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For me it's pressures that make the most difference. When towing I up the pressures to the loaded setting (2.4/3.0bar) and when not towing it crashes about. Normal loads it's down to 2.2bar and a much smoother ride. I would like to use the eco pressures of 2.5bar to save fuel but it's just to hard a ride for British roads. I run Nexen N-blue all season tyres and they give a reasonable ride. Best thing for a smoother ride is to swap to 16" wheels

Not exactly hard to check, just grab the tie rod and give it a pull in and out, feel for a knock. You change the joint with the rod "drumstick" as a lot of places call them. They're not expensive, but it's worth paying that bit more for a good brand. It can be a bit of a mare to change then, even with the right size crowsfoot socket, and the car will want re-tracking, so I generally get somewhere to do them for me.

With a 1.2 TSI with a so low annual miles i would be changing the Oil & Filter annually , at 9,400 miles or less. It is more about the length of cold start journeys though and is the engine getting up to heat on the trips. That would be using the VW502 00, Fully Synthetic and not the Long Life VW504 00 oil. The Air Filter needs replacing when you think it is dirty. The Pollen Filter as well, and with a vacuuming, cleaning / washing / sanitising of the area.

I bought some similar to these; https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006266995575.html The covers are a bit large but they do the job. They're also sold on eBay and Amazon.

I would give the Washable Performance Filter a miss and get in a Nice Clean Fresh new Disposable filter. ? Do you know when the spark plugs were last changed? ? Do you even know if the previous owner / owners had ir remapped?

It seems that there are several variations of viscosity for the 1.2 TSI - use your engine code (3 or 4 letters in front of engine number on your V5) to find the correct one. I would not recommend replacing your engine air filter with a washable one - just use the recommended type to replace.

IIRC, semi-synthetic is compatible with fully-synthetic for top ups, although like for like is best. There was once (very long ago) a strong recommendation to never mix mineral with synthetic - but not sure if that applies now. A quick Google search will tell you the correct oil spec. and viscosity for your engine. With regards to oil brand, provided the oil complies with specification and is from a reliable refiner, I'm not really convinced that the actual brand is that important. You will find a huge difference in prices between brands for what is effectively the same product.

I don't know if 272 or 280 TSI have the same coolant pump as TDI engines, but the latter ones have specific pumps. This kind of coolant pump is 'disabled' at the engine start to reduce the time needed for the engine to reach its optimum operating temperature. Then the water pump is activated to operate normally. But the drawback of such a technology is that several TDI have temperature issues with coolant pump stuck or being lazy to reactivate... I did have to replace mine at 62000km... 🙄 It's a known issue from Skoda.

this is a very well presented view

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/P068A/001674#:~:text=Performance Too Early-,P068A%2F001674 - ECM Power Relay Load Circuit%3A,De-Energized Performance Too Early

Looks great on the original alloys

Good afternoon all. I used to own an Octavia Mk2 estate and changed to a BMW 5 series estate in 2019, well we all make mistakes!🤣 Bought a 2022 Octavia Mk4 hatchback SE L 2.0 TDi DSG a few weeks ago and l am so pleased to be back.👍 Its in blue metallic with beige interior, looks great. I actually prefer motorbikes to cars but there are times when the car is more practical.

All sorted it's alive

The Long Life Oil, VW504 00 / 507 00 is the 5w 30 FS III or 0w 30 FS III & yes the Service Interval is 24 months , 18,000-20,000 Miles. There was the change of Service / OIl Service code in 2010 i think, before that the 1.2 TSI was Fixed Oil & Filter service regime. VW had changed that in the Polo earlier to suitable for Long Life Servicing, Variable / Flexible. It is not about the price of oil being different, long life or not. Changing the oil annually is under £30 for the Oil & Filter & if the car is a Keeper then IMO worth changing.

I'd be AMAZED if the inner joints really are worn, it's one of those 'gimme' jobs that most owners can't check. You certainly don't need a new rack! FYI my Fabia is 24 years old and is still on the original inner joints, I changed everything else when I bought it in 2016.

