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56k* and under - no warning 62k and over - warning Tested on 9N Polo and 6Y Fabia. * abbreviation of kilohm, thousands of ohms, so threshold is somewhere between 56000 and 62000 ohms.

I think the copy editor was asleep at the time ...

My wife and I are about to be tested for Covid-19 so I thought it would be of interest to share our experiences: Day 1 I'm a 67-year-old retired caucasian male in good general health and with well-controlled Diabetes type-2. I also suffer from mild hay fever. My wife is a 66-yearold caucasian female with chronic (but not severe) asthma and is still teaching from home. I signed us up for the "Covid-19 Symptom Study" (a collaborative initiative between Zoe and Imperial College, London: https://covid.joinzoe.com/) a couple of weeks back and have been making daily reports via their Android app on how we're feeling. Three days ago I felt a bit "under the weather" with a mild headache, sore throat and some hoarseness. I duly reported this on my daily update together with my consistently normal temperature. The headache cleared that day but the mild sore throat re-appeared each subsequent morning before clearing up after a couple of hours. The hoarseness is still present. This morning I was advised by email from the Covid study that they had partnered with the Department of Health (DOH) to extend the testing regime to include those of us in the study who had reported symptoms which could be indicative of a Covid infection. I was advised to book a test for myself and my wife and to regard ourselves as possible infectees until we got the results. I had already managed to obtain some face masks and gloves and already had plenty of disinfectants to hand. I've also had experience of contamination control in chemical, biological, nuclear and medical environments so the necessary disciplines are second nature. I duly logged on to the DOH testing site at about 0830 and followed the guidance to book two postal test kits. As I understand the instructions the kits will be delivered in the next 48 hours and the sample collection regime and kit collection procedures are clearly laid out - in essence, book a courier for tomorrow, register the kit, use the nose and throat test swabs between 2100 and 0700 the following day and wait for the courier to collect. Results to be sent (email or text) within 2-3 days. Just FYI the signup process is straightforward but the email responses are quite slow, taking up to 20 minutes to arrive. So now we wait ...

Just did the common mod today, got rid of a couple of chrome rear badges. A less cluttered rear end me thinks.

Thanks all, after all that I managed to find a deal for PS4's for not much more so went for 4 of those. Here's hoping they're as good as everyone eveywhere makes out!

I nearly wore mine out doing just that! The biggest pleasure that it gave me though was buying a pair of them with various ball ends for next to nothing and finding that fitting just one worked fine (the other would have needed lots of bracketry). My UK next door neighbour has the same car, I offered the spare strut to him but he is Mr Panicky so turned it down, later on I had to fix a driveshaft for him that was doing its best to part company from the drivetrain, he had to go out so I fitted the gas strut in his absence and said nothing other than I had left him a mystery surprise. He found it nearly a month later and was quite pleased with it, I had left his old bonnet stay hidden under the variofloor just in case.

thats been standard here since lock down.. drop parcek, ring bell, bail out. i usually get as far as a thumbs up before they make it to the van, and a thank you shoutes across the yard...

Took mine for its first service today. Should have been done about a month ago but garage was closed due to you know what. Like Briskoda Jeff found at his dealers, mine was open for business (sales and servicing), hand sanitiser on the way in, all contactless etc. Masks if you wanted them (I had my own that SWMBO had made). To prevent them being tempted to wash the car, gave it a good clean this morning . Mentioned that I didn’t want them to wash the car, but as it turned out they weren’t washing them anyway. Sat and waited as arranged, less than 2 hours wait. Had taken my iPad, headphones and a flask of coffee as I knew refreshments weren’t available so the time soon passed. Car back in perfect condition, cost me nothing as I got a free 2 year service plan when I bought the car. I’m sure it’s running better though 😂 Came back the scenic way, so nice to be out and about. 83 miles (round trip is 36 anyway). Happy days, and excellent service from Simpson’s in Colne

The police arrested at least 19 people protesting about the lockdown in Hyde Park today, one of them was Piers Corbyn. https://news.sky.com/story/coronavirus-arrests-in-hyde-park-as-lockdown-protesters-denounce-fake-virus-11989409

As far as i know only vcds can do it.

Welcome to my ignore list.

@newbie69 that is huge difference disable something completely or add device which remembers your last choice i have OBDeleven and have option to disable, but i like Start-Stop not because fuel economy, but i really enjoy a minute of silence when waiting on red light

I think it looks better without the badges, although I need my rear wiper to clearly see the enemy behind me in the rain.

