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Duly noted. 👍

What infotainment system do you have, and does it have a NAV button? That card is for a MIB2 Amundsen and isn't suitable if you have a Columbus. Might be an idea to post the part number of your system.

My wife's Fabia, same tyres gained tread depth between two subsequent ticksheets and the non-existent spare tyre often had a reported tread depth. 😄

Insurance should surely cover it?

I did indeed: Asked them to look after my alloys due to the recent-ish refurb, which they did 👍 But because they were paying attention, they reminded me that one wheel has a buckle 😢 That'll be from the pothole I clumped back in 2023 😡 Gaz PS: Interestingly, I got a subsequent email from them with a 'Vehicle Health Check' attached. I specifically unchecked the VHC box at the time of ordering, as I didn't want one. A couple of odd points on it though: Firstly, the NSR tyre has an 0524 date code. The last new tyre it had was in November 2023! Fickle thing this ol' space-time continuum 🙄 And it's the same for the Spare. It's a 2018 GTI, which I've had since new. The spare's never been out of the car, but it's apparently 3 years and 4 months old. Maybe it's getting younger..... maybe it's a girl, not a boy..... maybe I should call her Christine! 🤷‍♂️ G

Looks like there's been an OTA software update of some sort in the last couple of days. I noticed the behaviour of my ACC changed, and it started responding to the detected speed limits. Luckily, there's an option to turn that off (go into the Driver Assitance menu, go to ACC, and turn off Speed Limit Response) - the 'off' setting of which persists through a shutdown and restart. The main reason I pretty quickly turned off Travel Assist when I first got the car is that the speed limit data on the in-built mapping is so woefully bad, and so keen to override what the car is actually 'seeing' on roadside signage, that it's almost dangerous. Around my part of the UK, at least, the mapped speed limit data is dreadful - to the extent that, if Travel Assist had its way, there are locations where the car would think a limit had dropped from 60 to 40, or 50 to 30 (or even 20) and would slam the anchors on in response even though the actual limit was nowhere near what the map data thinks it is. Borderline dangerous, if someone's driving too close behind.

& the TPMS can be triggered not only by a reduced circumference of a tyre, it can be increased because of a binding brake or bearing on it's way out.

A384H blade (Bosch part no. 33970160F2) fitted to rear wiper - sweeps the window perfectly. Parts In Motion are advising incorrectly on their website - they say the A335H is the right blade (it has the right fitting, but is shorter than the replacement) ; and they advise that the A384H is not the correct part (Bosch say otherwise, and it works perfectly when fitted). I've asked them to initiate a return for the A335H, with them paying the postage seeing as it was bought based on incorrect advice given by them...

My car has the same 1.4 engine. Yours sounds normal to me, given the limitations of video etc. It is most important to use high quality oil and change it (and the filter) often, as any reduction to the oil supply to the timing chain can cause premature wear. You might hear a brief (one or two seconds) rattle from the chain upon start up, especially if the car hasn't been used for a day or two. This seems to be a normal characteristic, I assume it's because oil gradually drains from the oil damper which is part of the chain tensioner spring assembly.

Hi, I’ve had a very good read of all of them hence having to create my own post unfortunately.

Hello gentlemen, where do you get the software for unlocking Smart Link? Are there any websites with procedures? Thanks 🫡

Yes, it’s the same down here, however these are generally accident repair centers used by all brands/locations across a dealer group. AFAIK they’re generally not used for minor repairs - that’s up to smart repairers/PDR/etc. I know that BMW has approved people that work… with… the dealership to provide services under their umbrella, but I don’t think they’re actually employees.

Yes, by a mobile smart repair guy, as I said. Škoda don’t do paintwork, bodywork, glass, etc. Same as anywhere else - they’ll get a local guy in a van round to do it. As above though, it’s still the dealers problem.

Yes mate They work on hybrids but not not necessarily the gearboxes as specialist tools required

Is there no place in your local that does a 'Custom exhaust'? Who did the Stage 2 map on it? You have several Tuners around the Cambridge area, why not discuss with one with a good reputation locally and see what they suggest for the exhaust. & A place with a Dyno.

Found the Facebook pages.

Appreciate @Jack25 will try soon. regards

The touch up was done by the Skoda dealership at their location.

Not sure? It's in the grounds of Calke Abbey - had wondered if it might be an ice house?

Thank you everyone. I do book in for a 'proper' service annually. The receptionist always says we don't do Skoda and then I say but you have done this Skoda previously. She then books it in!!! I could understand if it was a different dealership, but it's the same Company! I am going to ignore them as I believe they really do have the diagnostics if push comes to shove!

@deryanmoj did you find a home for that connecter, did reconnecting it clear the faults?

