Warrior193

The only way I have seen is to systematically pull the fuse on the various modules - first making sure that the vehicle has entered 'sleep mode' to eliminate false readings from control modules that are still active. Opening a door to access interior fuse panel will, of course, wake them up again - so it may be a prolonged process. Good luck.

Ideally yes - but this shouldn't give rise to the apparent current drain issue.

I'm taking a bit of guess here as I have not seen a wiring diagram for your vehicle - but I think there should probably be two 12 V connections on the motor - 1 permanent and one switchable (live when the stalk is operated) As Pete says, check the relay.

Likely to be an internal fault with the self-parking contact. Does the wiper restart immediately when you push the stalk forward?

You have taken most of the depreciation hit on a new vehicle, why subject yourself to that again?

I have asked several tyre fitters about this, the consensus was that they would not consider repairing a tyre that had been sealed with 'gunk' because of the sheer messiness and difficulty in getting the puncture area sufficiently clean. I guess it's bad enough just getting the old tyre off the rim.

Or temporarily disable systems that appear unable to properly handle prevailing conditions.

I seem to recall another forum user asking a similar question - 'greyed-out' area around indicated location. If I recall correctly, it was due to poor satellite reception, but I don't remember if it was due to a signal reception issue (antenna) or temporary satellite triangulation errors.

I guess that is a slight possibility, but from the little I know about Diesels, it's extremely difficult to hear detonation even if it does occur - unlike a petrol.

I prefer to think of most of the driver assistance functions as a generally useful tool - but not for full reliance, as an assistance only - there will be occasions where the technology will get confused or misused, a case in point being the Tesla recall. Post crash mitigation braking is likely to be, potentially, the biggest life-saver. Seemingly, I am one of a very few who rate automatic idle stop as a useful feature, fag-packet calcs tell me that even a 10 second stop with engine idling makes a small but measurable increase in fuel consumption, not to mention the unnecessary emissions.

Hello, welcome to the forum. It's very likely that a VAG independent will have access - ask them for a confirmation.

Good morning Phil, I don't know what you were driving before, but I suggest taking a couple of test drives in likely-looking vehicles in dealers near you first. I think you will be pleasantly surprised with the performance and economy of even a lowly 1.4 TSI.

Hello Peter, welcome to the forum. A metallic knocking sound could suggest excessive wear in the connecting rod bearings (aka big end), are you getting low oil pressure warnings at idle speed?

The cell phone reminder is shown on the main infotainment display - the safelock message is displayed on the multifunction display.

Hello, are you sure of the wording of your first report message (a) Is the message actually 'Engine must be running' - which means that some function requires the engine to remain running. Message (b) - 'Power consumption is high' usually means that battery voltage is too low to allow idle stop to operate. Both messages together can be caused by a failing battery - have you had the battery tested?

It might not be terminal, mine has done it about 3-4 times over the past four years - the last time was a particularly frosty morning early last year. There seems to different information on here regarding the location of the slave cylinder on the M6 gearbox - some say it's external - others say it is an internal, concentric unit (gearbox off job) I confess that I haven't done a visual check on location of mine so far. Common opinion seems to be try replacing the master cylinder first if slave cylinder is concentric type.

Good morning @vinny47, happy New Year - assuming you have M6 gearbox, most likely to be failing clutch slave or master cylinder. Is this happening every time the clutch pedal is pressed?

The engine should at least crank-over if the immobiliser had been activated. Are you able to check what the battery voltage drops to when the key is turned to start position?

Hello Adam, have you checked that the battery hasn't failed/gone flat? Can you read the battery voltage on your DTC reader?

Hello @mantamad Suggest your brother try an approach to a VW or Audi specialist instead, I am shocked with the reported attitude of the local Skoda dealers - ten years is not exactly ancient in the Antipodean view of vehicles! Assuming that your brothers vehicle is DSG - and the gearbox issue was clearly not present before the head unit was changed, this is clearly due to the change - possibly not correctly coded or faulty adaptor? What is the audio 'specialist' going to do about bricking your brothers car?

I think the OP may be referring to the safelock message when you turn off ignition and remove the key.

Good morning Topcat, welcome to the forum. There is an option in the settings menu for disabling the automatic door locking. Is the message you see something like 'Safelock - check manual' ? - I believe this is a warning that the doors will deadlock, - it's a reminder to disable the deadlock function if passengers are to remain in the vehicle if you lock it.

Take a look at Vipa - I've fitted them to the Octavia and the Fabia, no complaints.

Try switching back to another drive mode to see if this behaviour changes. If it is the anti-stall cutting in, it sounds to me as if something is not quite right in the way it's working - especially in the higher gears.

In that case probably not what I was thinking your fault might be - my wife's 1.0 TSI tends to do this in first gear after a cold start, but ceases after about 100 metres - needs braking to keep speed down initially in first gear. I believe it's some sort of anti-stall, but is a lot more noticeable than my 1.4.