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I used VCDS to do the battery coding, or the BMS (battery management system) coding to be more technically correct as the process does nothing to the battery. The process is setting new values in the BMS. Those values being Battery Type e.g. EFB, AGM (old name was Fleece), Battery Ah, Battery Manufacturer (don't think this even matters), Battery serial number (even if none of the former changes then change this to reset the charging profile, the value itself doesn't matter, it is just a change that matters) OBD11 is completely capable of editing those data values. It is simply a matter of selecting from choices and typing values in boxes. Search on Google for Battery coding using OBD11, you'll find find YouTube videos and other guides. You'll see it is quite simple. I read earlier about keeping a 12v power feed on the vehicle while swapping the battery. It's not necessarily, all you'll lose is the trip milage and the clock time. The fault light will auto clear on a round the block drive with some left and right turns. As a final comment look at Carista as well, as an alternative to OBD11. As said earlier I use VCDS and don't have personal experience of either of the others, but I have read that Carista is simpler to use

Pressing the button or not shouldn't make any difference, if it doesn't engage on a pawl it drops to the next. This is the whole principle behind the ratchet mechanism. In this case it appears to have skipped over all of them so I would be having a very close look at the handbrake mechanism before I trusted it again.

🐙 GO night rate stays at 8.5 p per kwh, no price rise, horray !!! Day rate up a bit but I use/download most of my lecky during the night, two EV charging and portable solar generator batteries, so great news. Happy days, or rather happy Nights.

..nope....I watched them do it. In fact the girl from reception came out and fitted it on the forecourt while I waited.....I actually queried it at the time and was advised it was not necessary. It was a completely different battery, as they advised the one I had (original battery), was a known "problem" type. Since I had the car, up to changing the battery, the SS hardly ever worked unless I had driven a long distance, (typically 50+miles) before it started to work, and when I checked it, the voltage was always low. After the new battery was fitted the SS worked pretty much all the time.

Interesting financial model for TESLA Public Supercharge EV chargers. Stopped at the excellent, for charging, Frankley services Southbound and thought I would give these supposedly marvellous TESLA V4 superchargers a go. Was only in the Zoe so best I was going to get was 46 kw from these 250 kw beasties. Plugged in nice and easy, Zoe charge point is on the nose so drove in rather than reversing of course. Flashed the Am Ex card on the contactless payment pad, no likey, hmm, so used the mastercard which it liked and after a few moments it started to charge. Screen very small compared to other chargers. Was getting my 4 miles a minute of so being added which is the best I probably could expect, only needed a handful of kWh as I was in a few miles of negative range to get to Worcester some 20 miles a way and I only had about 16 miles. Probably would have made it but thought test them out. Obviously preferable to the Gridserve chargers at 79p per kWh, could have gone on the 11 kW I suppose which charges 49 p per kWh. TESLA charge 59 p per kWh except at peak 4-8 pm when it charges 74 p per kWh. Six minutes later had plenty of charge ie showing over 40 miles so pressed the disconnect on the Zoe and returned the charging cable to its holder. Little screen said £2.33 of charge taken and I set on my merry way. Check online bank account next day and it shows a £20 pending TESLA charge, no problem and expected £17.67 to be returned in a couple of days. A week later the £20 disappears but no £2.33 charge replaces it. Weird. Did Elon just give me 4 kWh of lecky for free or can I expect the £2.33 to pop in sometime in the next days and weeks ? Will rock along there in the Scenic soon and see if I can get the 130 kW charging speed it is supposed to be able to get, might get around 34 kWh ie £20 worth, or maybe not as do not want to pass Elon a penny more than necessary as he might only go and give it to the Reform party. Cannot imagine getting a couple litres of fuel from a petrol station and them saying ahh, not worth charging for ? Good chargers though.

Wait until you're reversing down a narrow country lane to reach a passing-place, and the car decides you're going to hit a leaf sticking out from the hedge & slams the brakes on with a screaming collision alert as well. Not a useful driver "aid" at all.

Was considering placing a piece of black gaffer tape over the sensor on the grille, but I believe that will throw up 'fault' lights' on the dashboard, and can muck up the expensive to fix calibration. Is it worth a try perhaps? not that fussed on the cruise control either tbh, but can just about tolerate that, as the distance monitoring system is adjusted to max on the rocker switch every time I use it. It really did take me by complete surprise earlier, as the distance between me and the car turning left at just under 30mph was completely acceptable without the need for even ME to apply any sort of braking, never mind 'emergency braking' and activating the abs. Without the seat belt, I'd have been launched! Wonder if this system has ever caused a rear end collision? Wouldn't surprise me.