I suspect that the car was crashed and the airbag deployed, however the fault 01044 in the gateway is because there is an error in the installation list (is a list where you select the oprional according to the car equipment), for example in the video you can see the gateway installation list. The problem is that if the airbag really deployed (according to the fault it could be) is that to allign the new airbag module you will need odis to code it and pair it to all the car module involved

I got this tip from an AA man, operate the windows up and down but hold the button for a few seconds when you go up and down and the window is fully open or shut, it seems to reset them.

I think its a great car, just this coding issue with aftermarket tow bars lets it down. I spoke to my local dealer this week and he said the reason VW group have locked down the coding from externals is that in the past someone could plug into your tow bar electrics say when you were in a car park and hack the car and then steal it. Not sure on any reports of this actually happening?? I have booked mine in with Skoda to take out my aftermarket tow bar which I bought from TowbarExpress.co.uk and fit a genuine one. Just a little over £2k for the pleasure which is crazy when the aftermarket one already cost me £800 😭. Not booked in until July and I have three trips with the caravan of over 300 miles, so hoping the PPP alarm doesn't go off too much. More annoying and you look like a pillock driving with your hazards on. I'll report how it is when I get the genuine one fitted as I have a couple of other 300+ mile trips soon after.

Thanks to everyone for raising this issue. If I'd known about it I definitely wouldn't have bought the car. I discovered the problem yesterday on my first towing holiday, so you can imagine how traumatic it was driving 200 miles with repeated alarms and not knowing the cause. I've complained to Skoda UK and awaiting reply; the towbar installer is also investigating. However the local Skoda dealer was not helpful, only saying I'd have to pay for a diagnostic! If all else fails then I will try charge back or Which legal. I'll update on any news

I think you're right. Looking back a page, I had the CC2's fitted in September 2021, two of which were still on the car. So 0921 is the latest possible date code any of them could have 🙄 Could explain why I got a health check I didn't ask for. I don't like the Dallas wheels at all. Those on my car are Milton Keynes. Gaz

As a last option, yes. I don’t know what a heated screen with ADAS calibration costs, but I’m guessing it’s more than £50. It won’t have seen a paint booth - will have been a mobile repair guy with touch up paint, a DA and some wet and dry. You say the wing - same side as the crack? Maybe the screen was leaned on while working?

Evening all, I’m back after owning a 2016 superb petrol back in 2017 ish. Anyway, since Covid and getting a large mortgage, I’ve recently bought a 2010 Octavia 1.4 tsi elegance. It needs a bit of a tidy up, but I love the colour and the drive of the car. It’s done 89k and been very well looked after!

To be honest, it all depends on your usage. We’ve had everything from a 3.2 and a 4.0, to a 1.0 and a 1.4. The current cars are 1.0, 1.5 and 2.0 - all do different things and all are equally happy going around town, or sitting on the motorway. That said, power and capacity are a strange thing with regard to power curves. My first car was a 1.0 Focus which we had concurrently with a 1.4 A3. Despite only having 15bhp or so more, the Audi felt so much… I was going to say faster… so much less slow! That 1.0 110ps was simply not enough for a car that size. Fast forward to the subsequent 1.4 150ps Leon, and that thing was a rocket ship! Sometimes power curves and the like are more important than raw figures or capacity.

Maybe it’s not from your car? Certainly, it’s had a NSF and OSR replaced at the same time (well, the odds of having the same batch…), and then different visits for the OSF and NSR - very, very random. Still, it’s probably from an MQB car - just look at that rear alignment! Those Dallas wheels were never my favourite - I looked at a 2020 GTI with them, and they were absolutely knackered! If I got the car, I’d have put some Pretorias on there. Come to think of it, I might put some Pretorias on my vRS… same thing anyway, just with a larger arse. I don’t regret the choice, or a Cupra, but when pushing on hard I do sometimes wonder what life would be like if I’d gone team stiff suspension and not team sensible.

And the Gold Medal goes to.......

According to the Skoda UK warranty terms & conditions the windscreen is covered for the first month or 600 miles from date of first registration (whichever comes first), https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/190724ab-ac7d-4c6b-943a-c80462816d1c

i used to deliver flowers for intaflora in a bedford rascal van ,suzuki 1000cc as i remember . brilliant vans , no air bags and sat right at the crash zone when driving lol . love em .

The mileage estimate is always going to be an approximation. It starts off based on your previous journeys, but then gets updated as you drive based on current conditions. It is useful to look at the miles per kWh figure and how that compares to the longer term average. Different traffic conditions or air temperatures can all impact it. On the way to Cornwall last week, I only managed 3 miles per kWh on the first 2/3 of the journey, probably because it was only 2 or 3 degrees outside, compared to the return journey where I got 3.9 miles per kWh on the same stretch with warmer temperatures and slower traffic. It would be useful to see the SoC on the battery in kWh rather than percentage because you could do the range calculations as you sit in the M5/M6 junction traffic jam!

