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I get his point about the Audi being poor value. Its basically the same car as VW ID.4 or Skoda Enyaq but £20K more. I've had a couple Q4 E-trons as courtesy cars when my ID.4 was in the shop and I was not impressed by the interior. The seats were hard and materials felt cheap for an Audi. Driving wise its the same as the ID.4, so fine for most. Economy in the real world will be similar to ID.4/Enyaq, so better than he was making out. I'm surprised by the charge speed stated, as many MEB cars will do 175kW (even my 4 year old First Edition after various software updates) but he did not actually test charging. He only states the brochure speed which is the same as mine (135kW) but real world this is most likely wrong. Not a very good review but he's right about it not being great.

Tonight's sunset (& 🌛)..........

Today was my turn..collected my 85 edition Elroq this morning..posted a few images etc on my Reddit group if anyone wants to check it out at r/SkodaElroq Loving it...such a great smooth ride on way home. Still have to research a few things...need to dig out the digital manual...and keeps asking me to enter pin every time i start the car. That and the speed limiter...the speed limiter which i enabled does not hold the car to speed like in my previous car so maybe missing an extra setting somewhere. Seats are great.. super comfy ( loft )..all round visibility is excellent.. the large door mirrors are brilliant. Very happy with my initial few hours with the Elroq and love the colour moon white in the flesh...discovered a Skoda thing called Green Room in the Skoda app...where you get points for doing challenges etc which you can redeem for prizes. It is free to join.If anyone wants to use my referral code to join it is X4YAUWAH

Made a trip to RAF Lakenheath today as they were doing what's known as Quick Climb day, and it was the ideal day to test out my Christmas present from my sons, a lovely 70 to 300mm L series lens for my Canon 7D camera. Lovely clear blue skies, although it was a bit chilly in the shade. Here are some of the shots I took, a vast improvement over the old 70-300mm consume grade lens, call me impressed.

Hi. I use a large Dometic fridge and I cannot see any major difference. Please only consider long parking or night when the socket is powered only from the 12v battery not being recharged from the high voltage battery. Look at this as, say absolutely max 100W load which over 12h journey will take of your battery only 1.2kWh. This is obviously simplification but in principle tells you - no bother! Enjoy your trip.

Plenty of fish in the sea.

So right now i have normal halogen headlights which are nothing special. But i really like the vRs ones (il include pictures below if i find them) What would i need to do to make them function like a normal feature? I know you need a levelling sistem so the xenon lights face downwards if the car is facing upwards or something like that? What would the steps by steps be? What would i need to buy and install? Is there a video of some sort? And is it worth it? Thanks.

Yeah, I can see those prongs on the new badge, hoping to work my way around the badge to remove most of the adhesive. Cheers for the advice. 👍

Cheers, I went back on Kopacek and found the fitting instructions, which I managed to miss the first time around, Like you said I need both products, I also have autoglym tar remover already, which is decent stuff so was hoping to use that to get rid of the sticky backing. Did you use the "hairdryer and dental floss" method to remove the old badge?

The wipe will be to clean the surface and make sure there are no oils on the paint. You could also use “panel wipe” products from valet-product companies or Iso-Propyl Alcohol (usually 50/50 dilution with water). That’s the prep before using the adhesive to stick the badge on. Getting rid of old adhesive: you can buy ‘tar and glue remover’ products (Carpro TarX). Spray on, let dwell/sit, agitate gently with a clean microfibre cloth. Careful as they’ll be solvent-based; some can contain toluene or xylene which aren’t designed to be lung-friendly. Other options would be a bit of t-cut as that has Naphthalene in which is a pretty decent solvent too.

