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Parts fitted, new nice MOT present I forgot the new rear end would require 4 wheel alignment until I drove the car 200 yards away from the garage. OMFG, the car leapt around the road like nothing I've experienced before. The alignment jonny showed me the read out on the screen showing 6 degrees out both sides ... technically that means nothing to me, apparently it's a lot. 15 minutes later, £100 poorer and with a feeling I've just had my bottom smacked, but the car is now driving perfectly so I'm not THAT bothered.

This is how i waterproofed all of my doors. 1.First of all all the original foil removed, glue residue removed with label remover. 2. First layer of foil applied with the bottom part put inside the door, so that any rain water flows into the door and out through the holes as it should: 3. I then applied a second layer of foil just like the original stuff, using butyl tape to seal it. Notice how i used a single piece of it and routed it above the threaded door card clips: 4. For the front doors I also replaced the standard plastic threaded inserts for speakers with rivnuts, clamping the foil with them as well so it all became very water tight. With the above approach I've been able to permanently stop water getting onto the sills and leaking inside.

and the other wing is now done: Which has given me a real mood lift in thinking about how I can get this thing back on the road. I'd better order some wheel arch liners to keep all this work SAFE. So what's left to do is both buckets that sit between the wing and the light cluster, the other rail, and the mess round the windscreen. As ever, the windscreen is left till last because I'm using the rest of the welding to learn on first. Still haven't managed to source a replacement windscreen either so that's something to think about. Getting cold isn't it

poked it with the air shears till I realised I couldn't turn a corner with them (maybe this is user error) then did the rest with a worn down, thus smaller and more manoeuvrable angle grinder disk. Gradually worked over the new return with the joggling stick, finally gave a couple of choice areas a whack with the hammer and I ended up with this: Which seems to fit on the car like THIS: Which I would have to categorise as feeling flipping awesome! We can get this stuff DONE, can't we?!

I'd be nervous if all they're offering replace is the screen, as the real infotainment 'brain' isn't in the screen. I'd make a fully working infotainment a condition of the purchase, possibly with an additional parts and labour commitment from them?

Getting colder today........

New to the forum and this is my first post! I had the pleasure of buying a second hand citigo from Oldham in Manchester for £4250 with 43K miles. I bought from Plymouth and drove up with my stepdad to collect. This replaced my aging Toyota iQ that had awful paint peel and was having some age related mechanical issues. after 8 months of ownership I noticed rust around the fuel filler cap. After getting onto my local ŠKODA dealership about it, they offered a partial warranty repair and expected me to pay either £400 or £800 depending on the level of work. I wasn’t happy about this as they said it was essentially my fault for not getting a body inspection done. I argued back saying that the car had a full service history with a Volkswagen dealership and surely they would have done this. I stuck to my guns and got in touch with ŠKODA head office and explained the situation. After 8 weeks(!) of them working on it, I got a phone call from the local Murray ŠKODA again saying they were going to cover the full repair FOC and gave me a walloping great big Kodaq to use without charge too along with a massive apology! just heard from them today too and they said it needs a full panel replacement. I’m glad they’ve done it but what a hassle. if anyone else is going through this explain that THEY should have done the body inspections as per their servicing schedule and ask them why THEY didn’t do it.

Change of heart, I can't bring myself to scrap the old girl, I'd rather get an MOT and sell it to someone who can get a few more years out of it. Parts for the MOT came to £300 with labour likely to be £500+, a sale in the current climate should cover my costs and help towards something else.

