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Latest Updated Speedcams - January, 2026. Here goes - my first upload for this year. Once again here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( January, 2026 ). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Redlight Speedcams, Fixed Speedcams , Average Speedcams ( which also include European tunnel speedcams ) and Variable Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the speedcam categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams - January, 2026.zip * Credit to jungblume2005 from Gpsurl for sharing his files which I borrowed and then converted in order to make this compilation.

I haven't. But went out to the car last night and it all worked as it should. I'll monitor it in future. Thanks both for taking the time to reply. Andy

AGM batteries usually sit at 85% charged capacity. Not coding in your battery will also mess up stop/start and you may also get voltage spikes on the car electrics due to the BMS struggling to know what the current charge or voltage is or should be. This may also throw low voltage codes.

Step 1. Install the free VW Pre Compiled Database located on the download section of this site to your PC: https://free-speed-cam-updates.web2diz.net/ Step 2. Unzip/extract the files on your PC and copy the contents of the resulting folder onto a SD card. ( Important points to note: Only copy the contents of the main folder i.e. Do not copy the resulting extracted folder named Volkswagen PersonalPOI - just copy the contents that are displayed inside that folder which is a folder named PersonalPOI and a metainfo2.txt file. Delete the readme.txt file as well as that is unnecessary. Also further note that despite trying to use 2 different usb sticks unsuccessfully only an sd card would work for me. I used the sd card which contains my music files but remember to delete the copied files off afterwards as sometimes they may prevent your music from playing and they are no longer required as they have been copied to the internal memory of the Amundsen ). Step 3. Using the "manage memory option" of the nav settings upgrade the software. Step 4. In the "map" settings chose poi categories, scroll to the bottom and the newly added items should be displayed there. Tick these to activate them. Step 5. In the "nav announcement" settings of the nav settings make sure that there is a tick in the "My POI" item. This enables an audible speedcam alert. To sum up - it's pretty easy to do and it's free and there are monthly updates on the site. On the downside - I'm not sure how reliable and up to date the database is as I've already had to manually edit and remove an out of date camera from my location. IMO the audible alert is a bit feeble and can't be changed but it's better than nothing. I'm not too fussed on the camera icons either. I hope this post is of help to others and I would like to thank the contributors of the other threads regarding this topic on this forum from whom I have gained my insight. I have compiled my own version with my preferred choice of speedcam icons limited to UK fixed cameras and traffic light cameras using the VW database on the above site which I've attached below to share if anyone wants them. Remember to only copy the files as per the above instructions. My Uk Speedcams.zip

Towards the end of 2020 ι was hearing a strange noise from the roof light and only when the car was turning, an annoying ''tzzzz" but not when it was rolling in a straight line. I waited a few days and at the beginning of 2021 i went to the repair-shop. I asked them to remove the Headlining (here we call it inner roof) for inspection and on the occasion, i told them to soundproof the roof of the car. That ''squeaky'' sponge was removed permanently, the inner roof was cleaned thoroughly and as you can there are 3 small holes, the 2 of them was from a bottle of beer that a neighbour throw out from his balcony towards the trash-can on the road (but landed in my car which was beside) and the other from a juvenile which hit my roof as a sign of ''resistance'' because i had a Greek flag sticker in the trunk door. According to his religion the neighbour should drinking because he could face a fine and public whipping in his country but here is Greece and the local's people assets don't count. I didn't had the time and money to fix those holes plus the painting job so i let them for another time. The sponge that has been removed from his position a bit and the harness of the ceiling light was causing that sound. As for the soundproof project first i bought some sheets of STP Black Silver Shop Pack, according to the manufacturer: It is installed in any area of the car where vibration attenuation is required: external and intermediate door panels, roof, floor, engine compartment, trunk, etc. The ceiling was ''naked'' from inside and for sure there were some vibrations because there was to support except one bracket in the middle and second i bought a cheaper material in roll form to absorb the sound.

Hello, welcome to the forum. You shouldn't need to reset your location - the GPS receiver does all the locating automatically when it boots up and 'sees' sufficient satellites for a fix. Most likely you have a problem with your GPS antenna. What is your vehicle and what infotainment system - Amundsen MIB2?

Hmmm...Googling suggests fuel injected quantity is accurate to "a few % in lab conditions". So it's going to be worse in practise. Forecourt fuel pumps are accurate to 0.5% - they're checked regularly due to excise duty on fuel. I've done cumulative MPG over 10K miles so that negates any brim to brim errors. The only unknown error the odometer, but that will apply to the car's own calculation too.

