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Hope you don’t mind me indulging. Been working on a Victorian gatehouse for a couple of years now, with the roof taking up a large chunk of that time. My son and I have been working with a slater, sorting, holing and cutting bullets out of Welsh slate. The slater does the final sorting and fixing to the roof. The bullets are all done and the last few slate are going on Monday with the roof all completed by the end of next week. We are really pleased with how it’s turned out, with lots of compliments from the locals, though less so from other trades people.. “what you doing all that fancy crap for?..” Still got a way go go with the whole project but another milestone reached.

Which is a lovely offer More generally though people can also email [email protected] (with your Reg No and/or VIN) to request the digital record, in my case they took around 5 days to provide it which I don't think is too shabby

Which is all very nice but it doesn’t change the fact that although EVs may be good for the “high street” environment (noted other environments are available) there is a cost to pay elsewhere.

Sounds good, glad you are enjoying it! They are a great drive, I have a long drive (Plymouth to Alton Towers) at the end of October, itll be the first decent run in mine ap hoping for similar. Mine has had one gearbox service already, its definitely not going to harm it and I think its good preventative maintenance.

Again, what's with the fascination of deflecting away from a truism? I never mentioned any form of materials , I spoke very generically about EVs being good for the place they are being used in (which they are) at the expense of moving problems elsewhere in the supply chain, which includes (but is not explicit) power generation pollution as well as any potential additional mining impact etc etc etc

I cannot dispute that at a local level at point of use EVs are both better for air quality and also offer less noise pollution. At the probable expense of moving problems elsewhere in the supply chain

Sounds very similar to my DQ200 however mine will slip rather than judder. Like yours it's intermittent and it improves/disappears when driving in manual mode. Temperature seems to play a part but I can't identify any specific trend between hot and cold, dry or damp. I also have a suspicion that engine loading plays a part but have not found a way to investigate further. I suggest the following in this order: Find someone with a VCDS who knows how to interrogate the transmission system. My money is on a solenoid valve problem in the Mechatronic which may be sticking due to the lack of oil changes in the DQ200. ( Skoda say it's not needed, my 180k mile DSG oil change would beg to differ ). A VCDS showing live data can compare pressures needed vs pressures delivered to the valves along with lots of other useful information, but again you need someone who knows what their looking at....which isn't me by the way. If one is available, get the transmission software updated at your Skoda dealer. It may not solve the problem but would hopefully change the way your DSG shifts between gears and could prove that the 2nd gear clutch is actually OK. I had mine done but if anything it made it worse as the slipping became evident during other gear changes after the upgrade. Cost of an update should be about £100, hence this is one of the first things to try. Next thing would be to get the Mechatronic and transmission oils changed. As mentioned above, this is deemed unnecessary by Skoda, but that's total BS. No oil will last forever and it's a relatively straight forward and cheap process to get done. The only downside is that you can't change the Mech oil filter unless to strip down the unit to get to it and I wouldn't recommend that unless you get a repair kit with new gaskets and seals for reassembly. Cost for my oil change was £38.59 for the oils ( there a two ) + £75.00 labour. Next option would be to have the Mechatronic reconditioned. There are companies that will run benchtop diagnostics on the unit and hopefully identify what the problem is. Your symptoms do point to a bad solenoid IMO but they would be able to confirm. Downside is that you'd have to get the Mech unit removed and posted to the re-manufacturing company so you'd be without a car for a couple of weeks. A special tool is required to remove and refit the Mech from/to the transmission, it's not too expensive but it's only function is just that. Cost of a refurb in UK starts at about £700. Lastly if all of the above have failed, you may need a new clutch pack. Cost of this for me was £391 for the clutch, £323 for a new flywheel. The flywheel may not be needed but as the clutch is getting done it's saves repeating the biggest cost of the job which was £500 ( 10hrs ) labour. The new clutch pack has done absolutely nothing to fix the problem but did manage to drain my bank account by a tidy sum so this is why I'd carry out this step last. Now I didn't follow the steps above in the order in which they are listed and consequently still have an bad DSG. I don't know anyone who knows much about VCDS so point 1 has still not been carried out successfully. Points 2, 3 & 5 have been done and I still have a bad box.

If new service centre does not offer, politely insist on battery condition and alternator output test be carried out as 1st priority.

