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Hi from sunny, but chilly Taupo, New Zealand. Proud Mk3 Octavia Scout owner, first Škoda and loving it.

@Warrior193 Thanks for the suggestion, it worked perfectly. I ended using some picture hanging wire. There was an element of luck with it as the wire had a small sharp bend on the end where it had been previously cut. As I lowered it down the gap it ended up getting caught, and wedged behind the lego. This allowed me to drag the lego up and out of the door.

Thanks, I looked around other forums and found links to same part as OP so ordered part and fitted it couple days ago. So far this seems to have completely fixed it Initially my car only came up fault very sporadically, maybe once in six months but last week it started coming up almost every 10-30 seconds so had gone beyond annoyance levels and I had concert to go to yesterday over two hours drive away so not sure my sanity would have survived journey if it hadn't worked Thanks again for responding, I really appreciate you taking time to read and reply to my query 🤗

Following on from the wiring diagrams thread, I also have a set of workshop manuals downloaded from ErWin before it was closed down for personal use. Here's the link, hopefully they will be useful to someone! Link expired, files are attached below! FP

Dear RR-Vliet, thank you for the quick reply and update, without your inital post, this project would not have happened! Swapping to a shorter gearset is a very good idea and the long 5th and 6th gears also bother me. I am very excited about your upcoming dyno results - if you encounter any hardware specific problems, please share them here so others (like me :) ) can use them for their remapping. I will also definitely share my results once the car is remapped again around start of august. A downpipe is also next on my to do list, but the ege german legal ones are like 1600 Euros...if you have a cheaper source, please let us know. To your 230 hp question: Assuming a volumetric effiency of 0.9 and around 50 mbar pressure loss through throttle&intercooler, the turbo needs to support a MAF of 23 to 25 lb/min to achieve 230 hp. Also, we would need to push around 2.1 bar relative to achieve this target. From the compressor wheel side of things, the kia stinger 3.3TT is known to achieve 1.75 bar remapped, however the engine bank swallows much more air with 1.6 L per bank. The closest turbo i could find in terms of spec is the Garrett G25-550 48mm, based on the compressor map, it supports a pressure ratio of ~3.5 at 24 lb/min with similar full blade design -> Doable From the turbine wheel side of things, i doubt we can push 25-26 lb/min (air+fuel) of exhaust mass flow through the tiny turbine (no matter 8 or 11 blade), EGT and EMAP will be sky high. The Garrett G25-550 with the lowest A/R housing (0.49) can flow a max of 16 lb/min at our target pressure ratio of 3.1 -> Doubt Realistically - purely based on my opinion, so take it with a grain of salt - the turbo can support around 190-200 hp. Probably the following changes are necessary to increase that value: -Higher A/R turbine housing with clipped or further enlarged turbine -Better HPFP with 1.4 150 hp injectors -Upgraded conrods, to achieve 230 hp at the flywheel at lets say 7 krpm, the engine needs to put out 230 NM. At 4 krpm, over 400 NM! -Downpipe to lower EMAP (as you already did) -Lower compression, 10.5 is reaaaally high for 2.1 bar relative boost You can log wg dutycycle (87 % is basically fully open, 100-140% is only applied to force it shut during low rpm acceleration), EGT and IAT to see if there is room left for more power. I will also do that once the remap is complete and share the data logs here. Stay safe

yes, Eibach Pro Kodiaq kit E10-79-013-03-22 includes springs F11-85-043-03-FA and F11-79-013-01-RA

Had seized piston calipers so all sorted now

Well I'll give it a shot. 5 years / 70k miles in EVs, mainly VAG products. This is a fallacy in general as you point out. When driving in urban stop/start EVs will often perform better than comparable ICE in terms of efficiency, due mainly to the regen from constant braking but on the open road not so much. This is another pro in the urban EV argument. For me, 50mph in my ID.3 will give around 4.8 miles / kWh. In my previous ID.4 this would have been 4.1 for the reasons you give (weight & frontal area). Note the most recent ID.4 models have a more efficient motor than mine did and will give better economy.On the motorway I cruise at 65mph and get 4.2 from the ID.3 and 3.8 from the old ID.4. Yes in my experience you are. I use heavy regen for downhill sections like you would change down and use engine braking on ICE vehicles. Yes indeed. Many EVs have coast as default. VAG cars have an 'intelligent' drive mode where the car coasts for as long as possible then regens to slow you down for roundabouts etc. It relies on the sat-nav data to know about bends, junctions etc. and the ACC to look out for obstacles in front. Driving an EV economically is not witchcraft, but uses the same principles as you would in ICE. Speed above 60-65 really impacts consumption IME.

