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A Dolomite Sprint, just around the corner from my house: Gaz

First of all, let me start by saying this was neither quick nor easy. My factory Canton subwoofer finally gave up, and my first thought was: “How hard can it be to replace a speaker?” Turns out… very hard. The OEM subwoofer is a 165 mm dual voice coil speaker with 2 x 8Ω impedance, which immediately limits your options. There simply aren’t many replacements available. After quite a bit of searching, I found what seemed to be the best match: Audio System CO 06 D8 EVO Loudspeaker DatabaseAudio System CO 06 D8 EVO - 6.5″ Subwoofer 2x8ΩFull technical parameters and comparison: Audio System CO06D8EVO 6.5″ Subwoofer 2x8Ω · Xmax 7mm · Resonance 59Hz · Power handling 240W · Sensitivity 80dBUnfortunately, Audio System told me they didn’t have any in stock. After emailing them, I found out the only remaining stock was in Poland. Luckily, I have a friend there who ordered it for me and then shipped it to Romania. If you don’t have Polish friends… well… you might be SOL. Eventually the speaker made its journey from Germany to Poland, Poland to Poland, then Poland to Romania. Then came the next challenge… Removing the enclosure Getting the subwoofer enclosure out of the boot on the sedan is an absolute pain. I practically had to dismantle half the rear of the car, including removing the rear seats. I don’t know if it’s easier on the Estate, but on the sedan it definitely wasn’t a fun job. The mounting problem Once the new speaker arrived, I discovered what many of you probably already know. The mounting holes don’t line up. While searching for solutions, I found this Reddit post from someone who had already done the swap: https://www.reddit.com/r/skoda/comments/1r0vhlb/superb_mk3_canton_subwoofer_update/ His solution works, but it’s a bit of a “make it fit” approach. Personally, I’m the kind of person who likes things to look professional (read it as I’m very particular about these things) whenever possible. So naturally I thought… “I’ll just design and 3D print an adapter.” I’d never opened Fusion 360 before. How hard could it be? …yeah. Thankfully ChatGPT walked me through the whole process step by step, and after a lot of trial and error I ended up with an adapter that fits both the enclosure and the new speaker. I’ll happily share the STL/Fusion files if anyone wants them. If you’re better at CAD than I am, feel free to improve the design. https://www.printables.com/model/1776566-skoda-superb-mk3-subwoofer-flange Gaskets and damping I also bought some EVA foam sheets to use as gaskets between the adapter and the enclosure. Since I had plenty left over, I lined parts of the inside of the enclosure as well. I can’t say exactly how much difference it makes, but it certainly can’t hurt. One final tweak The only thing I couldn’t confidently model before printing was the exact position of the new speaker mounting holes. So I simply drilled those by hand once I had the printed adapter fitted in place. Final thoughts Was it worth it? I’d say yes. It took far longer than I expected, but I’m pretty happy with how it turned out, and it looks much cleaner than simply forcing the speaker to fit. I’ll be installing it today or tomorrow, and I’ll update this thread once I’ve had a chance to listen to it. I’ll also attach some photos of the process and the finished adapter in case it helps someone else down the road. Later edit,... seriously? 25.76 kB for file attachments?!?

Thanks for that. This confirms what I found out this morning that these sensors have their own control module and don't require reset after installation.

So far so good for me, as for the infotainment, that’s only a hop and catch and not a regular occurrence, holding the on/off button down for about 10 seconds to reboot it usually solves the issue.

His has the pop-out style ones - I think it’s a 5dr, but could be a 3dr. Either way, they’re a bit crap and aren’t the best moisture barrier I’ve ever seen. Aside from that, no complaints. Skoda Citigo, VW Up! or SEAT Mii, all perfectly good little cars.

I'd change the whole thing given the age and mileage; components are going to start showing their age so you'll be saving hassle by replacing the arm which includes 2 bushes and the bottom ball joint. You'll find they're just as likely referred to as Lower Control Arms or LCAs. You can get the aluminium ones (pattern parts from Autodoc) but you have to be careful which model as per this post - Passat and Arteon are ok, Golf parts are not as they're too short so make sure it isn't that. I'd also consider changing both sides as it goes, for the same reason.

Pre facelift didn`t have this option at all. Facelift has, AFAIK.

I didn't - I just got the closest part number I could then used my cheap eBay VAG scan tool to clear the fault after fitting. The fault hasn't recurred and there are no obvious symptoms of a fault.

135/80R17 has a bigger outside diameter than 125/70R18. However, 135/80R18 will be an even closer match to the Karoq tyre sizes. 135/80R18 could be fitted to the same 3.5Jx18 ET25.5 steel space saver rim that the 125/70R18 uses. Outside diameter of tyre 125/70R18 632.2mm 135/80R17 647.8mm (2.5% bigger outside diameter compared to 125/70R18) 135/80R18 673.2mm (6.5% bigger outside diameter compared to 125/70R18) Continental Space Saver Tyre 135/80R18 https://www.camskill.co.uk/m129b0s7672p188874/Continental_Tyres_Temp_Space_Saver_Continental_s_Contact_135_80_R18_T_104M_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_XC_Wet_Grip%3A_XC_NoiseClass%3A_XC_Noise%3A_XC The below foam and jack kits for the Karoq can be ordered from any VAG parts department by quoting the relevant OEM part number. The VAG parts department can check whether this is correct for your particular vehicle, but they will need the car's VIN number to check. OEM part numbers for foam and jack kit (Karoq FWD) (includes everything, except for the actual spare wheel) 57A093860 57A093860B OEM part numbers for foam and jack kit (Karoq 4x4) (includes everything, except for the actual spare wheel) 57A093860A 57A093860C

I will have to test it then. Last time i was on the highway when i turn on the indicator it just stopped my line assist. My bear is Sportline 130 IV as well.

