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Aren't skips usually painted yellow?

250 will be fine. My ID.3 seems to have genuine 350 mile range in current weather (not had it in winter yet) and I hardly seem to charge it. I barely think about public charging now - it'll be a shock when we go on holiday 😁

I can only tell you my experience, with similar problem. And what fixed it at last. My vehicle: Skoda Octavia Combi II 1.6 tdi 1z5 CAYC. -> 1st find a good Shop that refurbishes Turbos, and also can do DPF cleaning ( that has the machine and can do the service). You may not need to do those but usually those are the shops that can figure it out, because they can do proper diagnosis. (I only know Shop in Portugal, my home country) On these vehicles there is usually a problem with the cabling, that can give those problems, although its time consuming to diagnose. But if this is the problem you wont need anything else than rewiring, and maybe ECU programing. You need a specialized shop of the type I mentioned earlier. Mine had the same symptoms, I had to leave it there for more than a week, but the man that worked on it was knowleageable, and fixed it and was not expensive, neither it required any special parts like the turbo. 350.000km on vehicle and original turbo at that time . All he did was repair the cabling because it was giving wrong signaling, and that causes havoc on the Engine Computer managment (ECU). I Hope you can find the right one. The shop that did the job for me was a Shop that refurbishes turbos, and also does DPF diagnosis and cleaning services. Those shops usually cand diagnose correctly, LIMP Modes, and Smoke problems.

They do like to lie quite often. BUT if they do not want your business that is maybe that. Spark plugs are 40,000 miles or 4 years. They might be perfect after 5,600 miles & 9 years. But best check, and while taking out and looking as well to have them changed. ...........................I was denied booking for a service offer on a Skoda Fabia vRS at a VW Dealership (Their service price included spark plugs and the Skoda service did not.) as they had a cartel running with the Skoda Dealership the service desk person claimed that they had no Equipment or software to Service and update the Service record. I asked to speak to the Dealer Principal. I explained that i was quite happy to call the local Radio station and newspaper and point out how they operated. He explained there was some misunderstanding @ the Service Desk and they were happy to service VW Group vehicles. PS. Air Filter needs checked, Pollen filter as well. Maybe replaced If not done recently. When was the Oil & Filter changed last?

@PJGallagher Have you changed any bulbs to LEDs? This can have weird side-effects including the car not powering down properly and draining the battery.

I have use in the past sprays for a/c cleaning, straight spray or spray jet even spray-foam (never liked the last ones) I have also use Dettol but they told me to stop doing it: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/532673-dettol-for-cleaning-the-aircondition-why-not/ I have asked in the past for the a/c drain hole but no luck: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/522546-felicia-where-is-the-air-condition-drain-hole/

Make & Model: Skoda Octavia vRS 230 DSG Colour: Moon White Mileage: 80,500 Price: £10,750 ONO Condition: Used Description: For sale is my 2016 Skoda Octavia vRS 230 2.0TSI DSG with just over 80,500 miles, presented in Moon White. It has a full independent service history including multiple services for the DSG box and VAQ diff. This is the rare pre-FL 230 model and I doubt you will find a better example than this. The car has been respectfully maintained and modified within my ownership, with details below. It is running Racingline Stage 2 so has approximately 340bhp. Full independent history with receipts to prove. All modifications professionally fitted. Mods: Racingline OEM+ Stage 2 ECU Racingline OEM+ TCU VAGSport intake DO88 Intercooler Scorpion downpipe with 200 cel cat H&R lowering springs 18" Golf Pretoria Wheels (black) with Continental Sport Contact 7 tyres MTEC discs and EBC red stuff pads (recent) Apple CarPlay activation High Beam assist activation Collection: York Private plate not included in sale.

Does anyone have a link to more detailed information about when the regenerative braking engages on a mild hybrid Octavia? I have been trying to sense this; sometimes it is clear, for example when the car automatically decelerates due to upcoming speed limit changes or vehicles in front of the car, but I haven't been able to tell with certainty if it is ever activated by pressing the brake pedal. I'd like to understand if pressing the brake pedal always only uses the brake discs, if it sometimes uses both discs and regenerative braking or if in some situations pressing the brake pedal (gently) would activate only regenerative braking but not the discs. On the Skoda site they say the following, but it is not clear whether this applies to the MHEV range: "To make the most of it [regenerative braking, my comment], gently press the brake pedal to engage recuperation first; regular brakes only kick in once regenerative braking is maxed out." However, I can sometimes clearly hear the discs engage (for example when it's been raining and they have a thin layer of oxidation) even when using the brake extremely softly, for example when rolling in a queue 1-2km/h and just tapping the brake.

