Leaderboard

A few from this evenings walk.....

I was driving in Naples, hit a sharp curb stone and took a chunk out of the sidewall, which I didn't notice until Siracusa. Since the tyre had not lost any pressure, I rode it until I got to Palermo. I found a Pirelli dealer (I had Pirelli's on the car) and asked to buy a used tyre - anything to get me home. The owner's daughter came to help with the language barrier. She spoke to the mechanic, who had a look at the tyre. "I can fix that", he said. Two hours later, my tyre had been vulcanised (almost the same word in Italian) and I was on me way. No charge. I forced the guy to take five euros. Imagine that happening in a UK garage.

Hi all, not too sure how to use this forum at all but I’ll give it a go… I’m Callum I brought the Fab in this thread of rich summer this year. Abit about my self I’m 20 years old and Nothing but a petrol head. I have a 2011 Clio rs200 in liquid yellow in which I did daily up until I brought the Fabia, which is now my weekend track toy and under going work for it to go to the Nurburing for the second time next year. Since buying the fab I have done nothing but enjoy the car, took care of it and did minor bits like the cambelt/ water pump, brake light sensor and even New old stock genuine MK1 Fabia rubber matts (which don’t fit too well but hey-ho) the car flew past its MOT with only 1 advisory which is the brakes (will be taken care off shortly) . Thanks to you guys for taking care of it and keeping it pristine.

Hi, Fortunately, I do have a spare wheel. However, I faced a minor puncture 2 years ago, with very slow pressure loss. As it was almost on the tyre edge, I knew Car repair centres would not accept a classic repair from the inside. Lost for lost, I bought a DIY repair kit for €10, which contained 5 worms and 2 tools to install them. Very easy to do and very efficient. I had driven over 10000 km with it without any pressure loss on my right front wheel, before I needed to replace both front tyres. If you do have a compressor, it's a good solution.

None of this is new, there is a copy of that guide that Arup produced already in this thread, which I do believe I put there. Arups is one of the many consulting engineering companies that I have worked with for around 40 years, mainly in the London area as well. Interesting to hear the consultant confirm precisely what I said about the fire blanket not being the ideal solution in the real world, along with the water tank for immersing the vehicle, also not always suitable or easily transportable to the scene of the fire. Also the PSS person also pointed out the fact that in the demonstrations of the fire blanket, the batteries were not on fire. It also endorses the points I've already raised about fires on car transport ships, CO2 flooding does not stop the fires, fire blankets are not suitable because there is no space to deploy it either, and water as was mentioned is not effective either.

If Jag i Paces or Taycans are deemed a fire this is not big news as most of us EV drivers/owners use mainstream EVs such as Nissan, Renault and TESLA and i not surprised that small volume sales companies have problems so the story is of minute relevance to us with mainstream EVs. Not heard of any statistically relevant number of mainstream EVs have self igniting issues.

UK Police Forces had to stop using BMW Diesels. & not a fire risk, but a fatality of an officer when there was an engine failure at high speed.. News articles said 'Old engine oil, engine failure', Engine failed, oil under wheels etc. So not fires, but there are fire risks but just to do with the ERG issue, 'Thermal incidents'.

My brothers 1.8I Zafira was recalled twice for a fault with the heater blower resistor which had resulted in fires in uncorrected vehicles.

Ha! Neither am I! I'll just carry the worms, thank you.

If you've been driving it about since, I'd say you're ok as you are. You might have taken a bit of long term life off a few random parts, but it's not something I'd worry about, particularly if you're only planning on keeping it for a few years. The only thing I probably would do is keep the fuel level in the top half of the tank for a few thousand miles. There shouldn't be any real amount of diesel in there any more, but it can't hurt to dilute any that happens to be there as much as possible.

Hi, There's no proper fuel filter on TSI petrol engines. It's a kind of fine strainer integrated to the fuel pump, directly in the tank. It has no own P/N. It's sold with the fuel pump. Considering your sayings, I wouldn't worry too much. Just keep an eye on the revometer and listen to the engine, just to check it's steady at idle these next days (weeks?).

I carry one of the worm kits in both our cars. Had to use it a few years ago and that tyre did around 4k miles on my repair. I actually forgot about it till the tyre guy commented when changing the tyres. Not used a foam can but have heard stories of the tyre being a right off from the glue buildup. From my experience of one event I still have no issues recommending the worms.

The Ford hit another mini milestone some time and about 200 miles ago, SEAT got a fair bit to go to 11K still and the XFS will hit 100K on current tank (been trying to keep miles off it to delay that one tbh, but it's going to happen!).

A Christmas gift I will cherish 😀📸👍

https://www.insurewithporsche.co.uk/car-insurance/ Maybe he should contact them?

