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I have conducted some tests and our Fabia does have Hill Hold and it works correctly in Reverse and Drive. The slope of my drive is too shallow to activate it - hence it runs back if the accelerator is not pressed. as the dry clutch requires accelerator input to engage the clutches. All working as expected and this driver will now learn to drive it correctly. Thanks to @logiclee for the explanation in the KAroq forum.

That’s bizarre. I’d go for the Chinese copies; can’t be worse than the failed OE originals.

As you quoted mileage in kms I assume your not in Staffordshire. Specifications vary from country to country. As you wanted an estate (which was my choice too) make sure you get one with a flat floor in the back. In the UK this was standard in the Elegance trim level but optional on some others and in other countries. Folding the rear seats and then unclipping and removing the rear back rests gives almost six feet of load length, most of which is level with the bottom of the boot aperture. Personally I would not entertain any petrol car with a 1.8 or 2.0 TSI engine - see sticky thread above. For the diesels there is a choice of engine depending on age. Certain 2 litre diesel plus the 1.6 litre diesel were the subject of the "dieselgate" scandal. New engine control software (plus an air straightener on the 1.6) was found to reduce reliability. The fix was said to be mandatory when in fact it was optional. I resisted the pressure to have mine fixed. Some owners had the software reversed but the majority did not. Many sold their cars and same waited a few years until VW paid out compensation. The biggest reliability issue was failure of the EGR valve. Some people had it replaced several times under warranty/goodwill. The EGR is not expensive but its location requires many labour hours to replace so a big bill. I suggest you spend time reading past threads in this forum. If you find a car you like, then note the engine code on the sticker in or near the spare wheel well. Armed with the code, do a targeted search of past threads.

Just a tip if you are buying a new wheel... If you buy a genuine wheel starting with 3V0601025 it is classed as a normal car part. Whereas if you buy a 3V0071498 wheel this is from the optional extras catalog and the wheel is the exact same - albeit with sometimes a 40% price reduction. If you google the skoda catalog for accessories for this age youll find a PDF with all the wheels - find yours on there instead of the original code.

It says in the manual the fu el rail has to be removed to swap it out, even if the clearance is fine, torquing it up to 100NM would put strain on the fuel pipes and any brackets holding the fuel rail on. Here, you can diagnose it yourself now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The glow plug is not needed when the engine is warm so the fault code is not shown. A likely cause is the cable to glow plug 4. Check with a voltmeter that the supply is getting to that glow plug and to one of the others when someone else turns on the ignition only, for the first time when cold. The reason for checking against a known good plug is that at this time of year the glow plugs are often not required and will not be energised.

A MY25 Karoq will be 5 years worth moved on from a MY20, but is that anything for the better. There are new mandatory features. But the same now with a new Octavia or any other model.

2 litre is very quick, amazingly the 2.0 TSI performance data matches that of the original Audi Quattro (engine capacity, bhp, 0-60, top speed)

Hello Lukos, welcome to the forum. The 'engine must be running' message just means that the automatic idle stop function has been inhibited and the engine will remain running - there can be a number of reasons for this; low battery charge state/high electrical load, low or high cabin temperature, etc. A failing crankshaft position sensor (not camshaft) can apparently cause your symptoms - and may not log a DTC code.

Just moved from a 2020 Karoq SEL to a 2024 Octavia Estate SEL and the Octavia is a generation ahead of the Karoq. Octavia drives a lot better and the practicality of the estate is second to none

This sounds identical to my 1.9 but I thought the issue had been sorted on later cars (non PD). On mine it came down to some odd coding where a few things combined caused it to not apply fuel. Those being; above a certain temperature; starter a bit worn and not able to crank above a certain speed; maybe one more but I forget. I tried a refurbished starter, new battery and earth points, a bunch of other things. In the end I lived with it as I learnt that a crank after the initial crank would wake it up and kick it into life. Easy enough with a key start. Not so much with a button I expect. Then I decided to get a remap. Totally unrelated. The issue was solved. Never came back. Had a chat with the tuner and he reckoned it could have been something picked up by the guy who created his base map. My suggestion would be to try a map of that's of interest to you anyway. Clearly that is a specific solution that not everyone would want. I'm sorry I can't offer any other advice. You might get lucky or like me chucking a parts cannon at it and still not solving it.