As has been said above, you are probably as well to go to a reputable Audi VW SEAT Skoda specialist. We have an Audi and a Yeti and 'mine' does services for both and updates the online Skoda service record. They are far more competent and flexible that the 'shower' that operate nearest Audi dealer. Which part of the country are you ?

Lots of people are just not wanting Wind or Solar Electricity messing up where they live, they want it to them from other places as if by magic.

no no mate...its all back to stock now...since its not the factor for this coolant loss so everything is back to stock..and personally i dont have any issues so far with the dpf... the garage bypassed everything to save some money from me... it runs on stock now....

First things first - have you changed the pollen filter and checked there's no nastiness going off in it's housing? My old employer used to use the Normfest foggers in their vehicles, and it worked well. Personally, I use an ozone generator. Run it for an hour with the air con on recirculating, then knock it off and let it sit overnight before venting the car. Bear in mind the foggers and ozone are both toxic, so you do need to vent the car out.

Mine is early.. battery is week 6, 15.

New bulb installed and all working as normal. Nothing obvious with the old bulb other than one of the spring clips wasn’t completely home so maybe loose in the holder creating a loose connection on the plug.

Legend, thank you so much!

Thanks. I have swapped the battery out - it was near end of life anyway as was original. However still the lights have reappeared after being cleared with OBD scanner up the garage. Believe it may be the speed sensor now as left with ESC, ABS, TPMS etc.

My Yeti is serviced by a local independent and they don't seem to have a problem with having all the right kit for all the basic stuff. (They probably don't have the jigs to straighten a crash repair but I'm hoping I'll never need to find out). It's hard to believe that a main dealership can't do the necessary work on something within the same group. Perhaps you should put a polite and factual review on Trustpilot and see if they respond.

Love the way the MG's parked - not!

The Police Offices / Station was moved out of Forfar to beside the Council HQ that they are trying to sell and the Public Charging hub. This is the first time i have seen a Police EV charging on the 50 kW chargers that seldom give that Max output. 2 Officers in the car while charging. What a total P!th take and waste of time. At least they can sit looking at a couple of nice cars.

My Octy have 288mm discs on front (PR code 1ZE) and strut diameter is 50mm. Nothing has been modified.

Just a note. As your battery is new it probably won't mind being rushed but if the Noco 10 runs at 10-amp its a bit over the top for a 70 Ah battery, VWŠkoda in the their 'Owner's Manual' have to use 0.1 to battery Ah, so 7-amp when battery is connected to car and that would be my maximum for bench too, though I'd use a lower amp charger, often 4-amp or 1.8-amp for a battery that won't start the engine particularly a modern engine. Varta might also have their battery to be bench charged at 4/5-amps(?). More isn't always better. IIRC general rule is faster recharge for fast discharge and slow recharge for slow discharge but in my experience I've always found a long, slow, low recharge to be better but of course this does require the time (sometimes days) and patience. Good luck, how's it going?

Additional information about swapping injectors. In my '11 Fabia VRS. Original harness connector for injectors is 4D0971992 which mates with KOSTAL 10014252 and if you can't find this variant, than lower max. temp. p/n is KOSTAL 10010059 and use this to make adapter into 07P973702D for newer 03C 906 036 N injector. Another alternative is unpinning stock plugs and changing them to 1J0973722 harness side with 8D0973822 adapter side to 07P973702D injector side.

Depends on what is meant by trickle charger but assuming it means low amperage then it may take many hours to charge the battery to a decent level and many more to get it to full. In that photo I put up, bearing in mind it was a cold winter's day but I used the "winter" setting on the (4-amp) charger and the battery wasn't low by many car owner standards it took over 15 hours to get to full. Certainly no warning lights or messages and I would fully expect the stop/start to be active when it should but we normally switch it off as routine before driving. As I put if you can't get it to full in one session then get there in two sessions (or more). It might be that you have a speed sensor orother issue(s) and a low battery but charging the battery is very easy clean hands work where you're only involved with the car a few minutes at the start (after reading instructions for charger and car) and a few minutes at the end of the charge. Let us know how you get on and if you want more info or advice.

