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Just got my sons MK1 1.2htp through another MOT. Did front swing arms and console bushes. plus a few other ball joints while I was at it. Only advisories this year are front nearside tyre worn on edge and a slightly loose wing mirror glass. Not bad for a twenty year old car. Tyre is worn probably due to front bushes being shot plus had a slow puncture so may have been run soft. Will get alignment checked and maybe a new tyre. Very happy plus so is my son. He even got me a nice bottle of single malt as a thankyou. Thanks to Pete for advice on console bolts etc. Alasdair

You hv a NAV button so you have an Amundsen MIB1 map updates stopped 5 years after the MIB1 ws last used in production, which was early 2015 - so the 2020/2021 update is the most recent available for MIB1.

Website cleared my draft (?). Not retyping. Removed rear right pillar cover (Easy) Got 50 Ohm buzzer out complete with its connector and a short wire tail (Cut wires at clip) by gently pulling down back of headlining. Intentionally destroyed its plastic mountings because they fitted it forward facing on the rear roof beam! New OE replacement part going back behind rear right pillar cover with original connector and wire tail soldered and sleeved to wire pair behind pillar cover. Beware of Chinese buzzer clones, They may be 8 Ohms, too quiet and could damage controller buzzer driver.

I went hunting for dash rattles today. To remove centre speaker grill. Prize edge towards rear of the car up with trim tools in a few places along the edge. Then rotate this back edge upwards. To refit, pop up the rear edge of the vent cover a bit first so the grill can go back down vertically. Then vent cover going back down secures it in place. Pretty certain most of my rattle comes from where these two pieces fit together. I fitted some 1.5mm thick draught excluder to all flat surfaces and the back edge of the grill. Seems to have quietened down some of the rattle. With the vents you don’t need a special tool. The bottom edge pops out easy enough with a trim tool. Top edge took some more persuasion using a thin metal shim but once it was out I realised there was 4 sprung plastic grips. I think you could be strategic with a thin metal shim in these places to release it. Nothing in this area looked to be loose but I put some draught excluder on a couple of flat contact points anyway. Lastly popped the screen off with release tools and added some draught excluder next to where the clips hold it in and the top edge where it contacts the trim. Quick drive and it hasn’t eliminated all the 2k rpm rattle but certainly quietened it a bit.

Hi all, I've just had some work done on my 2017 Sportline 280 4x4 - waterpump, thermostat, aux belts, do88 intercooler, new horns. I was gutted and worried when I saw the state of my crashbar, you could literally peel the rust off in places Has anyone else had theirs as rusty? Cheers

Big thanks to Breezy_Pete for all your help in this matter; I now know why I can't see the shutters. Also, thanks, DerekU, for your input in this matter.

Finally found a sensible parts catalogue at https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda It has entries for front doors L&R but rear doors are also split into saloon and combi (estate) so I think that means the fronts are common to both body shape. S.

Looks like the only extra wires that would be needed are a 12v feed from fuse box and a ground. All others are reused from existing fakra connections and one red wire from the green block of the quad lock. (Top part of diagram is without hub, bottom part of diagram is with hub R293) BCM not involved. This kit has all the wiring. Would just be the actual usb port needed. https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIoHt10

While that will happen, Skoda's stated reason for having fitted adaptive cooling shutters to the Fabia when the Mk4 version was introduced in 2021 was (as I highlighted in my posting of October 17 above) to improve the car's aerodynamics and reduce its fuel consumption - the same reason for Skoda fitting 'aero' trims to some Fabia Mk 4 wheels. My late-2023-built Fabia Mk4 SE L car's standard specification included the aero wheel trims, but the trims were dropped from the specification for the following model-year. My car does not have the cooling shutters and, apparently, neither does the 2025 Monte Carlo Fabia owned by @Alvin600 This May 2026 article compares the Skoda Fabia Mk4 with the Mazda 2 https://carvago.com/articles/car-battle/mazda-2-vs-skoda-fabia Active cooling shutters are mentioned in the "Aerodynamics and innovation" section of the Fabia review, but I suspect that this is an assumption based on Skoda's press releases rather than the reviewer knowing it to be true. (Perhaps @BACUPIAN could check if his Fabia has the shutters?)