Steve, Thanks, I use EE and have full eu access for about £6.88 a month, happily I’ve not paid my phone bill for about 5 years (it’s on my son in laws account, and costs him almost nothing compared to the hours I spend in his garden (just cutting the grass on his “paddock” takes about an hour an the drive on mower). I’ll leave the £70 in my bank 👍😁

A coolant sensor with debris on it or with damaged cables (both have happened to me) does not make the light bulb to turn on. A faulty sensor can make the cluster gauge to show''fake'' results for the coolant temperature and make the needle to go up-down unpredictably (also happened to me) .

Voice - 0x19

According to AI..... To reset the Inspection light on a Škoda Fabia Mk4, turn the ignition off, then press and hold the "0.0" trip reset button while turning the ignition on (don't start the engine); keep holding until the service interval message appears, then release and press the button again to reset the Oil Service, then repeat the whole process (hold button, ignition on, wait) to get to the Inspection Service, release, and press again to reset.....

Fixed. Thank you for the help. Wonder why this happens.... See the the arrow - that pin should be inside the outer plate. LORD it wasnt fun job - and still have to put all back again. Have no idea how Im going to get the plastic clips to the air flow flaps on place..... Always one thing to get clips out and totally other job to get them to attach again.... So what I did: Out with: Dash insert Instrument cluster (had new cable on it so couldnt get off the cable from cluster, took off on the gearbox) - left hanging Glove box insert Loosen all four cables to air control flaps, two in engine bay and two are reached from glove box hole Now I could get off the ash tray insert when heater control panel is loose Attached wires to the cables from engine bay and pulled them inside car And after turning the heater knob, I could get the controller out through instrument cluster hole!

To a point, I agree - but using cruise in suitable conditions can help reduce fatigue on a drive by not needing to maintain a fixed throttle position for long periods. No substitute for regular rest stops, but it is useful.

Quick thoughts. What needs rectifying, you put it was fine, do you mean you still have the crank-but-not-starting-for-a-long-time? What basics have you covered such as age and type of petrol (I've forgot already what engine is fitted, injection or carb), others will remember plus there are threads and posts on such an issue but they can tend to be long as specifics and details are missing at the start of the threads and really being remote from the vehicle questions and answers are usually need. Have you fitted new parts, how well did the engine start previous to this. Fuel, ignition, compression.

Maybe you need press button to show values? it will show value in DEC

No

@Stonekeeper totally my mistakes I thought I'd posted stuff I hadn't, nothing wrong with your post. I've promoted the reading on manuals for decades especially as I found macho and other types of men don't believe in reading manuals for various reasons and that long term owners of some cars don't know somethings because they didn't read the car's owner's manual or don't refer to it and have forgotten what they read in it long ago. Newbies to a car or model often think they need the workshop manuals when often the owner's manual would serve them better for most things other than more in depth repairs. The owner's manual can offer prevention which is better than having to consider some sort of repair which might involve unnecessary visits to Dealers, garages, mechanics and auto-electricians. The older owner's manuals, such as for a Felicia, are better than for the later VWŠkoda models as more information is given and not held back for whatever reason(s) too.

I think it is multiple times per second. However, it depends on how many satellites it is synched with and speed of travel and the changes of direction. At a steady 30MPH with 6 satellites, one system I used came down to a 10m accuracy. In urban areas, where you loose and re-sync satellites all the time, the accuracy can be far less. certainly at higher speeds.

It was me that was searching for a manual, and yes I still am :-)

Sat Nav reads your movement along the ground, so is affected by hills and bends curves. It is not affected by the size of your wheels/tyres or tread wear. Put simply it measures the time it’s taken for you to move between 2 and more bearings. You could be on a ferry or flying. Provided you have the minivan out of satellite reception your good.

As I already said, my AAW of the very first patch made works fine about 5 or 6 years already. And it still gets updates.

Even though in the UK we are still using imperial (but only for some things........) the system still works in metric in the background. My wife's Octavia doesn't cover many miles so its on annual servicing and when it comes out of the Skoda garage after a service I always check the service reminder has been reset so it does show the 9300 miles to next service, and as I cover a few more miles in the Superb its on variable servicing and it shows 18700 to the next service, so when either car indicates it needs a service its booked in.

If the new battery is the same as the old one then the system should be OK. Maybe the system also takes the age of the battery into its charging routine, so maybe if you wanted to code it, just change the last 2 digits of the battery number and leave the others alone. That way the system will now know the battery is new?

If you can and you don't have a frowning salesman sitting alongside, try doing a timed run 0-60 somewhere safe.