Hmm the stick flaps suggest the actuators. Relatively cheap and easy to replace. They may just be stuck but the actuators trying to move them. You can try pushing the flaps/ arms manually whilst operating the button to move them. They are on a worm gear so won’t Move manually if the actuator isn’t trying to move them too. Not sure on the ecu fault.

Sounds like a typical broken wire where the body meets the tailgate. So check the wiring harness inside the rubber grommet.

A 'Stop-Start battery IS the main battery - it is simply an improved design and materials over standard, lead-acid batteries to allow for the added stresses of repeated start cycles. There are two types of stop-start batteries - EFB or AGM - yours is more likely to be EFB, but check first.

Thank you for this. I have access to a trickle charger through work so no harm in trying this. Someone I spoke with from the garage (not paid for) said it could be a ‘start/stop’ battery rather than the main battery. Is this likely, or does it all root down to the main battery. Again I will try the main charging first and let you know. Thanks

I've never needed sanitisers (that I'm aware of) but I have seen other members posting about cleaning the a/c on various threads in varioius sections but sorry I don't remember what they put and used or even if they were sanitiser bombs (whatever these bombs might be). @D.FYLAKTOS is keen on fresh clean air to his car perhaps he knows(?).

Hi, welcome. Plenty of owners have reduced the size of the wheels, and of the tyres are important for ride comfort. There is real world advice and information from owners and others in the Karoq section of the site and for this subject also the'Tyres and Wheels' forum may be worth a look and there are many other sections of the site and threads and posts for other information. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/ Hope that helps.

Not a lot of contact area there, try onto the body of the cable ferule, where the insulation meets the socket. Is the stamped part of the L-shaped metal bracket painted? If not, use that.

Yes i did

Hi, i think that you need to use USB C OTG adapter instead,

Check that the rubber seals aren't sticking to the hatch - my Mk3 trunk sometimes sticks shut in hot weather, when it does this, it feels like it hasn't unlocked but a heaver pull breaks the seal. Try a rubber seal conditioner like Gummi Pflege (cannot swear on spelling for second word) Other seal conditioners are available.

Micky 32 don't go too strictly on figures alone, especially from battery tester Mystic Meg type life predictioins. As always with 100% (full) you have to ask 100% of what, in this case it might be 100% of available in battery or 100% charger satifaction perhaps . Like you've put the voltage figures are good but they don't, like my memory, retain as much as they previously did. That's why on a suspect battery you do further checks/tests. Repeatedly starting the car's engine whilst taking voltage readings can be a good real world indicator of the battery condition on the car the battery as fitted with all the usual drains from the car. Yes I would expect my 4-amp charger maintainer to take many hours to get from 80 to 100% when charging it on the car but (without any real checks) to me our battery seems fine and I expect it coulkd last many more years of useful service with us and how we use and maintain things (and I do the very minimum maintence on the car as I can). The Ring charger maintainer I use won't get to full ("FUL") on a battery not capable of it from the way the Ring is set up (and I believe it may accept to charge a battery as low 2v in charge). I'm not a fan of these (expensive) CTEKs though others say they're great and I know people that own them I just don't have the confidence in them as my mate had two of them identical and they gave different stage of lights when tersted on the same battery, perhaps a rare one off case but at the cost and my limited experience that puts me off, they seem more suited to the type of people that like Audis and that certainly ain't me but as always each to their own. If you have an EFB battery you can often check it's 'water' (electrolyte) level in each of the 6 cells to make sure they are at correct levels and also see a bit the condition of the plates which will give you an idea of any damage of furred upiness reducing performance and make a decision about whether to replace that batterry. Check again after fully, or as far as it gets charging. How many hours after the charging had finished, was it directly to the battery terminal posts alone not the post clamps. Up to you, if you believe your tester replace the battery now. Would 530 amps start your car in the coldest bit of winter with whatever electrics and electronics you and your car's computers run at those times, would you still have 530 amps available at that time anyway, how much lower could that figure go and still start your car and the battery still successfully run all the electruics and electronics you and the car's computers want at those times. Doctor Google sez 530 is 75.71% of 700 if that helps. As I can no longer do even the very simple maths I was once capablke of I don't bother too much with all the figures and maths and anyway it's not all as strictgly straighnt forward as some of the simple maths, I prefer prevention and that sdaves what's left of my feeble brain for more importasnt matters than farting about with cars u nnecessarily. I've had decades of attendig to use/abuse/neglected batteries on some of my neighbours' cars and I often had to take the batteries out of the cars, where possiblle check each cell, and start with using my 30+ year old "dumb" (like me) charger with its needle guage and misaligned numbers and within minutes I'd roughly know how longer the chargiung might take and swap over to my 20+ year old "smartish" (I can't remember what they were called then, marketuing terms change over years) and then as it only has one light that no longer seems to change colour (unless turned off-n-on-agen) I mght finish with the Ring "smart" charger just to confirm "FUL" or not. Wow, another long un, could cure insomnia.

