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@Jim Reire No 8 speed DSG,s in Europe unless you count 7 forward and reverse. 1.5 or 1.4 FWD do not use the DQ200 7 speed twin dry clutch DSG, they get a 7 speed wet clutch DSG.

New (non dimming) mirror glass installed this evening. It doesn’t have the clip for the dimming wiring plug so I had to tuck it away. Initially it fouled the swivel movement so had to very carefully take the glass off again and tuck it away a bit neater. I also received the third attempt at buying a steering wheel with DSG. This time it was listed as for a karoq with part number 3V0419091AB. It is completely identical to my current wheel but with the addition of DSG paddles. No idea what makes it different from 3V0419091S and 3V0419091M as they look the same too. But those ones are listed as for a superb and tend to be significantly more expensive. It came with the usual wreckers grime but 5 minutes with some autoglym leather cleaner and a damp cloth and it looks good as new. Silky smooth with a nice matt finish. What was described as a scuff on the wheel in the eBay listing turned out to be grime so that was a bonus. The vehicle it came from had only done 38,000 miles so I’ve ended up with a steering wheel significantly newer and in better condition than my old one too! The addition of some alloy DSG extension paddles completes the look. (Thanks again @JR RS for the link!) Will I use them? Probably not. Do I love them? Most definitely.

Missus mac is on her second auto Arona. It’s not a bad car for what it is. I just wish manufacturers would get off the “compact SUV” bandwagon. It isn’t really any bigger than a focus, just a bit puffier on the outside.

You should get back in contact with your seller in China, then https://www.ross-tech.com/ - to complain.🙂

Well... Based on previous experience bugger all... Except the pride In knowing you guessed correctly. 😉 If you're lucky I'll post a picture of it tomorrow as a reward.

It should indeed. VIN gives the PR codes list and then the requested information.

I stopped mine slamming on as i reversed through my gates by doing it slower. Sensors still scream that it's too close.

I've gone for the white with winter pack, charging pack and spare wheel Will put pictures up when it arrives

Here's a part numbers chart I've been working on. It's not all verified but should give you a good overview. skoda_superb_mk3_suspension_v1.html

I last used Rainworth (when they were named Bickertons) at Hillsborough about 7 years ago when I had a service plan and wouldn't bother with them again. I use an independent at the back of Meadowhall named Auto Tecnic and they have looked after three of my cars for about 16 years now. I wouldn't go anywhere else.

Welcome. The car has a max revenue weight (max gross vehicle weight). Loaded to that it should not be dragging its bum. But i see your point. Suspension can get tired.

Probably, it will work.

A 2L engine is fine unless you care a lot about fuel economy and do a lot of driving in traffic. If long-distance trips are your main focus, then 2L engines are the best choice. But if heavy traffic trips are common for you, I think you should go with the 1.5 engine. I used to drive a 1.5 Tiguan and now driving a 2.0 Superb. I find both to be good engines.

Would the VIN number help you?

Slightly deeper colour last night......

Fixed with just a valve replacement not the sensor and better than mates rates, done for free gratis. Larry.

If its black smoke its normally lack of air or too much diesel/bad injector/bad injector pattern. When was the airfilter changed last plus it might be worth getting it scanned with vcds in case there's a random fault code stored. You could try changing air filter and run some injector cleaner plus a tank of supreme diesel through it to see if it improves. Alasdair

I have had an ongoing problem for 2 years with my 2018 Kodiaq .2.0l TSI battery losing charge over a few days and the battery charging randomly at different charge rates. To date I have had: 2 replacement batteries (at my cost) then under Extended Warranty (now expired) 1 replacement negative battery lead (with sensor) 1 replacement alternator Symptoms (monitored with Ancel Battery Manager device and multimeter) Battery discharges in a few hours from 100% SoC /12.8v to around 65% then continues slowly after that over several days Charging when driving starts at 14.3v but even when battery is low quickly drops and does not get to full charge even after half an hour of driving Static current too high warning now showing on ODBII monitor but dealer had the car for a week and did not find any fault Also shows "DAB aerial short circuit to earth" warning I need to gather more evidence to persuade dealer to pursue. All suggestion welcome! A friend has a new Kodiaq VRS petrol with identical symptoms. Is this a known issue?

It sounds as if you may have a parasitic drain issue, is your infotainment system original? Can be a bit of a lengthy process of elimination to find which module is not going into sleep mode. The voltage variation you mention is normal - the smart alternator is designed to do this to allow for energy recuperation under deceleration and/or braking.

Interesting or maybe not? When I had the shock absorbers changed to Koni Special Actives 7 weeks ago, I got the garage to swap the wheels around front to back & vica-versa. Previous to this the slow puncture in the front left hand tyre would trigger the dashboard warning every 10-14 days. This wheel got moved to the rear LHS and it is only now after 7 weeks that the tyre has become sufficiently deflated to trigger the warning again. Just shows how much harder front tyres work on front wheel drive cars than do rear tyres. As I'll be replacing all 4 tyres next spring, I'm now thinking I might get away without getting that slow puncture repaired - pumping up the tyre and resetting the TPMS every 7 weeks is no real hardship.