It's a petrol turbo engine so oil is much less critical than with a diesel turbo, topping up with any oil is better than allowing the level to drop too low so you've done no harm and there's no need to take any further action. Simply change the oil and filter at the next service as normal.

hi, i have spoke today with a local expert and he told me that MIB3 doesn't support ali express cameras. anyway, if i don't reach an agreement with the seller and will go with your advice. thanks, cheers

77 kW 1.2 TSI CBZB & the Oil Capacity changes as does the Filter Type by 2012. See the threads on the Oil Filters. a good one by @xman

Just watched this video of emergency ambulance getting a police escort to transport a child to the hospital in the Netherlands. The thing that struck me is just how great the roads there are, I never saw a single pothole. 55,236 views Jun 8, 2024 Welcome. Today we are back in the Netherlands, where we are about to join the police officers from Team Traffic. They are requested to assist an ambulance driving from the small town of Ter Aar to the Leiden University Medical Center. The paramedics are in need of an emergency escort to transport a young child to the hospital after suffering a cardiac arrest. This emergency ride will turn out to be one the worst so far, so keep watching. If you’re fascinated by sirens, flashing lights, and the critical work of first responders, you’re in the right place. Our channel provides a unique perspective—literally—from the driver’s seat of police cars, ambulances, and fire trucks. We collect various videos from all over the world and add insightful context and commentary. Source: Verkeerspolitie Den Haag

I currently have the Nexen Nblue hd plus on mine, paid £111 per tyre fitted and I must say they are a vast improvement over the more expensive Pirelli’s that they replaced.

I’ve owned a few mondeos, mainly mk1 pre and post facelift, and I have to say although the mondeo still ranks as one of the nicest cars I’ve owned to drive, the Octavia’s dwarf them in cabin space. The Octavia’s and mondeo’s I’ve owned have all been hatchbacks and from what I remember of the mondeo boot they may have been similar in size, but Octavia has so much more drivers leg room and rear leg room. Once the wife said we needed an estate in my head it was mondeo vs Octavia. But having recently driven a mondeo estate, although in my mind they are arguably the better looking car, the newer mondeos aren’t as fun or comfortable to drive as the earlier ones. I found the drive to be fairly numb and although the Octavia 1.0 probably isn’t much more or less exciting to drive, the main reason for the change in car is we need more rear leg room and more boot space than the yeti offers and the Octavia offers it in spades. If it wasn’t for that I wouldn’t change cars. we’ve owned the yeti 6 years and when we bought it the kids were in car seats. Now they are teenagers they are getting cramped. Add a German Shepherd into the road trips and unfortunately the Yeti just won’t cut it even with a roof box 🙁

Because they are likely to pass more dust/dirt into the engine than a disposable one unless scrupulously maintained - this is the reason you usually get more induction noise from the washable type. The engine code may also be on the B pillar weight plate.

What age were the tyres? They can get less complaint with age. Most owners found Michelin Cross Climate 2's to offer considerably better ride than most Summer tyres.

There's this thing called the "battery earth cable". Disconnect that and the airbag can't go off whilst you're working. Remember to reassemble the bag and reconnect it before turning the ignition back on, or you'll join the many confused by a latching warning light.

I downloaded everything I needes and a bit more 😁👌didn't know if I was doing something wrong with the service history or not, a lot of cars have locks on them now so you cant acces stuff.

Looking really good 😎 - alloys definitely suite it. Gaz

Is there any way to scroll to the rest of the fault description? Too .......

Not on this car but my old Leon did on 2ed service. 14500 miles. The dealer tried to charge me replacement. Was as mad as a hornet dealer replaced them for free in the end. Make a big fuss if you’ve got low mileage

If you can do it yourself, a glow plug change is not a big deal. Quick and cheap.

An annoying colleague at my wife's work claims her physically larger Mondeo wagon (Australianese for estate) is super huge and can carry everything, always volunteers to move equipment to events so that lots of people can help load and admire the vehicles internal capacity and her selfless 'volunteering' (in paid work hours of course). Funnily enough she is never able (family commitments?) to bring the stuff back, when there is no one there to impress, so that duty often falls to my wife and our Octavia estate. Not only does my wife fit in equipment complete that had to be disassembled for the Mondeo but on more than one occasion managed a two-trip Mondeo load in one Octavia trip. Wisely, my wife keeps quiet about the Octavia's Tardis interior because you can't argue with an idiot. It really is a 'Swiss army knife' of a car, can deliver near hybrid consumption, more than enough performance (for us) when needed, roomy and a joy to drive interstate. Seriously nothing presently on the (Aus) market worth the expense to change imo and I dislike all the now obligatory safe driving aids in new cars.

