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@J.R. you were right, there is a TDC alignment guide at the bottom end. Didn't spot it when disassembling, and struggled to take a clear pic once it was back on, but there's a notch on the rear edge of the aux pulley and a line on the lower toothed belt cover. Might be easier to see with torch and mirror than to take a photo, to be honest. Minimal progress today, no energy. Refilled coolant, eased condenser forward a bit to clean out quite a bit of crud from between it and the radiator. Refitted lower belt covers and popped the pulley back on loosely. Got some new boost hose seals in the post today, ordered @5.30pm Monday from deutscheparts on ebay, good effort by them.

I think much work needs to be done to the system before they can say that electric is the future.

Fitted Reverse camera from ali express, no programming required, £40, https://a.aliexpress.com/_EuR6gcY

Whatever you do, do not run summers on the rear and anything more winter/all season targeted on the front. It would likely be easy to lose the rear end in snow/ice.

I have thats why I asked there was nothing relevant

Hi all, Hope Christmas has gone along swimmingly for all! I've not had any updates for ages so apologies for this and the thread revival, but it's mainly because nothing dramatic has really happened. Over the year, the car has shown two low oil level lights, so both occasions popped in a little over half a litre a time, so it's probably roughly using a litre every 4-5000 miles, which I think the VW group have covered themselves enough with them saying a litre every 1000 is considered acceptable? The tyre pressure warning light was also coming on, in regards the front left. Looks like something happened so its been slowly leaking air, necessitating a pump up every 2 weeks, it looked like about 10 psi a week. Took it to a tyre place who couldn't find anything untoward, so just removed the tyre, resealed and reinstalled, which came to £30. I also spent £40 on a replacement rear ashtray, primarily so I could replace the socket with some USB ones: So first mission was to remove the existing socket. To be honest, I still don't 100% remember how I did it: But essentially, the silver metal barrel bit can be separated from the black plastic rear part, and once done, some twisting and swearing and the thing can be removed: I think for anyone wanting to attempt this: There are these black plastic tabs which keep the metal barrel in place, so I think attacking those is probably the way to go. The replacement sockets are some AliExpress generic kind: Which was £8.27 shipped, which doesn't immediately go in: As the original socket is keyed, with the bottom right having a slight notch. There's probably fancier ways to sort this out, but I ended just having at it with a sharp craft knife: Few careful slices until the socket goes in. The replacement socket has a threaded plastic nut or ring to keep in place, however, the ashtray doesn't allow the ring to actually rotate, so the socket has to. This actually meant a few attempts before I got it to a position where it was tightened up and aligned: This took way too much time than I'd like, about 4 goes with the constant winding in and out. I took the original wiring socket and then poked out the grey wire: My guess is that wire was for illumination or something...? Then it was a case of cutting off the remaining wires from the socket and crimping on replacement spades for the new socket. I went with typical car wiring convention of the positive being red, leaving brown as the negative (which I double checked given British house wiring has brown as live). Then it was a case of just swapping out the old ashtray with the new one: I will assume previous posts must have pics of the process given the rear console has been disassembled before. It looks like the positive is permanently on, as the socket appears to illuminate even after the car is off, unless it turns off after a period of time and I haven't waited long enough. Regardless the replacement socket has its own on/off switch so it shouldn't be an issue. No other dramas to report really, although there's been signs of carelessness: A new rear bumper scrape, which I suppose is less annoying that if it was the fairly recently resprayed wings I guess. It's been up and down the country, so could have happened anywhere, I am assuming it'll be the wife or in laws somewhere. Assuming all's well over the new year, it'll be the beginnings of some slightly bigger modifications. The front left tyre still needs observing, but I reckon ultimately I'll be swapping to 17" wheels. I think that could well be the first major thing, but money's a bit tight for the next few months, so we'll have to wait and see! Maintenance: £2370.22 (+£30.00) Upgrades: £1643.52 (+£48.27) Miscellaneous: £820.07

