully positioned impact protection! I have bought the majority of the parts from VWSpares who have been amazing to deal with, mostly Lemförder, with a couple of Febi Bilstein items, and all new nuts and bolts from VAG bolts on eBay. Tie Rods/Ends/Gaiters Control Arms & PSB Console bushes Ball Joints Drop Links ARB Bushes Bilstein B4 Shocks Eibach Pro-Kit Bump Stops/Dust Shields Top Mounts Upper & Lower Rear Spring Seats Booked in for a service, along with fitting of the suspension and wheel alignment 🤓

Test. Not on a mobile.

I watched this very video just a few weeks ago and if it wasn't for people like Charles Algernon Parsons with the courage, the guts and finances to press on after his attempt failed and his brave attempt at changing the Admiralty's reluctance to have another look at his invention than there is a good chance that ships could have been powered like this one for much longer then they were.

So managed to find bits of spare time today to have at the rear seats. So one thing the workshop manual neglects to mention (or maybe it's mentioned somewhere away from the interior section), is when the rear seat bench (the lower bit) has Isofix attachments: So the workshop manual says to lift up from the front with sharp upwards direction, then some wiggling to get the bench free, but not mentioning that these clips are probably in the way first. So if anything this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VTj0yUAYew nails the steps required. It's for a Golf R, but it's nigh on the same car (right?!) and the steps are actually the same. So essentially, looking at bit closer: The mankiness in this clip will need to be sorted later, but the clips have a sorta angle in its groove meaning a tug from the underside upwards is enough to free them: Lo and behold it starts coming loose and then pops free, to be pulled out, do so for all four: Then, as per the YouTube video, sorta use your knee or something to get some purchase to push the bench slightly back, and then upwards in a U like shape, and eventually: Do the same for the other side: You'll then be presented with a couple of electrical connectors, so free those, and that should the bench freed. This then reveals the central seat belt anchor mounting: This was a 17mm nut, so undo that, and then disconnect the electrical connector. This one is a little fiddly, there's a tiny tab to be pulled away on one of the connectors whilst being pulled. A thin screwdriver and some delicacy should suffice. The next step to remove the backrests is the removal this central part, which is really there to keep the seats from popping out. It firstly comprises a plastic cover: The video showed it pulling out by hand quite easily, but I had to use a tool: Which subsequently made the cover pop out and fly around the rear of the car: But its removal reveals the bolt for the main metal bit that keeps the seats in place. This was a T30 torx: Once removed, the metal black part that does the work can then be removed. I had to do some wiggling and messing around with the seat back rests in order get it free, and I may have bent or damaged some of the backrest plastic doing so: Regardless, there's now nothing to stop the backrests from being removed. They both sit on the hinge in the middle, and without the metal clip, can be lifted up: With one side lifted up, you can then wiggle it away from the side of the car: The white stub can be seen in the above, which is what the seat locates into. Disconnect the wiring from the backrest: Then repeat for both sides, and the seats are then freed: Once the seats were removed and placed aside, I noticed this: Decided to remove this vent from the centre console, looks like a stray foot or ham fist pulled off the left side tab thingy. I imagine sourcing a replacement is probably easier than attempting some repair. Looks like 3V0 819 203 A. Once I had another spare moment, I went over the seats with a damp rag, with some elbow grease on stubborn bits, then gave it a go with some Leather Cleaner. Auto Glym stuff which was lying around the garage: If I'm keeping this car long term, I'll probably have to arrange a leather guy to do some spot repairs, just a few little imperfections, but otherwise perfectly functional and comfy. With the seat backrests in front of me and easily inspected, I started to think about the seat release from the boot, and to be honest, am pretty stumped. I started to look at the rear and peel it away, using a hair dryer to add some heat to loosen the glue: At this point, I was expecting to see some sort of opening, or something to indicate how it might be possible to retrofit the bowden cables. However, I couldn't immediately see it, so I chickened out and have patted the rear cover back onto the contact adhesive. I sense I will need to be even more destructive to get at it, probably needing to remove that side padding completely to get anywhere. If anyone has any reference pics at this stage, I would greatly appreciate it! Maintenance: £1468.47 Upgrades: £681.11 Miscellaneous: £584.95

Charles Algernon Parsons, decades ahead of is time........ (even though named Algernon)...........