That could also be the diesel waxing as it’s been very cold recently

Yes, t Yes, that's the case, at least on mine and seems on yours too. Go for AAWireless. It's made in China, but developed and produced by a Swiss guy as a startup. Works flawlessly.

I presume you mean the car overheated because the stat stuck shut (not open). You don't say what year your car is but my 2019 Polo (manual, non DSG Gearox) has two thermostats to promote quick warm up. The VAG cars coolant temperature for many years now (at least 25) will read a steady 90C once the coolant temp reaches 75C and will not read higher unil/if the actual coolant temp exceeds something like 107C, you can see my coolant indicates 90C when the actual temperature reaches 75C. I very much doubt if that new stat would develop a fault so soon. Edit: If your gauge showed 74C then the actual coolant temp was probably more like 66C. VW Polo Petrol Jan 2019 Coolant Temp VCDS/Car 52 /52 53/55 56/58 58/62 60/65 63/69 64/72 66/74 68/78 69/82 71/84 73/86 74/88 75/89 75/90

If it’s a DSG replace that stat also IMO

AFAIK, 1 or 2 year time interval is only related to the oil quality. Long Life oils allow 2-year interval, whereas non-LL oils have 1-year interval. Mileage intervals are slightly different indeed just to ease the maintenance monitoring. Countries which use metric system have 15000 / 30000 / 45000 / 60000 / 75000 / 90000... km intervals, whereas countries using imperial system have 10000 / 20000 / 30000 / 40000 / 50000 / 60000... mi intervals. But everyone knows that 1 mi isn't 1.5 km... but 1.609 km actually. Much more simple than 16090 / 32180 / 47270 / 64360 / 80450 / 96540 km or 9323 / 18645 / 27968 / 37290 / 46613 / 55935 mi, depending on the reference you choose...

I fitted a new AGM battery, same type and capacity, with 6 months the stop start failed to work and bat capacity was at 70% even on after a long run.... i then coded it and re charged it. Has been fine since. Evidence perhaps not but considering the OP has had issues without a coding, it does seem to point to that batteries need coding upon replacement.

I agree no one has offered any evidence either way. However I still prefer to play safe and do the coding. No-one has ever said doing the coding is bad in any way.

I'm probably being pedantic, and somewhat off topic, but that doesn't quite make sense, the UK is in Europe. Back on topic I've had my Superb since new and one of the dealer services is missing from the print out the dealer can supply you with, I have the relevant invoice for the 'missing' service so no question it has been done should the next owner query it. Could be the same in your case, is there any paperwork available?

And you'll get exactly the same divided opinion here. I'm in the 'car will figure it out just fine' camp. No-one ever really produces any proper evidence either way.

Arh - the "car will learn" way of doing things. No - sorry; I don't buy that. Yes, eventually the car does learn, but it never fully charges or optimises the battery. Get somebody with ODBEleven or VCDS and properly code up the correct battery type and capacity.

Which is what I did.

I have the same problem. (Also in Scotland). I can unlock the doors with the remote, but when I try to open the driver's door, it feels like the door is still locked. It's caused by water inside the lock mechanism freezing, and not properly releasing. I had it on my previous Octavia. The only real cure is to take the door panel off, to get access to the mechanism, dry it out, and then spray it generously with lithium grease. The trick is to prevent water from settling in the mechanism again, so it won't freeze. (WD40 doesn't last) That'll be a job for the summer. Freezing door seals can be cured by smearing them with silicone grease.

Hi, thank you very much for the instructions. I struggled a bit with windows 11, but in the end everything is OK. The radio with SmartLink activation works. Thanks again Tom

Welcome to the forum buddy 🙂

The fuel system is no doubt precisely accurate as you say. But the odometer is not. Cars still rely on wheel sensors to compute distance travelled, just as they do to show speed. And the rolling circumference of a worn tyre with tread depth at the UK legal limit can be around 2% less than the rolling circumference of a new tyre. The car has no way of compensating for that error when calculating mpg. So it's accurate enough, indeed more than enough, but not as precisely accurate as you suggest. At 45 mpg, a 2% error is nearly 1 mpg. (And the same odometer error will also affect the human doing brim-to-brim sums.)

A while back I considered paying up for a Cubic connection - but chose not to. The benefits I could see were… Roaming when in mainland Europe Combined with the car WiFi hotspot passengers could also get internet access through it. However, with the likes of Lebara and IDMobile including roaming at good value there was no need. Even with two or three passengers with their own SIMs it worked out cheaper than Cubic.

I did do that which works fine stopping it freezing up, but it didn't stop the switch mechanism failing and needing replacement. Luckily it was still within warranty and i got the opportunity to watch the repair procedure on my drive. So next time I can do it myself.