Hello all, I've managed to activate smartlink, thanks for sharing all the steps. Now I have another problem, maybe someone else has a solution. connecting the phone with cable, all good, androind auto is working, no problems there. when I try to connect a wireless adapter in the car's USB port, connects with the infotainment, but when I pair the adapter with my phone via bluetooth, the infotainment gives a USB error end keeps resetting. It could be that the cars's USB port is low on amperage and keeps getting errors? Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I have never heard about such firmware. Moreover, I have never found installation files for any newer software than MST2_EU_SK_P0359T. The solution you can use is to: Patch swdownload to enable installation of different firmware. Install VW firmware MST2_EU_VW_P0480T (metainfo2.txt must be adjusted to enable installation on your unit). Install patch to enable VW FEC/SWaP codes. Enable VW FEC/SWaP codes. Install modifed SKODA HMI.

Back in 1991 when my mk2 Golf was built it had two pressure switches, one that covered the bottom end of the rpm spectrum, the other covered everything above that. I think some recent Skoda engines have gone back to having multiple switches, but only because oil pressure is being actively controlled to minimise wasted pumping effort. So that needs monitoring to know if the control system has failed.

i put new hidraulic mount, Lemforder, and on lower mount i put powerflex yellow insert. now engine runs in idle like a diesel, but i think it will settle down more after a while. hidraulic mount had bad play, new one have almost not play at all.. https://photos.app.goo.gl/4hDEtQ2Q3wDCwcx7A

I have started to get the same noise on my mk2. Only noticeable at slow speeds and when taking off. I think it might be drive shaft related as I also have a wobble when accelerating especially around 40mph felt through car not steering wheel. Last mot advised front wishbone bushes(the large ones in alloy block were worn) and it was soon after the noise started. Its not there all the time but a combination of worn bushes and a drive shaft also worn or out of balance in my case may be causing the noise. Have checked everything else and it all seems solid. On mine it sounds like a flapping noise as well and gets worse when turning hard left or right. Havent checked properly yet but wondering if inner cv joint gator is rubbing. I first thought it was the brake disc shield rubbing but its clear of disc. Cant take car of road until tomorrow as long as my sons passes its MOT as need a car everyday. Alasdair

Hi. I searched for a comfortable car with space in the booth and towbar. It became to be a 2024 Skoda Enyaq iv85x, corrida red. Sofar am I really satisfied. It is my first EV and I have realized that it is a lot to learn to handle the car, especially about charging.

I found another Part Number reference and a link that relates specifically to Fabia Mk4 models. This drawing shows the 'radiator louvre' assembly and there's no real doubt about what it looks like and its position on the car. There's a Skoda Fabia Owners Club Facebook group and (when I have a moment) I'll ask owners of Mk4s if their cars have the cooling-shutter unit and, if so, which country their car was bought in and its age and specification.

Not interested, but just wanted to say what a well-written advert this is! Best of luck with the sale.

Yes the P33400P update fixed the repeated infotainment unit updates.

PROBLEM SOLVED! Just replaced the main T-stat with an oem MHALE wich is the producer for VAG. The one i replaced first was a Myle brand. I think what happened is i got a bad myle t-stat that worked for a while but the dsg stat was bad. I then replaced the dsg stat but by the time i did that the myle t stat had failed. Then. Just buy Oem parts. It will save you so much trouble. Hope this helps somone.

You'd think, but trust me and try what I suggest.

Ok, I'll try (not tonight, now it's dark) but I thought at idle it would need to alert if the oil pressure somehow fell to nothing. The engine would be damaged at idle. Also, I thought it should show at a cold startup, just to show the light is working, like the other lights do.

It's a grand morning - calm before the storm!

Not sure what it's known as but there was a distinct beam of sunlight straight up from where the sun had set a few moments earlier

From VWHub -