Get your report into the DVSA on the behaviour of the car & the actions being taken or not by the Suppliers or their agents.. If Dealership staff are saying a known issue the they know it is a safety issue for you are other road users. Skoda UK & Skoda Dealers put out new cars, have new cars PDI,d and out on the road and can not deal with cars they know are out on the roads and faulty. They need to remember the corporate responsibility. PS Be sure you have let Skoda / VW UK know though. In writing. They should be providing you with a loan car and getting your one off the road until fixed, as they should with every other with the issues. I hope you have the name of the person at the dealership that you spoke to.

Three of us at work bought three 6 month old Karoq's from the same dealer in the same week. My two colleagues bought Sportlines but I went for an SEL. Why? My wife has mobility issues and the sports seats were more difficult to get in and out of and were more restrictive. The ride dropping from 50 profile tyres to 40 profile transmits more of the poor road surfaces into the car. And finally for me I've had two panroofs on previous Skoda's and have had issues. The last one had a £1400 repair and a £2400 cassette replacement, fortunately under warranty but it's put me off panroofs. But everyone has there own tolerance levels for seats and ride so it's best to take a test drive yourself.

I've had that happen on my Scala, fortunately not as severe as to slam the brakes on but enough to put up 'your going to die' message. It went away (and has not reappeared) after I thoroughly cleaned the front of the square sensor thing in the middle of the grille and poked my fingers behind it enough to remove bits of spiders web and stuff. John

Arh, the benefits of driver aids and safety measures. 😁 No wonder those little delivery robots are going up. down, round and across all terrains of the pavements and roads trying to learn more for the vehicles (and military) of the future. My wife's 2015 Mk3 has only played up twice, once it said it couldn't activate but was fine on next journey after turning the car and its computer programs "off 'n' on agen", I suggested that it might just have been a leaf on the front of the rad grille. Then went my wife was following slow traffic through town panic braking by the car for no reason but my wife saw a plastic bag blowing in the breeze. Other times it just acting like the most cautious and nervous driver and not reading the traffic in front of it. Of course they've improved these systems by 2024. 😆 Thank gawd her car doesn't have lane "assist" or electronic handbrake with "Hold Assist", automatic lights and automatic wipers that really are eccentric. Heard the one about the Tesla stopping because of a bridge shadow cast on the road, I'm sure it's not true as Elon wouldn't let such things pass by testing.

Mark, I know from your question that the above solutions are not what you really want. Why not contact Adel or Miro at Skoda-parts.com. Parts are still coming to me without any duty being applied. Looking nice, and keeping it nice is what many of us want to do. Yes, it means we keep spending money as the car gets older and perhaps the aesthetics for many people take a back seat after a certain age. I think if you keep on top of it, you won't need to face some stupendous cost to restore things to how you wanted them. A little bit at a time I say. Just like pipe clips. Why paint them when they start showing corrosion, if for a few pence each you can just replace them. Often you can replace with stainless steel, especially all the little spring bands for the cooling system pipes. Hope it helps. Put your old engine cover on eBay. You will do the change then for very good value by putting your parts back into the reuse cycle. Rich VRS tdi mk2

My MY23 can use Laura to change the air con settings. Currently got 1969 software version. But it worked on previous versions 1936? (Might be wrong on version but it was orig from factory) and 1941. You can say things like "my feet are cold" or basic "set temperature to 20c" However Laura is putting it bluntly useless. It's quicker to press the button and screen than it is to get Laura to wake up, understand what your saying and then decide whether or not she can actually perform the task. He/she can be fickle and it's pot luck if it can be asked. Be interested to know if the chat GPT on the face lifts improves Laura's social skills? But I can't imagine it getting rolled out in software update for us older models (even if the system is the same)

@xbox1964 yes why? You need all the help you can get from here or from a mate or garage that knows mk2 Fabia vRS. If you have not yet researched them then best start.

Why did I get a groan reaction!?

Welcome. Best look in the Mk2 Fabia Section and pinned threads and maybe do a search and read where others have posted the same question. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/509740-thinking-of-buying-a-mk2-fabia-vrs There is lots to be looking at. ? What age and miles is it?

MK1 or Mk2?

To monitor dampness from factory. For factory use.