Great news. He can now get rid of the car if really nobody wants to insure it, or Porsche can pay part of the insurance for those owning or leasing. Provide a courtesy car as well. No idea why he thinks they will not insure him once he has contacted them, other insurers, he has not had his Insurance cancelled. IS THE CHANGES IN PERSONAL CIRCUMSTANCES MAYBE A QUESTION OVER ADDRESSES, OR EMPLOYMENT? He says he literally just renews his insurance with this MAJOR Insurance company which he can not name. Why not, tell no lies get in no trouble. OTHER PORSCHE TAYCAN OWNER ARE LIKELY TO BE IN THE SAME CIRCUMSTANCES. That insurance is valid until it expires. Other insurers look at risks. As long as you never had INSURANCE CANCELLED BECAUSE OF NOT GIVING TRUTHFUL DETAILS. 11 months ago.

I recall having to remove some fasteners to peel back the wing liner but not removing the bumper, that has to be done on the pre facelift model because the foglamps behind the bumper are part of the main headlight, on the facelift they are separate. When refitting the new headlight the fixing bolts for the lower wheel arch bracket can be re-oriented to make future removal easier, - no need to displace the wheel arch liner.

@Graham Butcher Who are these many people? Politicians, Civil Servants, Manufacturers & Engineers, or the general public? They have you and Geoff, Lee,a guy in Scotland & another couple in Australia and various others vlogging and publishing news papers to do the worrying. PS. One of those even drives one and parks it and charges it and does so near others vehicles or property, but then maybe he only heard about the news from Porsche and has not got his own letter.

@Graham ButcherIs it a case of not being able to recall or just never actually knowing the numbers. You are just one of many around the world with concerns. The shippers and the owners and insurers will know the actual numbers and the risks and charge accordingly, or just not transport EV,s new or used. Time will tell. EDIT. What is your point on the conclusions? we have a thread on the Car Carrier fires and the ships we know about. I thought you were making out more car carrier fires as there are more EV,s carried and the reason being EV,s.

http://www.gcaptain.com/a-brief-look-back-at-recent-car-carrier-fires

Were they all carrying EV,s and ICE Vehicles? What about those not carrying vehicles but batteries? How many actual Vehicle carrying Ships have been lost through fire in the last decades.

The second video that @Ootohere kindly shared, has a number of flaws, all of which I have, and many other interested parties pointed out as misinformation. Similarly, the first video also pointed out some of those flaws. It is also worthy of mention that we have been transporting ICE vehicles all over the globe via special ships for decades now, but it is really only in the last few years that we have a multitude of such fires onboard ships, with many ships being lost as a result of the fires. These ships were all carrying both EV and ICE vehicles, doesn't that seem at odds when we have all those decades relatively free of such events?

Let's hope that there are no deaths or life changing injuries from BEV,s or PHEV,s setting homes or properties on fire be that with residents or the emergency services. We are sure to hear when there are any such incidents in the UK or globally.

Get well first, all the best.

To use a fire blanket, as seen in videos, assumes that the fire brigade arrive quickly enough to be able to get close enough to the burning car safely, and that the car has plenty of space around it in order to deploy the blanket effectively. In the videos that I have seen the fire was started deliberately by the fireman so they were already there, and they also had the blanket ready and the car was totally exposed and well away from other car and structures, so not a real world example, is it?

No problem. It is a whole lot easier if you're able to open the door, I suspect. The manual I'm using is here. James

Progress this morning is that I now have the dowels removed, the window taped closed and the steel door liner removed. The dowels came out quite easily in the end using the above procedure with the threaded end of the bolt held in mole grips. Most of the door liner retaining rivets i could drill out, but the two below the speaker I had to grind off with the Dremel. It's very tempting to replace them with hex head self tappers when it comes to reassembling the door. What I haven't been able to do so far is to remove the wiring loom connector from the lock mechanism because I can't work out how to unclip it. I know there's a clip on one side, but I can't see it or feel it. At this point it doesn't look like there's much more that I can do other than destroy the existing lock to get the mechanism to release, so I'm off to order a replacement from that ebay. James

The Kia / Hyundai that had to be parked outside or the advice was to were not EV,s. VW Group should have paid more attention to Engine Covers after VOLVO had issues.

My insurance went down from 1.3 Renault/Samsung Arkana, using the tce engine, used in many Mercedes as well, with 140 hp in this car's case, to the 170 hp Scenic which also has an RRP about 10k higher. Same as Arkana ie parked on the drive informed to insurance company, the very nice LV people. Certainly no concern there about two EVs parked on the drive and maybe two being simultaneously charged on the drive. Non issue.

Very unlikely with a diesel for petrol misfueling.

Hi Just picked up a MY2025 L&K. So far I've noticed - Steering wheel has the word Skoda in the centre rather than the Skoda logo - Remote Park Assist is now available. Not clear which models get this but its there on L&K.

I've had the same issue years ago (already have my S2 since 2011). There were two possible causes: One is mentioned above (long press on the open key opens all windows). The other possible cause is "rain closing" which is supposed to automatically close the windows of a parked car when it starts raining. There could be some bug in that function which opens instead of closed the windows in some circumstances. I disabled both and never had the issue again. But also never bothered to find out which of the two was the primary cause.

