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Same warning light comes on yellow to indicate low level, as read by sensor in sump. Some older engines may not have level/temperature sender in sump, but most do. Any that can be set to variable/longlife service schedule will have it.

@Coral-C : So, we have just completed the 360 mile trip to Windsor from Scotland. M6 / M40. Not the best journey due to a combination of heavy rain, English half-term school holidays and the usual weekday traffic - plenty of accidents and delays. Get a grip people! Speaking of grip, I focused on the issue of gripping the steering wheel while using the semi-autonomous driving technology. It's a bit weird. Initially, travelling south from Carlisle to the Tebay Services in the Lakes, I had very few alerts such that I was already formulating my response to you that things were fine in our Superb. The second stint to the M6 toll services was not so good though. Plenty of alerts such that it spoilt the experience of the technology. I found myself bemoaning it to the ever-patient Mrs A over an overpriced cuppa, on the overpriced Midland Expressway toll road (I shall never complain about French or Italian tolls again, even if the Italian motorway infrastructure has a record of collapsing in and around Genova). But then the final stint down to Windsor was pretty good with only one alerts. My tentative conclusion? I need to test it again when we head north! I wonder if using the heated steering wheel might affect it. I know that a slight wriggle of the steering wheel clears the warning but so does simply tightening my grip of the wheel, in any position - debunking the theory about specifically positioned contact sensors. On that final stint I was very conscious of my hand placement and grip, somewhat defeating the purpose of the technology which is meant to lighten the mental load. I only had one warning about not paying attention which was justified as I was preoccupied with the touchscreen at the time. I hate using the screen to access settings while driving and ask Mrs A to watch the road while I am briefly fiddling. I did get warnings about taking a break after as little as 70mins which tells me that the car doesn't rate my normal driving style then 😅. More generally, I found the technology very useful in traffic jams or convoys. But my brain is still far better at reading the road ahead, second guessing the behaviour of other road users and maintaining flow & momentum. But the technology lulls me into laziness, even if the overall drive is not so enjoyable. And I enjoy driving. So the technology is good, very good but not perfect. I am glad we have it though and with time I will become more adept at using it seamlessly. I will test this again on our way back to Scotland later in the week and post again on this thread. Best wishes.

Big hello to all the forum members! I’m new here, and I’m the new owner of a Škoda Octavia 2.0 TDI (110 kW) with a DSG transmission and the 'Style' trim level. I have only one photo at the moment, but I’ll make sure to share some soon. I’m from Bosnia and Herzegovina, and I have a general interest in computers and technology. I look forward to a great community experience, exchanging useful advice, and sharing knowledge and experiences!

Possible Causes & Diagnostic Steps 1. Bent or Rusted Brake Dust Shield: Why it happens: The metal plate behind the brake disc rusts easily on Felicias. If it is slightly bent or has accumulated rust around its perimeter, it comes into contact with the rotating rotor. When you turn the steering wheel, the microscopic shifting of the wheel causes it to touch or move away. What to do: Jack up the car, remove the wheel, and gently push the shield backward (away from the rotor) using a screwdriver. Clean off any flaking rust that might be rubbing against the disc. 2. CV Joints / Axle: Why it happens: A worn outer CV joint can produce a metallic noise that changes depending on the steering wheel angle. What to do: Inspect the rubber boots for any tears. If the grease has leaked out or water/dirt has gotten inside, the joint dries out and causes friction. 3. Suspension Mounts and Bushings (Control Arm Bushings): Why it happens: If the control arm bushings are worn out ("sagged"), the entire suspension strut shifts under load (e.g., at 60-80 km/h due to aerodynamic pressure and rolling resistance). This alters the alignment of the components, causing friction that disappears as soon as you turn. What to do: Use a pry bar to check for play (looseness) in the control arm bushings and the ball joints. 4. Improperly Seated or Defective New Wheel Bearing: Why it happens: Even though it was replaced, if the bearing was not pressed completely straight (properly seated) into the steering knuckle, the wheel hub may sit at a slight angle. This causes the brake rotor to wobble and rub against the brake pads. This explains why light braking makes the noise disappear.

Make & Model: Skoda Fabia Mk1 52-plate Colour: Energy Blue Mileage: 114589 Price: £1195 Description: 2002 Fabia classic fastback 1.4MPI Condition: Surprisingly tidy for age, virtually no body rust. Pictures below, but additional ones can be taken on request. MOT due Sept 2027 Basic model with no central locking or electric windows. Engine runs nicely and pulls well. Could be a lovely easy start to a project, or just a 'good to go' vehicle for anyone who doesn't mind simplicity. Private Message me please or post here with questions. Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: Haven't owned it for long, but swapped out coolant tank and coolant for fresh. Serviced and brakes all attended to. New rocker cover gasket to fix oil leak. Leaky rear door fixed. 5J 14" steel wheels upgraded to 6J; 185/60/14 tyres in good condition, including matching spare. Extras: N/A Mods: N/A Shipping: N/A Collection: Yes, Highworth SN6 Pictures:

I can top that, though not VW group. My sister has a Peugeot 107 which - twice in my recent experience - has been 2 litres low with a 3.1 litre capacity without putting the level warning light on. I don't hold out a lot of hope for a long future for this particular (1KR) engine. Sounded like it was sorely missing this oil before the latest top-up.

