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The Jag is bold but that Alfa, wow. It'll look amazing on the back of a recovery truck

I think you have done the right thing. You might have had a better result by getting the car fixed, but you might also have had a bigger bill than a 13 year old car was worth, even with that low mileage. Better luck with whatever you buy to replace it.

It's an MPI

I sought help from citizens advice and write a letter describing the problems to the overall Company and setting out my rights and what the law requires. I received a reply saying that they will take the car, leave me with a courtesy car, and give the car a run around and basically sort out the problem....to we will see!!

UPDATE: Car has been to the garage, they have replaced the crank sensor and asked me to see how it goes, I will keep you updated. Regards Tony

£1500. People might think me an idiot but it's a real pain (and expensive) to keep mobile for work without a working car; I'm emotionally done. I would get more if I waited but it's been a right pain and I needed to resolve the problem. At least it's not being scrapped and it's going to someone who wants to save it. That's some comfort, I guess.

@amurskoda you can switch from your screen to 5E0919605M or 5E0919605N but you can NOT to 9.2" screen 5E0919606D unless you rework your glove box unit to MIB2.5

Skoda again

There is a strong possibility that your warranty provider may not be telling you the truth about there being 'No faults' (DTC codes) recorded - AFAIK, anything that causes the ECU to go into limp mode will flag a DTC - which they should be able read on the equipment they have available.

Thanks for all the helpful input. My daughter has decided to go for the Suzuki Swift petrol automatic.

I have swapped out my small non-carplay unit for the larger model you show above, from what I understand you also need the part that sits in the glove box, you cannot just swap the screen over. When I did mine I bought the screen and the glovebox unit second hand but together and it was a straight swap. You also need a different USB port if you wish make use of carplay options.

70-75% SOC could well be due to the Smart charging alternator algorithm allowing headspace for regenerative charging - I suspect that this algorithm can lead to irreversible plate sulphation if usual driving conditions never allow the battery to regularly achieve more than, say, 90% SOC.

Yeah it has that pulse setting but i’d say the battery would need to be disconnected to use it. It wouldn’t surprise me if there’s sulfation. According to the obd11 the battery never goes above 70-75% soc and it gets lots of driving 30k a year.

Thanks. after a bit of digging, it seems that there were, as you say, two options. The one you showed the link to, is the one WITHOUT the water sensor, which is the right one for our car, it turns out. The one I was sent, was for the car WITH the water sensor. It has a little plastic pipe down the side and a projection from the top. I've had to drop the car off for an MOT today, but I think the correct one is the one you showed - which I now have a Mahle version of, and I'll try to fit it this evening.

Thanks, yes. Sadly, it looks like this was one of the 1% of times when entering the registration umber didn't yield the right result! I think I might have sorted it now though.

My issue is fixed,

UPDATE: Car now started to switch itself off when driving and saying manually restart engine, bit scary to say the least. Now in with the garage for diagnosis and hopefully repair, fingers crossed.

There are generally two variants, one is as described the other isnt. The one that seems the most common is like this, (would need to check model etc) Bosch | Euro Car Parts

Thanks Dave Definitely will check the top of the engine and i will ask theMK3 Forum as well, might check any electrical issues as my work does have a tester which is possible

On the other RoW 26.06 using the proforma Dugeem and serdar_18fr from the Cupra board of country substition have extended the list to this: Australia -> https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_AUS_202612_Offline_Update.zip Asia -> https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_ASIA_202612_Offline_Update.zip Chile -> https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_CHILE_202612_Offline_Update.zip India -> https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_INDIA_202612_Offline_Update.zip Israel -> https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_ISR_202612_Offline_Update.zip North Africa -> https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_NA_202612_Offline_Update.zip South America & Mexico -> https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_MRM4_SAM_202612_Offline_Update.zip Türkiye -> https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_TUR_202612_Offline_Update.zip But no joy with # Gulf Region # South Africa 1.5 Gb The letter trick doesn't work for them. I'm not saying those in the list are coreect or final... for those in the areas to check.

I don't think Jaguar is deluding themselves that the car is elegant, I'm pretty sure it is simply making an incredibly bold statement. I don't get most modern art, or say, Captain Beefheart, but there are many who do, perhaps that's what Jaguar is aiming for. They are not looking for big sales, that's for sure. There will be crossover tech from this car and some of the innovative engineering solutions will be carried over to their other upcoming cars, so there might be a little more method in their madness than just to shock everyone. Personally, I don't think the world cares if there is a Jaguar or not, it hasn't cared for many years, regardless of the excellent cars it's made over the last few decades. I'll wait a few years and see if the gamble pays off. One thing for certain, I'm super excited to see one in the flesh, which in itself speaks well to the interest this car has evoked.

