KenONeill

Which minuet(s) did you use, and does this mean that ICE was operating correctly even though nothing else was? (testing the battery, and I think the strip fuses)

Which engine/trim level 306? And did you really just say it's a better classic IYO than a 205 GTi!?

It's on the options sticker, usually on the boot floor/floorpan, sometimes also in the service and/or owner's manual, somewhere on the engine block. and you may be able to derive it from the V5 and/or the chassis number.

I haven't managed to fully understand all the details, but some Skodas (not clear from an account that doesn't include the engine code if this is one of them) have a variable volume water pump, which sometimes sticks giving symptoms like overheating. That you don't report any symptoms other than high engine temperature makes me think this may well be the case. The bad news is that I'm afraid it doesn't really leave any "evidence" that engine diagnostics will find.

Afraid that Skodas don't have a FIAT style "girlie button" for the steering.

It actually happened to me, but I was driving at the time when the camshaft stopped and the crankshaft didn't!

A Bitter?

Correct presumption. But, if you set the tyre pressures say clockwise from RHF, to be 10, 20, 30 and 40 PSI, and then set the TPMS, have you not just set it based on what the pressures were when you set it? Your issue was that one tyre is a different rolling diameter to the other 3, and indirect TPMS presumes that all 4 tyres have similar rolling diameters.

I was always told that was the (still nominal) tread width, not the width of the tyre sidewall.

Either way, the cambelt tensioner is not operating correctly, and it is only great good fortune that has had this detected whilst the engine is stopped. Has it failed whist you were driving, a fortunate result would have been one broken camshaft. Worse results might include 2 broken camshafts, one or more chipped pistons and a rod through the block.

@Fenno D9AAN hasn't posted in a year, and shy... got permabanned for being an idiot. Having posted, I'd start by asking "what is a stage 2 upgrade anyway?"

Shipping - Ask supplier. Taxes - 20% of order value including shipping. Oh and the supplier (In this case Royal Mail) will charge another £13 for collecting the tax and passing it on to HMR&C.

As @JR RS says above, you've confused the wheel speed sensors with an odd diameter wheel. This could affect any or all of ABS, TPMS, traction control and limp mode. In this context, you do realise that you are not supposed to drive more than 50 miles or drive at over 50mph on a space saver wheel?

@Felix2021 Blocked for @$$hatted arrogance.

Maybe, but the glowplugs on mine have been FUBAR since I bought it in 2005, and still starts on the button until the temperature is ~-20C. Apparently your 2 cars work differently from anything the other 3 contributors to this thread have driven between them.

As a positive, this means you didn't buy any snake oil yesterday. I agree with @roottoot and @PetrolDave about scanning with a better scanner, and then fix those faults only.

Which has nothing whatsoever to do with the charging circuit!

There's loads of meat on the pictured outer pad. As @erindad above, I suspect an issue with a sensor delete , and if this is same as the mk1 "wear sensor" it only monitors the LH inner pad anyway.

The battery light should only go off when the battery receives a positive charge. This doesn't happen until the engine is running. If the light doesn't extinguish at this point, I'd suspect an issue with the alternator or the alternator controls.

Correction inline, bold.

Octavia L&K in black, and you'll get black leather door cards from it too.

Did the supplying garage suggest using snake oil? If so, then they know they've f*cked up somewhere.

Does the car type approval data plate quote a towing weight? Not all Skodas do, so this is the first thing to check these days.

@ZakG010 @DeanVRS20VT @kentphil1 - I've seen the same issue myself, more normally with people who've "fitted" Morette twin round conversions thinking them to be plug and play.

An independent specialist will have the same tools as a main stealer, but only charge about 2/3 as much for a job.