Nice find.

Thanks again for your rapid, helpful replies. Really gets to the heart of the matter. 👍🏻

No need to replace parts with the logic ''if it's not this, it would be the other" etc, this is an money spend situation which never ends. A mechanic can diagnose the wheel bearing when the car is on the lift-jack and turn each wheel by hand.Also turning the steering wheel full left-right and vice versa. Have you ever check or replace the steering wheel fluid? Have you listen with the hood open and the car standing if the noise comes from a pulley? Brake pads whistle when braking, the bent brake discs create vibrations while braking. I had a situation with a grinding-squeaking noise while moving in reverse or when turning in U turns. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/541160-grinding-noise-in-reverse/

Hello Breezy-Pete, thank you, you are right! When disconnected, the oil light eventually shows (after nearly 20 seconds) but it's on the MFD (Multi-function display) in this Elegance model, not on the rev counter with all the other lights (where it should be in my opinion). It takes a long time, and, if there was no oil, then some significant damage could be done in that 20 seconds. Video link is below, so that others can see how it works. (The wire comes off easily in the video because I'd previously unclipped it, so I could remove it with one hand, holding the camera.) I think Skoda have tried to be too clever here, and an on/off switch would be adequate. So it's possible my old switch is fine. By the way, the new one was a proper Skoda one. Thinking this through, my test doesn't actually prove the pressure switch is working, merely that it's providing a signal all the time. To test it more, and prove it drops the signal when there's no oil pressure, I'd have to unscrew it, re-connect it and then run the engine with it unscrewed. But I think I'll leave well alone now. Thank you for your help. Video link: https://youtu.be/Ae1Ofbnhhtk

Having monitored the battery for a few days, consistent low cranking voltage has lead me to decide to replace the battery. I went for the most reasonably priced with the longest warranty. £140 with 4 years for a Duracell from GSF with free next day delivery. All fitted and coded and faults reset. Date code on the old battery was 2019 so it had done pretty well! Disappointingly the voltage on the new battery is lower than the old one! I would have thought they get shipped fully charged but it would seem not. So the charger is on to give it a bit of a top up. In hindsight I should have charged it on the bench before installing!

A battery lasts as long as a battery lasts. Someone using the car multiple times a day obviously won't get the same use as someone using the car a couple of times a week. There should be a low battery warning on the car's display to prompt a battery change. But given that the Panasonic batteries that are fitted at the factory cost around £1, probably easier to just replace it annually or at whatever point you choose. You can open the back of the fob by withdrawing the emergency key around 50% & using that to push against the battery cover. You need to press a button on the fob after removing the old & before inserting the new. Like most things, harder the first time you try it. 😉 As above, you pry the cover off the door handle to access the manual lock, which the emergency key fits.

There a lock near the keyless sensor on the handle: You need to remove the smaller cover. Inside the fob, there a small key to open the car. Then the car should start even if the fob battery is dead, as it uses something like a NFC sensor to start which has not to be necessarily powered

We took an (lhd) Epiq for a test drive, and were quiet impressed. There was plenty of room inside, I'm 6' tall, and there was still enough room in the rear when set up for me driving. It was comfortable, and responsive. We are seriously thinking about getting one to replace our current Karoq. The model I drove was a 55 Edition.

Aargh, got 5 more images , I cant upload them. Basically, I cut out the aperture in the RH side so it matched the LH side, the airbox was already modded - R600 pikey mod. I bought these vent guide things which are meant for the Golf GTI, and mounted them the other way up to guide air into the airbox

I tested the Epiq (and the Peaq) on a drive from Munich to AUstria (Seefeld) and then back again. I am serioulsy thinking of replacing my Enyaq with an Epiq 55. Here's the video I made of the drive from Munich to Seefeld. https://youtu.be/1rWut1ialGM

Yeah I know. 😃

The main things to watch on the BMN, going by the workshop procedure for that engine: - **Get the right bits before you start.** The seal kit (heat shield/washer and O-rings), plus new clamp bolt and rocker shaft bolts, because they're stretch bolts. Worth getting new ball studs and adjusting screws for the rockers as well, as the procedure says to replace them. - **Before you take anything apart,** if you have VCDS, record the injector balance values (measuring block 013) so you can compare afterwards. - **Getting them out:** the rocker shaft needs to come off evenly, and a stuck injector needs the proper slide hammer puller. Don't lever on the solenoid or the connector. Suck the fuel out of the bore before the new one goes in. - **O-rings:** lubricate lightly and fit them without rolling or twisting, otherwise you'll get fuel in the oil later. - **Refitting:** the injector has to be pushed square into its seat with the clamp while you tighten. If it isn't, it won't seal properly. - **Rocker adjustment:** this is the bit people get wrong. The adjusting screw is set with a dial gauge against the injector after fitting, and the procedure is specific to the engine. Get the workshop data for the BMN for this step and the torque figures, and don't copy figures from the 8v PD or the common rail engines, as they're different. Afterwards, prime the fuel, check for leaks, check the balance values again, and keep an eye on the oil level for the first few hundred miles in case an O-ring is leaking fuel into the oil.