Look at your V5 certificate 🙄

After having three Octavias it's time for a change so ordered an "in stock" Kamiq, Race Blue with the present Skoda offers. SEL dsg 1.5tsi. It's got the winter pack and rear view camera. Sitting in Germany waiting to get shipped to UK so delivery next month, I hope. All three Octavias have been good apart from one replacement turbo under warranty.

Looks like the problem is solved. Looks like oil dropped on the connector when changing the filter, prob causing a short and high resitance. Stripped and cleaned the connector and the battery is getting charged again at 14V. Dropped back down to 12V after a while, but when putting load on (heated seats, AC, lights etc) it shot back up to 14V. Seems to be ok again. So lesson learned, be carefull when draining the oil filter!!

Software updates for everything (Engine ECU, ABS, Gearbox, Headunit, ACC, etc etc) are only done by the dealer if it is "mandatory" or classed as a service action by VAG. This is what they describe as "software updates & vehicle enhancements". It is just clever wording to make you think you will get real-time updates for everything (like is becoming more common now since Tesla came along). In reality its almost impossible to have a software update for free from the garage unless your complaint or fault is directly linked to a software update as a remedy. I managed to convince my dealer to update the infotainment software (because of the MIB1 issue where it resets at each keyon) but it took me 4 visits to the dealer & 20 minutes in the car with a technician who had clearly witnessed the issue several times. They offered (relucatantly) to do it because they accepted the behaviour was not right but said (as on previous visits) there were no improvements listed in their update database regarding these issues. They were right, as after two new firmwares over my 7 years of ownership it still has not solved the problem.

After owning the car for a good few months, I decided to take the engine cover off for the first time. It wasn't pretty under there and by the looks of it, hadn't been given too much attention over the years in terms of keeping it clean. I was wondering where the misting of oil on the right hand side of the engine was coming from and found a small split in the Creations Motorsport breather hose. This might be the cause of the misting, I'll have to see if it clears up when the new one turns up this week. I also discovered that there's been a lot of gunk building up in the pipes which took a bit of clearing out. I wasn't sure if a catch can would be a good idea or not for the future seeing as this is quite a lot of build up. I've put it all back together for now as I need the car for work next week and will mull over the catch can idea. Also, thanks to DeanVRS20VT for some behind the scenes advice on this.👍

Given the cost to park via residents permit, and that for the majority any vehicle would be parked up all week, I can't imagine that many are in the scheme? The majority of friends in London are close to the CC zone, work inside it, and just tube/bus everywhere. London is quite easy to be carless compared with the rest of the UK

Unfortunately I can’t bring myself to pay the extra. I usually order through work and fit my own at work but because of the size of these our machine won’t do it so having to pay normal prices is bad enough already!

If you can stretch your budget either Michelin PS4 or the even better PS4S are excellent on wet or dry roads and last longer than the P Zeroes.

I have the 'Best Shots' album...............on vinyl.

I think they would just get a bigger robot........... Think of how many jobs these 2 and 4 legged robots will be the replacement of dogs and humans and how you do not have to worry about Covid issues ?

This ages me a little, always for me Clodagh Rodgers. Remember jack in the box Eurovision 71?

Not tested "hard" yet, but I can feel a stiffened rear, The front is quite soft of course. Well, for a 70€ upgrade, I'm happy

They’re the 18‘s. They’re on 225/40 rubber which (I think) is as they came from the factory. They possibly look that way cos I took the pic just after I’d jacked the car up and fitted them so the springs are sitting higher in that picture than they actually sit in real life. Makes it look a bit like a scout which it isn’t. Looking much nicer now.

@penguin17 I don't know what kind of cleaning agent you've used, but they may be too agressive, to make your Superb shrink and turned into a Golf!😮🤔

Yep. Performance is desirable, stopping is essential!

Right I'm off out to the car now for another gas strut opening fix......

Achallenge, I'm Still struggling to get one to fit but will add some more clips, this weekend. Had them in a good few days now and I have to say I don't notice the join really, still good visibility. Best thing about the rear door blinds is I can leave the windows open on my sites I visit to stop car getting hot, and not get sewage treatment flies in the car anymore💩the little 's are a right pain to get out.

Nobody with VCDS/OBDeleven near you Jeff? It's the first thing I turn off permanently on all cars, by far the biggest gimmick in the automotive world. Actually, it would be ok if it was just a gimmick, the issue is it can be quite upsetting and borderline dangerous in certain conditions if you aren't ready to "drive around" it.

