Leaderboard

Hello, I just got my second Skoda Fabia. The first one was MK1 Diesel. now I have MK4 petrol. It will be relay interesting to learn from your experience.

My first time giving advice on this awsome site. My recently purchased white Vrs estate was let down by the very same discoloured panels. Searched around and saw this YouTube video. I followed the instructions and the result was amazing. https://youtu.be/wtwZlEtJU5s?si=lCscqYSuQptBVKF- I hope i have done this correctly.

I had a 1.8 TSi which was quick and reliable, but there have been problems with that engine as it has aged. Not heard anything bad about the 1.4 (2016) - there are / were a couple of 1.4 L&K owners on here. Should be sprightly (same 150bhp as the old 1.8) and easy to drive. Manual only.

Sadly said goodbye to my beloved 2.0TDi BKD Mk2 of the last 18 years on Sunday. It was a very sad moment. Almost like grieving a relative. At 22 years old she was still a stunner. It was the best car I ever have owned. It was loved, cherished and pampered. Always reliable. Always started (except when I left the lights on). Comfortable. Solid. Economical. I wondered why I was getting rid as I drove it to Oxford and back last Saturday. Alas, she is gone..... Not moving far from the fold though. Getting a MK3 Estate on a 2020 plate so last of the MK3's before the MK4's Not picked it up yet but hope it's every bit as good as this one.

Could be antiroll bar bushes or perhaps a bad cv joint/propshaft as its more noticeable when turning. Check the top mount again and also the top strut bolt. Had an annoying tack tack noise on mine and discovered the top strut nut needed tightening. Why it came loose I don't know. It started soon after I got the car so I assume at some point strut had been removed/broken spring and not torqued up properly. Alasdair

It doesn't make a difference. Regardless of his actions, his reverse lights were on and you did have time to see him and stop. There were nearly three seconds between his wheels moving and the collision. As I said, while in reality it wasn't your fault at all, I will be extremely suprised if the insurers don't put it down to a 50/50. I may or may not have seen him move, depending on where I was looking. That said, I would have seen his reverse lights and stopped, or at least slowed down. However, it's easy to sit here and comment on footage captured by a dashcam - I can't see how OP could have not seen the SLK begin to move, but I wasn't there. If I was tired, in a rush, or just thinking about other things, I would imagine a similar mistake would have been made. Yes, I always slow down in car parks and check reverse lights, but if someone had just pulled out on me during all the times I haven't been going slow and looking, this would have been the result. As I said before, while I sympathise strongly with OP and believe that the outcome would have been the same with 99% of forum users here, the accident is, IMO, a 50/50.

I eventually had my battery in my 1.4Tsi replaced before the 3 year warranty expired. Diagnostic checks were done several times,to no avail , but the stop start didn't work even after a 300mile run. The car is now 10 years old and SS still works after a decent run 30 miles plus.

... Er, it will be a 1.4 if it's 2016 ?

A successor may be coming not very soon, or perhaps not at all: https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/skoda/karoq/368846/exclusive-new-generation-skoda-karoq-cards-hybrid-power And another report: AutocarA new Skoda Karoq may be on the way... | AutocarSUV was launched in 2017 and has racked up more than 100,000 UK sales since

What engine is it?

All back to standard spec again, my lovely alloys taken off and original wheels back on, sub removed, spare wheel removed, rear window blind removed and all my junk taken out, there was an awful lot of that. She being PX'ed next week, a new Skoda will be incoming. It's not a Superb 280 so I guess I will be introducing myself to another section? This one should be up for sale in Newbury, Skoda for way more than they gave me no doubt, but I got a good "overall" deal so not complaining. The bronze JR alloys will not fit the new car, that is a blow, but not a deal breaker. So if anyone is looking for a nice Dec2023 280, this is it, not a mark on her, and only 2500 miles (low due to illness) Sort of saying goodbye to this thread but I'll keep on eye on it still, I'm sure?