Do you accept that an ICE vehicle with a 10 gallon (yes I know its not sold in gallons any more but makes maths easier as we measure in Miles Per Gallon even though it's sold in litres) tank and that gets 40mpg will in X years still have (presuming regular maintenance etc) a 400 mile theoretical range whereas an EV which when new has a theoretical range of 400 miles (again made up numbers) with 50% battery degradation will likely only have a theoretical range of 200 miles? Not botheed about whether the performance changes or BHP is lost or how much is wasted as heat, the cost of the fuel or any of the other deflection techniques being employed, do you accept the above premise?

Got it. What you put in as far as diesel, petrol or LPG is what you put in, litres, we do not buy in gallons anymore. The Diesel & Petrol pretty much stays as is, hygroscopic more or less depends on the formulation for the season produced. Ethanol Content / Bio can vary, but it is what it is, even if many have no idea other than they buy and run it. You might get condensation in the tank, and maybe storage tanks with mould, and Unleaded goes off. That is Internal Combustion Engines fuels. You get what you buy and you use what you use. Unlike BEV,s batteries of various types. They have losses. Can we get more truths about Electric Vehicles and forget now that a ICE Fuel Tank holds what it holds unless it leaks of the fuel is stolen? PS If a EV,s battery losses the capacity it had when new and you do not need the full capacity anyway then why give a ****. If you are not getting one, then you need not give it a 2nd though, and if you get a lease vehicle for work or pleasure / transport then it is not really worth bothering you pretty little head!

And two thirds of that 10 gallons goes as waste heat to heat mother earth... Range 300 miles from an EV or a ridiculous, unnecessary 800 miles for some ICE cars. (Some ICE struggle to do 300 miles, recall a trip in a Jaag XK which needed filling twice in a day). Sort of makes sense when your refill station is 1 or 5 whatever miles away rather than on your drive, or on the journey, or at your work or car park and of course if there is some world political situation, or budget, that somehow massively ramps up the price of fuel, at least you might have a week or 3 before the car becomes the most expensive oversized music player taking up 5 metres of drive or road space. I can fill my EVs from lecky made from a fusion reactor in the nearest star ie Sol, from wind in the North Sea, from pump storage from Dinorwig at at less than a fiver to give it those 300 miles. I have worked out which tech is better for mankind, the next generation and it is not burning stuff in an ICE vehicle. https://www.aaa.com/autorepair/articles/how-efficient-is-your-cars-engine

Thanks again for responses. I’m just not happy committing to ECU change until at least had a second opinion as I do not feel it’s a 100% guaranteed fix or even necessary I do remember them saying “I do not think it would be wiring” or in other words they’ve not bothered to check this hence now lack of confidence. So I’m also questioning if they bothered to check battery. I have taken a recommendation of a different authorised Škoda dealer who happily booked me in early next week & sound keen/confident of repairing it (Complete contrast to my usual dealer!) Will report back with progress next week 👍

IFAIK, there are several factors at play that ensure a good gas seal, and not all rings are fitted to do the same job, they can have different purposes and profiles. 1) There are several piston rings which are normally staggered when fitted, as @Warrior193 said 2) The gap in the piston ring closes somewhat when the piston is fitted (squeezed into) into the cylinder. (Otherwise you wouldn't be able to fit the piston without risking damage to the cylinder.) 3) Thermal expansion takes up a bit of the gap too. 4) The oil film also helps the gas seal. 5) The pressure of the combustion also contributes to forcing the rings outwards to form a tight seal against the cylinder wall. The sum of those factors results in a good gas seal for effective compression and power stroke.

Did you mean “degradation” ?

Is it better, worse or no different from a cold start? It's concerning that it's an intermittent fault. Even if you can't actually attend a gearbox specialist, there's nothing to stop you phoning one up and asking for advice. You might be lucky if you find a helpful one, they may be able to diagnose your problem by talking to you. https://letmegooglethat.com/?q=DSG+gearbox+experts+UK If you really hit it off and have confidence in the tech, it might be worth driving some distance to get the problem sorted once and for all.

Sometimes you can find a tiny amount of water in those areas because the black plastic cover does not have (like a Corvette) a sealant gasket with the car body. After many years the gasket (in the oval shape) due to friction with the hood (open-close procedure) maybe will get rubbed and let some water drops to pass inside but ''No big deal". As for the water inside the fuse box-factory sponge then the culprit is the wind shield sealant which has been vanished due to sun-age etc. First clean thoroughly the whole area, use alcohol with a cloth to remove any remains, let it dry or use compressed air and then you apply the sealant.