If you have young kids and their feet can reach the backs of the front seats then seat protectors are a worthy investment. The SportLine seats do indeed make life difficult for seat protectors as well as TV/DVD/Tablet holders. Most seat protectors use an adjustable strap that on ordinary seats would clip around the headrest stems, I'm sure they will be almost as effective on the SportLine seats... I bought these, and whilst they are on my Scout, so not the sports seats, I reckon they'll work OK... If you're thinking about protection don't also forget the pads for under the child seats. These are genuine Skoda pads but there are similar versions available on Amazon. Be sure they have the gel mesh on the underside to help prevent submarining and the slots to allow access to the ISOFIX brackets... See page 6 and 8... You'll also notice the genuine rubber floor mats, but also the transmission tunnel protector, probably the best £11 I've spent... http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/KODIAQ/Kodiaq-original-Skoda-rubber-mat-over-the-rear-tunnel Running boards divide opinion. They were a must for me. Young kids and their shoes clambering over the sills results in scratched paint, the running boards are the perfect height for little kids to step onto and then fully clear the sill. They also allow my kids to step back out of the car onto the running board to reach the door so that they can shut them themselves. If you plan on washing the roof, or transporting bikes on the roof, or fitting a roof box then again they are brilliant. They also look great too. At £700 fitted they aren't cheap, but don't be tempted to buy non-genuine aftermarket boards, they're nowhere near as good quality. The fact they also help to protect the underside of the sills from gravel rash is great too. More pictures of mine can be found here... https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/443868-running-boards-expensive-bauble-or-useful-accessory/ Definitely avoid the dealers offer of the Autoglym LifeShine. It's worth £30 and an hours worth of labour tops. I've had a car ceramic coated last year, not the Kodiaq but our other car. The bulk of the cost is the time taken with paintwork correction before the ceramic coating is applied. Given your car is brand new the paintwork should be in good condition, so don't spend the £600-£800 on the full correction, ask for the £150 ceramic coating instead. I'm not a big fan, sure the car beads well, but then it does after a quick going over with a spray-on quick detailer. A decent polish lasts a good few months too. Remember, even the best ceramic coatings require a 6 monthly top-up, regardless of what any of the manufacturers claim. It is a good quality polish so try not to get sucked into all the marketing hype. I won't be spending that sort of money again.

Netherlands introducing eating in a greenhouse outside (maximum 4 people) with your food served on a long plank. BBC News today.

Driving like a fanny wouldn't put a smile on my face

My home is about 130 years old, and would appear to have been chopped and changed many times over that period. To the point I have the main cables for both my neighbors next to my fuse panel. The sub contractor Smart Meter installer took one look and said, "Nope, I'm only Tier(?) 1 compliant, you need a Tier 3" and off he went. Tier 3 compliant Smart Meter installer turns up. Removed what he had to. Installed what he had to. Made a few comments that I'll likely need to update or upgrade in the future, but as is all is fine. And off he jolly well left. That was last year, and I've had no issues. And more importantly I've had no one coming around at Stupid O'clock in the morning or evening asking to read my meter! HTH FALS

M3 is a BMW isn't it? 😈 I agree that the Enyaq will have its work cut out at that price point, competing with base level Model 3 but I don't think they are competitors for the reasons you make above. The Tesla Model Y is more like a rival for the Enyaq - a mid size crossover. By the time the Enyaq gets to the UK the Model Y will be selling here. I've extended my current lease to see if Model Y or Enyaq / ID.4 fulfil my needs and are within price range. (Like you we have two dogs needing transport.)

There may be one good thing to come of all this............ Hopefully future governments (not getting into politics, or who's to blame) will realise the massive importance of the NHS and invest accordingly......... ..............Hopefully.

Imposter!

Rather than looking for bulbs with the "CANBUS friendly" marketing w*nk, check that the bulbs you've bought have a load resistor on them: it's likely to be buried away in the literature somewhere. Bulb systems are calibrated on the assumption that the bulb has a certain resistance, therefore drawing a certain load from the battery which the system can monitor for. LEDs inherently have a much lower load (they can produce a lot more light for a given amount of input power) so in a system not calibrated for them they'll cause errors, either bulb out warnings or the hyperflash you're seeing on your indicators. Drop in LED replacements for filament bulbs need a load resistor added to mimic the load of the filament bulb; annoyingly some marketing muppet in the past associated this with CANBUS thus the term has stuck with no technical reason for it*. So, make sure the LEDs you're putting in are designed to be filament drop-in replacements. Out of curiosity actually, have you put these on both front and rear, or just the front? It occurs to me that if it was filament rear and LED front on each side that if there was a small difference in resistance that it might throw out the bulb monitoring system just enough to cause problems like this. It might be worth trying to put the two LEDs on the same side of the car (front/rear) to see if it changes things. * Pre CANBUS cars with bulb out warning systems (yes they exist) will behave the same way with LEDs that don't have a load resistor.