Sorry my reply wasn't meant in that way or a way to upset you. Yeap I should have put if you've not already done so but you must understand the only information I know of you and your circumstances is the tiny amount in your posts and based on your previous posts it might be that you are new to cars or car ownership. There is too a lot of male macho b*ll*cks around about not reading instructions (particularly with some tradesmen in my long experience). Apologies to you, as you put we are all only human and make mistakes, and I have read Owner's Manuals and missed some information, the newer manuals particularly are not always the easiest to access the information you want (and contain errors and omissions), I very often forget what I have read. I do not think questions are silly, often it can be silly not to ask the question. Even with the same manufacturer or even same model range the set up of the car's buttons and switches can vary so much and there is so much on modern cars that getting in to drive a different car can take a while to sort and get used to, even simple things like having the indicator and wiper stalks the opposite way round on the steering column can be 'fun'.

In my experience, tiptronic gearboxes are very reliable. Google Automatic Transmission Specialists in your area. I would never consider replacing a transmission for a sensor fault, but I would consider replacing your mechanic.

To close out this thread the sensor seems to have cured the problem so far. The replacement sensor was from a well known German discount parts supplier (in Ireland) and cost euro 160 delivered.

I used VCDS and you have values Battery Type (AGM), Ah (70), Serial Number (11111111) and Manufacturer (Varta). The trick is just change serial number even if the rest remain the same. Ah often changes a little too. But as you see nothing to do with a BEM code anyway.

@tosois Autohold enabled? When you are parking I assume you are pressing the brake pedal. Are you pressing hard enough that Autohold actuates? Then as you move that goes off, as happens when you go to P and the e-brake activated target than Autohold.

20 years old in March, and wow, what an absolute gem it's been. Just sayin'. Might have a party for it, and CAKE! It's just had a pressie anyway. Black Magic..... detail valet, and ceramic coating.🥰

There will have to be the point and it is not far off when the UK Government will have to be looking at TESLA, TESLA chargers, TESLA in the UK and ask can it be allowed a monopoly on EV Charging. Maybe it will not be like the Markets & Competitions Authority and how it treats Filling Stations and who owns or has control of, them but if Energy Security is an issue then Public EV Charging will have to be an issue and can anyone be allowed to have even 1/4 of the charging business or even 1/3rd? Data Centers for Internet / AI businesses needing so much electricity are building their own Nuclear Plants / Small Nuclear Modular, so why are the likes of TESLA not going to be required to be generating electricity. Is the market fair as far as their buying price of energy?

You can not have 'Cheap AC Charging points' where anyone and everyone just leaves an EV parked and plugged in for as long as they like, and then also for those just stopping a while. Well the whole of the UK can not, but it looks like London will get, even though supposedly more than half of everyone with a home has off street parking. I do wish some lazy barstewards would bother using their cable and actually use the AC Ports and not park for hours using tethered AC or DC and then stay once fully charged, Locked in, not charging, not getting Fined for Overstaying.

The video presenter talks about his personal usage, charging once a week. But as said in the video, unless doing over 100 miles a day, charging every day is really not needed. Key is having somewhere to charge. Policy makers need to concentrate on getting cheap AC charge points everywhere. Once that's in place, expensive rapid charging hubs outside of trunk road network are not really needed.

What a plastering about for the 'about 10*oC, colder earlier' in the video posted earlier. There really is reasons that people can not be bothered with all the car about EV,s, cold weather etc. Loads of guff about pre-conditioning etc. ........ freezing is sort of cold weather, not 10*oc. 'Once a week to 100%' Is that it, every 7 days regardless of usage, miles covered, how often charged at what ever speeds?