Well... All done! New injector (reconditioned Bosch, not an eBay job), new rocker gasket, 3 x new glow plugs (plug 2 stuck) oh and a new coolant resevoir, as mine developed a split. £275 in all for parts and labour. Despite the testing in February being done at a reputable VW specialist, this week's garage said the specialist had not tightened all the rocker cover bolts and had also not replaced a single-use bolt that keeps the injectors in place (if that sounds right). Anyway I have forgotten what "normal" in this car is now. Runs fine, starts fine (what I might call a "throb" feeling on the first kick of the engine then normal) I think I'm dulled to the whole saga now though! A Long run this weekend as a treat for it.

I just feel that when I was getting the car they couldn't be nicer and once I'd drove away it's not the same when you ask for an appointment and say that they booked up for months get skoda assist out just seems bonkers like I've said previously I'm no mechanic but can change wheel if i had a spare and that only issue that worries me is topping up the oil and been told not good to put too much in skoda did top it up free after buying some 0w 20 I haven't used so can't complain about that even though they did give a bs story I'd overfilled it although when they sent me a report the only thing done was top the oil up according to the technician report. There's is more silly goings on after but it don't have anything to do with the car directly. Sorry for the long story guys but thanks for taking time to read and advice

I almost ran out of breath reading that! As @Ootohere says, checking/maintaining oil level is one of the basic things that you need to be able to do, along with checking/maintaining tyre pressure, changing a wheel, etc. It's easier to be able to sort those small issues yourself - not to mention you should a) be checking them fairly regularly and b) if you go for a road trip, it may come in handy! Regarding your issue, I would personally take the car to an Independent and see what they think. Volks Work LTD and VASS Autotech are both near you and have a good reputation. This does run the risk of the dealer saying that someone else has touched it, etc, but as you have already had the car in with them and don't believe they did a proper job, I wouldn't think this is a major issue. If you can let us know about the servicing/mileage/purchase stuff that Ootohere asked for, I'm sure we'll be able to help further. Perhaps, if you're that unsure about oil levels, you could also ask the indie/dealer to show you what to do? My local dealer is very friendly and would help without hesitation (although they are the only reasonable main dealer I've ever come across).

Just drove it up and down a straight road was a waste of time and they did that just to get shut of me. Didn't even pull into workshop to take a closer look the car drives fine in a straight line no warning lights and never missed a beat it's only when full lock on turning round I'm no mechanic but how I can describe the noise is I had a vw passat previous and needed wheel bearings it was the same sort of sound if that makes any sense apart from that I did have someone out from skoda assist but he wasn't too pleased when he came as I'd not broken down but did have a look at the wheels and said there was a small stone stuck in brake caliper and would be needing new pads in coming months the wheel wasn't taken off either so I've given up on it as I've got some personal issues to deal with and I'll end up getting stressed out over something small

At skoda it didn't even go into the workshop and it's a motability car

There's speed bumps, barriers and cameras everywhere now. Frankly, I think the days of non-static car meets, outside of a track, are over. Too many people make too many dumb decisions, and ruin it for the rest of us. The only good moving meet I've been to is the London-Brighton Mini Run! Okay, we did break down three times (I'm not counting the two on the way home), but it was brilliant fun.

300bhp the stock brakes are fine. 550bhp I would be looking at wider tyres, bigger brakes and some beefing up of the platform. Heck, if you're doing an AWD conversion, I'd even look at a bolt in half cage. It'll look cool and, on the rare occasion you do put your foot down, will give you some extra chassis stiffness and safety. I know someone that has done an AWD conversion in his Mk2. If you PM some contact info, I can see if he'll give you some pointers - he's dead friendly and has done more than one conversion.

It's definitely a lot to consider when making this decision. My engine plan is putting an na engine in for now running 300bhp. Then later down the line turbocharging it. And seeing what power that makes. Although I've been told the stock internals are good for around 550bhp. I would also be going 4wd too. This is all purely for show and the occasional bit of spirited driving. The wheels are definitely 9j and the tyres have a slight stretch. The car is on new yellowspeed racing coilovers. So suspension is pretty much sorted other than some poly bushes. I'll look into the rs3 brake ducts definitely. As it all helps.