You can get Smartlink for a lot less than a dealer will charge - see my post above. I Have to say I am very happy with the CPlay2air wireless adapter recommended by PetrolDave (big thanks). I have since found lots of wireless adapters advertised on Amazon but quite a lot of negative feedback about adapters stopping working after a few weeks or months,

Job finally done and thought that I'd share my experience incase it helps someone in the future. After unhooking the nipple from the handbrake balancing arm, it seemed as if the issue was that the bush as it entered the tube under the car had welded itself to the tube. Using grips I was able to rotate the bush but it wouldn't slide out. With much twisting and pulling it finally shifted and what I found was the the inner plastic sleeve had split and over time had bunched up and effectively locked tight within the tube. That was the issue, not the bush itself. But all done now

Thank you for the reply. My version is MEN2_EU_SKGPx_P0460L How can you disconnect only vcc - it is 8th leg. right?

Double check correct adapter inserting in CH341A, if problem persist, desolder only vcc leg, not entire chip.

it`s not hard do desolder eeprom if you have hot gun air . t is always better to download and read it. Sometimes the clip does not read the all file. but if want only with clip check where is pin 1 in programmer and pin1 eeprom. push clip and read it . but always use verify options ( in read / write )

There is a possible issue with fuel rail securing bolts for some 1.4TSIs around 2015 - 2017 - where bolts have sheared-off or loosened, resulting in fuel leaks and stoppage. There was a fairly extensive recall for this for North American vehicles, but apparently no action was taken by DVSA over here! Both myself and at least one other forum member have had this failure - but I definitely wouldn't rule out this engine because of it, I think it's a great one.

Some say an orbital polisher with appropriate compound. Others buy a stick on overlay from Temu/Ali_exp type places. Have a search. Not done either myself

It's a real con that you have to pay for smartlink, but worth it to use Google Maps. They claim it's some licensing issue and would be unfair to charge everyone when not everyone wants it - but I paid £170 odd to get it tunred on on my Octi III (charged to my business and hence VAT refunded .. so not too bad) which is a fraction of the cost of a car! Anyway, pleased to say that the map updates for the built in SatNav are now free (I hadn't realised) and though it took forever (6 hours) to move the files to the SD card, I now have maps that actually show things like the Huntingdon Southern Bypass (which has been open for many years but not on my SatNav). Having used Google Maps for the last umpteen years in lieu of up to date Skoda maps, I hadn't realised that TMC got turned off in 2024 ... so the "Traffic" button on my dashboard is now totally redundant. Back to Google Maps I gbuess :-) . Anyway, if you DO want to use the SKODA SatNav it's free and easy to do if just a little slow. The bloke charging £20 to send you the maps on a USB stick or £14 to update your SD card is doing nothing you can't do yourself.

Try this thread - just click on the link :-) https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/338642-fabia-ii-glove-box-light-plunger-switch-access/

You might be better looking or asking in the Fabia Mk4 forum (or other model similar fittings to a Polo) as your issue might just be one of the general reasons or more specfic to time of car or radio production. You might be referring to a different car but your 'Author's stats' show "Location: Cork Model: Polo TL 1.0 M5F 65 hp (petrol) Year: 2019" so they might, or might not, need updating. HTH.

The MK2 was really a tough and well made/thought out car. Miss my hatch. If it wasn’t for the age I would get a FL Octy I love the look off the Pre-FL and FL Octavia. However I have a Suoerb 2 estate which really does things a load better. Plus the lines of the Superb 3 tempted me also to get an estate but in Petrol. Hope the new one serves just as well

Anti-roll bar bushes seem to be a frequent VAG thing.. took mine, with a suspension creak on uneven bits like speed bumps, to my regular MOT garage who said they'd seen it on a number of VAG cars. If it gets too annoying the bushes can be changed, but if there's no play they will pass MOT.

There are limitations on how accurate a satnav is, as has been said. Some of this is down to the technology and some down to its failure to be properly updated. My worry is not where we are but what happens in the fuure. Self driving cars which drive at the speed limit rather than a comfortable speed (I will not drive my car with ACC engaged at it drves at the speed limit and goes far too fast round bends, and has anyone else seen the Tesla drive into a freight train in America) and so many vehicles here that claim to be limited to the local limit, but are actually limited to what the system thinks the limit is. It could be really frustrating and potentially dangerous for a vehicle which is limited in a 20 limit if it passes into a 60 limit without responding correctly.