Read the guide below and watch the YouTube video which is extremely useful and shows you an update process in real time. Only perform this procedure if you are confident in doing so and it is at your own risk. Apparently, Skoda has stated this will be the last major software version update for the Skoda Octavia Mk4s, although I imagine the mid-Mk4 facelift models will get further updates. I applied the update to my Octavia Estate First Edition 2021 plate and all seems to have gone smoothly but it goes without saying manually update only if you are confident performing the procedure and it's at your own risk. FYI, I updated from version 1969. You will need an ExFat formatted USB-C type drive - oddly my Sandisk Micro SD Card with USB-C adapter wasn't detected by my Octavia so I switched to a 1TB USB-C Lacie hard drive I had lying around and that worked fine. You can tell if your drive is "compatible" and has mounted when you start the update process as, at one stage you will have to select either "USB1" or "USB2" - if a drive is mounted/detected one of these will be in bold. 1. Download the compressed package from one of the two links below: Octavia Infotainment Update Version 1985 - Google Drive https://e.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=XZSh8xZ7iUQu9K1u4uwTGbHqtxFE7m0OFtV 2. Create a temporary folder on your PC or Tablet, for example, MU1985 3, Locate the downloaded compressed file package and then right-click on it or press and hold on it, so the menu appears and it should offer you the opportunity to Extract here or elsewhere, tell it to extract the files to the MU1985 folder and let it get on with it. When it has finished extracting the files you will have the following TWO folders (previously there has been a third file but not this time, just the two folders below): Data Meta 4, Copy the above two folders directly to the root of your ExFat formatted UB-C drive. These two folders need to be at the root / top level of the USB-C drive, not contained in any other folder and you don't want anything else on that drive THERE MUST BE NO OTHER FILES / FOLDERS THAN THIS. Once done you are ready to move to your car to start the update. 5, Insert your USB-C drive into one of the front USB ports and put your car in ignition mode, which you need to do to apply the update, just press the Start Stop button on its own, without depressing the Clutch / Brake which you would do if you were starting the engine I also switched off the climate control before proceeding although I imagine the Update process would disable its functioning anyway. At this point, you must have a full or very well-charged car battery so that the car doesn't shut down halfway through the process. The ignition needs to be ON, the Engine needs to be OFF (NOT RUNNING)! DO NOT START IT DURING THE PROCESS. 6. Hold the "Menu" button until the engineering menu appears. 7, Watch this video which essentially shows you in real-time the update process. It's in German but it's easy to follow and the video relates to software version 1941 but it's essentially the same process. https://youtu.be/4AsSbGd3caU Be warned, there are moments when the screen goes black, the system reboots and the CPU upgrade stage looks like it has frozen but it hasn't. Just be patient, let the system do its thing and you should get a successful update of your system. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES MUST THE PROCESS BE STOPPED ONCE IT HAS STARTED OTHERWISE YOU'LL MORE THAN LIKELY NEED A NEW INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM. Notes. After it has finished updating the system, give it a couple of minutes to ensure that all is well and like it shows on video press resume an wait for about 90s or so and the system will restart just, like in the video. DO NOT START THE CAR UNTIL THE SYSTEM HAS RESTARTED After the update the built-in manual is unlikely to be available for about 48hrs, it does come back! You will more than likely receive another OTA update, it's OK to accept it. Ultimately if you are at all worried about doing it, take it to a VW Independent or Skoda dealer and ask them to do it for you.

I picked up my new Octavia Sportline in Royal Green a few weeks ago. I haven't yet seen another Skoda in this colour, not on the road or at a dealership. Has anyone else got one in this colour or seen another on the road yet?

Hi All, So I got a new 4.5 Estate VRS with just the Velvet Red paint, however I was expecting it to have the horned rear headrests for rear passangers to sleep better (stops neck ache) and the eletric parcel shelf which are standard on EU and UK broucher even mentions it as standard equipment. This isnt the case we get poor head rests with no support and bog standard parcel shelf. So buyers be aware we don't get as good as EU brothers get. Smoe

So after having a few bits kicking around for long enough, that I'd ordered online. I finally found the time to give the car a bit of love. Debadged and added some cleaner looking Skoda emblems front and back. New gloss mirror caps due to a few chips and fitted the smoked, Audi style repeaters. Finished off with new numberplates, going for a Lamborghini style on the rear just cos I thought it matched the boot angles nicely. Gloss black roof wrap, smoked rear light units and front fogs courtesy of The Wrap Pod in Featherstone West Yorks. Then an amazing job done by Aaron at Aztec Valeting & Detailing in Altofts West Yorks, with interior valet & single stage paint correction and machine polish and ceramic coating. Due to a mix up, gonna have it back in with him in a couple weeks time for calipers repainting and all 4 wheels refurbed. I know the colour is a bit Marmite, but I love it! Definitely feel the detailing was money well spent