After OTA software upgrade, my car started to show the SOS call limited error message. When checking with OBD11 it reported Battery Service Life Critical (I believe that is 5-year time based and a sneaky money making trick by VW group) and Battery Flat errors. Read widely online that this costs upwards of £400 for Skoda to fix. I brought the replacement battery 3G0 915 089. Did not trust AliExpress units enough, so paid £130 for the original. Skoda price is about £100, but out of stock. Instructions are exactly the same as many YouTube videos about doing it for VW ID4. Pull up rear bench seat by hand. Pull back carpet quite far. Pull out the communication unit. Slide it out of the plastic cover. As the connectors are rather fiddly I did not undo all of them (only the power and data). Replaced the battery and put it all back together. Then drove the car for 2 days to make sure the new battery was fully charged. Then used ODB11 to reset error messages, (in the OBD11 'Apps' menu, it is called 'Emergency Call Battery Reset'. This costs £29 it tokens. Error message is gone. About an hour of work.

Hve you checked any fuse(s) that supply both G65 and air quality sensor?

OK, dinosaur replying to my own problem here! Sorry to bother you all - I hadn't realised that the Android Auto hadn't transferred completely to the new phone, so having done an update on that, the system now seems to work. I'll find another question in due course, I'm sure. Thanks for reading anyway 🙂

Thanks guys. Yes Facelift version. It's in good nick generally with not much picked up on the MOT history other than a misting rear shock absorber and tyres getting low. Service history is pretty good up until the last year or so when usage has been very low mileage due to the owner being at Uni then heading off to Oz. It's also got no rust around the fuel filler and drives well with no undue noises. The place I'm getting it from is actually a neighbour's S/H car dealer but I never knew until yesterday. They'll service it sort the tyres, MOT it and sort the shockers if needed. So we've pulled the trigger and put a deposit down. Will look to thoroughly underseal around the filler flap and sort arch liners when I get my hands on it, and I'm looking for a auto headlight sensor switch, mudflaps, a parcel shelf and a couple of other bits for it...

Just getting back here.. Everybody can take a breather for a couple of days to think, reflect, and question whether this particular discussion is actually going to resolve to a consensus or is it going to spin in circles for another 4yrs of back and forth polarised views that will never be changed and whining. I fear the latter, looking back through the pages and pages of this thread full of personal digs, unsubstantiated claims (from all sides), fear mongering and anecdotes masked as evidence it gives me ptsd to the brexit threads.

I bought a pair from Skoda Parts as I've used them before, took less than a week to arrive. They're slightly wider than the normal ones......

I hope you are all sitting down. The answer, none of the above. 5,5 months Just over £2k spent 7 Technicians inc 3 master techs with combined 110 years of experience. Every single f**ker telling me it's normal, it's how they sound. They are loud engines. Yeah, sure. This was only fuelling my ridiculous perseverance. This was my genuine and last attempt at this, today, before part-exing the car. The solution was inspired by my friends story. Story, which is beyond ridiculous and impossible and I'm not asking you to believe his story. Not that long ago he was sorting a timing chain on his S3 using only genuine parts. And before you say, oh, for sure he did something wrong. He didn't. What he doesn't know it's not worth knowing. The actual number of attempts it's ridiculous so all I will say is that it was more than 2. Eventually, a good friend of ours dropped of an aftermarket parts to him and yeah, you guessed it, or not, car was fixed. Between my last post and today, I also preformed another smoke test, intercooler bypass, Racingline Diverter valve with double the amount of seals and more VCDS diagnostics. How I approached this last attempt is this. For every problem you will have a list of items to test. All got ticked. Then a number of extra items was added to the list. All got ticked. Back to square one and this is where I got "inspired" by my friends timing chain issue. I replaced the PCV valve, again. Car fixed !!! Now, I need you to stop for a minute and just think what is happening here, because I don't believe for a second that both examples are isolated and when nothing makes sense, unfortunately, these days, you have to stop and question the quality of the genuine parts. Remember, back in February, Skoda dealer, replaced my original PCV with a genuine one. I ordered, same part number, same manufacturer (Kengst) genuine VAG PCV made in the same country to fix this. And no, no pinched seal or cracks or damage or whatever else may come to your mind. As I said, due to the "state" of the motor industry, when you tried everything and nothing makes sense, you've got to consider the fact that the genuine brand new part you just fitted was faulty before it has left the factory. >>>>>>> For ADMIN / MODERATOR consideration <<<<<<<<<< Please consider making this post sticky or make a new thread, I don't care. I genuinely don't wish anyone to go thru the bull**** I went thru especially when your car is under warranty and you don't want to void it, which is why I made sure to source identical PCV with 2025 date on eBay for 70quid, new. Same PN and everything. 5 months of stress, head scratching, nearly loosing my mind and a £2000 bill on top of that....all while having a Skoda Warranty and 110 years of experience between the master techs. Skoda dealer showed me another 2.0 TSI Kodiaq with identical issue, no fault codes, whistling and whooshing, which they deemed as normal, meaning the owner is simply unaware that he is driving a car with a fu*ked PCV. No faut codes, no abnormal data log = the dealer will stamp it as "normal behaviour". Thank you for all your suggestions and take care.

This looks very unrealistic, isn't that more than you'd expect even from 100%? I wonder how you car arrived at this. My last drive was 8 km downhill with negative consumption (it told me -7.3 kWh per 100 km) and still it doesn't give a wild guess like this.

I bags the red one.

We got pirates at the harbour 😱 Interesting clouds too ⛅ G

Thanks! The filter didn't help so I may try an ECU reset.