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Flippin plane and a satellite gatecrashing my astrophotography IMG_3116.CR3

Glorious evening.............

From the tinkering with these that I have done... Driving dynamics - very little, but driving the same road with and without this in 'Sport' there is a hint that the ride is firmer. It's so slight I might be 'wanting to feel it' rather than actually feeling it. Presumably if the car had DCC (Dynamic Chassis Control) then there would be a noticeable difference. Mine doesn't have DCC so I wonder why this setting is there, hence looking for any change. Gut feel is tyre pressures make a bigger difference. Drive - the throttle response is slower in ECO than in Normal. Sport makes it sharper. Having used ECO for a while I think Normal is a more drivable setting, and gives magically better fuel economy on long motorway trips with a hefty load in the back. Steering - in Sport it is heavier and I think more responsive to inputs. I disliked it so use Normal. ACC - after slowing car behind traffic, the acceleration is less severe in ECO AirCon - dunno... Can't remember the rest! When I first got the car I spent ages fiddling till I either found a setting I liked or got bored trying it.

Volvo gives up plan to sell only EVs by 2030 https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/c3ejye39434o

I got a very poor and inconclusive stock answer, I'll ask again.

I've now created the how to guide, for those interested. MIB 2 to MIB2.5 Upgrade Guide v1.0.pdf

Thanks for your feedback Heres my situation... just spent an hour washing and grooming my new car the day before, then just a short squirt to get pollen off windscreen the next day, and the light washers come on and cover the whole bonnet with spray! Thats why I want to know if I can turn them off! Cheers

I suspect a blown LED's. These two for the speedo and rev counter each. There's a guide here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/425611-instrument-cluster-led-replacment/ Or you can use a service where they will repair the circuit board. You can see the two LEDS in this image above and below the needle spindle.

Indeed, I drive the road daily. But I've never pulled over to read the A4 laminate on the lamp post. I did however notice them burning the 40mph white marking off the road. They put that down when they reduced the road from National Speed limit to 40mph. And that was before they shifted the 30 limit start further up the road. For those not knowing the area the road is not just a local estate route it's a very busy link from Huthwaite, Sutton is Ashfield, Pleasley towards Mansfield or A60 Nottm. And where they keep adding housing without upgrading the roads, they just slow down traffic. For Vehicle Tech, Karoq did pretty quickly change to 30mph. Google Maps if using android auto still reports 40mph. My works vehicle has an Arval Connect driver monitoring. That still reports the road as a 40mph.

I put a floating screen Sony in mine for around 650 including all trim, facia and steering wheel remote converter. £30 for a decent DAB antenna from the flea bays completes the Android auto system. One can purchase cheaper, but I've not come across any I would use. A decent set of speakers up front plus sound deadening material would set you back £125+. The amp and sub in my old Rapid spaceback are in the process of being reinstalled as I had a rattle! (Genesis five point one and Alpine Type R 10" DVC) Excuse the mess, and they added a couple of grand to the install! Go nuts by all means, but a brand name Android head unit plus fitting kit will set you back at least £600. Car stereo security in London are my go to guys for audio. 😅

You have to check front disc size on the actual car, earlier diesel vRS came with 340mm brakes, certainly in 2016 they were only 312mm brakes. Not sure at which point the size has changed. I like ATE ceramic pads, then EBC yellowstuff (road, not track).

So what are your options VRipS? Are you looking at paying someone else to repair this?

But you have power steering, right? Cars with PS had 90A alternator and 6PK belt. Car without PS had only 7A alternator. It's possible that the compressor will fit into factory bracket... Who knows, maybe Alex even modified the kit to use the factory bracket with spring-loaded tensioner.

Even the VW CEO thinks that group may only have 1 or 2 years left. Sad..... Good EVs produced late, maybe ID7 & first to be a class leader. In Germany next week, might have a chat or two. Also hear it from German friends, so bad.

I said it before - these AC conversions are mess 😃 The manual at one point also shows alternator on top. In stock configuration, AC compressor is beneath the alternator, in place of the servo pump. That however requires different coolant pipe and hose to get around it, so that's probably reason why Alex had to do a slightly different accessory holder, which mounts alternator and compressor quite high. Another reason to implement two speed fan. Especially when we are required to run with lights 24/7. Problem with 90A alternator is, that it fits only into PS/AC bracket - PS variants were equipped with it from factory. Not sure if Alex holder could work with 90A alternatir

This video might help.

Is there any "hub centring" built into these spacers and is the spaced out wheel, wheel centre the same size as the mating part on the spacer? What tightening torque figure are you using?( a repeated question)

Had this error last night. No issue with lights then disappeared on next startup. Strange!

I have an MY17 Superb and my start-stop also kicks in before the car comes to complete stop. Annoying especially at roundabouts or intersections. Unfortunately it's a common complaint. Which is why many of us either code start-stop out, or fit a start-stop memory device. I have the later - works a treat. Had it for a very long time now.

