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But not one most people can afford just on a whim or with immediate effect just because petrol and diesel prices have gone up for a few months... You really don't get the fact that many people are not in your privileged position... I do and can sympathise.

Seriously??? Are you trying to tell me that a £150 PCP lease on a Dacia Spring / Leapmotor T03 / Citroen Ami or similar is an equivalent replacement for what I currently drive? Don't be so stupid. Anything worthwhile as a replacement is multiples of £150 per month and would also require a hefty up-front deposit of thousands... plus as a PCP I'd have a very hefty final payment to make at the end of it otherwise the vehicle would have to be handed back. So effectively just throwing money away. As for repair costs out of warranty - my personal experience is that they are very minimal if you choose the right car carefully.

Going for the matte black instead of the red. Looks mean! Stage 2, +300ps, +500nm, now on Michelin PS5, 245/35/19. Next on the list: Sachs performance clutch, upgraded turbo (Garret G2260) and Bilsteins B8

Unless it’s a UK-registered LHD Octavia/Superb/Karoq/Kodiaq, I do not believe so, no. It’s LHD only seemingly, which explains why there has been limited news over here.

Examples please of a D-Segment large SUV EV with low deposit and low / no final payment that doesn't come with a double figure interest rate? I'm struggling to find anything like the offers you suggest are out there... eg a typical PCP on a low spec second hand 4 year old Enyaq with about 40k miles on the clock seems to come in at about £300 per month with an up-front payment of £3k, a final payment of £6k (if you want to keep the car) and over 10% interest, meaning paying almost £5k in interest on a £17k car with potentially nothing to show at the end... In my book that's stupid?

Thank you so much for everyone’s support on this, and thank you @OccyVRS for the extensive feedback, that’s provided me with some really clear information on the situation. As you say, I’ll wait to see what codes have been thrown and make a decision based on that. Would you guys be happy to help me out if I come back with codes on Monday, to see whether any of them are concerning enough for me to walk ? That final insight would really help me feel confident with the decision I make. Just to answer a few of those questions you raised Occy, I’ve left some notes below: 1 - interestingly , my interior is stitched red (seats, steering wheel, gearstick etc). Brakes wise I’ll have to check in the daylight tomorrow. Unless you could spec a VAQ from factory on the 230 (?), I still don’t think this would have come with one right? 2 - As you say, I was a bit wary buying from Cinch given the fact that most cars traded into WBAC are most likely hiding something… I guess I proved the point to myself the hard way! In terms of a good deal, can you tell me? It seemed decent at the time. It was £11,999 for an 86k miles, 2018, 230ps petrol manual estate in meteor grey. I did keep my eye on the market, maybe not for as long as I should have before buying, and anything manual + petrol + estate was around 13-14k, though granted they were 245 editions. What do we reckon, bad or good deal? 3 - appreciate the insight, I’ll wait to see what codes were thrown 4 - do you reckon they could have refitted the parts incorrectly as part of the repairs, and that’s now throwing this EPC issue? I might have misunderstood the suggestion you were raising here. 5 - similar to my question above, do you reckon they’ve reported the relevance between the issue and the fix wrong here? Two more things: I’ve booked the car in to a ŠKODA dealer for Friday next week (assuming the car is fixed by then) for a post purchase inspection effectively (not what they call it but whatever!). Is there anything in particular I should ask them to look at? I obviously can provide all the context I’ve given on this thread, but should I get them to focus on a particular repair that has been done by Cinch, to check they were done properly? Interestingly, and @Warrior193 thanks for your insight also, the wheels on the car are actually 19inch Xtreme alloys (photo attached to make sure I’m not being stupid??). They look like they’ve been recoated also, or once again am I being stupid? Thank you all so much for the help, I appreciate the time you’re putting in to help a ŠKODA novice not make a £11,999 mistake! I want to be part of the gang after deciding to part ways my current car (currently selling my 1995 Volvo T5 manual🥲), but maybe I should not be so hasty. yet again, there’s some positives amongst what’s been said, so there’s a chance this car is still worth keeping, right?