Thank you @Breezy_Pete . A lot of aftermarket versions and even some remanufactured OE ones list both 6Q0500051BB and 6Q0500051AT as compatible numbers, whereas Diederichs only lists 6Q0500051AT. So I guess, as suggested above, I’ll just ignore the two extra mounting holes and use a zip tie to secure the brake line. That way my son willl also have the option of upgrading to disc brakes in the future if he ever feels like it. I'l post some pictures of what it looks like in the real life.

For sale is my 17 plate corrida red Skoda Superb Sportline DSG 190 TDI hatchback with 84k on the clock, full Skoda main dealer service history, MOT until May 2027 and costs only £35 a year to tax! Initially purchased from @SwampDonkeyGJ on here via these Briskoda classifieds in 2021. It has the usual high spec including KESSY, adaptive cruise, electric tailgate, xenon headlights, heated front seats etc along with the Columbus infotainment system with Apple CarPlay and Android Auto. Along with main dealer yearly services at 14k, 24k, 33k, 43k, 50k, 59k, 66k, 74k and 81k, the cam belt and water pump were changed at 60k along with DSG oil/filter changes at 40k and 80k. Original 19” Vega alloys with no kerbing along with new Michelin PS4 tyres and a proper spare wheel. Recent new brake discs and pads and an air con regas last year. All documents, handbook, V5, previous MOT’s, receipts in the original Skoda folder along with two keys. HPI clear so no accidents or finance outstanding. Genuinely the best car I've ever owned. I only meant to keep it for 3 years but after 5+ years the cost to change gap is getting bigger and bigger hence advertising here. Feel free to drop me a PM if you need the number plate for checks, ask any questions or want my phone number for a chat. I'm located in south Birmingham near to J4 M5. £9995

its because the electricity travels via the culomb counter. if you connect directly to the battery it bypasses that. Its effectively a tally on electricity in vs electricity out of the battery and the car uses this for its "state of charge" status.

@Evolution13

I set it up on both Google Maps and Apple Maps, and it works.

Skoda haven't fitted a sticker for years.

Welcome to the forum. Best say what car, what miles, what engine it has. So is it a petrol engine? Has it been serviced yet? EDIT, I see, 1.0 Fabia. So a TSI or is it a MPI? . Best have a different dealership deal with the issue. a very obvious Warranty issue, Spark Plugs, Turbo Accuator, Software issue or what ever. A Mod can move this to the Fabia Mk4 section.

Hi everyone, I'm new to the forum and new to Skoda. I wanted to post this review to help others - I found a lot of the car journos to be very dismissive of the Fabia 130 and couldn't find anything about the car from real owners other than the odd comment on YouTube and on here. After 1000 miles driven in my Fabia 130, I've found it to be a fantastic all-rounder, which was just what I was looking for. I have had many hatchbacks over the years, Renault Clios, Ford Fiestas, a Mazda 3, Hyundai i10, Toyota Yaris and I wanted something that was sporty and fun but also practical and with good tech and want to say that the Fabia ticks every box. If you read reviews from Carwow, Auto Express, Whatcar they say that it isn't a hot hatch and isn't fast or fun enough, which is true, but Skoda has never claimed it to be a hot hatch, it's a special edition, tuned Fabia Monte Carlo - go into it with that mindset and you will love it. Pros It handles very well - it feels light on it's feet, grips well and in sport mode the steering is weighty and responsive. The seats are incredible - more comfortable than my Mazda 3 which I did a few trips around the UK in. The car is loaded with tech if you option it well and just about everything you need is included as standard. The Winter Premium pack is a must in my opinion for those misty/frozen mornings, and a heated windscreen is something I have missed since owning a couple of Fords. The infotainment is good, not outstanding but I am happy to sacrifice blazing performance for good buttons and easy-to-use menus, which the Fabia has. The steering wheel buttons are a particular highlight, everything you need is there and being able to switch through menus in the virtual cockpit and switch off ADAS systems with a couple of button presses is a breath of fresh air these days. Cons There are some minor software glitches that are more irritating than anything - the radio station will randomly swap on starting the car for me, no idea why but it's such a bizzare quirk I don't know why it's not been fixed in an update The engine note is dreadful - akin to a herd of cows than anything sporty. At high revs it resonates throughout the car with a drawn out groan. Again, it's not a hot hatch but better sound deadening or a proper exhaust note would go a long way! Most of the HVAC controls are easily reachable with physical buttons, but there are a couple of things (heated windscreen and the temperature sync between the two zones) that are only accessible in a menu on the touchscreen. Strange. If you are using Android Auto for Google Maps (and I assume Apple CarPlay) you can't have your navigation on the virtual cockpit - if you want a zoomed out view on the main infotainment screen and a zoomed in view on the virtual cockpit for seeing close junctions and directions, you have to use the default Skoda navigation system, which is good, but it's an oversight. Overall, I'm very happy with the car - the price was a steal, I got it for £8,000 off list in July, and it's loaded with options. Unless you really do not want anything sporty, it's a no brainer to go for the 130 over a Monte Carlo in my opinion. I decided on this over the Polo GTI because of the option to have a heated windscreen, premium sound system and heated steering wheel which, strangely are not even options on the Polo. Plus I like the understated nature of a Fabia. If you want something out and out fast, look elsewhere, but if you want a good blend of practicality and space, sportiness, good looks and good tech, be sure to look at one. If any prospective buyers have any questions, I'd love to answer them, or if there are any other 130 owners here, let me know your thoughts on the car.