Yep, just phoned the Garage to confirm, and that is the case 🙂 I now have a couple of weeks to apply a ceramic coating to the wheels 🤓

Excellent table showing which charge point operator works with which payment: https://www.speakev.com/threads/fuuse-wattsup-partnership-announced.186924/?post_id=3658927#post-3658927 Table can be copy and paste into Excel for filtering. So essentially only need to have Octopus Electroverse and contactless bank card to cover majority. If want to be sure sign up with the big individuals: BP Pulse, Podpoint and Tesla. This is the rest, I can't say I've seen any of them in real life. I've only heard of Vend Electric for destination charging.

Valves normally would be included as they'd be replaced if they were old tyres on existing wheels.

Ok Tyres bought and booked for fitting. The tyre fitting Garage with best ratings nearby was a bit busy, so no fitting for a couple of weeks. But 4x Michelin Cross Climate 2 in 205/55/16 V rated fited + balanced ( I am not sure about valves, being new wheels. But if I have to pay extra I don't mind) ,comes to a not bad (IMO) £354.32 😁

......plugged in a USB-C charger 😁 Not a major mod but it may help someone! I wanted a USB-C charger for the rear ashtray that when fitted still allowed the tray to close, this one fits perfectly. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0BTP9GF27 I would have preferred a double USB-C but all the ones I found would have stopped the tray closing when fitted. At some point I may swap for ones of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285669357516

https://easyupload.io/r5vbe4

Hi Everyone, I am looking for this version of SKODA Fabia software update ( MEN2_EU_SKGPX_P9160L ) I can't find this version anywhere. Can you help me? PS: e-mail: [email protected]

I found the culprit ...a 10A FUSE !! After scouring numerous forums I eventually decided to check every fuse on the car until I eventually got to the one I have circled ....and it was blown. I replaced it and hey presto....everything is back as it should be 😀 Just to recap. Dipped beam lights remained on when ignition was on, irrespective of switch position ( i actually removed the switch and lights remained on!). Rear fog lights not working and neither was the removable rechargeable torch in the boot. Hope this helps someone else faced with the same issue. Best wishes folks 👍 😀

Travel Assist keeps your car between lines and keeps distance to the car in front. It does not only kick in to correct your heading only when you are about to cross the line, it actually steers car, so basically driving becomes hands-free. As someone regularly doing long trips across Europe, I find this stuff to be very useful. 1000+km in one day and don't feel tired, only butt hurts a bit after sitting for long time.

This is wrong wiring diagram, it shows pre-1997 with a 6pin unit. Plus, it doesn't show door connectors. This is the correct one: T12a and T2r are connectors under the carpet on the fron left A-pillar, T12b and T2u same on the right

Why would anyone assume a road is 40 having previously been in a 30 zone unless you've passed a sign saying so?

Just had a look at mine, and a couple of photos below. When refitting the A331H blade it needed a bit of a wiggle to push fully home. After the initial pressing in the lock catch to insert it into the arm, it then hit what felt like a ‘stop’, a slight pressure towards the rear screen allowed it to slot fully in and engage the locking catch.

There's never a shortage of opinions on 'Assist' systems, undoubtedly well meant for the most part. Since you've paid extra to have Travel Assist, it's worth taking the time to try out the different elements of it for yourself. Determining the benefits is a subjective exercise, after trialling it you'll soon decide what works for you and in which environments.

I'm not so sure about that, veneers are used on real top end luxury cars because they can book match veneers so that large panels such as dashboards can be perfectly symmetrical so that both sides of the dashboard are identical. The veneer is bonded onto real wood before being sanded, lacquered and polished.

As said the messages disappear in a short while just ignore if you don't want to move your hand off the SW.

Hi welcome. You'd have to check of course but it sounds like you might just need a replacement light switch. You'd probably be better looking in and/or asking in the 'Škoda Yeti' forum on Briskoda. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/170-škoda-yeti/ HTH.

Latest Car Guru UK youtube video.... Mainly about the 370 mile than the 261 mile version I have ordered but the 360 mile WLTP (can be surpassed or not reached) and is bigger battery is the one most commonly ordered. Bigger battery one RRP is just over £40k but discounts out there mean one can be had for much less. My £37.5k version is out there for about £33K I have seen. As said low finance at 4.9%, better than many mortgages out there.

Latest Updated Speedcams - September, 2024. Here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( September, 2024 ). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Redlight Speedcams, Fixed Speedcams, Average Speedcams and Variable Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the speedcam categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams - September, 2024.zip * Credit, past and present, to Nyky from Gpsurl for the use of his database without which these files would not be compiled.

@leolito I agree with the wood finish, trouble is I haven't seen a mk3 with that option, maybe there is an aftermarket wood finish somewhere for them? I had that option as standard on my mk2 but my family always thought it was old-fashioned, so I guess you can call me old-fashioned then because I still love the look and finish of real wood. I used to have a Vanden Plas 3Litre and that the dashboard made from beautiful walnut, door cappings and picnic tables, just like a Rolls.