On Trustpilot EMaC has a 4-star rating from around 7,000 reviews — decent for the sector, though the negative reviews tend to cluster around cosmetic/warranty product claim disputes rather than the core service plans. Real-world user feedback on forums is broadly that the plans are a reasonable budgeting tool, sometimes with modest savings versus paying as you go and no interest charged, but that you're tied to the dealer network, there's a risk if your dealer loses its franchise, and cancellation fees can apply after 60 days.

Hello from germany, adding a datapoint for the people planning to go the hybrid route. I started from the original 1.2 TSI turbocharger, OEM number 04E145713Q, the CYVB engine hardware is stock, 205 kkm. I was heavily inspired by the post from RR-Vliet (October 2025). I decided to directly contact the company who modified RR-Vliets turbo: Perun Turbo in poland (ul. Kwietniowa 8, 05-090 Wypędy). Very pleasant experience, sent my turbo via mail from Germany, they modified it and sent it back. Took about one month from first contact to turbo in my hands and about 560 Euro including shipping. Axial and radial bushings were replaced, they even sent the old parts and balancing protocol. Main reasons for me to favour the hybrid turbo over a stock 1.4 TSI turbo: The turbine housing, wastegate diameter and actuator stays stock -> The smaller A/R compared to 1.4 TSI turbine casings retains exhaust gas velocity and makes boost control easier from a mapping point of view (dutycycle, exhaust mass flow tables, etc.). Technical details: Compressor wheel Stock Upgraded turbo Wheel type 6+6 Splitter 8 Full blade Inducer diameter 27 mm 36 mm Exducer diameter 36 mm 47 mm The compressor wheel is from a Kia Stinger 3.3TT (3.2 V6 twinturbo, designed for 1.6 L of displacement for each turbo), type Honeywell resp. Garrett 844076-8. Turbine wheel Stock Upgraded turbo Wheel type 10 Blade, radial flow 8 Blade, mixed flow Inducer diameter 31 mm 39.2 mm Exducer diameter 27 mm 27 mm The turbine wheel is from a VAG 1.4 TSI 140/150 hp model. The turbocharger now carries the designation “M-15495” in case anyone wants a similar mod from Perun Turbo. Based on flow estimations and wheel rpm, the new turbo is good for about 1.6 bar - 1.7 bar. However, there are some key differences to the “M-14042” model from RR-Vliet: · 8 Blade turbine instead of 11 Blade turbine: Better exhaust flow due to mixed flow turbine with less turbine blades (same blade angle), does not choke easily at high rpm · Full blade compressor wheel, which helps to close the large turbo lag compared to a splitter blade design. In terms of compressor wheel upgrades, the step from 36 mm to 47 mm is huge - the compressor wheel is now larger than a OEM IHI IS12 turbo used in VAG 1.8 TSI engines. This induces tons of lag due to the polar moment of inertia. Some word about the various turbine sizes and designs used in the VAG EA211 1.2 and 1.4 turbos, this helps to easily identify them in e.g. online listings and such: · 1.2 TSI (90/105/110 HP): 10 Blade turbine wheel, radial flow · 1.4 TSI 122 HP: 11 Blade turbine wheel, radial flow · 1.4 TSI 140/150 HP: 8 Blade turbine wheel, mixed flow With the help of a friend, we fitted the turbo in ca. 2 h of time. Some tips and OEM part numbers: · Gasket set: 04E253039D · Oil return line (generally can be used again but replace gaskets, included in 04E253039D): 04E145735C · Oil feed line (absolutely replace): 04E145140AS (buy the AS-variant, this one keeps the oil line further away from hot engine parts compared to previous revisions) · Clean the exhaust port on the block with some fine grit sanding paper so the metal gasket has a clean surface to sit on · Remove two bolts on the catalytic converter so it can be pushed to the side and makes mounting the exhaust clamp much easier · Even when you drain the oil, there will still be about 100 ml in the feed and return line. Be prepared to clean the engine block with some brake cleaner afterwards as it makes quite some mess. Top off the coolant with some G13 afterwards. · Better use a pit or lift, your back will thank you · Fill the oil port with fresh oil or better some MoS2 turbo additive and spin the compressor wheel a few times, saves the radial bushings upon “dry” startup We did not calibrate the wastegate actuator via VCDS and the engine seemed fine without, no error codes or limp mode. This probably only works if the turbo wg is properly adjusted beforehand. Some impressions from the first drive: · Typical “big turbo setup”-feeling: Engine feels n/a below 2800 rpm, above the turbo pulls like a freight train all the way to the redline. As a side effect, this helped me to safe fuel on my commute as there is barely any time spent on boost. · Driving off boost is enhanced to better exhaust flow with increased throttle response · IAT is lower, as the compressor is now much more efficiently, as a side note: The wg is pushed open further compared to stock, lowering EMAP and EGT. · Remap is planned in 1 month, but as RR-Vliet already mentioned: Be careful, the big compressor wheel saves you from a quick boost buildup, but take it slow and cap boost pressure below 3 krpm. Otherwise, the turbo surges anyway as the small 1.2 cannot ingest the air mass (Surge line of this hybrid is at ca. 6-7 lb/min in efficiency island), the risk of LSPI increases exponentially and the conrods may see some sunshine. There are currently no x or h-shaft conrods for this engine ☹ Stay safe