The BBC News article explains the circumstances, it's worth reading. Here's my precis of that article: The whistleblower worked for Tata Technology in the UK which does much of the background work for both Vinfast and Jaguar but was assigned to the Vinfast suspension design. He saw the suspension design was too fragile and failed early in tests (15,000km not 150,000km) and advised Vinfast management to redesign the suspension components but Vinfast management ignored this and went into production with the (in his opinion) sub-standard suspension parts. Unhappy with being ignored he changed jobs to work directly for JLR and subsequently saw reports of the suspension failures on Vinfast vehicles in the US. He chose to become a whistleblower and posted anonymously on social media about the testing failures. Tata worked out that he was the only person with that knowledge and as JLR are also owned by Tata advised JLR of their concerns that he could also leak information about JLR vehicles. On the basis of this it is alleged that JLR sacked him.

There is no need to maintain power during battery replacement. Infotainment settings will be retained. It is important that the new battery is properly adapted (coded) into the vehicles BCM. Any random faults generated on restoration of power will automatically clear after a short drive.

The problems that Jaguar and Vinfast vehicles are under investigation for are completely different, Jaguar EVs have ongoing problems with the EV batteries possibly causing fires but Vinfast have problems with suspension component failures which it is thought have caused crashes resulting in injuries and even deaths.

You can't do anything wrong really. The gearbox is foolproof, once you get used to the twin pedal arrangement instead of the 3 in a manual, then it's all plain sailing really, the only thing to check up on is with the Matrix headlights if you have them is how they work on the stalk. The car is pretty much foolproof. I've had mine just under 2 years and I still occasionally press the wrong button or can't find something on the infotainment system. I think you're worrying way too much.

20 years old in March, and wow, what an absolute gem it's been. Just sayin'. Might have a party for it, and CAKE! It's just had a pressie anyway. Black Magic..... detail valet, and ceramic coating.🥰

West end garage edinburgh.

ExpressRust brand discs and DeepGroove Pads from factory, changed after ~2 years, the next set of discs lasted ~8 years and 2 sets of pads. 100k miles. No track days, but more than a few autobahn trips as well as at least 6 trips to/from Spain via Andorra/Pyrenees (nice views and fun drives across the mountains ), so yes, the brakes did get a workout over the past 12 years. Heater motor died on the very next drive after latest return from Catalonia, I guess the airco got workout there.

OP appears to be referring to Front Assist - not Manoeuvre Braking - AFAIK, Front Assist cannot be disabled.

I will let others comment on the suitability of that device - but, from what I have read regarding accessing the vehicles computers, be very wary of using any 'One Touch' device - they can result in inadvertent (and possibly extremely difficult to reverse) changes.

Not progress or regulation really with a Mk3 model, not legislated to have Auto braking. just set over sensitive maybe. ? Can you set it to be less sensitive rather than totally disabled? They "do not all do that". & it is not "a characteristic." Reports of happening with Brand new 2024 Vehicles, Kodiaq Mk2,s. Skoda never got the brief on Vorsprung Durch Technic!

What age of car and is it an Interim Service between the Required Variable / Flexible Services? What are you doing more than changing the Oil & Filters. If the car is in the Manufacturers Warranty period then Serviced with the Correct Fluids & Consumables and a record of this and done by a VAT Registered person / Establishment. NO PLACE DO THEY SAY THAT... Garage / Mechanic, not Plumber / Electrician. To the Manufacturers Guidelines, Recommendations, Advised, Specification, Schedule. *If only they were clear about that and Service Desk staff knew,* Read the Warranty T&C,s. SKODA_Warranty_Terms_July_2023 (1).pdf VWFS_11815379_SKODA_AUW_Booklet_0922E.pdf

I can recall inadvertent hand brake release being an issue quite some time ago - it was found that keeping the release button depressed while pulling up the lever was preventing the pawl from engaging fully at the bottom of the ratchet teeth.

Two completely opposite opinions!!!

A bit late but I've only recently encountered the same problem after buying my car, and this might help someone. I bought loads from Amazon (their listings don't always seem to have accurate diameters). I returned most of them but kept this one which fits perfectly. Holds a good amount of liquid and fits in the cup holder snugly.

My update was done just under two weeks ago and have driven 400 miles over the last couple of days with no errors. Fingers crossed.

OP stated the vehicle has stop/start.

When you take the old one out, observe the dirt and insects on the upper surface. This confirms the air comes from outside - up in the plenum chamber area - and passes down to the fan motor underneath. So airflow arrow points down - as one of the prior photos shows.