I'm going to try this and hope it will fix the problem. Thank you! The only issue I see with this is that we wont be able to do a hard reset anymore. I usually control the volume on steering wheel too.

Hi everyone, I just wanted to thank the user omeromeryigit. Their solution of disconnecting the touch power button and the volume bar was the definitive one. After searching all over the internet and insisting at the official dealership, the only apparent solution was to replace the screen with a new one. 1500 euros and several weeks with the vehicle out of commission waiting for the new screen to arrive. Thanks to this thread and omeromeryigit's suggestion, I dared to remove the screen and disconnect the touch power button. Amazingly, despite my fears, it was all very easy and quick to do. Now everything works correctly (except for the aforementioned power button - I wasn't using it - and the touch volume bar - I control it from the steering wheel). I saved 1500 euros and everything was solved in just 30 minutes. Go for it!

No, it turn out what I thought was drive mode selection was the different modes of the adaptive cruise control.

As far I know you cannot do anything yourself and I strongly suggest that you wait until 26 May and check then whether or not your car's system is working correctly. It's not like the MySkoda app failing to sync impacts on your car's operation - it's just irritating that you have a 'free' capability (of generally limited value for a Fabia) that doesn't currently work properly. Shortly after purchasing my Fabia I accidentally reset its system when messing about in the depths of its infotainment-unit's menus. I eventually managed to recover the system, but it was a salutary lesson that I do NOT want to repeat. (Incidentally, MySkoda is still working OK on my Fabia...)

I’ve got the same thing going on, bubbling up around the edges of the rubber seal. I’d be amazed if Skoda uk would honour the corrosion warranty, I’m at some point going to speak to a local body shop to get advice on repair and their opinion as to what’s caused it.

Would be interested if you had any success with the warrenty, taking mine into the dealer next week for the same issue

If you’re losing coolant via a failed heater matrix, your car will be wet inside. Best lift the carpets and check the front footwells for coolant. There might be an associated sweet smell (of the coolant) as well. I’m struggling to see a link between a sealed liquid circuit and switching a blower fan on. Others will know better than me. If it’s getting blown out through your expansion tank getting pressurised, it might be time for a sniff test and other investigations to confirm the integrity of your head gasket. Gaz

Your insurer would probbly be doing the same with the Merc driver, there's only really four big insurers and the system is now very elaborate with some inter-company revenue and profits created where none used to exist. Bear in mind even if you have protected No Claims Bonus next year's (and following years) premiums will rise. At least it's sorted and no one was hurt, only bits of German plastics and metals. Life goes ons, here's to happier days.

What engine do you have? From my experience on a 2.0tdi, I would assume it would be similar for the 1.6tdi the service is not too bad. Oil service is probably the most labour intensive, you need a T25 to remove 7 screws 3 on drivers side, 3 on passenger side and 1 in the center of the front bumper and a T40 to remove 3 bolts under the firewall area, then you need a flat head to push out the under tray. A 19mm holds the sump in place. You need a 32mm to remove the oil filter housing between the sump and the gearbox. There's a 13mm drain plug but this can be easily rounded off as it's plastic, same for the oil filter housing Cabin filter can be a bit of a pain, use a flat head to pull off the side panel of the dash on the passenger side. Open the glove box and using a screw driver lift the damper via the passenger side opening, pull the glove box up and towards you at a 45ish degree angle. Using a small flat head screwdriver gently pry the tabs away these can break easily. Refitting the glove box is the hardest I find fitting the damper in place before locking the glove box is the most effective. Air filter you need a T25 I find the screwdriver in the boot kit is good for removing the 2 screws on the feeding pipe to the engine. Fuel filter is again a T25, using a small screwdriver to pry the housing apart is best as just pulling can cause diesel to go everywhere. To reset the service light press and hold the trip reset for 5 seconds, the trip will go to 0 and then when it returns to what it was turn the key keep holding the trip until it says reset oil service? Then release the trip and press it again it will say service reset, to do the major service repeat the process and hold the trip until it cycles to the reset service? Option That's my opinion on the general service people probably have their own suggestions.

Could this be covered by the 12 year corrosion warranty? The warranty covers rusting from the inside out' and it does appear to be rusting from inside the seal, not from the outside inwards. Might be worth asking your local dealer.

Attempt did not go well. Attempt did not go well. Ended the evening with the car stuck in a boot loop and then I gave up. Will try another SD card tomorrow and then maybe have a little cry.

We used to get the woodpeckers in our garden at the old house and did occasionally see a few here at the current one, until they built a 70 bed care home on the greenspace just up from us - which wiped out the majority of the local wildlife (bats, birds, badgers, foxes etc.)

Could be worse. The last courtesy car we had was a 2025 Corsa with a boot full of dog sh**. Nice!