I disagree, common silicone won't work except if it's Aquarium type which can last even 10 years. There are more efficient products, ''windshield gasket sealant'' is the key phrase, an example: https://www.3m.co.uk/3M/en_GB/p/d/b40067005/ There are drain holes in the bottom of the door, check them if they clogged. For the drain channels of the sides you can use a tool that electricians have.

Losing BHP isn't the same though as the fuel tank capacity shrinking, which is the point that was being made

The reason manufacturers use 0w oils is to get the fuel consumption down. Hereis something on oils https://youtu.be/zLBgIve1YzY? There are some interesting results.

Have I missed something, how did it pass an MoT if a seat belt (anchorage /stalk??) couldn't be tested? - https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/7-other-equipment#section-7-1-2

Yes it does. If you PM me I can check. Thanks. AG Falco

People hide an awful lot of bad behaviour in vague terms and comforting-sounding phrases. This garage sounds like they could be fobbing you off with vague waffle. The trick is to pin them down to specifics. Ask more specific questions. Forget asking about your "service". Ask "When my car was with you, was the engine oil and filter changed? Which oil was used? Was the air filter changed? Was the fuel filter changed?" etc. Ask them WHO performed the work, get a name. Then ask for the paperwork confirming all this. If they fob you off and tell you it's all been done and you have no need to worry, without providing details and evidence, then maybe you have been mugged off. Make allowances for dippy reception staff and busy service managers, but be persistent. Don't encourage the idea that if they just keep fobbing you off for long enough, eventually you will go away. I'd be looking for another garage for the next service, as you clearly don't trust this one.

A quick guide for the Octavia 4 (NX) platform car for adding the glove box cooling, a simple mod, demonstrated here on a RHD UK car. Tools Reqd: T20 Torx screwdriver Trim pry tool Parts Reqd: 5E0816355 (Valve/Vent) 5E0816311 (Air Hose) Skoda Parts Direct (in the UK) quoted me £28.58 for these. Step 1 - use trim pry tool to remove the passenger dash side panel. If you remove the airbag swich connector you'll likely get a fault code (definitely if you turn the ignition on with this disconnected), so have your VCDS/OBDEleven ready to reset this - or leave it connected. Step 2 - undo the two screws shown with black arrows, releasing the side of the glove box. Step 3 - unhook the glove box damper arm (orange arrow). Depress the tabs (green arrows) and allow the glove box to drop to its full extent. Undo the 3 screws at the top edge (black arrows). Step 4 - undo the two screws underneath the glove box at each end. Gently pull on the glove box and release it from the dash. Undo the 3 cables (2x lights and 1x light switch on the damper arm). Step 5 - squeeze the tab (green arrow) and pull the air distribution plenum towards you. Step6 - remove rubber blanking cap. Step 7 add hose. Step 8 - refit plenum. Step 9 - fit the vent to the existing cutout in the top of the glove box, and attach hose. Step 10 - "Refitting is reverse of removal" as the Haynes manual used to say. Enjoy cold air in the glove box! You'll note that whether the climate is set to Hot, or Cold, the glove box is always fed directly with cold air. Hope this helps someone!

Thanks very much for this update. I have also recently purchased a 2019 L&K Superb hatch and am dealing with this issue. I popped out the trim around the sunroof to find that 95% of the squeaks were away, but noticed today on a motorway run the rattle you describe. I shall try some grease tomorrow and see how that works out. Quite annoying. Also the odd groan from the driver side A frame trim spoils another wise excellent car. Hopefully I can iron out these issues in time.

Did you turn the ignition off? Engine off from start/stop then locking the car does not switch ignition off. I do this mistake sometimes then wonder why are the eyelashes still on an hour later. For haldex, get the pump seals and new drain bolts. Haldexrepairs should have a service kit special for this. One last thing to check is when was the last gearbox service

I accept you could highly dilute the vinegar and then thoroughly rinse with water but just a word of caution you don't want to use vinegar if there is a chance that there might be some rubber involved.