At 95% the LFP is apparently down to 0.5 C ie half the kws of the kwh figure of the battery. Think I would unplug at 95% and go. My 60/63/65 kwh Scenic is still at about 0.65 C at 95 to 98 % SoC, if prewarmed, so i might go to 98% before unplugging. This is where EVs are so different to ICE i reckon as you can be so precise rather than i will stick in half, three quarters or a full tank, though nice if we could do that in a minute or two rather than half an hour or so. I get bored easily so about ten minutes is about my limit and I would rather drive slower back on the road than twiddle my thumbs unless there is place to pick up a coffee and a sticky and have a Jimmy. Still so much to learn, it is not a way of life, yet, for those who are not happy to absorb the complexities.

@Dines Am i missing something? Over the decades when i required wider bars i fitted exactly that and cut down to what i required so as not to have too much over the cars width.

Hello. My name is Andrey, I am from the Republic of Moldova. I have been the owner of Skoda Karoq Facelift 2.0 tdi - 116 hp for 2 years now, everything was fine until one moment. At 95,000, problems appeared, vibration appeared in the cabin, the oil level in the engine increased. Registration occurs 10 times a day (as far as I understand, it tries to do this and cannot). Today, an error popped up again that it is necessary to drain the oil from the engine. The dealer does not know what the problem is, there is not a single error and according to the parameters, everything works fine. Maybe someone has encountered this problem?! Leave a review

@andry You have posted previously in English. Please stick to using English.

I downloaded the latest ECE2025 as well and have been waiting for it to update, but my car is already at v24.8, so I guess I wasted my time....🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

I think it was even earlier and no, there is no update for Superb Mk2 navigation units.

Just thought I'd post the brief summary of details for those who don't know, and those of us who haven't time to download software to analyse the data.

@RodDuggan standard behavior 😞 title is half year forward than release, but contents is half year outdated

The originals were okish but not so sporty, which became more and more obvious lowering the car and adding side skirts. So found these used Audi Sline wheels and it seems they suit quite well. No need for spacers also...

You say the lamb (bulb) is OK, did you test it with power and also the replacement? I ask because the Maxidot warnings come from the body/comfort control module, they monitor the volt drop on each lighting output, if there is none then its either an open circuit bulb or an open circuit to the bulb or in its earth return path. I believe (and you could confirm this) that the fuse feeds both dipped headlights so if one is working then it will not be a fuse fault or a circuit fault between the use and the BCM.

Welcome. Can I suggest a Google of Briskoda Fabia MK3 estate roof bars. Some of those threads that show must be a help.

@Nta16 All good Well, I have had my own car (from brand new) for almost 10 years. But it was a Ford KA 2015. There is not much "car" in such a tiny thing compared to the new cars today. A lot has happened since then. I feel like I have to learn to drive all over again and feel like a grandma when driving🫣 The Fabia feels and sounds so different! Takes some time to get use to and feel confident again. Believe me, had I not looked in the manuals I would have had tons of questions 🥴

This ^^^^ Whichever diesel engine you have, it'll be a belt driving the camshaft and all your valves. If the belt has jumped, that's bad. Once it's jumped (teeth on the cam belt) far enough, you'll start to encounter contact (interference) between the piston and valves. This can often end up being catastrophic - as in engine rebuild or new engine time. I wouldn't be running the engine without knowing exactly what the problem is. Not safe and far too risky in my opinion. Gaz

That depends on how accurate the error code reading is and whether Gaz's post about the engine type and belt, which I've not read either of, is relevant, if so then possibly very unwise to use the engine. As far as I can see you are only reporting that error code reading and just the preheater warning light coming back on the car might be driveable but I'm not a mechanic or expert in anything, it's not my car and I don't drive it, I don't know the history of the car and obvious can't see, hear, touch, smell it in the metal. If you want to be safe it might be best to wait for your mate and get a full scan tool report and hopefully diagnosis (after the other stuff, as much as possible, I've put has been checked if it was me). Full and proper timely servicing, maintenance and repairs of the whole car is important and particularly a diesel engine (to borrow and alter an old computer term, SISO, to cut down on the **** going in and coming out) but even then things wear, go faulty, break or get broken.