I would check and clean all earths. It may be that under normal load the battery is fine showing 12.6v but when cranking under extra load a poor earth can cause voltage to drop for enough time to trigger codes. Check the earth/terminals at starter motor etc as well. Does the car turn over at a decent speed? Alasdair

Basically this, but it works even better if you push the connector (as if plugging it in rather than trying to remove), while undoing the latch. Once you hear the latch click open, then pull connector off

Maybe just the wishbone bushings then.

I disagree. I use ACC heavily - especially in traffic or poor weather. It allows me to focus on other drivers and such things that I might normally take an extra second to notice, was I to be looking at my speedo, etc. One such example is in heavy motorway traffic. I don't care what the car in front is doing - I'm looking ten cars behind or ahead. If there is a situation where having ACC on affects the outcome of an event, then you were going too quickly to begin with. I am always supervising what Occy is doing, and ready to step in, or take action, should it be required. I believe the car will brake or swerve faster than I can react (probably, anyway) and I feel I'm far more useful monitoring other cars, the road ahead and things the car can't do.

Lovely Crepuscular Rays on the way home this afternoon. Almost as though God himself was peering down through the clouds!

Oh 100%. Like I said, OP was busy looking for a space and the reverse light was pretty poor. In the eyes of the insurers, though, it was on - no matter how visible.

Thanks all. Very informative.

Just filled my tank up. £102.23 for 66 litres. First time ever in nearly 30 years of driving that I've spent over £100 of a fillup. Come close a few times, but never gone into three figures. I might go and have a lie down, it's a lot to take in 🤣

7 yo beer guide, crikey half the pubs will be long gone by now

A really bad idea to even consider using cruise in fog and snow or heavy rain - these are conditions where the driver needs to be fully in control at all times.

I need to disagree. I had the predictive thing on and it drove me crazy, I wanted to keep it at 100 KMPH and the damn thing reset to 130, since I was on a highway. It was night, foggy and snowing, with slush already on the road, so I did not want to go 130. Ended up not using the CC at all. Then I searched the web, found the solution, went to the car and disabled the predictive thing. Now, if I use travel mode, it will adjust to the road speed signs, as it sees them, w/o preparing for it, as in slowing before the sign. If I use ACC, it will keep the speed I set, no matter the road signs, but still keep the distance from the car in front. This is what I wanted. Travel mode is way more than just steering, it can also be used in slow traffic, as it will stp and start the car from standstill, keep the distance from the car in front, keep you at the speed limit etc. Why do you think VAG would put options doing the exact same thing, safe for assist steering? This is what Google gives you - what I explained is Option 2: Option 1: Complete ACC Deactivation (Stalk Method) Push the cruise control lever on the left side of the steering column all the way away from you until it "clicks" into the off position. Option 2: Deactivate Predictive Elements (Infotainment Method) Open Driving Assistance on the central screen. Select ACC. Toggle "Road layout preview" (corners, roundabouts) and "Speed limit preview" (signs) to off. Temporary Cancelation Tap the brake pedal. Push the lever slightly away from you (not to the full click). Permanent Deactivation To disable PCC permanently for all trips, it must be switched off in the driving assistance settings menu. Switching to Regular Cruise Control Some models allow switching to standard cruise control by holding the distance button on the stalk/steering wheel.

The Epiq is due out in September I think, based on the same platform as the VW Polo, ID Cross and Cupra Raval. Its not a proper small car being about the size of the Kamiq and certainly not sub-20K. https://youtu.be/3g3kDltISmY?si=CIU4aEBExRXlTTuy

Hey I had posted on here for advice Ended up getting a 3GB035869 RCD520 8 touch installed; was $400 nzd Pretty happy with the upgrade Photos of new and old

Pleased to say I now have Smart Link and Apple Car Play. I paid to download the files and procedure from this eBay page https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404559000150 It cost £55 but a local VAG centre quoted me £140+vat just for the "product" and was then planning to charge labour on top for the installation. I am very happy. I got a second hand official Skoda SD card which allowed the satnav to work but it is a pretty clunky system. Google maps via Apple Car Play is more user friendly.