Indeed the above is true and I also seem to recall everyone saying that that space flight was impossible and that man could never set foot on the moon and yet both happened. Yeah, I saw 2001 a Space Oddysey as a teenager too. Vaguely seem to recall the spacecraft taking people to the earth orbit space hotel was made by Boeing, without doors opening unexpectedly. No signs of Elon there unless he was one of the angry apes beating an AI monolith with a stick.

This very new, but very dusty set arrived from Sweden today, always thought it odd to have front guards but not rear!

Thermodynamics tends not to though.

🤣🤣🤣 We just need to find a way to disobey the 1st law of thermodynamics!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It can never be done efficiently the energy used to create the hydrogen and oxygen will always be more than that liberated by the combustion. It can be done by burning oil or through solar power, both are free resources but with a cost to extract, both give far better efficiency being used to directly propel the vehicle than from creating hydrogen fuel.

It was a £1 coin! Which the wife swiftly snatched off me. Easy come easy go! Will see if I can crack on with the rear seats should I get a brief lull in weather and work.

overtook a world record speedboat travelling down the M6 as we returned from a week in Scotland coming back down the M6 today from a week away up near Oban we spotted this beauty travelling down the M6 https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-68489654

Yes, I think someone has already posted this or similar before. Nothing new in that, even ICE manufacturers inflate their claims, although I'm not aware of any having lawsuits against them except for Tesla who has or is facing a such an event over the perceived poor ranges that some owners are getting. That maybe because the response is so quick to the right foot actions that drivers are being over enthusiastic with the blistering performance on tap that they are just expecting to get that performance with no impact on the range?

@wyx087 So it does I just tried it, thanks so now J.R. and myself know how do that, thanks

Most recentish Skoda/VAG cars can be locked with no interior protection or deadlocking by pressing the lock button twice. The car will be locked but no flashing red light. It's what I do when I drive onto a ferry!

The shale bings have almost gone. The coal mines and other mines are not cleaned up but looks like will now be used for thermal energy. The open cast mines are being cleaned up. The nuclear still has to be, reactors and nuclear deterrents reactors. What a bunch of mucky pups the population have been for the past century and longer. All while getting cheapish energy...

See this was very helpful and good comment and I honestly appreciate that. I didnt know almost anything about what you wrote in your last comment. It was truly well written and explained. I have read some of your comments and they were helpful. It did not offend me, but from my point of view it looked like you came and wrote a comment how you are right and know what’s the best and how someone else who just asks questions is wrong and silly Ye right, “macho man” is just a satire on society. I don’t consider 18” big since Skoda sells xtreme 19”. The wheel arches are big and I currently have 17” and it feels like I could go 1 inch up just to get that sporty look on the outside. The thing was I don’t really like the vRS ones, but love the Superb 18” they are classy and sporty at the same time. I will check how much clearance I have when I put the summer 17” then decide if I will get a set of 18” and refurbish them. Thanks again for giving me advice edit: I really like the karoq ones that @Carlston suggested above. They remind me of the Passats 18” which I also like. But I can’t find any used ones for sale at the moment 😞

What point would that be? If your example is about affordable, then I’m sorry to say green hydrogen will never be as cheap as powering directly with battery. Battery powered cars will always be cheaper to run by the simple fact it’s more efficient.

I will just move the fan housing to the right side above the brake master cylinder, offset if you know what I mean. I will post some pictures in a couple of days so you can see exactly what I mean.

It was rhetorical. Porsche use the term "Turbo" just to state it is a performance version, no exhaust blown compressor, no supercharger just immensely powerful electric motors and battery packs.

It was a chap called Frederick Wilson Taylor who was the brilliance that Henry Ford and many other production facilities used his techniques of industrial engineering in the principals of scientific management. Ford was a businessman who used those principals that Taylor explained.

Today I've picked up Vibra-technics engine and gearbox mount Street performance All black anodized and zinc plated parts will be painted in RAL 5002 -ultra marine Blue,as all other components and alu parts will be covered with clear laquer to avoid oxidation Soon time to instal lota of bits (15.3.2024) SPEC stage 3+ SV363F clutch To be balanced with SPEC flywheel ARP M10x25mm flywheel bolts KW top hats Vibra-Technics engine and gearbox mounts Pinion brace reinforcement

Most Powerful Porsche ever......... (Keep looking at the spec but just cannot find the Turbo on it, any ICE fans know where it is ?? ) With up to 1,092 horsepower, it takes just 2.1 seconds for the Turbo GT to reach 60 mph. All told, the Taycan Turbo GT is the most track-capable Taycan the company has built to date. And it already has the accolades to prove it. On February 23, the Turbo GT Weissach completed a lap of WeatherTech Raceway Laguna Seca in 1:27.87—faster than any other electric car before it. And in early January, a development prototype lapped the Nurburgring in 7:07.55—faster than any other EV or sedan, gas or electric.