Having read some of the comments I am wondering if I should cancel my purchase as whilst the car is one owner,with full service history including a very recent new cambelt it has covered 102,000 miles. No record of DPF replaced and this is not covered in the 6 month warranty. I would lose my £300 deposit, but a new DPF I undrstand is very expensive. For a further £2000 I could buy a 2 year newer {2017] model with 80k miles,. Bought this as a friend has the same car with 126,000 miles and he has never had any prolems at all,, its ready for collection in 7 days so would love any comments to help me decide.

245/40 R19 are 678mm diameter, about 42mm bigger than 225/40 R18 An extra 21mm is likely to hit bodywork at certain suspension moves when hitting bumps

How many people without driveways actually drive EV's? Are those without driveway a minority or majority within the EV driving population? Thus currently most EV drivers do charge at home. Finance dictates people's behaviour. No one who can charge at home will go and do public charging. Even for free, rapid charging weekly is just not convenient, wastes time. The door handle is no problem after freezing rain. Just turn on pre conditioning and press the smaller side a few times. The smaller side can be pressed in a tiny bit for breaking the ice on the larger bit. https://www.tesla.com/ownersmanual/model3/en_tw/GUID-F907200E-A619-4A95-A0CF-94E0D03BEBEF.html In my experience, I've had more problem opening ICE car door than EV's due to no way to precondition. Ice build up on the door seals for all cars. The green wrapped Model S plaid has many problems from day 1, it's a lemon. Totally agree, stop thinking the petrol station model. EV batteries are an asset to grid with renewables, need to get people into the mindset that a parked EV not plugged in is a wasted resource.

few further comments, having given it back over the weekend (which was not the original plan). - MIB 3 has great separation from left to right. But it doesn't have a soundstage to speak of. - the bass is there but detached. - the thoughts above - it actually had traction issues in the wet (Conti AllSeasons). Surprised at that, but it was OK. I would not want to drive this in the winter. Not bad. But I prefer my own.

You’re not alone at least. I have the same although hasn’t happened in a quite a while. Pretty sure I’ve read of at least one other user on here with similar symptoms. Other issue I get is when the rears fade on when you unlock at night, the inner portion on the boot lid doesn’t fade but pops on at the end. Will try to find thread. No idea if it’s connected or coincidental either.

Aww bum, kids were looking forward to the horned headrests. A bit of a rhetorical question, but why bother with a brochure? I also have one on order and this is my 4th vRS in a row, but there always seems to be stuff listed and not included.

Just checked and it was made in September 2015 and stated as Euro 6, ULEZ compliant, and Road Tax £20.00, which I think is a bonus. Road wheels are 18", was this standard? Thank you so much for all your info. Nice to be part of this forum.

At your earliest opportunity I'd strongly recommend REMOVING the aero trims on your wheels. Whoever at Skoda invented those trims has never washed a car properly. With the trims it's impossible to clean your wheels properly and remove all the accumulated brake dust residue around the inner rim and the sides of the spokes. Over time it'll oose through and stain the outside of the wheels. My Fabia was only 6 months old when I bought it and when I removed the aero trims it took three buckets of car shampoo with warm water and ages to clean off all the crap that was behind the trims for each wheel !! You'll need to buy the Skoda centre caps and, if your wheels are black alloys, the black wheel nut covers. I got mine on eBay.

Thanks, Water pump replaced, and serviced annually brake fluid and pollen filter changed once, all mot's are passes with some advisories for minor things which were done. I have decided to go with it as a better history than the younger one. Can't understand why th road tax is £30 while the identical 2017 model is £190 but not complaining.