Just to make others aware and hopefully help someone else fix a similar issue. I own a Skoda Octavia MK3, 2017 model (new facelift), chassis type 5E, engine code CZDA. Recently, I had a problem with the cruise control: it stopped working. When starting the engine, everything seemed fine, but after driving past about 20 miles per hour, an error appeared on the dashboard and the cruise control became unavailable. No other faults were shown anywhere. When checking the car with VCDS, I was getting the following errors: 01-Engine – Status: Malfunction 0010 - This fault kept coming back every time, even after clearing it with VCDS. 16-Steering wheel – Status: Malfunction 0010 - This error could be cleared, but it returned at the next engine start whenever the cruise control was activated. Address 01: Engine (J623-CZDA) Labels:. 04E-907-309-V1.clb Part No SW: 04E 906 027 HD HW: 04E 907 309 BH Component: R4 1.4l TFS H26 3742 Revision: R7H26--- CVN: 65239CB2 Coding: 01190032232401080000 Shop #: WSC 73430 031 00000 ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM14TFS01104E906027HD 001007 ROD: EV_ECM14TFS01104E906027HD.rod VCID: 6DD17CB3BC91F7F308-8038 VINID: 91D4924C779519A0001091021CE819DDF1 Center armrest control head 1: 1 Fault Found: 17165 - Databus U1123 00 [00100100] - Received Error Message Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Priority: 6 Fault Frequency: 1 Mileage: 128339 km Date: 2025.10.31 Time: 10:51:44 Engine speed: 993.00 /min Normed load value: 11.8 % Vehicle speed: 14 km/h Coolant temperature: 88 °C Intake air temperature: 28 °C Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 14.536 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 40 Acceleration: -0.270 m/s² Cruise Control System (CCS): status-Bits 0-7: 2 Cruise_control_shutoff_conditions_irreversible-Bits 0-7: 0 Cruise_control_shutoff_conditions_irreversible-Bits 0-7: 0 Cruise control system: temporary deactivation-Bits 0-7: 255 or 24 Accelerator pedal travel: 0.00 % Cruise control switch actuation-Bits 0-7: 49 Cruise control switch actuation-Bits 0-7: 129 Readiness: 0010 0001 Address 16: Steering wheel (J527) Labels:| 5Q0-953-549.clb Part No SW: 5Q0 953 507 GD HW: 5Q0 953 549 F Component: Lenks. Modul 003 0140 Revision: -------- Serial number: 24031704221492 Coding: 1400 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00000 ASAM Dataset: EV_SMLSKLOMQB 020002 ROD: EV_SMLSKLOMQB_018_VW37.rod VCID: 7EF34BFFE1F77C6BA1-802A 2 Faults Found: 229163 - Turn Signal Switch B1144 13 [00011000] - Open Circuit Intermittent - Confirmed - Not Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 3 Reset counter: 3 Mileage: 128339 km Date: 2025.10.31 Time: 10:51:43 Operating time: 204269 min Terminal 30 power supply: 14.8 V Vehicle speed: 16 km/h Voltage at switch: 4.98 V Terminal 15 status: active System status: 30 FF U Blinker GRA Plus Minus AD value: 254 FF U Blinker GRA Resume Cancel AD value: 254 FF U Blinker GRA Main Switch AD value: 193 229179 - Turn Signal Stalk; Switch for Cruise Control B1144 F3 [00011000] - Electrical Malfunction Intermittent - Confirmed - Not Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 3 Reset counter: 3 Mileage: 128339 km Date: 2025.10.31 Time: 10:51:43 Operating time: 204269 min Terminal 30 power supply: 14.8 V Vehicle speed: 16 km/h Voltage at switch: 4.98 V Terminal 15 status: active System status: 30 FF U Blinker GRA Plus Minus AD value: 254 FF U Blinker GRA Resume Cancel AD value: 254 FF U Blinker GRA Main Switch AD value: 193 After investigating the steering wheel turn signal stalk, I discovered a nearly broken wire that was hanging on by just a single strand. I had to unplug the cruise control wiring to inspect the entire section, as it was hidden inside. Because the wires aren’t long enough, using the stalk for signalling causes them to pull and push slightly up or down. I assume the damage occurred due to this repeated movement over time. You don’t need to remove the entire steering wheel unless the issue is more complicated. I only had to undo one screw underneath and the two screws hidden behind the steering wheel. These become visible if you turn the steering wheel halfway to the left or right to remove the cover. The stalk has a small cover behind it, which you need to take off to access the wiring and the circuit board for the cruise control.