I got so much to update, done my 1st service, some towing, and so on, but can't seem to find the time ... hope soon, to exchange impressions. In the meantime, I did manage to "unbling" part of the interior by removing the glossy, ghastly, gear knob cover. This is what I've chose instead, more to my liking ... little but 🤩 Hope someday to be able to do the same with the horrid 'piano black' trim, which I know many like, but to me it can't beat nice "wood" type finish.

Further to my post above, I have a 16” steel rim with 205/55 tyre, it’s classed as a temporary spare as my road wheels are 205/55 17” - a different circumference. Looking in the wheel well, I reckon there is space for a slightly higher profile 205/60 16” . It’d be tight though. The toolkit insert fits fine under the boot floor no problem with the items I have. Part numbers are posted above.

As stonekeeper states above, the 40 section was in a streetlit area, either side of the 40 limit is a 30 limit residential streetlit area. They only need to remove the 40's to make it a 30.

Some success today. Replaced the H4 connector and female spade connectors. This did make a difference. The RH lights is working, park and dipped beam. LH is not working. Did test the LH with a new bulb but no joy. Suspect the issue is on the LH side of the car. Ignition switch and light switch is on its way. While I was in there I had the battery tray out to check the connection to the reverse light switch - ok. Should have had the car in reverse to check continuity across the 2 terminals. Noted that the "mechanic" had cut tie wraps to the wiring loom and didn't put connectors back in their holders, these were left free to hang inside just behind cooling pack. Rectified that. Also rerouted the aircon lines to run in the holder that is part of the battery tray. All neat and tidy now but this will be undone when the engine mounts are replaced. They are shot.

Not if you correctly change the bulb types specified in the BCM to LED using VCDS, OBDeleven, etc.

A final reply to my own thread the mk 2 went to wbac today with 145k on it still going strong but turbo vane overboost limp mode was getting more frequent there were also a couple of other thing needing doing from the last mot. What finally prompted the sale was having to pay £12.50 to visit my son who lives in London. In its place is a 2020 mk 3 petrol in lovely race blue. Good luck all Regards Roger.

All depends on where you live, how you drive, how you expect the tyres to perform. The wheel and tyres sizes offered on modern cars are more form over function more party frocks and high heels than sensible wear for what's required. Whilst the car is new to a driver then the standard tyres it comes with are best whilst the driver learns the vehicle and what it can do then after a reasonable period of learning and adjustments if wanted then a change of tyres (better still, if possible to smaller wheels and narrower tyres with more sidewall height for our 3rd-world roads, grip and perform can be retained or improved from original wheel and tyre sizes). I used to give a set of tyres up to 1,000 miles to see if I like them, mainly on performance vehicles, but that luxury is in the past, now I adapt my driving to suit what's on the car until the tyres need changing and improve the tyres then.

Michelin's advice on summer, winter and all-season tyres can be read here https://www.michelin.co.uk/auto/advice/choose-tyres/summer-winter-all-season-tyres If you will be getting a Monte Carlo model with the 1.5litre motor, according to Skoda's website the OE tyres for 17"-diameter wheels will be 215/45 R17 size and either Kumho Ecsta PS 71 (Wet Grip A ) or Bridgestone TURANZA Eco (Wet Grip B ). The optional 18"-diameter wheels are shod with 215/40 R18 Continental ContiSportContact 5 (Wet Grip A ). Living in central England for most of my life, I've never found any persuasive reason to swap the 'summer' tyres fitted as original equipment to my new vehicles for 'all season' equivalents when it came time to change those tyres. In the rare spells of very cold winter weather over the years I would have liked to have had 'full winter' tyres fitted, but, If I planned to drive regularly in such conditions, I would not be choosing a Fabia in which to do it. Good luck with your quest for "...a decent set of tyres fitted rather than those Eco tyres which don't offer the best grip in the UK climate.". There are plenty of 'best tyre' reviews online, but my own opinion is that you'd be wasting your money.

I am going for 'Premier Motaquip' on the vague promise of a 5 year guarantee. Not holding my breath though. Will let you know how it goes. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176345099484

There's a similar story on here somewhere where the OP got an independent auto engineer/inspector involved, who was able to demonstrate that Skoda's diagnosis was nothing better than a guess. When further disassembly/inspection occurred it was shown to be plain wrong, and a faulty from manufacture clutch was shown as the most likely cause. That's all from memory, I'll try to find the thread for you tomorrow if no-one else does first.

Not sure you understand how a clutch works as what you said makes no sense, the original poster is correct in his assumption, I do find however that the hydraulic system in these cars do have quiet a high biting point. It may sound obvious but get the clutch bled out again, if you need to push the pedal to the floor to disengage the clutch it sound like air in the system, if the biting point is a bit random also suggests air in the system making it inconsistent.

+1 👍