Latest Updated Speedcams - June, 2024. Here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( June, 2024 ). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Fixed Speedcams, Average Speedcams, Variable Speedcams and Redlight Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the speedcam categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams - June, 2024.zip * Credit, past and present, to Nyky from Gpsurl for the use of his database without which these files would not be compiled.

The 12V sockets do not have the "Ignition Controlled" option at the fuse box, the wiring is not there. I have run my own outlet using Fuse-47 position, it's for the rear wiper that's not fitted to my car and it goes on & off with the ignition. My twin outlet will stay under the boot floor and will supply my Sub & my rear dashcam. For my front dash cam I used the smaller Fuse-37 position to connect my "Tap" too, this one would have been for the USB-C socket by the mirror that I also did not get, it also comes on with ignition. So unfortunately there is no easy solution like you get on the Audi's

Ah thanks mate. That’s massively helpful. Your car looks insane, I loved the original rims and how it sat before BUT those new rims just make it look hard as nails. 🤣 Great work. 👍🏼

Its a USB2.0 port -The USB 2.0 specification allows Hosts to deliver 5V at 500 mA, for a total power output of 2.5 watts.

Trust me, in the very unlikely event that you should ever be involved in an incident whereby the emergency services need immediate access they WILL get in, no bother whatsoever. It really isn’t the death trap scenario you seem to think it is. BTW, this post is meant to be reassuring, but I bet I still get some stick for it🙄

Here’s my 2019 272! Quartz metallic. Picked it up Tuesday. Absolutely love it so far. After 7 years away from the brand (5 series touring then Cupra Formentor) I’m very happy to be back in a Škoda. 💙

I just picked this up a couple of weeks ago. 2018 SEL Executive 190 DSG. Loving it so far!

Apparently it was absolutely fine! It even accepted the re-gas. No suspicious suspension parts so they said just keep an eye out if and when it gets worse so they can diagnose it. I'm amazed. Not bad for a 20 year old motor!!

I seem to recall that @skodud ended up rejecting the vehicle.

Oh - that’s a bit unnecessary to have to do that. Sorry it didn’t work out. Ok, next one is Detailing Detectives. Serve South Yorks. The MD is on the board of the IDA and PVD assessed as well. They were my first thought but I didn’t think they were in the right area until I actually looked at their website. Hopefully worth a punt too; I can point in a word for you if you want if you’re not interested in any interior upselling etc.

also interested, start and stop is one of the most anoying thing ever created in the human history 😁

@xman GSF are usually my preference just cos they're the relative underdogs. Some info from the parts catalogue that may be of interest to folks with this engine. Part number for genuine filter for CBZA/CBZB engined mk2 Fabia built up to 08/03/2010 was 03C115561B, which was dropped on 1st Dec 2013 in favour of 03C115561J, currently retailing at £15.86 inc VAT from Skoda dealerships. For same engines in Fabias built from 09/03/2010, the original part number was 03C115561D, dropped on 1st April 2014, replaced by 03C115561H, £13.56 inc VAT currently. If you're not sure which side of these build dates your car was manufactured, message me with your VIN and I can check. Edit: by the way, looking at those two current part numbers, those who have been ill-advised about how VW Group part numbers work might be tempted to get completely the wrong idea and think "J comes after H in the alphabet so that must be the latest, best version to use for the later cars". That is not how VW Group part numbers work, see here: A common error with VAG part numbers - Handy Topics & Guides - BRISKODA You need the correct part number for the build date of the car, not something 'close'.

Ok finally decided not to take it. For the benefit of anyone who is in the same position, and for what it's worth: No doubt the VC makes the dash look more "modern". However, my current setup (analogue with digital speed) gives me everything I need. Speed Gear Cruise Control Speed Cruise Control on/off Outside temp Direction/Compass (nice to have) Trip distance (I don't use) I use Waze, so there is no benefit to having the navigation function on the VC. If I was using the built in Sat Nav, then maybe this would have edged me to it. Ultimately I got to the stage that I "wasn't sure" if I would prefer the VC or the existing setup, would end up configuring the VC to replicate the current setup as much as possible, and concluded that in that case I would be better off saving the £395. Thanks for all your comments, they really did help me make the decision and hopefully will help others in the future.