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Why not try taking the fuse for the radio out, its in the engine bay fuse box no. 8 as I recall, for say 5 mins then remount, a reboot might work!

Normal engine protection. Any warning lights? Is the engine running normally? What is your normal MPG then? When were the Spark plugs changed? Presume this is a 1.0 TSI. 16K is very little mileage for a 2019 car. Thanks. AG Falco

@Neily03 makes a valid point.

Hello from Latvia! I also bought a Škoda Superb L&K 2.0TSI 4x4 (delivered in May 2024). Everything was fine until October 2024 (I drove around 5000 km at that point). I got 7 warnings related to the front camera for assistance systems and after a few days also a low 12V battery warning popped up. I gave the car back to the dealer for checkup - same story - need to wait for a software update, no one knows when it will happen. One week after the checkup I got the same errors again.. I manually re-connected fuse 22 and everything "started to work again". The Electrician at Škoda dealer also told me to regularly charge the 12V battery (I usually do short trips so kind'a makes sense..) so I listened to him and charged it a few times... and.. magic.. I haven't encountered this issue again. Of course this is complete nonsense "solution" from Škoda, but at least I can enjoy my car.. as besides these problems - I still love it!

Probably a trim level thing whether all the possible lights work or not. Vehicle lighting seems to have degenerated into primarily being decorative as opposed to functional, over the last decade or so. Indicators keep shrinking and getting masked by adjacent lights. Sad really.

There's two ways of looking at the whole Omen and Fate dilemma. 1) Thank goodness you had an issue, and another Yeti came available a day later, that was better. Or 2) It turns out to be an absolute 'belter of a car' and was worth sticking at getting it. I've had both scenarios more than once. I've had true bargains despite 7 hour train journeys, and absolutely lying sons of their fathers despite asking all the right questions and doing all the checks. Good luck either way !

As several posters have pointed out, your engine will be 1.0 (not 1.1TSI) Is there any misfiring when you get this problem? I would not absolutely rely on scheduled servicing actually being carried out fully.

Is it's a 110bhp 1.0 TSI engine? When were the spark plugs changed? Thanks. AG Falco

Sounds like normal function to me.

^^^ As above. @FabiaMK3 is there a typo & it is a 1.0TSI 110ps?

Get them to check with TPS on what oil's are listed for your engine. Thanks. AG Falco

Try leaving the car with the indicator stalk up or down, see if the front and rear side lights on side you indicate towards stay on after you close door and lock up (Parking light function). That could prove bulbs and wiring from BCM to them, if both sides work.

A Greater Manchester Police (GMP) chief is calling for officers to be given full access to the network of cameras installed for enforcement of the Clean Air Zone (CAZ). Over 400 ANPR cameras were erected ahead of the planned implementation of the charging zone in May 2022, which was then delayed and the future of which is still uncertain. Police can access information and images from the cameras which has already provided evidence in five murder cases, six gun incidents, two stabbings, four fatal crashes amongst others. https://www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk/news/greater-manchester-news/greater-manchesters-clean-air-zone-26145014

Information comes from @ixtra in seat-leon.de More info here: New maps MIB2-Std v. 2310 in seat-leon.de

Buying a “repaired” damaged car is always a lottery. If you are determined to proceed then get a full mechanical review by a qualified motor engineer, don’t rely on MOT which is simply looking for pass on certain attributes. But personally I wouldn’t touch it - there are better cars out there if you keep looking. Its just not worth the risk and the sun roof WILL leak!!

This afternoon.............

I got myself a transporter wiper arm and golf mk4 wiper motor. Motor fits fine, but the arm requires some adjustment: I sanded down probably ~1cm from the bottom of the arm: And now it fits: A job for tomorrow will be this, a very common fault. I'll probably go over to screwfix and get some tube crimps:

2 hours of 7.4 and 3.7 kws of charging so 22 kwh for the cars and should be able to get 3 kwh in to my batteries,might do some washing and drying. Will be drawing about 60 amps i reckon and those National Grid guys changed my main fuse down from 100 A to 80A but I gather the 80A actually needs about 3 minutes at 160A to blow. I am looking to build a 7 kw charger for home as the portable chargers are now very cheap, not much more than £100. Need to plug in to twin 13a or convert to a 32a commando socket. Son in law is an electrician so will get him to help.