Maybe listen to Mrs pick a number any number. Is it really Something like 75% of people that now have Off Street Parking, at their home is this? @32 minutes. Lilian Greenwood MP is her name. Parliamentary Under Secretary of state (Minister for Future of roads.) Best Fact Check anything she says. Her out and about coffee will be on expenses, i hope her out and about is in an EV. .................. Lovely cars. Porsche will first register lots of them, and sell new or used, quite often to Porsche / VW. I can imagine the 'Lifestyle users' are going to be more inclined to a transporter with track car or boat / jet ski or maybe a horse box...(pony) more than a caravan / trailer tent. (The 50 mph limit in the UK towing on single carriageways will help with range.) 2.5 - 2.6 miles a kWh solo. says a lot Real World, UK NSL,s. 100kWh battery or 95 kWh usable. If it has a 330 mile range that is just under 3.5 miles a kWh efficiency. 95 kWh & 2.6 miles a kWh is 247 miles, using all the battery.

Thank you all for expanding my knowledge on this subject and making me realise it’s not just a straight swap without any consequences. Thankyou for the information on the PCD being the same. After looking at the links regarding this it does seem as if the wheels will fit but the only way to really see is buy them and try it. I will then find out about clearances etc As the seller has 4 wheels all with the same Hankook tyres from the same vehicle there will not be an issue of different tyres/wheels being mixed as I will buy all 4. I will post info regarding any issues or if it goes smoothly next weekend as I can’t get wheels till Wednesday thanjs again Andwil001

So my Sep 24 Superb started exhibiting this issue over the last few days. Called dealer who couldn’t fit it in for 5 weeks. They said to call Skoda breakdown. They came today and knew straight away. Needs a software update that isn’t out yet but to get into the system and be notified of the update car would need to go into the dealer. He did what he needed to jump the queue and we can drop the car off in the next few days. Dealer must provide courtesy car or Skoda will provide rental Vehicle. Dealer has 48 hours to inspect. Clearly they are going to say we have to wait for the new software update. Suppose I will have to decide whether to wait or reject the car. Partly depends on the courtesy car they give me.

No rubber timing belts on Citigo engines, but we know what was meant Given the disaster of the "cam-belt in oil" designs in various other engines, it has made people rightly wary (Citigo has a dry belt). Post-facelift cars have lots of improvements, not least a better gearbox and wheel-arch liners on later models - I get it may be out of budget, but I'd go for these even with a higher mileage. Higher mileage is meaningless compared with usage pattern - 40k miles of mostly motorway cruising may lead to a much better car than one with 20k short-distance, stop-start driving. Hard to tell how a car has been used though. You have judge these things on a test drive - varying roads (fast/slow, bendy), some full throttle and max revs runs (these engines are surprisingly sweet if in good nick).... As for electronics, very little new stuff on the latest of the Citigos compared with early ones - the "useless junk" was mostly fitted to later Up! GTI models.

Got it in one! Thanks.

It was over 5 years ago, I think I just disconnected it and removed it from the installation list using VCDS to stop the no comms fault codes showing up.

My Ali-Express one did not work either, VCDS revealed that the ECU was not able to communicate with it, a generic OBDII reader does not interrogate the Canbus modules, all it can do is read and reset generic OBDII codes held in the main ECU, these are emissions or safety related eg EGR, ABS problems etc.

In and around the UK there are plenty Automatic Gearbox Specialists that Service & Repair DSG,s / S-tronics. That is there full time job. Maybe some are ex VW Group techs, but have a speciality now. I am lucky in having 1 a mile away, an Automatic Specialist that is.. There are others about Ex Master Techs now Independents, where you go when Dealership Fitters mess up. They own & have access to all the gear (Equipment) / tools, parts & the software and the 'knowledge' & experience. Many Main Dealers do not have this and farm the work out to the Automatic Gearbox Specialists. Those that do not often need these Specialists to sort out what their incompetent Technicians or Fitters attempt.

