langers2k

Take a look at the headlights as they're easy to tell apart A FL-MK2 looks like this: A pre-FL MK3 looks like this:

I'm not sure, I've not had to deal with that age of AFS slave yet. A quick google is pretty inconclusive About the only mention is here https://www.drive2.ru/b/475582485674066151/ The 'fifth story' suggests there is some kind of parameterision but I've no idea if it's for the AFS master, AFS slave or both...

Maybe start with an autoscan to check for fault codes. Then see if there are any measuring blocks to see the dial position? V159 appears to be the right flap motor looking at this: https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/yeti/heating_ventilation_air_conditioning_system/heating_air_conditioning/air_conditioner/climatronic_air_conditioner_with_automatic_regulation)/overview_of_control_motors_at_the_air_conditioning_unit_right-hand_drive/ That makes me think it's unlikely to be that flap at fault...

If you want wireless Android Auto, try wirelessAA https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/aawireless#/ Given the OP asked about CarPlay, the Carlinkit is probably fine...

Yes, I expect they would need coding after fitting. I haven't got an adpmap from a suitable Kodiaq but it should be pretty obvious what needs changing. In short, you'll need to activate whichever light channels you connect them to by setting the bulb type, functions and brightness.

I haven't got one handy but there is an adpmap with 10 colours here: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/24363/ The only thing needed to expand it to 30 colours is to fill out the 11-30 colour options In what way have you broken it? Any fault codes? Do you have your current and old adpmap's?

Any garage with a headlight alignment tool should be able to calibrate the low beam using the normal method and adjustment screws. There shouldn't be anything extra due to SLA... If the front facing camera or suspension has been changed, then you'll need to perform calibration. If it's just the headlight, a normal headlight alignment should be fine...

Are you sure the LED's are fitted? There are a few different inner tail light part numbers so I'd be surprised if they were fitted but not enabled. At a guess, you're going to need two new inner tail lights and to add the appropriate wiring as per the factory wiring diagram. Someone over in Russia has done something similiar: https://www.drive2.ru/l/542576004032366169/

It'll will depend if it's fitted with a lowline or highline reversing camera: - Lowline cameras are connected to the reversing lights so will only work in reverse - Highline cameras can be enabled using the parking button or selecting reverse You'll get the parking button if you have self-parking or front+rear parking sensors. If you only have rear sensors there is no button... The easiest way to tell if it's lowline or highline is by watching the guidelines when you move the steering wheel. A lowline camera has static guidelines but a highline will have moving guidelines As for wide angle view, I believe that's also a highline only function. Here's a pic from my Octavia (same camera system) showing what it looks like:

I think the GPF came in with the MY19 update so it'll be on some '68 plates depending on their build date. You can get the MY (model year) from the VIN to help figure that out. I've attached a Nov 2017 brochure which shows the normal vRS and the 245 limited edition spec. The differences are: You should be able to ask the supplying dealer for the build spec to check for any extras. Octavia Brochure Nov 2017.pdf

You probably want this:

If you have a MK3 Octavia, it'll have a MIB2.5 headunit which doesn't support wireless carplay

I think (not 100%) that the two AFS slaves share a fuse so given one is communicating, it's probably nothing to do with the work you've been doing in the fuse box. Worth checking the WD if you have it. Typically with this kind of issue, step one is to check for signs of water ingress between the AFS slave and the headlight. You might be able to access it if you remove the wheel arch liner as they live on the underside of the headlights.

That really depends on the health of your battery... My take is you *could* have issues due to a low or failing battery but assuming the it's in good condition, it *should* be perfectly fine to upgrade without a battery charger. I certainly had no issues without a battery charger

Excellent news! Glad it was something simple even if it was a pain to find

The vRS 18's are called Gemini's: - 18"x7.5J ET51 - 225/40 R18 92Y tyres The vRS 19's are called Xtreme's: - 19"x7.5J ET51 - 225/35 R19 88Y tyres Both share the same 5x112 PCD and 57.1mm centre bore and will be fine over the 340mm front disks. I'm not sure how much difference in ride quality/comfort there is between them as the sidewall height only changes by ~11mm so it's not much...

The cables look identical to the ones I used when I added a RVC to my MK3 Octavia here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/485897-how-to-reverse-camera-fitting-guide/?do=findComment&comment=5456364 Only the images in the link I posted above. There isn't much to it really, you have 6 wires you need to connect: - white is permanent 12v, it should have it's own fuse (probably 7.5a in position 18) and the crimp maybe the correct one to slot into the fuse board - brown is ground, it probably has a ring crimp and any ground point it fine - the two twisted orange (and brown/purple) cables are CAN-bus and need matching to the existing colours - the separate black wire is video, black is likely ground and white is signal, it connects to the blue socket as shown in the image you posted The coloured sockets are removable from the quadlock and will slide out when you push the locking tab. Once they are out, the sides flip open allowing you to add or remove wires. For the CAN-bus: - the original CAN-bus wires will need removing from the grey socket - they will now go to the new black connector included in the pack, it's probably loosely slotted in - the two new wires can then slot in to the grey socket - connect the black connector up So it'll look sorta like this:

A Skoda dealer will only be able to apply the FeC's applicable for the VIN so they won't be able to change the map region FeC for you. @pab567 might be able to help though...

I think the map region is protected by a FeC which Skoda won't sell you... You will probably need to find someone who can hack the headunit and add the appropriate FeC for you

The white wire will be power

It should be obvious which slot the fuse belongs in, it'll be the only one with metal contacts on both sides of the fuse slot

Yup, how quickly the AFS functionally works for cornering lights.

It changes the throttle response, the steering assistance, the speed of the lights etc etc...

Yup...

Disconnect the three plugs on the BCM and see if anything changes with the voltage to the door controllers. You should perform an autoscan while it's disconnected too. I'd be very surprised if the BCM was causing your issues though as it's not in the power path for the door controllers.