OK guys, let's cool it down a bit can we, we all know that ICE is not as efficent as electric in converting an energy source into movement, we also, or at least we are told that the overall pollution of of EV is way less than it's ICE equivelent. All that is being claimed here is that, which started this heated discussion is that a 12 year old EV which had a new range of approx 140 miles, now only can do approx 30+ miles, whereas you can take a ICE car of similar age or even older, brim it and it will still do the same miles that it did when it was new. There is no need for the EV guys to attempt to demonised ICE cars on the amount of BHP lost or the amount of pollution they create. Just because someone has pointed out a fact that you don't like, you don't have to go into full on attack and defend your EVs. I have to say that it is no wonder that you are called evangelists 🙄. Fact that what has been claimed ICE is a fact. What some of you are claiming about in the future has yet to be proven, which I say that I have seen all kinds of claims by experts and politicians alike before about the filthy dirty diesels, and history may well be repeating in the not so distant future. So please can we all remember that we need to keep it in perspective here? 👍

Same theory can be applied to ICE, if the ICE no longer gets 40 mpg, let's say 20 mpg, how much range degradation do you get? I know 40 decrease to 20 mpg is unrealistic. So is your 50% battery degradation example.

SOLVED: Embarrassingly... there wasn't enough fuel in the system to get compression and start. So folks, always think simple! 🤦‍♂️

@Joob Let's hope that this was your final problem and the engine will start and work properly, then it's time for the champagne.

Yes and the UK is much less than 1% of the world population and in the massively populated countries of Asia, half the world's population they are getting rid of ICE vehicle at a pace faster than us Westerns. To many Asia countries fuel is relatively more expensive as their income is often well under 1000 dollars a month so running an EV saves massively over ICE. The majority of EVs are 2 or 3 wheel rather than 4 but theacquiring of EVs is in the hundreds of million rather than the few millions in the West. Being able to run their EVs for a few dollars a month, rather than using that Russian oil which is currently supplying China, India and many other SE Asian countries, helping finance their Ukraine war, is saving families in Asia a huge chunk of their family budget. The West tinkers while Asia transforms.

This can often be the case. Either the new sensor might not be fully appropriate and/or a lot of new stuff is poorly made and it is chance how well it works, or at all. Sometimes (not always) you can be better sticking with an original part than replacing with a new part, even regardless of the manufacturer or manufacturer's label on the box. As a general rule for me always Japanese over Chinese or German for these sort of things (and generally).

I wonder: Today you can buy an ICE car built in the 20's that wont have lost any range and probably performs as well as it did when new. Wonder if people in 100 years will be able to day the same of EVs?

Passed a milestone on the way to work the other day.... I'm a child at heart

You really need to look more at data and less at shrieking headlines. https://ourworldindata.org/co2/country/china

This is going to depend on your negotiating, and if the dealer needs the stock. But they could play hardball and only accept the cancellation if you order replacement (and they are under no obligation to offer good discount on replacement). You won't really know until you try, but set yourself a limit where you will say no deal prior to going there, write it on bit of paper, get it out after a while, look at it (don't show them the number) then start to walk if not what you decided.

No GPF,s with a 1.2 TSI. or the first of the 1.0 TSI, later 2018 they were fitted.

Yes as above your car should "probably" have G12 or G12 evo, and "apparently" G40 is a longer shelf-live and interval, less performance oriented type of coolant. I would stick to what is prescribed for your car and stay away from strange alchemy mixes. If you just need a small top up and don't want to faff about with buying collant and mixing it (if "concentrare" you need to dilute it, is not "ready for use"), just get some distilled water, small quantities up to say half a liter/liter will not endanger the "mix" of coolant in the car and will dispel any worries of chemistry misalignment between types of coolant. Mind you, we are going very deep into mechanical fetish here ... most people and cars go with tap water and so be it 🤪 PS: as you state your car is 2016, by now you should have had at least one coolant replacement, unless you bought used and have no record. In that case, I'd advise having a full replacement with the pescribed type, and leave the bottle of G40 as a donation to whoever does the service and be done with it .... 😁