I think the first thing to say (without preaching to the choir) is that you can stick on some RS6 carbon ceramics, and your 60-0 distance will be the exact same. In fact, with the extra unsprung/rotating mass, it would probably be worse. The only point of larger discs and calipers are for better thermal resistance - in other words, larger discs take longer to heat up. If you're not on track through, then you won't be benefitting from this. While I'm not sure what setup you have at the moment, I will say that the standard 340mm discs and caliper setup on my vRS 245 really isn't the lightest. For comparison sake, the Racingline EVO 4-pot BBK comes in at 4.4kg per side (caliper, pads, carrier), compared to the hefty 8.6kg of the stock single piston setup. That's a huge difference. Frankly, even their 6-pot monoblock is a good 3kg lighter than the standard caliper. Unless you're going to carbon ceramics, you'll find that bigger discs are heavier. For some idea, an average 310mm disc comes in at about 8.4kg, compared to the 10.8 of a 340mm. Those Akebono callipers call for 374x36mm discs - that's big. Ultimately, it's about deciding what is more important to you. If it were me and I was going up to a larger engine, I would first consider doing some changes to the suspension and putting some 245, 255 or even 265 section tyres on there. Are your wheels definitely 9J? (The minimum tyre size for 9" is largely recommended at 235) From there, I'd do some braided lines, and look at a 345/355mm BBK - such as from Racingline, EBC, with some nice pads and uprated master cylinder/servo. This setup would give you - Bigger, lighter and better looking calipers Bigger, better looking discs (that are probably only marginally heavier than OE) Better pedal feel with the lines, pads and rest of the system Better handling and braking (that can get the most out of the fancy new brakes) I'd also look at some ducts to keep the system cool (more fun than anything else, really) - either the clip on RS3 style wishbone ones, or proper bumper vent ducts. The only other thing to add, is it's not all fun with larger brakes/BBKs. Larger dual-piece discs are more prone to warping, larger calipers are more prone to damage on the UK roads (salt, etc) and usually worsen the NVH (pads don't have shims and the like, no dust boots, etc). Personally I'd just stick some 340mm R brakes on it and spend the saved money on a bigger turbo!

It passed anyway , just a bit annoying though

Hi everybody. Owned this little beauty for about 9 months. Upgraded to an Amundsen, fitted H&R springs and a wheel refurb so far.

Calipers and discs from a Macan/TT (VBT) are a popular upgrade. If you want to go BBK, then Racingline, AP, Alcon/Revo, Tarox and YSR are all worth a look. Mind you, unless you're pushing silly power, you might want to think twice - especially with those wheels! BBK calipers are heavy and will make the ride pretty... less good.

Not sure, I went to see it, drove lumpy and seemed underpowered, so walked away

In the dry, low tread is actually better! It's in the wet that you have a problem...

The 1mm minimum on the grinall is probably because it's a legally a bike not a car as tyres go. Still not a good idea though.

It is running with power off the cars 12 volt system is it not when the vehicles mobile. Like the phone charging , lights horn, fans etc and not the high voltage traction battery. As to when stopped how soon it will run down the 12 volt battery will depend on what it,s power requirement is. Someone can correct me hopefully..

April fools was 2 days ago mate.

Being for the most part self taught the vast majority of what I have learned in life has been from my mistakes, most I don't class as unfortunate as they were willing decisions to see what the outcome would be, mistaking holes on the rear differential was unfortunate and unintended but learning came from it, if I can pass that on to prevent others doing the same I don't mind sharing my sometimes incompetence with the world, something garages won't do.

My photo was the right way up before I posted it?

