langers2k

You should be able to short the two wires together for the brake pad warning to disable it. If not, you can code the warning out with VCDS or similar.

I had assumed you would have a Bolero/Amundsen which look sorta like this with a physical 'App' button: If instead you have a Columbus, it'll look like this: If you press 'Menu' there should be a 'Smartlink' option which will show a screen like this:

I would expect a '19 plate car to have Smartlink+ with both AndroidAuto and Apple CarPlay enabled... If you press the 'App' button on the radio, both should be shown and it'll ask you to connect a device.

I don't mean to sound like a broken record but that really is the first thing to figure out. There are no switches, relays or anything interesting on the power/ground path for the door controllers. It's just wires, joints and fuses... If I were you: - I'd disconnect all four door controllers while you do this (one or more may have internal faults although unlikely) - Check that the door fuse(s) have 12v on the output and are capable of supplying decent current without much voltage drop (test lamp with a 21w bulb is fine ~2a) - Check for continuity and load carrying capability along each power feed between the fuse(s) and the power consumer (door modules) - again test lamp is fine Hopefully that'll find a fault in either the power or ground wiring and after repairing, you'll get a solid 12v supply to all four doors. Once you have verified there are no wiring issues with the power feeds, you can then add the door controllers back in one-by-one and scan between each addition to see if they communicate and if the power rail stays happy. As the late, great Jack over on the Rosstech forums used to post:

While I agree it isn't an MOT issue, it could cause issues if the OP were to have an accident either caused by a faulty front assist system or would have been avoided had it been working. It'll depend on what you agreed to when taking out the insurance. No idea if it would cause issues in the real world or is just theoretical

I'd expect it behind a boot trim to keep the cable between it and the external antenna short. Part number 15 (https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/etka/skoda/sup/851/035350/)

5E0035874A seems to be an MIB1 Amundsen. This thread is for the Columbus so you might want to try the maps here: You'll also need to use an appropriate Skoda/VW SD card

You can access the official workshop manuals directly from Skoda: https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/ It's a pay per time slot service so I'd suggest a decent internet connection and saving as much as you can A 'print to pdf' function might help too...

Take a look with a borescope? I'd be worried that expanding foam would get everywhere, come out the top, bottom and any other hole along it... Maybe check if the top or bottom are open and use a spongy foam you can squeeze in and remove later?

A faulty BCM shouldn't stop the door controllers communicating... You can probably access the three connectors if you remove the trim in the drivers footwell. I don't have a guide or pictures unfortunately. It shouldn't be necessary to completely remove it yet. If the door controllers still don't show up with it disconnected, then it's unlikely to be related. Have you managed to get 12v to the door controllers yet?

They are different on the pre-FL and FL. The pre-FL seems to use: - 5E0 821 105 A/B https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5e0821105b-front-left-fender-skoda-21305.html - 5E0 821 106 A/B https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5e0821106b-front-right-fender-skoda-21306.html The FL seems to use: - 5E0 821 105 C https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5e0821105c-left-front-fender-skoda-32524.html - 5E0 821 106 C https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5e0821106c-right-front-fender-skoda-32525.html If you're buying used, make sure it came from the correct car...

The connector be shared amongst various antenna. You need the part number for the entire thing. It might be stamped on the base or possibly on a sticker stuck around one of wires.

There is no video input or connection for an external satnav, so no, I doubt this is possible... :(

If they have the same part number, they will be identical

When the 245 was first released, it had a few extra's compared to the a standard vRS. It seems to be known as the '245 edition'... Then towards the end of the MK3 vRS run, they released the challenge edition which also had a better spec than the standard vRS. I've attached a couple of brochures for you. Octavia Brochure Nov 2017.pdf Octavia Brochure Nov 2019.pdf

Can you add a log or some screen shots? It would be handy to see exactly what OBD11 is reporting and which module is unhappy. Most google hits seem to be Audi related so I expect something may be miscoded but it's had to say without more information.

It's not clear from your original post what you're trying to do or find out. You might need to give some context and tell us a little bit more At a guess, your radio has stopped working and that's the fault code stored in the CAN gateway??

You need TSR to get the speed limit to show in the cluster 👍

Yup, scanning with the engine running is fine 👍

A genuine VAG TPMS sensor can be had for sub £20 but obviously you will probably need to pay a tyre fitter to install it. Still, compared to most things that can go wrong on a car, it feels pretty cheap to me

Should be possible to retrofit it...

When they clone a key, it has exactly the same UID in the immo chip so the car can't tell the two keys apart. This means that if either of the two keys are lost, you can either: - remove the UID meaning neither can start the car - leave the UID meaning both can still start the car The former sucks as you then need two new keys, the latter sucks as someone may use the lost key to steal the car Depending how the key was lost, the latter may not be an issue... If it's newly cut and not pre-coded, with the right tools it should be possible to correctly pre-code it. However, a dealer can't... As mentioned in the article I posted, pre-coding came in around 2006 so your keys will definitely use it.

I'm not super familiar with a 2016 Rapid so this isn't gospel... - The remote fob is usually pretty easy. Tools like VCDS (probably OBDeleven) can ask the BCM to relearn them by pressing the lock buttons one by one. - The immobiliser (immo) chip is harder. You'll need a decent auto-locksmith with the right (specialist) tools and knowledge for your vehicle. At least when I was messing with stuff on a 2012 Octavia, there were two parts to the immo chip coding: - the immo chip is 'precoding' to the vehicle, this can only be done once and if a dealer orders a key, it'll come 'precoded', they can't do it themselves - the immo chip needs 'pairing' to the vehicle, this is normally done using Skoda's servers and can be done by a dealer using ODIS Whether the key you have will work, will depend on: - if it's not 'precoded', it's probably usable - if it's 'precoded' to your car, it should be fine - if it's 'precoded' to a different car, it's probably useless I think some 3rd party tools might be able to re-apply the 'precoding' but a dealer certainly can't. The other gag is that many auto-locksmith's simply clone an existing key rather than creating a new unique ID. This means that if you do misplace a key, you can't remove it from the car unless you replace both keys! I'm not 100% but I think the latest cars actually need a connection to Skoda to pair keys, not sure when this came in but I don't think a 2016 car will be effected. Basically it's all just a game of cat and mouse between VAG and the 3rd party tool creators. VAG make it harder for third parties to create/add keys, the 3rd parties reverse engineer the new immo version forcing VAG to change again, repeat, repeat... One take on a brief history for VAG immo and the 3rd party workarounds: https://lockmedic.com/2018/02/08/a-long-explanation-of-why-we-dont-do-vw-audi-keys-or-how-i-learned-to-stop-worrying-and-love-the-war/ Sorry - that seems to have gotten a bit long winded! In short, yes, immo work needs a good specialist: - if you're lucky, you may be able to reuse the existing spare - if not, you may need to order one from a Skoda dealer and have them sort it

Welcome @Steve001001 Can you post a VCDS autoscan along with an adaption map from 09 and I'll take a look

There are a few parts to the key: - the key blade which needs to be correct for the locks - the immobiliser chip which needs to be paired to the car and should never become unsync'ed - the remote fob which uses rolling codes and can become unsync'ed if used out of range repeatedly The remote fob is the only part that uses the battery so even if it's been removed or flat, you can unlock and start the car with it. Given only the key blade seems correct, it feels like a previous owner lost the original spare and did the bare minimum (eBay used key + new blade) to avoid fees when they handed the car back? Assuming you bought it from a dealer, you should go back and ask them to resolve this for you...