The tray below the light switch gives direct access to relays. Just got those off. I opened everything before realising this. The relays are out. Resistance us there in-between 85 86 pin but no clicks when I power 30 and 87

It's the whole head unit they are replacing not just the screen, sorry my bad explanation above! Unless the brains of the head unit is actually in the ECU or somewhere else. The car will still be under warranty until 2027 so I suppose I'm still covered up until then if the same issue happens again in like a years time.

The Fabia Mk 4 Owner's Manual includes a section headed "START-STOP', but the only guidance on the system's operating conditions is as shown below. Operating conditions Some conditions are systemic and can neither be influenced nor recognised. Therefore, the system may react differently in situations which seem identical from the driver's perspective. The driver must fulfil the following conditions: - The driver's door is closed. - The driver has fastened the seat belt. - The driving speed was higher than 4 km/h after the last stop. As Warrior193 has advised there will be a number of 'technical' conditions that must be met before the system will activate and (as far as I'm aware) when a Fabia Mk IV's Start-Stop system does not activate, there is no simple way to determine why. The system just moves in its own mysterious and unfathomable ways its wonders to perform. This Wikipedia entry may be of interest https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Start-stop_system#:~:text=Start-stop activation depends on,lubrication for an effortless restart.

@wyx087 -3*oC at present. This being repeated is a nonsense. 'Most people charge at home' is not true really, is that supposed private / business users of passenger cars and some with vans? The Office for national statistics & the HMRC / Government, RAC / AA does not even know how many people in the UK, how many Houses / Accommodations there are, or how many drive. Or work, pay taxes etc etc They know how many cheat benefits supposedly, odd that, why not stop them then? Winter prep starts in September for many in the UK because temps can drop even though the BBC / Sky weather will say the first real cold weather of the winter in November just as they said this week, just because it will be cold in the south. Some use winter wash all year in the UK because low night / day temps can be anytime. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/140853-get-it-ready-for-winter/page/9 Fortunately extreme low temps in the UK are not common and the Thames freezing over. But, frozen is frozen. be it at zero or minus 5 or 10 degrees C. TESLA, Amazing advances in technology.... Not. As to washing cars in freezing weather, that always amazes me for stupidity of others. But in the UK it can just be rain or thawing before a freeze, or people pouring water on the door locks to defrost or the filler flap and not expecting it to be frozen next time when they have no warm or hot water, rea or coffee handy, or do not need to pee.

Yes, a cetane improver helps or super diesel.

Once the tyres have worn in and you have had time to get used to them, please let us know what you think of the SF3s.

Porsche dealers have already put a note on their chargers about no longer being open to other brands according to a well known youtube blogger

Same car; done that. Choose replacement unit yourself. i used AliExpress replacement. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004331715616.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.2.6bc7f19cunCIY8 Color D7. The plastic bits don't reach but it 'jams' in quit securely. Difficult getting Fabia radio unit out, bit fiddly. Data: Fabia MK3 (2016) Stereo removal instructions - Skoda Fabia Guides - BRISKODA.weblocTemu | Explore the Latest Clothing, Beauty, Home, Jewelry & More.webloc. need 2 if these to get box removed. HTH DU

Most likely your cheap Chinese replacement is not so genuine... Too bad, since somewhere in the near future I will have to replace mine too. Edit: There was already an older topic about this siren, which also shows its location:

UPDATE: Drilled a hole in the underside of the Throttle Body (This was quite simple..... used a metal drill bit in a normal battery drill) Tapped out the securing pin and cap Unscrewed the two torx screws for the metal circle Remove the metal disk This will allow the centre shaft to be removed NOW WE KNOW THE ISSUE: So the issue is a BROKEN SPRING! ...... so the next questions ........... can I get a replacement spring and how much is it going to cost

Couple of photos taken last night in an empty car park illuminated by LED lamppost!, after I'd spent all day applying AutoGlym Super Resin polish followed by a coating of HD wax to protect it for the winter. Wish I'd wiped the moisture off the windscreen though!