I have been driving my Mk4 Superb estate with hand controls for a few weeks now. As per my previous comments on this thread I can reach through the steering wheel whilst stationary to select D or R and have just got used to this set up. Doing a 3 point turn in a street not much wider than the Superb is long was a bit of a faff though.

will send it to u shortly. cost wise - it will cost u just 12% of wat u will spend on those Bilsteins.

tis the reason why a number of Superb owners, including myself, with DCC suspension have done the DCC Slider Mod + DCC Recalibration. no more softness. no more wallowing. no more bottoming out. no more body roll (when paired with lowered springs and/or uprated rear swaybars). the DCC Slider Mod updates the Superb's suspension algorithm to that used by the Arteon (which is the exact same size as the Superb). hence rebounds and compressions r more controlled and better composed overall. the factory DCC algorithm loaded in the Superb is not suited for it all, hence the undesirable effects. likely they just used a "vanilla" version. the DCC Recalibration updates the suspension's max and min travel lengths, thus allowing the suspension module to control in the shocks most efficient suspension travel range.

Yeah, I've since had a couple of places look at it and unfortunately it is a full intake manifold replacement. Got a couple of prices for genuine and OEM parts, with a decent price difference between them, so I at least have options.

Hi, After engine run I think I added around 100-150ml exactly as you did. The total volume was approximately 750-800ml too. I spilled a bit of oil when topping up until overfilling.

Speaking from experience, get some bin bags and stuff them over the discs/calipers anyway. Don’t ask😆

You’re in the UK aren’t you? We aren’t in the EU anymore! By few miles I assume because it’s a special car, etc, rather than being driven around town only? EBC BrakesECE Regulation 90 – What’s it All About?New titanium shims are a must-have for high-performance braking.

Welcome! This might be of interest to you - a fair few of us local to you.

@J.R. is fully fluent in the international language of love. English. PS. And his holes. Haldex and diff. We learn sometimes by unfortunate errors.

Important is about the last Skoda Main Dealer service was did they know their holes. Drain and fills. Arse from elbow. But we will never know.

I did read your post carefully ,theres alot of people on this site done alot of years driving and a few done some racing aswell so know what their talking about ,so you could try being less judgemental ,folk will buy the tyres they can afford ,just because it doesnt say michelin or goodyear dont make it a bad tyre ,as i said before alot of crap is talked about tyres on car forums,and if your out with the roads unit are you an advanced police driver by any chance.

for £16,500 I’m sure you can find a lower-mileage example with a full service history. Keep looking.

Its usually the driver that runs out of ability before the tyre does ,as the police tell you in bad conditions slow down.

Do you mean the silver coloured strip (with the led lighting strip)? If so, this is a plastiwelded piece (been there, done that, thanks dealer for scratching mine). The only removable bits on the door card are the switches, switch cover thingy on the passenger side, and the outside of the grab handle. Everything is else is part of the door card. What @varaderoguy is suggesting is to remove the entire card (it's a couple of fixings) and see if it's anything behind there. It could be the lighting strip is a bit loose, etc. It's not difficult to do, however if it's your first time then I would exercise some caution - they come off much easier than they go back on!

It sounds like a kind of the American way of looking at servicing - the "Jiffy Lube" style of place. A lot of these folks there are barely trained or just starting out on the journey to become technicians - on the basis of how hard can an oil change be - but you will hear plenty of horror stories about those places. From above, it also looks like they didn't charge you for an oil filter (did they change the oil filter??). I'm surprised too by the charge for (specialist) oil - your postings seem to be around the Superb 2, so I'm not sure what specialist oil you would use over/above VW504/507 spec oil and the engine flush seem really expensive too. Sounds like you might have had a lucky escape.

Out with old red, in with the new blue!😁

I've just bought through this seller: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/286236597304 Report was sent in under 5 mins from purchase, and it's exactly as described, 7 pages of PR codes for my VIN. Fiver well spent :-)

hi guys and Admin would it be possible to create a new thread Skoda Octavia Mk4.5 thread (facelift version)? entertainment is not the same best regards

As I still have a 3-year warranty, I haven't installed the software as I don't want to lose the warranty