Well done. Let us know how you get on. Also if you've not already looked there might be info on this in the Superb forum, sometimes it's easier to do a Google search which will often bring you back to the relevant Briskoda Superb forums, sometimes as Gaz put the engine type can be relevant other times the issue is of a general nature. Good luck.

I would replace speed sensor. Not sure where on an autobox but the manual box is on top toeards the rear of car between drive shafts. There not expensive. Around £15-00 for my mk1 1.2 fabia.

There are a lot of mature or disabled drivers out there that are forced to drive around in huge cars they are not fully comfortable in driving due to accessability requirements, wheelchairs, scooters etc.. do you not think this might of been the use case for designing these systems?

Think @MartiniB labelled it correctly in the mib2 series updates so there isn't a problem. You get freeze dates and production dates. The actual date you see on the screen and is in the files, we got told how to read them (I asked for a bright spark) tallies with the connected services date. 24.6 in this case. You can't better that offline currently. So it's all sorted now we have all the reference dates. The bright spark method allows those into this type of thing to read the VW and Seat files so we know what is what (YY.MM). The files are interchangeable but you only want to update with something newer, hence why we needed the bright spark. MartiniB can now table that as well with assurance. Bright spark bit>> Technical Note - Derivation of the YY.DD as shown on the Infotainment Screen I have now been told how to read that YY.DD date off the files after putting out my request for some time for a bright spark into these Mib3 files. It's been delivered. If you don't want to load up the file you can look up what year the and periods the files relate to. It's important with MIB3 files you don't alter the contents because you can't they are signed and they will refuse to load. So no tampering with the files like mib2 standard maps. Anyhow, this is how you do it thanks to C34 on the Briskoda site... only two posts popped up to tell me. You need to install DB Browser for SQLite. This has an extension in it to read the NDS Associate files, the normal SQL Lite brower that is popular won't. Install the MSI of DB Browser for SQLite in the link above. We now use C34's text... In this example on the file Update OI_P119_EU_202425_Offline_Update.zip contains data from 23.12 (YY.MM). You can check this for example in the MIB31_EU.ROOT/3D/PRODUCT.NDS file. This is a SQLite database, you can find this information in the updateRegionTable table. You open the table up and have a look. Does help if you have database experience .

This would be wonderful to see how you would do it. A video tutorial would be great.

Yes, probably for the reason you mention, it was thought that there was no problem with the fuel pump. Yes, auto-hold is engaged, Ootohere. But they confirmed that the noise wasn't coming from the wheels or the brakes.

AC tethered out of order for at least 3 days and I thought I would need to go to AC posts as CCS cutting out when I used ElectroVerse. After 3 attempts used the CPS card and started charging and had stayed on. Just going for a walk and will keep an eye on it to see light stays blue till charged. I need 100 miles of range.

I don't think the Gridserve chargers were free for credit card users on Xmas day, maybe only for App Users. So good Gridserve accepted Amex but negative for only allowing free charge to App users. Charging speed was a third to a half what I expected to. Very close to service station entrance was a plus whilst TESLA chargers were right down the far end of the car park ie about 300m away. Still don't know what charge I would get from the V4 TESLA chargers in tge Scenic but suspect it would be good ie 100 kws plus. No £20 held for a week on Gridserve like TESLA. Octoverse in combo with Ionity winning the experience comparison at the moment. Yet to spend over a £5 on the 5 to 7 kw chargers I have had, just quick 7 minute and less adds and then charge at home for 130 miles added during Octopus Go cheap tariff time. So pleased the 8.5p per kwh extends in to 2025.

A few from today. Stayed at a local stately pile over xmas. Back to the lodge tomorrow morning. Also a snap of an old sign which caught my eye a little while ago.

I charged up ~45 kWh of energy, 30min yesterday. Forgot to pre-heat the battery on the way. The charging forecourt layout was brilliant, just what we need at all services. But the service building were closed and there wasn't an easily walkable path out of the Gridserve grounds, only car access. So left after 30min. The cable were really heavy and the phone app was a faff, felt like gone back to driving Leaf. I think I'll stick to Tesla superchargers for the foreseeable future. There's at least 4 superchargers at every Gridserve location forecourt anyway, so can easily stay in my walled garden. Was great seeing all types of EV coming and going though, good variety.