@Graham Butcher Have you managed to find again that article or document on this ban on BEV,s in UK Government owned or controlled underground Car Parks in Westminster? Publicly owned properties used by the Government that will be i assume. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/499506-the-truth-about-electric-cars/page/137

On my side I just pull out the old diesel filter, drop the new one, screw up the filter cap to recommended torque (written on the filter housing cap: should be something like 5 +/-2 Nm if I remember well). The just primed the pump using the ignition: 1. Set contact ON 2. Wait for pressure to rise (just listen to the fuel pump), let's say for 10s. 3. Set contact OFF 4. Wait for pressure to fall down, let's say for 15s. 5. Repeat from #1 4 to 5 times. 6. Start the engine and rev it to ~2000 rpm for 30s 7. Let the engine at idle and check it has no hiccup. If unfortunately it does have hiccup, restart procedure form #1. It's my 5th TDI engine over last 20 years. I thing I've changed 10 to 12 fuel filter using this method. No problem to report. Additionally, I've just checked on the workshop manual. It does mention any fuel suction nor filter housing cleaning: remove filter, set the new one. That's it.

Hi, welcome. You might get quicker answers and info by looking in and/or asking in the Fabia Mk2 forum. - 'Skoda Fabia Mk2 (2007-2014)' forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/113-skoda-fabia-mk2-2007-2014/ HTH.

Another collection today with the same data except the Navigation database. So far all is working.

Have you started using the other keyfob, some settings are key specific. If not it’s easy enough to change the settings in the infotainment screen to what you had before, or any other preference.

Erwin Skoda.

Fog had lifted, but early evening mist now descending............

Ah, well, I decided I'd just get medieval on its donkey anyhow: slipped some washers of increasing diameters onto a 5mm bolt, screwed it in and pulled hard using the washers for leverage. The adjusting pins popped out. They're basically a hard plastic dowel with the ends chamfered on the outside. Next step is apparently to do the same to remove the straddling dowels using an 8mm bolt. Only an 8mm bolt isn't large enough and just pulls straight out again. How we laughed! It's getting too dark to see what I'm doing properly now and since my stash of old hardware doesn't appear to include such a thing as a bolt with a 9mm thread anyhow, tomorrow I shall try slipping a bolt with a 7.5mm-ish head down inside the dowels so it drops down behind the back edge, then try to pull them out with that. James

I used VCDS and you have values Battery Type (AGM), Ah (70), Serial Number (11111111) and Manufacturer (Varta). The trick is just change serial number even if the rest remain the same. Ah often changes a little too. But as you see nothing to do with a BEM code anyway.

Oh I didn't realise it was DCC. That's the reason the cost is so high. In theory the B6 is serviceable. It should also last longer. Maybe look at tuning the suspension first? As a check cycle through modes to see if the ride changes. If it does then they should have some life left. Then check all the bushes are good. Next I'd be looking to swap the rear roll bar. If that's not enough then you have the choice (or both) of new shocks or lowering springs. Both will help control the roll. But within that you have shock selection and lowering height.

not all cars live in lovely heated garages 😞 or even in a garage (because too big)

Hello Bikerzz I agree with Paws - comfortable is so subjective. Mrs Gaz has a 2015 Polo. I'm 6'4" too and find it very cramped to drive. Having had an Octavia and a Superb, for comfort, I'd say Superb all day long There have been some gems for sale on here this very year - if you're handy with a spanner ad paying out for a DSG repair: If you search on here there's a wide range of views on Octavia seats. Mine was a vRS (2015) which I found fine, but a number of people can't get on with them. You'll find far fewer adverse comments on Superb seats. Gaz

There is the option of charging through the 12 volt socket, with a suitable adaptor, if unable to open the hood for access to the battery.

Well, I've got a little further, and yet I haven't... Watching lots of videos online suggested that there's a plastic cam at the top inner side of the lock mechanism that prevents the door release lever from moving and opening the door, and that all I needed to do was to push that plastic cam up and out of the way. Once pushed far enough it appears that there's a spring that will hold it in position. Having carefully drilled a couple of holes in the door frame where they will be covered by the door card, and after quite some time poking about with screwdrivers, I have done just that. It makes naff-all difference. The door remains resolutely closed. I was hoping that working through a couple of extra holes in the door would mean I don't have to drill out all the rivets in the inner door skin nor faff about with the electric window. It's not immediately clear to me if it's possible to disconnect the wiring connector for the lock mechanism before removing the inner door skin either. I think I've reached the point where it has to come off though. I can't see any other way forward at this point that doesn't involve buying a replacement door and taking an angle grinder to the existing one😄 James

Hi Guys looking to change springs and shocks on my estate superb TDI . I hate this suspension and is really bouncy also every pot hole in road is like go over something big . Nasty hit like suspension don’t exist. Any recommendations what is you would recommend.

IMO the 4hr cheap slot will effectively disappear over the next 18 months, maybe sooner. Domestic prices will soon be 30+ pence/kwh starting April and will march continually upward at well above inflation if gov insist on Net zero policy. Free or cheap public charging will also disappear. Its about time the UK recognise the damage heavier cars do to infrastructure, the environment and peoples health. A weight based tax is already used in the Netherlands I believe

Attached in case anyone else needs them. Print dimensions courtesy of this page Vas-6430.pdf