The Ice Scraper has moved to the lower lefthand edge of the boot lid (when open). It won't fit in the EV "filler flap" anymore, since the fitting of the big rubber socket seal on the flap door.

its a big job but can be done on the drive at home i did mine over an easter weekend. front in the air on axel stands the hardest bit was getting the gearbox back in i had a helper for this part of the job. i have done many clutches in the past the clutch i used was an ebay solid flywheel kit one.

Shouldn't it have SK in the name not VW?

This does not work on all cars. Open the car with the key remote. Physically open the boot, but have the rest of the doors closed. Lock the car using the key remote. Put the key in a faraday bag. Place the key/bag in the boot. Close the boot. Thanks. AG Falco

If the situation requires you not to take your electronic key, why would you take a tablet or smart phone with you?

On the drivers side B pillar of my 2026 Enyaq VRS. I'd imagine the 85 SEL is similar.

Have you tried putting the keys in a tin box (aka Faraday cage) when you leave them in the car. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/316713444312?chn=ps&_ul=GB&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&google_free_listing_action=view_item

I assume it’s not on one of the b pillars when you open the front doors?

Trust me. From 2006, I had a MKI 140 and then a MKII 170 in 2011 until I bought the 280 in 2020. Give it a week and you won’t miss the diesel thump, as the 280 is, as Gav says, a different animal. Unless you’ve driven a truly fast car, you will not believe how fast the car accelerates. I do very short (2 miles each way) commute and I get around 24mpg. On a long run (Surbiton to Liverpool) without too many explosive accelerations, I’ve got 39mpg which, in our case for a 330bhp car, is great and on shorter “long” runs 32-36. Even when (well hope) the lunatic Trump pointless war is over, we all know that fuel prices are not going to return to the prices a year ago, so they’ll reduce but the Petrol/Diesel price difference will remain.

Go and try a 280 too, it does not punch like a diesel. It’s a different animal.

I examined my original rocker cover closer, i popped of the PCV cap and took a look at the membrane. I had 225tkm on the dash and few months over 11 years with the original rocker cover. To me it seemed okay, no tears or holes etc and it had good elasticity still. Also the spring that operates it felt and looked okay also. Also noticed that the injector well seals were really snug fit, couldnt get them off with just fingers, maybe they are glued on in the original cover? If i remember right, the aftermarket cover seals weren't that tight fit but still okay in my opinion, seated good.

It is Maxton Design V2, bought it from Kopacek. Adds a lot to the look of front, love it. Also since last update I've added Rieger rear diffuser and Maxton sideskirts. Exterior is now complete for my liking. Yes it is L&K and maybe you should not do that, but I don't care, I do whatever I want 😁

Same here do everything myself if I can. All my cars are old and average garage bill would be more than there worth plus if you do it yourself you know its been done right with no missing washers and everything put back etc. Alasdair

The biggest saving grace for me is I do all the work myself, I cannot imagine the cost of doing all of this at a garage, spent 3 hrs diagnosing alone yesterday. I intend to document the process I went through and hopefully the solution once its resolved to hopefully help others, although there seems to be so many similar issues around cooling systems!

Took delivery of my new 2025 Kodiaq vRS around a month ago now. Love it! Its got quite a few optional extras on it, as it was originally ordered for one of the staff, but while he was on holiday I asked if I could buy it instead before he had it 😆

I had the same concern as you many years ago, i like the mountain roads with curves and i found my factory seat a uncomfortable especially on the highways because has a ''support" on the area that the spine rests so here are the options: 1) You replace both seats to look good with after market '''Racing style" plus new rails but this means extra cost, my wife said to me when i suggest it ''simply NO WAY". 2) You give your seat to a car upholstery shop to make a modification so would look "like a Recaro" as they say which means will reinforce the sides but automatically you forget the after market seat covers and you will go for a custom made. 3) You buy 2 front seats from another car but this means extra work to the repair shop for the railways plus you have to buy 2 kinds of seat covers because the ''original'' will not fit. 4) You can modify a little bit your seat which means you remove it,put it down to a table or even to the floor and with a sharp knife you remove some of the factory sponge especially on the area that i mention before thus your body will rested a little bit better ''inside" the seat, i have done it (was my idea before the auto forum era) and i am very happy all these years. With the 3rd way you can buy seat covers with factory dimensions which they will fit with no problem. Here are mine,you can not see the difference but when you sit is much better than the factory one but i wish i had adjustable seats as other expensive models.