G3, I think. Coolant sensor fault in cylinder 3. No obvious mayo etc but swarf in the engine oil. Oddly still seems to run fine (not that I'm moving it unless essential).

So guys @OccyVRS @Alasdair1 @Warrior193 , ready for a deep dive into my Skoda adventures today?!... The RAC were called out by Cinch for an UPLIFT of my vehicle to the garage, for repair on Monday. On arrival, RAC confirmed that they had actually been called out for a ROADSIDE REPAIR, not an UPLIFT. Despite this, the guy was actually super helpful, and gave me the code readings below: P33B800 - cylinder 2 combustion misfire during direct injection (permanent code) P030200 - Cylinder 2 misfire P130A00 - controlled cylinder shutoff He believes its either a spark plug, injector or coil pack. So, my RAC man switched the spark plugs between cylinder 1 and 2, and swapped the coil pack between 2 and 4 to test what the culprit would be. He CLEARED THE CODES and took the car for a spin, but no luck in retriggering the EPC issue. So, I was told to drive the car to the garage today after he'd left, as he was unable to offer an UPLIFT now that he had diagnosed it and the fault had cleared. So I did so, but I also had no luck triggering the EPC light on this journey to the garage. When I dropped the car off, the garage said that because the codes had been cleared and the fault hasn't been replicated, they don't really have anything to go off, and can't authorise any repairs unless Cinch give them authorisation. This is super frustrating, as if the garage give the car back without any repairs, then this spark/coil/injector issue is just going to crop up again! I have just finished quite a strongly worded email to Cinch to say that I expect them to authorise repairs, whether or not the garage can replicate the EPC fault, because of the fact that the RAC has reported and provided documented evidence for the existence of a mechanical fault with my vehicle. So, my question to you all is, ignoring the admin nightmare I am dealing with trying to sort this all out, if the EPC fault is simply down to a faulty spark plug, coil pack or injector, is this anything to be concerned about? Or would you still be happy to proceed with keeping the car if you were in my shoes? Thanks guys for bearing with my long messages again! On Monday the garage are actually looking at the Skoda, today was just a drop off with a salesman, not a mechanic. So I will find out whether they have managed to replicate the fault or not. And if they have, then my strong email to Cinch was a little pre-emptive, but still fully deserved! Hopefully the above all makes sense, sorry if not, its been a very long day once again! Thanks guys :)

I agree but that new Enyaq quote that you seem to have ignored was at 2.9% not 10%...

Just be very careful when using any toothbrush on painted car surfaces - my 2011 Audi S4 came to me at just over 2 years old, and slight dark lines at the base of the spokes on its 19" double 7 spoke alloys - that, I think, was caused by "gentle" use of a toothbrush on them to remove brake dust.

AFAIK, it's a global system. Affected vehicles seem to be a lot of LHD German cars, which mean it's likely more LHD European models too. Have you got in touch with your local dealer? Deberías sentarte en el lado correcto del coche ;) I think this means 'only' 70 vehicles have had the bolt actually fail, rather than needing it replaced.

I can't actually believe I am posting about bent plastic toothbrushes but.....whatever.... I have opted for a 45deg bend to the shaft and it seems okay, as per the photos. I will see how I get on when I do the next wash. Rome wasn't built in a day!

"Number of vehicles affects: 70 - correct at the time of publication" ?! 😅

So UK vehicles not affected by this recall ?

From VWHub

Look after the pennies and the hundreds of thousands will look after themselves. (As long as you do some intelligent tax planning and tax avoidance, the legal one not evasion) !

Yes I suspect the actual part is NA from Skoda but a Skoda dealer has directed me to VW dealer who it seems may have the part as they show as having that part number in stock so am beginning to think as the diesel engine in my Skoda was originally used in the diesel Golf GTI VW parts may possibly be what I can try and track down.