Same message I had. I was in France and the temperature was high 30s I have used OBD11 to enable me to see oil, coolant an gearbox temperatures, with the latter often in the 90s. The fault message however appeared when the car was started from cold.

Not in the UK it doesn't. Putting on the indicator simply tells the system you intend to move lane, and it temporarily deactivates the Lane Assist and Travel Assist combination.

Hi again! So, I managed to reach the solenoid component and bend the little pins to increase the contact. I did a scan on the module and erase the error, and finally got rid of it. Indeed, the component that hold the solenoid is the last component you can reach after you disassemble the entire central console. I took some photos, but not with exact steps to follow. The tools that I needed were prying tools for the trims, T20 and T30, a 10mm socket(preferable a longer one as the screws are a bit longer) and a flat screwdriver to help me with the removal of the different connectors. I’ll try to explain the steps as best I remember: Remove the trim with the gearbox selector and the wireless charger with the prying tool and unclip all the connectors. After that is removed, you have 4 T20 screws, two on each side that you have to remove. In the front row also, the central console has two “skirts” that needs to be removed. These have one screw each, almost at the extremity near the accelerator pedal(for me, as i have LHD) and on the other side as well. After the screw is removed, pull the skirt to the side and down, they’ll come off quite easy. Remove the rear usb chargers trim/rear vents with a prying tool. Start from the bottom, there are two clips, one on each side, then go up, and you’ll find two more, one on each side. After that, gently pull from the bottom towards upright and use the prying tool to unclip it from near the armrest hinge. Once that is removed you will have to remove the duct vent and you’ll be able to reach the 2 T30 screws, that you have to remove. Once that is done, you’ll be able to remove the central console, but you have to unplug the connectors for the parking brake/autohold. Remove the T20 screw from the front side metal part that provide the 220V current and the two T30 from the back. There is no need to unplug it. You just take it out of the way. Remove the two T30 screws from the plastic bracket that holds the central console with the 4 screws from step 2. Remove the duct vent. Use the prying tool to unclip the keyless module from the upper side. (This step can be ignored i think, as after I removed it, I saw that it wasn’t blocking anything) Remove the 4 10mm nuts that holds the final plastic part, that cover the module with the solenoid. Remove the solenoid with prying tools on the clips and gently pull it upward to not damage the pins. Once you the solenoid, bend the little pins so it makes a better contact with the counterpart. Everything in reverse order, making sure you don’t force/break anything and you don’t forget about the connectors.

depends on your driving habits, if you live in colder areas with lot of short starts and stops, short trips, even 0w20 can be ok. i switched to 0w30, 30000 kms is no-go, 15000kms is maximum, i change oil once a year on about 8000-10000 kms, i dont drive much, but my drives are 90% short trips, about 10 kms rush hours. filters are cheap, i take Mann oil filter, Febi, Bluechem or Valeo air and pollen filter for about 8€ each, changing once a year. also aware that on your gearbox service probably has never been done.

Hi all — car's currently with a Skoda independent specialist here in Bristol, and I wanted to sanity-check with the forum while they dig in. Car: Octavia RS 2.0 TSI Combi (245 PS), MY2022, 7-speed wet DSG (DQ381 / 0GC), 65000 miles. Service history: full Skoda / independent — DSG oil + filter service not done. What's happened: got the alert “ gearbox in emergency mode. No reverse possible”. Breakdown technician’s scan showed two codes: P27F500 (selector lever lock, Park position) and P176F00 (Clutch 2 closes unintentionally). P176F00 has a VAG TSB: if it's sporadic with a frequency counter of 2 or less, you clear and test drive; if it returns or is static, it's guided fault finding. Cleared the codes, drove ~5 min, and P176F00 came straight back with the counter now above 2. So it's persistent, not a one-off. Questions: Anyone had P176F00 on a DQ381 — root cause and fix? Clutch pressure sensor set, mechatronic, or clutch? Did a DSG oil + filter service ever clear it once the code was logged, or wishful thinking? Anyone managed to get Skoda to cover a DQ381 mechatronic as a goodwill job at ~4 years old? Thanks.

I believe that even petrol powered Mk4 Octavias are equipped with a particulate filter and require the weekly blat to unclog them.

Thanks all. I have spoken to a local trader who has bought my car and trailered it off to fix up. Hopefully it'll have another lease of life afterwards.