Your Fabia should have Hill Hold. It was standard on 1.2TSi DSG Mk2 and Mk3 and was standard on all 1.0TSi 110 models. We've had both and still have a 1.0Tsi DSG. The differences in creep between the DQ200 and DQ250/381 is not really down to engine torque but the control of the clutches. In the wet clutch variants the clutches can transfer torque while stationary and slow moving, the multiplate wetclutch design allows for slip without excessive heat build up as the clutch pack is lubricated and cooled by the transmission fluid, that's why you will also see the box slip in 2nd in slow moving traffic rather than change to 1st. For the DQ200 clutch slip needs to be kept to a minimum, any clutch slip means heat build up and clutch wear. When sat in Drive and engine running the wet clutches are already held at touch point and can progressively engage. For DQ200 the clutches are held clear and is the reason why it feels more hesitant at slow speed.

No, it started doing it at the beginning of June, just after I had had the gearbox oil and Haldex unit (it’s a 4x4) oil changed. It does it regardless of whether the caravan is attached or not. I can’t get it to ‘clank’ by rocking the car or by bouncing it manually and it doesn’t do it over every speed bump or pothole

@Bap33 - that was the total price. i didn't have to pay any import duties or taxes. i'm in australia though, so other countries may differ.

Hi, 3V0601025 is the generic code for Superb Mk3 wheels. The last 2 letters correspond to wheel model, size and color though paint code or finish is reminded aside with another 3 letter code. For a MY19, 3V0601025AG should be 18" Zenith rims in JX2 Glossy black. For the same 18" Zenith rims, 2 other codes exist indeed: - 3V0601025F with 8Z8 brillant silver paint code - 3V0601025AE with HZ9 plantinum finish (or anthracite grey) If you look at the back of your wheels, you'll find these 3 codes molded on spokes. Letter codes is just a question on how they're painted or finished (for a given model).

If you are having DPF issues this normally results in oil dilution and a rising oil level so if this is an issue then it is not your only issue unfortunetly. Let us know what your mechanic finds and good luck!

I've found more info on another forum, seems quite common, and as mentioned previously the movement of pipes to remove the TB cover might cause the sensor port to crack. https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/dpf-pressure-sensors-melted.514897/ Mine was already like this before starting the TB change, the last TB change was 60k miles ago (2 1/2 years), so it might just be a brittle plastic/random failure. £18 for each new sensor, with new plugs and wiring, isn't the end of the world.

Looks like recall worthy to me

Someone decided to put a plastic sensor next to the DPF which reaches 500-600C.. Yes, there is a shield but it’s a poor engineering decision. It happens from at least 10 years and there are cars completely burned because of this issue.

The parts catalogue entry with diagram is HERE, but I'd also suspect the wiring bundle in the rubber boot that comes into the driver's door from the front wing. It's a known weak spot on Octavias and I presume Fabias where insulation can harden and conductors break.

Is the TESLA Warranty like others that has an Exclusion for Race Tracks or Off-road courses? BMW and VW have that, but then the Media cars were launched with Journalists and others driving them on tracks then those cars were sold to people.

With it being a 2020 release platform it is probaly almost impossible to do without ODIS and two factor authentication, you can't even do the rear pads without t!

The gauge is programmed to get to 90 by a real 77 and stay there until a real 117, only viewing the data blocks in the ECU will tell the truth

In door, so very likely to be a broken wire in door loom near A-pillar.

Working Download Links: I have uploaded the file to a couple of my cloud services, and no password is required. Give them a try and let me know if they are working okay for you. The first link will likely become unavailable when it hits a bandwidth limit so best to download ASAP. https://e.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=XZVfN9Zh62r0cJ7y4YQMaldlQMJxbP78tTV Hopefully this link should work okay: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rT0eItntrx6zeUz0dMAnzpBKL5Ktswg7/view?usp=share_link If requests become to much I will likely have to restrict downloads but for the time being I'll keep them live and un-restricted.

Yes, had it from new. Dealer did ask if we'd had any work done on it - it hasn't, this is the first time it's been to a garage since we picked it up. Of course, dealer said they'd never seen anything like it but other daughter had a "miss-build" on her SEAT Ateca, which is built in the same factory as Karoq. Not sure which of the tubes is missing - not clear from technicians report. Hopefully it'll just be the rear one and maybe it can go in where the vent is. If it's the main one, then removing the console looks a chunky job.