Nah there are C segment EV cars for a lot less than multiples of £150. For example.. (Was out some months ago but the deals do rotate across Stellantis cars). Not sure about D segment cars as great monthly payment deals which also have incredibly low running costs ie total cost of ownership all up per month. Under £300 a month i would expect. The good deals come and go. Last 2 Skodas I and family have had have been money pit. One diesel Fabia and one petrol Fabia. Thousand pound fixes for thermostats / water pumps, timing chains etc. Regular expensive servicing, two or three times the cost I now pay for the EV servicing. No MOTs, cheap road tax for the first year. No worry about any cost if something goes wrong. Peace of mind. Doesn't sound stoopid to me. Footnote. Note sure I would buy a Stellantis car as they seem to have the same worrying news about them as VAG ie sinking in to loss making, job shedding and their future looks dodgy. I would pick another marque which is a shame as VW / SEAT / SKODA looks like they have finally made a good EV with the Epiq, Polo, Ravel. Too little too late.

I have the exact same system. I have no problem with an SD card but I did have to format it first so try reformatting your card if you have noy already tried that. As an aside, I had an SD card that had been used in a security system and when I tried to format it again for other uses it kept on reporting "damaged storage" when used for audio. The SD card plus 6 CDs gives a large collection of music. In addition there is a aux-in socket in the central storage box which allows you to input more sounds from an external device. There is no blutooth connection for a phone. An expensive option was another box under the drivers seat for phone connection. Personnally I prefer not to be on the phone whilst driving.

Cairus is the person I'd tag to ask about any electrical issues, or DTCs. Seemingly while it's normally white for a 230 and red for a 245, there are exceptions. A definitive answer will be found on the rear axle - vented, or solid. I wouldn't say it's a bargain, but provided everything checks out, that's absolutely on the cheaper end of the market, IMO. In reality, there isn't much of a price difference between the 245 and 230 (or, indeed, the GTI and GTI PP) /4/5. Wait and see what codes are produced. It's entirely possible, but I'd be very suprised if someone can't fit two jubilee clips and a bit of corrugated pipe.

Some noise has returned - not in normal driving; car feels solid (especially the rear droplinks - you can feel the solid transfer) and the solid rear bush in the LCA. Going over most speedhumps is also fine - only the harsh "brickwork" ones seem to really bring out the sound. Unfortunately part of my mind thinks that it might also be the ARB now it has all been taken apart and put back on the car so its been moved from the factory application. Mind is drifting towards an alu subframe which means I'll get clamps for the H&R and have that swapped all in one go.

Good political mood gauging. The Express, Mail and Torygraph have long since ceased being newspapers and become political hearders. Thinking of starting my usual thread on the Budget ie 2026 Budget predictions. KPMG have their out, bit weak i thought, will look put fir pwc's which i should see early as an Alumni. I like the recently added footnote to AI which states this might be a load of *******s.

Spreading rumours is a way of The Government flying kites. Who started the rumour as far as you can see @lol-lol the Daily Express. AI might have it repeated as started by you.

Biulding rumours that pay per mile we be extended to all cars. It is expected that excuse duty on fuel will be cut in the budget but to keep the Treasury receipts up pay per mile will be for all cars. Sounds fairer I reckon.

We learnt quite quickly that air cooled EV battery packs were deficient in several ways. Long been an engineering known issue. I had several triple cylinder engined motorbikes and the cylinder in the middle in these air cooled engines was oft a problem. Air cooled engines in beatles and Porsches getting thermal stress cracks between the inlet and exhaust valves too. Just amazing how long Nissan kept on with the deficient LEAF 1 and 2 basic design. Cars would Rapidgate when second chargibg on a trip ie so hot the the system would throttle to such an extent you coukd have a 4 course meal waiting for it to get enough charge. My 52 KWh Zoe would not even hit 50 KWh charging and if ambient was more than 40 C, more common with Global warming, well forget it. Problems solved with liquid colling and charge curves are twice as quick and flatter even in very hot weather.