Skoda parts list two superseding part numbers, with latest being suffix-T by the looks of it: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5ta839015t-door-lock-rear-left-skoda-44668.html

I would not let them fire the parts cannon while you are paying. Get a fixed price for a guaranteed fix.

Hi, no need to apologise for thread resurrection! Yes, my car has the raised suspension and DCC.

The update went smoothly😎

I had Xenon on the previous SII and retrofitted the HBA camera and the light as you say was good, but matrix LED in most scenarios is so much better. It would be nice if Skoda did sort the beam escaping into oncoming traffic on motorways.

Its only very occasionally intermittently showing on this L+K so hardly a priority but great info sharing on the problem, I will go down this route with ordering + video if it becomes more glitchy.

All this discussion makes me think yet again that there was nothing wrong with z-beam projectors convertible to flat-beam for driving abroad. For many years, this was standard Hella projector headlamp setup on most Mk1 and Mk2 Skodas (Octavia, Superb, Roomster). Frankly, in HID variant (or after upgrade halogen to HID, quite safe in a projector lamp), road illumination was good enough in any conditions when left on flat beam at all times, also in the UK. I'm speaking from 400k+ miles of experience of mostly night driving, including lots of high speed autobahn driving. But yet again, newer and bling is the enemy of good enough...

Was the charge air system pressurized with pressure and mist and then tested for leaks after 2-4 hours?

Its a non concern from what I've seen Got this on the L+K myself There is a fix kit you can apply Its not a break thing, just an annoyance pretty sure ? As it doesn't cause any change of gear or anything. My scan was B116229 - Selector lever park position lock switch implausible signal Intermittent Some nice Irish dude talks through the entire fix https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iwLVR5WvWfk

Think the only way is to either get dealer to do diagnostic or maybe get it scanned at a decent independent garage with vcds Sounds like something has failed Could be the compressor or sensors etc but without a scan its guess work Alasdair

I should have added that the failed sensor also caused oil temp issues, in that it ran the oil temp 20c cooler than it should have been and I noticed it also caused the battery charging state to run low as well.

Spotted this mischievous little bugger in the garden earlier. He's been getting in the bird feeders and emptying them for a free for all on the ground. Hardly even flinched when I caught him 😂

Found this absolute nugget of data by accident: 2026 SDSs for lots of suppliers For anyone not familiar, Section 3 has the key active (aka dangerous) ingredients, Section 9 has the properties such as pH, look, scent, boiling point etc

Yeah, I like that about the new Superb myself. Not often my infotainment has played up thankfully (touch wood) but it's still a faff on having your climate controls buried in there. Always gets me how they changed the law in the UK to ban using hand held devices whilst driving, rightfully so, but simultaneously made all of the controls for your vehicle part of your touchscreen infotainment system! Crazy

Knobs on the A/C control like the Superb? Hope so.

And it’s a Hawk Stratos with an Alfa Romeo 3.0 V6, 220bhp, half the weight of the Superb and 345*35*15 rear tyres. Can’t launch over 5000rpm or it shreds the tyres…..

@Marci1229 just 2 weeks ago i have replaced speakers in my O4 and made sound deadening of the doors. Highly recommended. Difference is night and day. I went with Focal IS VW 165 speakers in the front and IS VW 155 in the back.

Adaptation is via VCDS, i didn't do it on mine and i've never had a problem. The low down torque may improve once its mapped, but i cant say yet unfortunately, looking at 2 months from now before we'll find out. There is still decent torque low down from the 1400rpm but it takes much longer for it to come in. I find 1800rpm is where it comes in more readily. Another thing i have noticed is i now get a nice slight induction noise when on boost between 2000-3000 rpm, its still there beyond that but the engine noise drowns that out a bit, i'll assume thatll get louder once it's mapped, and maybe a tad more still once i get a new intake hose made up