Them discs are fitted backwards. MTEC have instructions in the box with each disc and also on their website. Who fitted them? This is how they should be https://www.mtecbrakes.com/brake_disc_fitting_bedding_in

Ahhhhh..... Yep. It's one of those "special" DSG's, which VAG put in very few cars, which is the sentient version, so it tweaks itself and adapts to your driving style, knows your birthday and likes to fool you now and again; it's learnt you really want the Eco coast mode and has dropped it in to surprise you! No idea - it's a feature I thought was only on the 6 speed DSG's (I'm guessing yours is 7 Speed?) so nice one!

Citigo/Up/Mii was a slightly shrunken Fabia platform I believe and there are various interchangeable parts. Most people who go to Fabias just need a bit more space; they are very similar cars... I reckon at current used prices it's good value at £2400. Check for rust around the fuel filler on the rear quarter, but it's not a show-stopper.

So we are all due an update I believe, So first of all ive been flat out with my new job to the point ive hardly had any time to do any car work! But ill update the small amount that has been done! Calibrate areaview - this still is yet to be done, got to find time on a sunday before it gets dark to find an empty well lit car park to get this sorted hopefully! Check the coolant leak repair - So, since the coolant pipe clips have been replaced with the constant tension type, opposed to the single ear type, i have done around 500 miles without a coolant top up! This is now called a success! I mentioned an alarm fault before replacing the battery - since replacing the battery the alarm is yet to go off, so thats a very good sign! Ambient lighting fault - Earlier I complained of an ambient light fault, this is still yet to be investigated although there are no visible symptoms. So basically, we are all on track, but I will have to scan for fault codes next weekend to see if the alarm or ambient light faults have returned! Fingers crossed no. Next up, we finally got round to fitting the canton grills in the front doors, So I first took a cut out of the fabric from the old doors and laid it on top of the sportline doorcards. This was then all marked out with a marker pen. After this we drilled out the holes, these were all odd sizes, from 6mm up to 11mm. Then the centre hole was cut out, this was done by drilling lots of 1mm holes and then using a blade to join them all together. The fabric then overhung the holes a fair bit, so the solution to this was to heat up a step drill bit till it was red hot, put it in some grips and poke it into each hole to slightly melt the fabric and allow it to retract from the hole. Next the grill itself was fitted, and as much as I wanted the backside to look pretty and as OE as possible, it was near impossible to apply pressure to the grill, keep it aligned, keep it pressed in, and keep it face down for the glue to flow into the holes, so the glue spreading on the back was my lowest concern. The 2 part epoxy was allowed to dry for 48 hours to be sure it wouldnt crack or come loose. The speaker itself was then refitted - 3V0035411E (its the same as the speaker in the centre of the dashboard) A tip to note, ETKA shows the required screws for this as N10549603 which are 4mm wide, 16mm long with a Torx 20 head. This is close, but not close enough! The actual screws are 4mm wide, 8mm long with a Torx 20 head and couldnt find a part number for these so ended up buying some from my local hardware shop. So speakers, grill and doorcard refitted, now the final product:

Milton is less aggressive than bleach and very effective at cleaning things like that.

Here an image

rear tyre / the rear axle provides stability at speed. Drive on a wet motorway with poor rear traction and you'll really feel it - the tail wags too easily and is generally unsettled. Under dodgy conditions, it's going to be super-obvious, because the rear is the part that's guiding the car around the corner. Lack of front traction will mean you just shoot forward instead of going around, lack of rear will give you oversteer. And 4x4 won't help much because it can't. It's another reason why rotation is a thing and should be practiced. I always move mine when swtiching between summer and winter.

I own an Octavia MK4 2023. I decided to add entrance lights to the rear doors as well. As is known, SKODA does not have this possibility from the factory. So I would have to improvise. Materials we will need. 2 lamps, I chose from Ali projector lamps with the SKODA logo. 2 plugs for the lamps. His code is: 893971632. Cable at least 0.35mm thick Fabric tape to make the result more factory-like.

Sorry guys but those diamond mats look hideous, they remind me of something you'd see in a tacky stretch limo, I'll stick with my superskoda mats.