I agree, to me it sounds like a pump. Based purely on Youtube videos, it reminds me of a faulty fuel tank sender pump however that'd obviously be louder near the fuel tank at the rear.

Farina Fettler'/s House ruins, South Australia.

Tnx,and Marry Christmas to you to😇😇🙏🙏

I think if I'd thought of looking specifically for such a leak, I would've been able to see it via camera phone pics. I hadn't noticed any obvious wetness or staining below the pump, although some was evident looking from above once the old pump was out of the way. Finished for the day with new kit all on, and torqued up, with the 2 rotations of crank completed happily, both locking tools reinsertable afterwards. First attempt at getting new belt on went wrong somehow; luckily it was obviously wrong cos the three screws in the cam pulley were right at one end of their slots, and the tensioner had seemed too easy to set. Thanks for the interest and support everyone. Won't get back to it until Friday now, to put enough back on to try running it, then everything else, if it works.

Thanks both. I'd try to replace both tyres on the same axle and it's absolutely required in this instance.

Hi There are several threads on dash cams and in one of them somewhere, someone was complaining at the cost of Nextbase memory cards for their dash cams. They are ludicrously expensive. As a video cameraman and editor, I have used a lot of memory cards and sometimes manufacturers do use custom memory cards. RED were infamous for this. I have done some tests and can confirm that on a Nextbase 322gw these cards work. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09X7BK27V at £12 for a 128GB card it is a no-brainer. I recommend using the largest card you can fit (128GB in a 322gw) because flash memory has a finite number of write/erase/re-write cycles. So in a dash-cam the larger the card, the fewer of these cycles there will be. If you don't record dual files (low and high-res) just the high-res the card will last even longer. The spec for a dash cam memory card should be U3, V30 and A2. The A2 is a new measure, but it is for continuous write as used in video cameras where the stream has to find random memory blocks to write to on the fly to fill up space The Camera will determine which file to overwrite when the card is full. See (its accurate, by my god her voice is annoying!) https://www.kingston.com/unitedkingdom/en/blog/personal-storage/microsd-sd-memory-card-guide Incidentally, Kingstone are a very good make (I used them in professional video cameras) and are less expensive than the Sandisk on Amazon. I only used Amazon as I wanted next day delivery and was ordering other things or I would have gone with Kingston.

I am almost done with the materials. Here the most important. Left radar 2Q0907685H Right radar 2Q0907686H (master) Bracket on the left 5E6907456A Bracket on the right 5E6907457A Connectors for radars [2pcs] 1J0973714 and pins 000979038 Plastic nuts for brackets N91018901 [4pcs] I desided to do the 100% retrofit, so i bought mirror caps and the LED warning lights: Mirror caps Black Mirror Cover Kit with Indicator Holes 5E30722530C F9R LED warning lights for side mirrors Left 5E6949145 LED warning lights for side mirrors Right 5E6949146 I searched a lot to find the name (code) for the LED warning light connector. Finally i found it: Connectors for LED warning lights MX19002S51 [2pcs] And a pair of connectors, for the wiring inside the front doors: Connectors for door wiring to mirror: 1J0973119 [2pcs] & 1J0973332 [2pcs] Next step: The wiring (i desided to do it myself).

Indeed! Already had a few comments at the small number of meets I've been to with it - not many people heard of them before in the UK! As far as I can work out it's been on the road continuously since it was registered in 1962 - got copies of all the old inspection paperwork and passed every 2 years until it was imported to the UK. I think I basically just want to keep it going, and get some use out of it - my only other car is an SLK so this works great for moving stuff 😛 It's all a bit tatty, outside and in, but functional, so I'll just keep it around as a rolling restoration I reckon