Not entirely sure what the system on your car is like but I assume it's not too far off. For me i had to hold down the menu button for several seconds which led me to the screen in the attached picture. From there went into system update/versions, and there it shows the software version you're running

So funny how you spend your time and energy typing totally unnecessary and unhelpful comment just to say how you are old fashioned and laugh at others who just asked community for advice. Have a nice day mister

If it’s anything like the U.K. MOT any hybrid is not subject to an emissions test. On many hybrids you can press the pedal to the floor to turn the engine on. But this isn’t suitable for an emissions test.

That's great. Let's build hundreds of those in the next few months so we can have enough energy to split hydrogen out of water. But before then, BEV are the best options with the limited amount of electricity we have.

Ok, I'll use them 2 on the fronts, I'll have to make sure I don't get them mixed up when fitting them.

Avoid the 19” wheels unless you enjoy your teeth chattering.

Get a cigarette lighter adaptor and charge only from that rather than the built in USB socket. Seeemples

Fitted and RCD330 Plus 6RF 035 187F from alibaba and bought a fascia frame as well, worked a treat. radio https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003708291074.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.3.26abf19cqoBAxw fascia frame https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32853335248.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.607f1802rPIEuF

It appears mines mainly the poly bushes. I jacked the car up and took the wheels off, got right in there and managed to get some fresh silicon grease in. Seems much better now. I do think the top mounts are making a smidge of noise, but not enough to worry about right now. And that's only at slow manoverring

Wider rim size makes your ride quality better for sure. The difference is only 1 inch, but better then nothing. About the ET, the difference is only 2 milimeters, not significant.

That Sparco steering wheel is removed, I bought a brand new one. I also did some testing, the brand (manufacturer) of the switch makes a big difference.

And had 5 oil changes Inc water pump and haldex , , service was done with brake fluid service Wednesday just gone

Plenty of oil changes all done at Skoda since new , diff done , but cnt see anything about plugs being done , should I do them ,

Looks like rain will stop play today. So I'll catalog up some more boxes of stuff that have arrived the last week, and also to help me keep track. I've found https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851 a fountain of knowledge as the part catalog is pretty comprehensive, So on 28 February, I placed an order. They then do some sort of delivery calculation and within 30 minutes an updated price is sent to cover delivery. This then arrived yesterday, so smidgen over a week and a half: One thing I felt was strange that it was missing on this Superb is the levers in the boot that drop the rear seats. It was something we found on the Octavia VRS Estate when we was shopping around and is something I can see myself using when logging longer than anticipated loads. So it's what I'm hoping is enough components to retrofit this feature. I could find it to be terribly stupid an idea, but we'll see. So the bits involve: The rear levers (3V9 885 591 A 9B9 and 3V9 885 592 A 9B9) which came to £21.29 each. Then the parts that presumably go into the seat frame itself: These were 5G0 885 915 B and 5G0 885 915 C for the left and right, interestingly the former being £14.86 and the latter £10.36. I added some caps as well (5G0 886 296), which I think are for the above, 82p each. I also ordered the trims for the top of the rear seats (3V0 885 893 9B9 and 3V0 885 894 9B9) just in case, at £2.89 each. I also ordered two of 5E9885344A which are the bowden cables, which unfortunately also came with the levers, so they're kind of a waste, but came to £6.55 each. So all in all came to £92.64. So the original plan of removing the seats is still necessary for this in order to fit some of the gubbins into the rear seat back rest, but I could be being naïve about it being a relatively straightforward process. Maintenance: £1344.91 Upgrades: £429.70 (+£92.64) Miscellaneous: £584.95

Some great work there, at least you didn’t find anything else too embarrassing under the seats! When I replaced the rear LH spring my spring compressor didn’t fit - the manual shows kind of blade things that engage with the spring, while the screw bit is off to the side. But I discovered that it was easier to drop the lower suspension arm right down - this involved disconnecting the drop link and the position sensor as well as the damper of course. But dropping the arm right down enabled the spring to be inserted un-tensioned, then I jacked up the lower arm to tension the spring until the damper could be reconnected. The droplinks etc do look rusty, but there was no play in them when I did this job a year or so ago. Mind you with shiny new dampers, maybe rusty drop links will offend!