By my calculation: - Blue car: 14 kWh - Red car: 9 kWh - Home bat: ~8 kWh ~30 kWh for free, stored for later use. May run a dishwasher clean cycle this time, done the washing machine last time. I was just thinking it'd be good to have one such session to measure temperature on the electricity wiring after battery install to ensure everything is safe when everything were drawing their maximum (7 + 5 + 5 kW). 70 amps out of 100 amps 🥵

I have extended the battery ground and connect to that to measure. Will do that. Breaking this down into smaller steps seems better way to go. Thanks

Yep, all OK at last service in January only done about 2k this year

Don't bother getting a Skoda SD card, that's only needed for the sat nav database which as you have a Bolero is pointless. Just use any SD card and put your music on it.

All those systems need speed information, so I agree with Paws4Thot.

The Air Filter box needs opening to see the state of the Air Filter and that nothing else is in there. Any Service Package likely has neither the spark plugs or air filter replaced? & has the car had new fuel in since the end of October, the fuel now being sold is winter spec / formulation. (Even petrol.)

In the photo I can see what looks like two reflectors , but can only see the top of the outer bulb. The bulb looks like the end of either an H7 or an H4. I can't see enough of the bulb to confirm, hence why I asked for a photo. There is still the possibility that the second reflector could use an H1 bulb. These can be used for main beam which is normally the in the inner position. HTH Thanks. AG Falco

I have managed to find a picture of the relays inside.

Thanks I will see if I can get an auto electrician to take a look. Appreciate your help

Sorry, meant to update this thread. The dealer apparently replaced both clutch plates about a month ago under warranty and the car has been perfect since. They seemed to be well aware of the issue after I described it to the service manager, didn't need to take it for a test drive or even demo it to a tech. I'm not sure how the car was sold with a pretty obvious issue. I said I'm concerned this issue could rear its head again in future and they said the clutch parts are warrantied for a year - we'll see how it holds up. I'll update the thread if it starts to act up again.

It would definitely continue to rise before tailing off. Heating such a large volume of air in the car takes a lot of power, my ID.4 often uses 5kW at the start before dropping to about 1.5kW for heat on very cold days. Pre-heating the cabin with the car plugged in (and charger live if using a schedule / Octopus IO or similar) means all that extra power is drawn from the mains, making your GOM range much higher.... Short journeys that have to re-heat the cabin are real power consumers.

A fair point - but if you think about it, wiring connected to any door flexes every time it is opened, regardless of mirror position.

He sent me invoices for haldex, gearbox and engine service. I'll have a look at the legs and engine bay, I'm somewhat familiar with these small VW tsi engines. If I can get it for £5.5k or even £6k I'm happy. In all fairness he's got few more cars cat s yetis 1.2 for sale so he is doing something with these, private or trader. In all fairness what is putting me off is the sunroof. I read and viewed a lot of the videos and I reckon if it's not soaked inside I could probably save it, if it is, I don't have the energy to remove the interior. Thing is, I want the AWD petrol versions and I can either have the 1.8 which again, the bargepole argument, or the newer 1.4 which comes with sunroof only. I could probably afford a clean one next year with higher miles for £13k or gamble on this one for less than half the price. Wish me luck, I'm seeing it today at 10am

Eager beavers have produced these links following the edit. @MartiniB let you QA and publish them proper. Will check out the all Europe and the Europe 1 map later. Europa 1. https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU1_2310_V20.7z Europa 2 https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU2_2310_V20.7z Europa 3 https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU3_2310_V20.7z Europa 4 https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL1_2310_V20.7z Europa 5 https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL2_2310_V20.7z Europa 6 https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL3_2310_V20.7z Europa 7 https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL4_2310_V20.7z

When you have seen the remains (or lack of them) of someone who bought a state of the art electric car and paid for it with their life it does tend to focus the mind. Yes I have a belt cutter/window breaker, but I've never tried one out so I have no real idea how they work, which probably makes them useless in a crisis. Using this method could also make for a very expensive shopping trip. I am impressed by you guy (who from your confidence in them) have tried them out, and given their partners/children the same chance, so that this design issue isn't a safety concern. Did you test it once or do you do an evacuation drill every year, as one has to by law with a building where you only have to walk through an unlocked door. What does your insurance company make of this? Can I come round and test one out on your rig? I think this is a serious problem. I value my family being alive more than I fear someone stealing my car, and I know that I wouldn't want to have to have them identified them from dental records.

Maybe these sensors should be fitted with mini windscreen wipers to make them dependable in all weathers - for autonomous cars at least!!!!!!!!