Oulton Park Yesterday, a mate was racing. Weather wasn’t so good.

Oh me I better double check thanks

^^^ With genuine, all-weather 300+ mile range.

Thank you for your reply. We'll take a look.

Now installed. Forgot to get a “before” picture of the back! Before: After:

Hello there. Freshly downloaded. Take a piece if you need ;) https://1drv.ms/f/c/d868f7f8e8ece8e8/Eh7N58_7gyZCtogSIt8kgisB4ZszuIGLrZTSSsdabNOtZw?e=5mWfuG

A dealer tech on one of the FB groups has the opinion that meddling with the setup is potentially more damaging than leaving it alone. Of course if it's done completely by the book with the correct parts & tools, that shouldn't be the case, but... He also reckons he's never seen an instance of a petrol Karoq with a snapped belt.

Took the green one out today after a quick blast with the pressure washer.

I had all written down beforehand. Upon first upload I saw posts can be edit so I assumed it can be left and worked on further. Lately I've been digging some more but what I found isn't all that crucial. Maybe fact that cylinder head have two numbers, one for raw cast and other (sticker I think) for final setup with valves. For now I'll leave it as is.

I see mods have done some cleaning since I saw this before on the new content feed… can I offer a tip? Next time there’s a huge data dump coming that needs to be edited a lot - Do it up as a word doc so you can take your time and put it all together and change as needed. Then copy paste or just upload it as an attachment

On Blakey Ridge today.

Did you connect it behind the screen? Yes the cable fits in the space behind the screen. How was connecting? It was just unplugging the existing cable, fit the new one in and connect the original cable back in to the new. There’s a lever catch to lock/release it in place. The camera cable requires a firm push. Was it easy to take the screen out? The removal tools were included, download the Skoda communication repair guide for step by step instructions and diagrams. See https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/485397-scala-workshop-manuals/ Why is the glove compartment open what did you do there? I fed the cable from the centre, behind the screen, behind the glove compartment and up the passenger window screen pillar. How did you feed the cable from the back to the front? Just need to push the cable under the fabric of the window screen pillars and over the top of the doors. Check out guides for installing dashcams and see how they route the wires. How did you expose the back to get to where you connected the camera? See the Skoda interior repair guide for diagrams and instructions to remove the boot panel. See https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/485397-scala-workshop-manuals/ Was it plug and play? Yep, no programming was needed, this kit simply worked out of the box. Other kits or using original OEM / Skoda equipment may be different. Did you have any issues after installing? Since installing there has only been a couple of times where it has said “Camera Unavailable” but after leaving reverse gear and going back it works again. Did you have a guide? Any videos? The Skoda manuals help a lot with the removal of the entertainment system and boot panel. I also read the following post for some tips https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/485897-how-to-reverse-camera-fitting-guide/ Hope this helps, it took me several hours to install, at one point I m took a break as I couldn’t remove the clips on the existing boot handle, I managed to eventually remove it later on after a lot of frustration. At the beginning I tested it all worked before routing the cable through the car. Just remember to close the boot as the camera is disabled if the boot is open.

How about a nicer background?

@Warrior193 3rd time there with dogs and the other cars are parked all days. So doors can be opened and then i am away. No point me in a bay if someone parks next to me and i could not get back in the car. Only the EV charging bays are wide.