langers2k

I'm not 100% sure what you mean by "setting up Hellphase and the whiskers on his LED lights". At a guess, it feels like you want the LED whiskers to flash with the indicators. Having looked at the adpmap, it suggests your trying to get the front fogs to flash with the indicators: ENG116938-ENG115928-Leuchte2SL VLB10-Dimming Direction GH 2,minimize ,16 ENG116938-ENG115927-Leuchte2SL VLB10-Dimmwert GH 2,25 ,16 ENG116938-ENG115925-Leuchte2SL VLB10-Lichtfunktion G 2,Blinken links Hellphase ,16 ENG116939-ENG115947-Leuchte3SL VRB21-Dimming Direction GH 3,minimize ,16 ENG116939-ENG115946-Leuchte3SL VRB21-Dimmwert GH 3,25 ,16 ENG116939-ENG115944-Leuchte3SL VRB21-Lichtfunktion G 3,Blinken rechts Hellphase ,16 If you can confirm exactly what you want to achieve I'll take a closer look. I've not played with this stuff on my car but I have some ideas As for transport mode, it can be sometimes left enabled from new but I'm not sure how much it effects things. Personally, I would have disabled it but I doubt it super important if most things seem happy. If you have an original scans/adaption maps (ideally all modules) for this car, can you PM them across assuming the original owner is happy to share them? Curious to see what changed between the MY18 'edition' and MY20 'challenge' 245 cars. Note to future me: Leuchte16BLK and Leuchte17TFL edit: Oh, one other quick note, it looks like the second rear fog has been enabled on this car. At the moment Leuchte26NSL LA72-Lasttyp 26 is set to 40 - allgemeine LED. I'd suggest using 32 - allgemeine LED bis 12W instead so it matches the other fog lamp. I doubt it makes any real difference it just feels more correct to me

I did see the Lidl stuff but I think it went out of stock almost immediately round here. More worrying is at least on the UK Lidl page it says "When it's gone, it's gone" so I've no idea what their long term plans are. I assume it's just rebranded kit from another manufacturer, possibly silvercrest? It's just a shame that Google Home can't connect to local devices like Alexa can, instead it needs a cloud connection for the initial setup otherwise Tasmota powered things would be perfect :(

@Rustynuts might have a spare dvd drive he could sell you depending on the postage costs to Norway...

There just CSV files, Microsoft Excel or Openoffice Calc are ideal to open them Even notepad can read them but it'll look quite confusing

I'm pretty sure it was soot calculated that triggered it. The regen started shortly after the calculated went over 18g which tallies with this graph from a VW SSP and 576km seems an odd maximum between regens. Had another look through the logs I have, I've attached the only two that seem to have RPM and Particle filter: difference pressure: - log_0001.CSV - log_0002.CSV There should be some section with the engine idling (probably the start and end of the log?) and the rest is normal driving. Best I can do I'm afraid as I no longer have the car

Pretty similar here, I've got a mix of Google Home, Philips Hue (lamps, switches, one Ikea LED driver) and Sonos gear. This year I grabbed some Sonoff smart plugs and flashed tasmota so my Christmas light timers are a cron job which works well. At some point, I want to try to try and get them linked to Google Home but that'll be harder now gbridge is defunct. I find that Hue works great with sunset timers and Google Assistant voice control. Sonos control tends to be easiest via their app. By far the most common thing is using Google Assistant to set a timer for my coffee brewing

A regen can be trigger by either the calculated or measured soot level This is an example on my old car (2.0l CFHC CR140) showing the calculated level hitting 18g and causing a regen: Unfortunately, I never did much logging of the DPF pressure sensor and I no longer have the car. Looks like I did a few random logs looking at different things each drive though: I've attached the original CSV files from VCDS if that helps: logs.zip While I appreciate it's a different engine, it's the same generation so I'd expect the data to be somewhat similar

Just replied to your PM, although now I know you're looking to fit it to a MK3 Octavia you should ignore the links/parts I mentioned. Anyway, our Russian friends have already achieved this There might be part differences for a LHD vs RHD car but the following links should give a general idea: - https://www.drive2.ru/l/530242782103601378/ - https://www.drive2.ru/l/494265662131142870/ Just check the pins match for your ECU, Wiring diagrams can be found from Skoda for a small fee: https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do

The OBDStar x300M seems to be a mileage correction tool rather than an OBD reader...? All MK3 Octavia's are based on the MQB platform but there are various manufactures for the instrument cluster over the years. This shouldn't effect checking fault codes etc. For reference, 5E0920871D is made by VDO but I've no idea if odometer adjustment is possible using an x300M. For general code reading/clearing, diagnostics and service resets, something like VCDS seems like a better choice as it's much more common.