Thank you, Ords - that looks like it might be very useful ! If it enables me to change the filter, I will make a video of my own and post it on here, so that other owners of my model may get the benefit.

I use Bluetooth and not Carplay and don't have a problem. I also use the iphone for navigation and the spoken instructions come through the car's speakers.

If the ADAS camera is mounted in the mirror frame it will almost certainly require recalibration.

@lol-lol Don't forget that this country is known as Rip-Off Britain; that tells you all you need to know about how you get from less than 1p per kWh to 25p a kWh. As for the rest about the gas prices, I think you are underestimating the authorities.

Yes will replace with cheap For now and keep An eye out for a cheaper one. Was considering adding bsd but will probably add the one in the mirror cap.

Very odd not to mention annoying 😡

Thanks. Looks like you did reasonably well out of the good will gesture. No sign of it for my situation yet 🙏

This is for a 1.4l, but might be of help to you.

A Dealership or Skoda Ireland should act like professionals and help someone that has a Skoda Vehicle and might buy another or might not on how Customer Service. Is. It is not Skoda Secret Service other than when there are Recalls, Sworkshop Actions, Software Updates etc.

That looks pretty good, looks OEM. Also how did you fixed those S U P E R B in the lower grill? That also a neat and different.

@Jim Reire: IMHO, your local dealer should be able to print the complete liste of PR codes independently from your registration docs. Mine was imported from Luxemburg to France through Germany. I didn't have any problem to get it, even though my final french registration docs were not done.

In general, at least my experience of dealing with VW Group parts departments, they will not accept your request to order in something that was not fitted originally to your car - probably to protect themselves and the brand from any issues that might arise. So, to avoid getting into that situation, I've always done my own "due diligence" and just asked them to order in from the part number that I've supplied without handing over any vehicle info, I've always known that if the part that I've got them to order in was not suitable then it was my fault and so I'd not be able to return it for some refund. Once I ordered in a pair of new TREs for my wife's 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V part numbers sourced from a knock off copy of EKTA found on ebay - just a pity I didn't check the suitability of the parts selected - they were for a non-Powered Steering model, I did get a small amount of money back after handling charges, I only made that mistake once!

I use Waze on my Android phone. The constant traffic update and route adjustments is much easier for me than a built in system.Magnetic Yosh mounts fitting to a centre vent.

Charging at home is AC charging & to 100% is not going to be an issue with degradation of the battery.

The claim: We're moving to LED because they will outlast the vehicle. The reality: Well they would if we didn't install the cheapest, lowest quality garbage we can get our hands on, to hopefully limp through the warranty period...

Hello, after reading this thread, I decided to share the information I’ve gathered so far. I started experiencing the same symptoms as others described here: randomly increasing volume, key press sounds, unexpected screen restarts, and the display overheating. These issues occurred occasionally, mostly when using Android Auto: Waze, Spotify, etc. Updating the software from version 1896 to 1941 seemed to worked for a while. However, after about two weeks, all the symptoms returned, and the infotainment system began to restart endlessly. The restarts persisted even when the car was turned off and locked, throughout the night, and by morning, the car's battery was drained, I couldn't start the engine and had to jump-start it. Then, the infotainment restarts continued. The next morning, I couldn’t even unlock the car wirelessly due to a completely dead battery. At that point, I decided to contact my local Škoda dealer to report the issue. The person I spoke to said they had never seen such problems before and suggested I bring the car in for diagnostics. Since my car is no longer under warranty, and given the dealer’s attitude, I suspected they would charge me for every service. So, I decided to replace the display unit myself. I purchased a used display unit (5E3 919 605, HW version H49) from Poland for €180. Following the workshop manual, I disassembled the decorative trim and removed the top screw covers. Then pulled fuses 30 (infotainment) and 46 (infotainment display), swapped the displays, reconnected the fuses, and boom, everything worked like a charm! I've been driving occasionally for a week now, and so far, no problems have reappeared. My key takeaways:Replacing the display unit can be a DIY job. No coding needed and no component protection warning. A higher hardware version of the display is compatible with the older infotainment unit. Specs:Model Year: 2020 Display unit: was H44, now H49 Infotainment: H56 Software: 1941

Well, until I receive the Registration docs back from the tax office, I wont be able to confirm the specs. But slowly, I'm gathering information..it seems that the AWD 4x4 Kodiaks, have the 8 speed gearbox, while the 7 seater, front wheel drive, use the the 7 speed gearbox... We will see, Thanks for your help, its appreciated! Best Regards, Jim.