Got it back after the variable service, DSG service and first MOT. Heritage were as good as their word, and the front shocks were replaced at no cost under warranty. Arrangements at the showroom were as professional today as they were yesterday and I didn't have to go near the service receptionist to complete the transaction. They even charged the battery and checked the tyre pressures for me as I haven't been able to do either recently, and they apologised and offered a free valet later on as they are not cleaning cars as part of the service at the moment (I won't be taking them up on it, but appreciated the gesture). Really good service all around, and a massive improvement on last year. I gave it a good run after pick-up to make sure the DSG was running as expected (normal, sport and manual modes all engaged at some point), including some fast acceleration in sport once up to temperature. Everything is working perfectly, and the front end is noticeably quieter and more responsive. I never thought I would say this after last year's fiasco, but credit where it is due. Heritage have done a really good job with great customer service and I'm delighted with the outcome. And it was great to be back in the car, even if only for a short while.

Took it into Heritage Bristol for a variable service (way early due to lockdown, but I like new oil every year at least), DSG service (4k early but sensible for me to get everything done at the same time) and first MOT (needed from start of June). Arrived at 8am and was very impressed with the set-up. Fixed drop-off time so no other customer in the show-room. Large table with labelled envelopes for keys. Service receptionist at least 5 metres away. She confirmed what needed to be done and I was on my way. There was no walk-around of the car, so I will have to trust them not to prang it, but in the current circumstances that seems more than fair enough. All-in-all a very professional arrangement. At 9am I got a call from the service receptionist. Tech has advised new shocks needed on the front (I thought it had been a bit "crashy" the last couple of times I have driven it, but put it down to the fact that I was driving on Bristol's terrible local roads rather than the nation's slightly less terrible motorways). To be done under warranty, no questions asked. Parts will be in tomorrow morning and I can pick it up tomorrow evening. I'm a very happy bunny so far. One moral of the story is that if you can possibly get a service in before the warranty runs out, it could save you a fair chunk of cash (or an argument about what was or wasn't broken when the warranty ran out).

Hi thanks for the advice and agree there is a profit to be made but at present I’m going to keep it as it’s been one of my favourite cars over ever owned. I might eventually replace it but I’m already getting a lot of work done on it and have spent a lot on and sometimes it’s better the devil you know! Thanks everyone you’ve all been helpful with my question! cheers paul

Maintenance wash. P&S Brake Buster on wheels and CarPro Reset for the rest. Car has a Fireball Dok Do ceramic coating - topped it up with Fireball's Ultimate Coating Wax.

Hi @Goose35 Apologies for the slow reply - I've just got back home, and as you may already have gathered, I don't get out much. Yes, absolutely. If you look at the image above I posted (on Tuesday 3rd at 19:49) you'll see the cable of which you speak entering the same cavity as the one from which the water is exiting. The 'spring' is a toughened steel cable with a spiral-wound outer strand which engages with a sprocket on the motor to drive the glass open and shut. The translucent outer cable finishes at the point where it meets this cavity, so any water which has entered this cavity is free to migrate into the outer cable. If you look along the sides of the roof, you should see that there's the opportunity to get into this cable with some WD40 or similar, to stop any water-induced deterioration. Good luck with your repair. If this article helps, tweet it, 'like' it, put it on BookFace. Whatever. Give me love. Best regards.

Hi @PanoYeti Yup, I was there too ... I probably spent around eight hours analysing and conducting a series of tests to determine the probable cause. I'm not sure which side of the eight hours you are yet, but it does at least sound as if you've got the headlining out, as you refer to the rectangular hole? Have a look a the image below. Does it look familiar? It's a crop from the reduced sized image that constitutes Figure 5 in my document. Look closely and you'll see no fewer than 3 drips emanating from the rectangular hole. This is from the O/S. That's the side that I repaired in-situ, and the side that I described as leaking about as severely 'as if the roof had been left wide open'. Now you could go ahead and remove the drain tube, plug the stub and 'pond' the water as I did to establish with some conviction the point of ingress (if you haven't already done so), or you could take a leap-of-faith and invite Captain Tolley to the party. I'd suggest that you read my document again, and when you've read it, read it again. When writing it (and as always) I chose my words very carefully. Good luck, and once again keep us posted. Best regards

My 280 is quieter inside in normal driving than my previous E class Merc until you start to use the revs when it makes a very pleasant noise. I think most 280 owners would complain if it did not have the sporty sound when you used the evs. Don't know about the outside.