The real issue here is that the big push towards electrification is happening before we have actually learned all there is to know about their varied failure modes and how to effectively repair them safely at the component level rather then complete assembly level. Governments are trying to run before they have effectively learnt to walk. There is another good garage that can work on EVs in London and they have their own YT channel and website . I have been watching their channel for a while now, and they are very impressive, but we need many more garages with their skills, and I have no doubt that we will get there eventually, but not before we will have many significant issues along the way www.ogsmechanics.com www.youtube.com/@OGSMechanics

Totally agree, Found the 940 easiest car I have ever worked on. Its even better than the 850 as you can almost climb into engine bay with all the extra space. Do miss my RWD cars plus the B230ft engine was indestructable and non interference as well. Miss my turbo tank. Will get another some day but they are getting expensive and hard to find. Sold mine a few years ago as rust killed it but guy who bought it has a collection of old police cars he rents out to movie makers and needed the engine and ecu. Alasdair

If you do intend to get an inspection, I'd suggest one by an independent Engineer - although rather a closed stable door scenario. Would you still be able to reject after this proposed inspection?

The issue of EV repairs are where you are in the UK, & transporting EV,s to repairers / distances. If you are lucky to be near ones that can do MAJOR repairs then good. As it is just getting EV,s or PHEV,s serviced or minor work might require using Main Dealers unless you are fortunate to have independent places or you can maybe use a Mobile EV Technician.

ICE cars get fuel prices displayed on Google like we have had with EVs for a while but we have no of chargers available as well.... https://www.facebook.com/share/r/1gAzXVNvgA/

I am from Austria

As posted I have both, Kamiq now 4 years old and Karoq 6 months old having replaced our nearly 9 year old Karoq in March. Both our current ones are 1.5 DSG. Kamiq being lighter is more nimble and quicker under acceleration, Karoq ride is slightly better and has more space overall, with more space inside the cabin although the Kamiq can comfortably cope with 4 adults and we happily take our Kamiq to France as mpg is much better.

You know it will give you different answer every time you ask it, right? Single additive is enough for me. I may change the brand when I use all of it. I usually use either Archoil or Oilsyn - this is what the shop I'm buying from has. Once an year or two, I use the more aggressive DPF cleaner Archoil 6400, during a longer journey holiday vacation somewhere. It's written somewhere on the description of these products, that if you use their fuel conditioners regularly, you don't need to use the more aggressive DPF cleaners. But during the winter especially, I drive in the city traffic more than outside of it. Did I say that I put additive in the AdBlue as well? I add Xenum product preventing crystallization in the 10L bottle, before I fill it in the AB tank. It's sometimes -15 or colder when I go for skiing and I know the AdBlue liquid doesn't like temperatures below -10, that's why I'm adding that snake oil

I'll just follow along silently for now.

Correct, they are maximum settings. Whereas the auto recharge setting selects the highest, safe charging rate for present battery state.

Delayed a day by Mum being a bit unwell. After chat with my home mechanic I bit the bullet & paid £60 for a diagnostic check in case there was anything serious. Among a whole list of stuff the likely culprits were a couple of Glow plugs, one active one passive and a passive Active Grill Air Shutter 'A' Suck On. All cleared and we drove home with none reappearing. As they were nearly all passive and I've a service due soon I'll probably leave it a week or two & see what happens.

Hi, please accept my apologies for not responding, this is my first time back on the forum since the car went, it was pretty much as bazz2004 has described, no clear explanation as to what the issue was, just booked into their workshop and collected it later that day and all was sorted, but I’m afraid that was it for me, we genuinely liked the car it was a good all rounder but we just couldn’t see past this breakdown, I wish you all the best 👍

Following. Nothing major as I check my nuts (and bolts) regularly, but still worth knowing. I'll ask around with my main dealer friends.

Reckon all the bolts on my old 1.9tdi are similar but its 19 year old. Thats not good at all. You dont expect it on a 6 year old car unless its been parked in the sea. I assume the same bolt is used on other parts of car as well so may take them some time to find and recall them all. Alasdair

I get Kamiqs as a courtesy car each time my Karoq is serviced, and I definitely find the Kamiq is smaller and lower down. I need the Karoq for its boot size, and would not fit my holiday luggage in a Kamiq as easily as it goes in the Karoq. I can't really judge the performance and ride of the Kamiq as I only get the basic version, while my Karoq is the 2.0TSI 4x4 with DCC. Chris

Tory Boy Andrew Bowie MP thinks that the next Elected Conservative & Unionist Government can impose New Nuclear plants on Scotland. About time if there is to be New Nuclear in Scotland that they get building it. Start at Dumfries House, Balmoral Estate, Castle of May and any other Royal Residences. KC3 can just give his permission & lets see what the Local Authority Planning make of that. In England Jacob Rees Mogg's Estate looks like an ideal location for a Small Nuclear Modular installation. Maybe a AI Data Centre as well.