Are people missing that the price is £7,000. ? That is not over priced if the repairs are done properly. The White Yeti might be better than some of the Cars that have had Zinc Inclusion issues and had dodgy refinishing with filler and a spray over. It is certainly worth having it inspected and if not at a MOT then with a Mechanic or a person that knows cars / 4x4,s. The body is one things, and that the airbags are installed, and the engine & Haldex is all well.

..I have a bargepole you can borrow??

Well the first, most obvious reason is that it is far too expensive for a Cat S. Secondly, it's got a sunroof and they leak. Yes, and I believe in unicorns! If he does that he's a TRADER.

That's the bit James can tell you about as he's previously offered, use of paperclip and bobbypin IIRC. .

I am going to have a go myself, part is £106 from local Skoda dealer. Is there a trick to getting the wires out?

@Martinsg I was just about to post the following before beaten to it, see also second quote if you've not already.

If you have the 3 button key fob, pressing the middle button unlocks trunk/boot without unfolding the mirrors.

Thank you for that. More information for my next complaint email ! Skoda have really messed up! Why do they not say something? Do they hope the problem will go away if they ignore it?

That is OK, there are 7 gears and 1st is really only pulling away, or coming to a stop. 6 speed DSG,s had / have different ratios, and not Management for the WLTP & RDE2. Engineered for a tests / certification, not drivers enjoyment..

The battle rages on.. I wasn't confident in the 'flattened' seal of the cabin air filter tray, i so removed it again and used suitably sized bitumen tape to re-seal it: A few days later a large box from Auto doc arrived. It contains a whole timing belt kit from INA, as well as cam cover gasket service items. I wasted no time and started with the top. Cam cover off, all cleaned, replaced the chain tensioner sliders, removed the gauze filter and re-assembled it using new gaskets of course: The long life oil service intervals really aren't doing this engine any good...: Cam cover was leaking quite bad causing misfires: Next it was time for the timing belt itself. I knew I'd have to drain all the coolant out of the engine, so i bought a set of metal coolant pipes: They were quite cheap and needed cleaning up with a dremel and a burr bit. I also lapped the coolant flange to make sure it really sealed well: I then fitted all the pipes, they went in without any trouble: Next was the timing belt, I followed instructions from Elsa step by step. The hardest bit for me by far was removing the engine mount. It was an absolute pain of a job. The timing belt itself was dated 2009, and the hydraulic tensioner was held on with just one finger tight bolt... New belt, tensioner, guide pulley and water pump in: I also replaced the lower crank seal, a 35mm socket was perfect to hammer it in: I also used new shiny new bolts on the bottom pulley: As you can see above the control arms have seen a better day and will need doing too, for now they are ok - they don't knock or have any play. Aux belt tensioner was replaced too: I also checked the wear on alternator regulator brushes and given that the car has covered 109k id say they are 50% gone. Keep in mind this car has an automatic gearbox and heated seats..: New vs old water pumps:

@Berisford Not all Main / Franchised dealerships that have Skoda / SEAT and workshops are the same as far as Service Desk Staff, Service or Workshop managers. There are actually places where a Master Technician might come explain things to a customer. But then that requires there to be a Master Technician.

Both me and Mrs Gaz have locked each other in our cars too. Not intentionally at all, we're just used to locking our cars as we walk away from them. Mrs Gaz has left me in her car, asked me if I want her to leave her key in the ignition, to which I reply yes, she then takes the key and walks off with it. It's just habitual. I'm wise to it now and if I'm staying in her car I open the door and leave it ajar. Gaz

Apologies DragonFire, it looks like all the other posters are missing the point. Virtually everyone who drives mainly alone develops the habit of locking the car when they walk away from it without a backward glance. The fact that someone might be still in the car never crosses their mind. As such they are NOT going to disable the deadlock - if they realised someone was in the car they wouldn't have locked it in the first place. Personally I have two window breaking hammers in the car. These are primarily for my safety if the electronics fail and decide to try and keep me in the car, though I admit it would be a bit extreme to break the window if it just got a bit warm. The best solution for Skoda would be to have seat and / or internal motion sensors rigged to disable the deadlock if there was someone in the car at the instance of it being locked, though pet owners and parents with toddlers might want a different solution.

@D.FYLAKTOS thank you. I had previously been doing that but I misunderstood its use and thought it looked a bit formal and unfriendly. I initially just wanted to post under my name but the site would not let me, I do not know why as I can not see that my first and second name appear to be live here. I think nick names (or whatever else they are called) can give rise to a a level of anonymity that can promote a more excessive behaviour of posting. I added a 'signature' to my posts with my name in but I realise not everyone will see this depending on their settings or devices. Cheers, Nigel.