So here's some pics of reassembling the modules under the seats. Here's the amplifier and its frame: I've wiped them down a bit, but the amplifier just has what I can only assume is corrosion on that metal bit, quite wild given its inside the car. Here's the TV Tuner: It's really the reverse of disassembly, so for the passenger side with the amplifier: There is a bolt, and two nuts, with the former on the side and the latter two with captive threads on the car floor, so it slots into those: The amplifier then sorta slides into place, with a bit of jiggling: This actually should be done after sorting out the connectors, as one of them is one of them super secure ones, similar to ECU connectors: So you have to slide the purple (fuschia?) locking tab thingy into place: So that's that. The other side is pretty much the same: With the same bolt and two nut securing arrangement: There's a few more connectors for the TV tuner but its relatively idiot proof: The TV tuner has some metal tabs on the side, which are used to keep it in place in the frame, so the unit essentially slides in from the rear towards the front of the car where it will then click into place: Eagle eyed readers will not I haven't put the nuts in place. This is because in my vacuuming of the carpet, I may have also sucked one of the nuts. So its pretty much gone. I'll need to rummage around the garage or order replacement ones, but they look to be a standard M6 flange nut really, not the end of the world. I think that'll be it for this weekend. I could probably hook up the power back now that everything is reconnected (or in the case of the seats, not disconnected at all). I may still take the rear seats yet, and maybe they might have some wiring. So I guess for next week, I'll probably embark on the actual process of installing the suspension. I managed to squeeze my phone into the wheel well behind the wheel and aimed upwards: This could be interesting! I sense I should source some drop links. Maintenance: £1344.91 Upgrades: £337.06 Miscellaneous: £584.95

Ok, number 8 collected (4x4 dsg diesel) and driven 5 hours home. 48mpg at 'pressing-on' speed. The rest is pure Yeti. It's not a posh Audi like the other household car, but it's still comfortable, enjoyable to drive and in some ways all the better for the lack of pretence about it. Good in unexpected puddles too !

Many many years ago I said on this forum that the Yeti would become a classic car. Most Yeti owning peeps at that time on this forum scoffed at my stupidity. Most of those I guess have since replaced their cars. Ha ha. The Yeti is still the best all round car ever invented. It can do everything. And it is still the best looking suv. We bought ours new in 2011 and it will stay with us until it dies.

Congratulations - ordering and receiving your new Kodiaq before the order books have even opened... 😱. Alternatively, you didn't really mean to post in the Mk2 section and should instead have posted in the Mk1 forum. Anyway, matters not... someone will probably be along shortly to move the topic into the correct place. In the meantime, you may want to take a look at:

I have finally tried this, Skoda Kodiaq with a two spoke steering wheel with the travel assist button that I really thought was not even connected. First I had: A5 Driver Assistance - Long Coding - HC_Warn_Intensity - Setting_over_Menu (activates the Travel Assist menu in the interface) HC_WARN_INTENSITY -> setting_over_menu With this I had adaptative lane assist but the button on the steering wheel for travel assist did NOTHING and I had to nudgle the steering wheel every few seconds, very annoying. And now I have added: Control Unit 13->Long Coding-> byte 2 -> Capacitive_steering_wheel - Enabled. A5 -> Hc_Variante: 2 A5 -> Klr: Enabled. And the button now works!!! When you click it a 'Travel assist ' message comes on the dashboard. The steering was capacititive, now I have to squeeze it only, not move it, it has to be squeezed more than for a example a BMW X5 but it does work. And, BONUS TRACK, the lane assist now works at any speed, before it went off when below about 60kph. This is my experience. The car really does not turn a lot though, any minor turn on any road will get you out in the field, it is really only good for very straight roads or motorway. This is the part I less like. Hope this helps somebody....

sorry for the glacial response on this had a few Bereavements in the family over the last few years. Anyway Main Agents phoned to say they were changing the cambelt and tensioner , I found out there was a TSB on this problem, they replaced belt and tensioner, but the noise is /was still there and was apparently the oil /Vacc pump drive which was still there 25.000 trouble free miles later, I traded it in last week for the new sportline plus superb estate with another newer type 150 bhp Diesel engine, I just noticed a slight squeaking down the pulley side of the engine on this replacement car from a cold start, I dont know if there are any service bulletins out on this noise , its just about perceptable to my ear, the cars only done 11,000 miles from new. I will keep an ear/eye out on it .

I finally got round to replacing the seal on the gearbox and found a fitted the missing driveshaft heat shield