Any petrol model Octavia would be better than a second hand out of warranty PHEV.

I think it's a distinctive design but not keen on the rear end treatment, and the harking back to the long bonnet of the E-Type seems an unnecessary design flourish IMHO. I do like the efficiency of the 1000HP motors giving a 300+ mile range "at highway speed". Would I buy one if I had £130,000 to spend on a car? No, it's styling is just too "weird" for my taste.

Well it turns out my MIB is completely bricked. No hope of repair. Not entirely sure what went wrong. As far as I can tell all instructions were followed correctly. Only thing possibly is battery was low but it didn’t cut out the MiB unit at all during the flash but fiddling about working out what to do when it stopped did drain the battery right down. So a replacement “plug and play” mib2.5 unit is now being prepared for me and hopefully will get me back up to full speed.

Hello Evolution13! Thank you for the reply! I did not know there was a search for this forum and I thank you for the guidance for what sections to look into. Kind regards, Boifreson.

Welcome. there is a good and long thread on Modifying mk3,s in the Fabia MK,3 section. Pretty sure also pretty much the same question as yours asked more than once. Worth a key word search. The Fabia project section worth a look as well.

Hi Everyone - It has been a while! I think the last time I updated this thread the car had been to Winchester for its first visit... Since then it has been to Winchester 6 more times... To cut a very long story short (if people are interested in the extended timeline I will type it up... perhaps I'll do that anyway incase it helps someone out) the OCU has now been replaced and coded to the vehicle - and I can now become primary user on the car... however, this has NOT fixed the wireless android auto problem which persists... The car still states that wireless android auto should work so it's once again headed back to Winchester at the end of the month to hopefully get it sorted... (I'm not particularly hopeful, but hey..) Important to call out Jess and Dan at Winchester who have both been excellent throughout this period... G.

1) I have removed the back seat. For me, it's modular, so I can just unhook one seat and remove it. 2) I have removed the handle. Slide the plastic cover from one side with the help of a plastic wrench in order to avoid plastic scratches and damage. The same for the other side. 3) I have removed the lock carrier. Just pull it and it should unclip. No screws there. 4) Remove the bottom C-pillar trim panel. This one was a bit tricky. I have managed just to unhook the upper side and slide it enough to access the screws for the next part. 5) Now, all screws should be accessible to remove the luggage compartment side trim panel. After unscrewing and unhooking it, you can slide it over a seatbelt (as you probably don't want to remove that either). 6) The last part is removing the trim panel of pillar C. After unscrewing and unclippingthe lower parts, I couldn't remove it from the headline or sky, as we call it in my country, so I just used my inflatable bag to expand it enough so my hand could reach the connector. After this is done, you can access the connector, the only one there, and simply unhook it and pull out the defective strut. You can easily find out how struts are removed from the knobs (hint: just pull the wire). Connector: One picture summed up the order:

Long time lurker... just went through a similar process to the people above, thought to clarify a few points that might be useful to anyone with the same questions/issues The Mk3 Superb comes with 3 official options for "insuring mobility" or however Skoda marketing calls them Tire repair kit with compressor and goo - under the floor there is a moulded polystyrene piece with extra storage space - like in @newbie69's picture. It can be easily removed by pulling out the floor cover (lift and pull towards you) and then pushing the moulded piece up and away from you (towards the backseat). The floor is perfectly flush and level when it's installed but you are operating on the assumption that any issues you might face will be small and fixable with the goo... 4-6 mm max damage size, not too close to the tread edge and that the rim is still in good shape - good for fuel economy and some bonus storage space, bad for peace of mind Standard spare wheel - it's a 205/55 R16 (a plain-jane 91 load-index asymmetrical summer tire) mounted to a 16x6.5 ET41 VW-spec ( 5x112 CB 57.1) steel rim. It comes with the small-diameter tool kit moulding that you can see in the pictures above - if you want just the kit, the Skoda part no. is 3V0 093 860 B - should cost about 60-ish EUR. The kit INCLUDES the floor attachment/fastener so you have all you need in the package. The wheel is in one of the most frequent sizes in Europe so feel free to avoid the dealer markup and buy it from a tire shop or elsewhere online. The tool kit and the upper side of the wheel protrude a little above the horizontal, so you have a 2-3 mm tall "hump" in your load area that slowly becomes visible with usage. The wheel is SIGNIFICANTLY smaller than the standard fitment so it is a temporary fit and you are limited to 50 mph/80 kph. Because of the difference in diameter (671mm for the standard 19in vs 632mm for the 205/55R16) many functions will be unavailable (ACC and the like) and there will be some complaining from the car. For slightly better results, the spare should be fitted - if you've got the patience for it - to the rear (undriven) wheels. Most impacted are the people with a 4x4 transmission because the Haldex diff really doesn't like different tire sizes - so for its sake, please fix the proper wheel quickly and put it back on. This size is meant only for the <200HP cars (actually that would be all but the higher-powered 2.0 TSIs ) because it can't clear the front brake calipers on those - it will clear the rear ones though - so in theory you could still use this on the bigger TSIs but with the caveat that if you blow a front tire you need to mount the spare to the rear and then use the rear tire to replace the blown front tire. Narrow spare wheel - 125/70 R18 comes as standard/option - depending on the market - on the higher-powered 2.0 TSI versions of the Superb and can clear the front brakes on those. It comes with the larger-diameter moulding (the one that looks like it has petals) that you can see in @Ivan8192 's photo above. The petals are meant to fill the space above the narrow wheel ( just 125 mm wide) and support the load-bearing floor so that it doesn't bend/collapse with a heavier load. The wheel is pretty standard for the VAG group and Skoda sells it for a bit under 200 EUR - with the toolkit being another 60-ish on top - the toolkit includes the floor attachment plastic screw thing. The code for the wheel is 3V0 093 860 B and the one for the toolkit (if you only want that one) is 3V0 093 860 C - there is no point though in getting that kit for a non-narrow wheel . The wheel is smaller-diameter than the standard wheels, same as the one above (632 mm) so the same problems apply (no Cruise-control, not so great for the Haldex, etc) - and with it being so narrow, I would feel really uncomfortable with it as a front wheel at high speed - so the same idea with mounting the spare only on the rear and then putting a full-size rear tire on the front applies Unofficial options Full-size wheel - 215/60R16 or 215/55R17 or 235/45R18 or 235/40R19... the plastic trim at the back of the trunk must be partially cut to allow the wheel to fit - what @JR RS did and the load floor will be raised because of the wheel width (by 12-15 mm for the 215 wheels or by 30ish mm for the 235s ). You can then either raise the floor to keep it level - what @Tokebluff did or just ignore it if it's hidden under the variable load floor... OR... Alternate-size wheel - i went a bit weird for this one - 205/65R16 - it is the same diameter as the standard wheel (673mm vs 671mm for the 19in) so there should be no complaints from the car's systems (ACC works, Haldex is happy and all that) and with the 205 width it fits just as the 205/55R16 would under the trunk floor. The only issue is that it must be inserted from the the front back rather that dropped straight down - the side towards the bumper must go in first to clear the trim there. It DOESN'T clear the front brakes on the higher-powered 2.0 TSIs but it can be installed on the rear (same story as above) and the rear tire used on the front - and then you can drive with full speed. Typical install is on a 16x6.5 ET41 5x112 CB57.1 rim with a very slight (~1mm) lift of the load floor - BUT - if you want to have it absolutely flush, you can mount it to a slightly narrower rim (16x6 rim, ET anywhere between 33 and 48, same specs otherwise)