Carista is being rubbish and giving the wrong description for the ABS error code, it's actually a common TPMS fault code... As for the others: - 131586 suggests a low battery voltage at some point - 05898 I've no idea about - 263442 could be an alarm issue - 204546 means one of your keys may have a low battery If I were you, I'd make sure the TPMS system is set properly (after checking the pressures) and replace the battery in your keyfobs. Then clear the fault codes and rescan in a week or so to see if any come back

The two can bus wires should be obvious enough, they'll be the pair twisted together. You'll probably find the colours on the tpms wiring also match them so I'd try that first. If you still want the wiring diagram, you can get it from https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do for a small fee.

Your MK2 Octavia is electrically very different to a MK7 Golf so the instructions in that video won't work for you. Current VCDS release is 20.12.0 which can be downloaded from here: https://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/download/current.php Once you updated, post an autoscan and we can go from there

What do you mean by modifying the bulb options? With that style of BCM, the lighting config is a part of the BCM EEPROM which VCDS can't access. Typically, you'll need VCP or ODIS-e to tweak the lighting config. It might be better to say what you're trying to achieve

Maybe try a skoda dealer as I'm not familiar with shopping in your country. Have you checked for fault codes using vcds? Looks like the cluster might be loosing can bus communication which could be down to wiring. At the very least, I'd check the short wiring loom that connects to the rear of the instrument cluster for damage.

Ebay?

Depends what it is... I'd expect them to hold stock of popular items. If it's something more uncommon it might be in a national warehouse. The rarest/most unusual items will probably come from Germany or the Czech Republic.

There's a DCC mod going round that I thinks takes an Arteon dataset/parameter file to give a slider rather than discrete normal modes: Not sure exactly what's involved or any pre-requisites but it suggests you can go stiffer than sport - https://www.drive2.com/l/567978296046780450/

If you want electronic adjustable damping, then you'll either need to retrofit DCC or an aftermarket solution such as the KW DDC ECU kit (which comes with it's own control module and BT app)... If you just want adjustable damping, something like the Bilstein B16 might be suitable as they have an adjustment knob on the shocks

The DPF is no where near the maximum soot mass so it should regen. Oil ash is relatively high but that's expected on a car with 120k miles. Based on this Audi TSB, you may need a software update to resolve the fault: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/MC-10128396-9999.pdf I think 9416 exists for your engine which may resolve the issue and should still be pre-emissions fix. The latest is 9980 but that will contain the emissions fix

I'm pretty sure there is a fuse for the lighting on the left and another fuse for the lighting on the right. If only the DRL aren't working, it's unlikely to be a fuse

You should download the workshop manuals for your car from: https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do Failing that, it'll probably be in a similar location to the MK7 Golf: - http://www.vwgolf.org/overview_of_fitting_locations_v_control_units_front_of_lhd_vehicles-2675.html - http://www.vwgolf.org/removing_and_installing_headlight_range_control_unit_j431_control_unit_for_cornering_light_and_headlight_range_control_j745_lhd_vehicles-2596.html The error code you posted is pointing at the front level sensor... I thought that was pretty clear from the description: Left front level control system sensor Open circuit/short circuit to B+

That looks like the suspension level sensor and it's wiring are are fault, not the AFS module. I'd start by inspecting the level sensor on the front left suspension and it's wiring for damage

From what I understand, the WLTP certification requires the car reset to 'normal' so this functionally it built in to the CAN gateway software from around MY19 (3Q0 907 530 AA and newer). Unless someone is able to modify the CAN gateway software, I don't think it'll be possible to disable it on a MY21. You could try an older CAN gateway but that may cause issues with other modules :(

@Taz1983 - the cool blue boost aren't brighter than other xenon's. If anything, they'll be dimmer. The way they've increased the colour temperature is by adding a blue filter on the bulbs, reducing the total light output. That's the reason they aren't road legal. Still, I agree it's best to stay with road legal ece approved versions 👍

If you've coded the camera in and removed it, that could cause issues. If you post an autoscan from VCDS or similar it might give us some ideas