VW made this simple task more complicated than needed and then didn't even bother follow procedure at factory. By what other OBDEleven users have posted you just need to get to the page and carefully do the data entry (type the stuff in). The important points are to get the battery type correct EFB/AGM (EFB+) (VW call AGM "Fleece") then carefully put in the new Ah of the new battery, battery serial number is of no importance other than it being at least one digit different. Below is the one done for the battery change on my wife's car. Good luck. -

On a 2013 vehicle?

As often happens in news outlets of all types, there is a grain of truth in there somewhere. In this case, it is probably the whistleblower was involved in the engineering side of Vinfast parts but based in the UK at JLR which would account for him being fired. Maybe there is more on this still to come out?

I have red coolant in the car as i dried that area with white tissue paper i didnt see it being pink-ish i also smelled it, but couldnt detect anything that way.

Could be the heater plenum chamber drain hose is blocked?

Apparently, he did enough damage that JLR fired him, so its my guess that as both companies are owned by Tata that they use common parts and in particular the parts that are failing on Vinfast vehicles and are currently under investigation in the USA.

..when I replaced my battery (SS), the dealer just disconected the old one, and put a new one in.....did not need "re-coding", and it worked just fine....

When I swapped my battery out I connected a spare via jump leads before I disconnected the old one! Can't remember off the top of my head which battery I bought but it was 70 Ahr I believe for stop start

I agree, there's nothing to be scared of with an auto box of any kind, DSG or not. So long as common sense is applied you can't really do anything wrong that will break it (other than moving the shifter to another setting while on the move!). It always makes sense to me to double check the car has applied the ebrake for you when when parked in P, on a hill particularly. BTW, in case you haven't RTFM in detail yet, it's worth doing so, these car are very sophisticated and it will answer many questions that might be in your mind.

Hello John, gotta new motor.

Hi Tdawber. Would you be so kind to send me version 8755? My email is [email protected] Current version is: MEN2_EU_SKGPX P9160L Version: 8742 Thanks, really appreciated.

PWMed single electric fan on this one, not sure how easy it is to shed. I did pick up some gloop for the corners of the gasket, ta. I think the compressor and PAS are all on the same aux belt? Think the belt is first target though, maybe this weekend, or next week. Nothing much else is going on, right? 😄

This Skoda article states that P is model year 2023 and that they skip Q, from which I deduce that R represents model year 2024. What is not entirely clear is whether FL models would be model year 2025 and have an "S" - perhaps someone with an FL can chip in?

The 10th letter is indeed "R". It was manufactured and delivered in January 2024. Your VIN ending in "2023" is just a coincidence.

Seems like a normal cold start tbh. If you feel it is harder, check battery.

As it's tied in with the electrics, I'd get the battery & alternator checked.

Like someone who wants their front fogs to be LED rather than any other type of light source isn't going to want them on all the time to show everyone...

thanks, could you send it to [email protected]. Thank you!

Hi, writing this out since nobody replied to my previous posts with any information that would help me and will also possibly clarify some things to others. I went to get my car battery replaced by a mechanic that was recommended to me, supposedly he had equipment necessary to code a new battery for a Škoda Octavia Mk IV. When I met him I told him my concerns and he guaranteed me that he is able to do it. He simply disconnected the old battery and reconnected the new one, without any power supply keeping the car modules powered. He also needed to take out part of the air filter intake assembly for putting in a new battery, then he "coded" the new battery on some red tablet with a proper looking OBD cable. The tablet put out some beeps that would indicate that the coding was not a success but I didn't say anything since I didn't want to be a smart ass. When the car was turned on there were of course 20 warnings but after driving for like 50 meters they all disappeared. When I came home I connected my VCDS only to find out that nothing was coded. I did not want to go back to that mechanic since he obviously didn't know what he is doing. I tried buying a SFD token service (one more shady looking than VAG logins) but it did not work, got scamed for 10€ but whatever. My friend came over later today and he has a CARISTA evo module with a subscription. At first we couldn't change the battery coding, but when he read and deleted all the diagnostic error codes, he was able to change it, and I was able to verify it with my VCDS clone from aliexpress. I am pretty sure a OBD11 would also work for this - random tip, on the OBD11 website, register, put OBD11 with the VAG subscription in the cart, and don't buy it. Wait for an email from them and they will give you a 10% discount. I am now very happy and satisfied. It is very noticable that the engine starts up quicker (like 1/2 second sooner), and with the VCDS I also looked at the analysis of starting behavior, and the starter draws a much higher current, while also creating a smaller voltage drop on the battery. The internal resistance as shown by VCDS is also much lower. Will keep you updated how long the AGM battery will last me. Cost-wise, the 72 Ah AGM battery was 160€ while I could get an EFB battery of similar capacity for 100€. Dealer's garage would charge me around 300€ without them being able to tell me if they will put a cheapo EFB or an AGM battery.