Your profile says Fabia mk1

That not best, when you bought it it didn't have the cumulative effect of all those short runs but 70k-miles is more than my wife's 2015 and it goes fine, turbo fine, engine not sluggish even when cold (but it is allowed to fully warm up, 90+C oil temperature) before being pushed, 90 hp 1.2 TSI 5-speed. About around 44mpg IIRC, lots of just 2-mile journeys. What is a short run, does your oil temperature get up to 90+C for a reasonable part of those runs? Has your car got one of those GDF/PPF ( gasoline/petrol particulate filter or called summat like that) things (I can never remember which ones do)? As already asked, what are all the tyre pressures like, when were the spark plugs changed, when was the engine air filter last changed, what's the history mileage/time interval of engine oil and filter changes? Dragging brakes or partially blocked exhaust but you might notice those on oil temperature if not the 90C biased coolant temperature (see a theme here). Not directly related to this but change or at least check of brake fluid, inspection at least of brakes are more important than anything on the engine - brakes, steering, suspension (all three incudes tyres) then safety electrics, lights, reflective number plates, windows and mirrors (see and be seen) all more important than engine, but back to engine. Does your start/stop system always activate when it should? Nobody expects the Spanish Inquisition, but more questions are to get more information, sudden 20% drop in mpg has to have a reason (the actual mpg isn't as relevant in this case as there are so many variables to comparisons) I can easily get my neighbour's car to lower mpg with him as a passenger just for the fun of twinging his natural Yorkshire nature, and also demonstrated to him that (off cruise control which I never use, I did once in the 1980s but I didn't like it) ignoring the cars suggested gear selections (6-manual) can improve mpg as the biological electronic brain knows more than the car's computer program and inputs (well for now anyway).

Thank you. The problem is that I can't really find a real specialist per se in my area, therefore I posted it here hoping for someone with such an experience or knowledge to run into this post and give me a hint on what could possibly be the root cause. To clarify something; I notice now that I have emphasized so much the 'driving at high speed, driving at low speed' in my first comment.. (because that's what I felt was the case) however I believe (as far as I can observe now) that it is all coming down to having an issue with/at gear 2, and, the more it is used the more noticable becomes. As simple as that I'd say. The fact that it goes aways sometimes.., well, I feel it simply happens (regardless 'driving low speed / driving high speed). Sometimes it goes somewhat away, to become apparent again later. Idk..

Doesn't sound right to me, I have the dq200 7 speed dsg box, second Octavia I've owned with this transmission, always had 100% smooth gear changes in all gears, no matter what speed I'm at. If you are wanting to keep it, may be best to have an independent gearbox specialist for them to take a look & give you their opinion.

This is extremely helpful, I will do as you say. Thank you for your advice, it is much appreciated.

Hi, is this a manual or DSG gearbox? Check wheel hubs for unusual heat after a drive, it's possible that the brakes have started binding.

Hello, thx for the help, there was actually unknown objective in rails limiting the movement, at first I thought it belong there but it didint. Pics below, it seems to be part of previous owners kid seats safety belt system.

I'm not sure how applicable the system update portal link will be for a 2022 Fabia SE L car. Updates for my 2024-built Fabia SE L are normally OTL (Over The Air), rather than being carried out by the owner. I experimented with the update portal by entering my car's VIN. This was accepted and (for navigation file updates) produced the following However (to the best of my knowledge) my Fabia Mk 4 has no SD-card reading capability. The Owner's Manual for my car advises as follows

BXE, Big Xploding Engine, no, don't, likely drop a rod through the block!

Unplug the single-wire connector from the oil pressure switch, looking for oil inside the connector. If there is any, replace the switch.

I think it's worth having a close look with a torch along any of loom you can get at for any chafing. You might have to get it up on stands. Check especially around gearbox and steering rack. Have a (long!) read of this thread from the VCDS forum. It's about a Sharan but both the scan and the symptoms are very similar to yours. I must admit I wouldn't power it up too many times until the fault is found just in case you cause a direct short to earth on one of the larger cables which might create a fire risk. A day or two off and a fresh look and I'm sure you will find it Good luck with it. 🙂 Below is a VW forum picture posted by a VW Master Tech. It shows the sort of thing pronged chafing can cause. This one was simply a non-start but when these larger high current wires break or short across to another they usually cause the major problems you have. This one looks like it has been shorting and overheating.

I've no idea about VCDS but generally you always want the latest version updated/up to date versions of any programs (for your model and year of VW) to reduce risks of any program errors omissions on diagnostic tool. If you've not already tried, I've seen Ross-Tech do info and have a users forum which may give help. I forget which vids but similar sort of issue(s) diagnostic path(s) with checking and cross-checking of scan tool info are on this blokes YT channel (personally I wouldn't trust some auto-electricians and mains electricians as far as I could throw them, just what I've seen and personal experience employing and working with some mains electricians), Milligan Auto Diagnostics - https://www.youtube.com/@mrautoservices7354/videos