Warrior193

Fixed schedule is annual, even if fewer than 10K miles covered Flexible schedule is for vehicles that cover relatively high milage in a year and is either two years or a certain mileage. Longer runs are much better for the engine, where most of the miles are while the engine (and oil) is fully warmed up. Most of the wear and oil contamination occurs while the engine is not fully up to temperature.

How long has it taken to cover those miles? Probably not too much to worry about if majority of miles were on long runs.

Are you sure that the door locking isn't the anti-hijack system operating?

The 'Magic Eye' indicator only indicates the electrolyte level (I.e. still covering the plates) - it is not a reliable indication of actual condition.

That number of previous owners might well be a warning flag.

@Alex707070 Have you had the failed clutch inspected by an independent engineer yet?

Airlock is a possibility after the previous work on the water pump, suggest this to them and request they recheck for leak and refill the system using the correct method. Give them notice that if this does not fix the problem, you will reject.

It rather sounds as if this vehicle has had a history of coolant issues. Give them 1 chance to repair the leak, on the clear proviso that if they fail to fix it to your complete satisfaction, you reserve the right to reject for full refund.

I'd suggest that the workshop should not have released the vehicle with the interior door release inoperative - I believe that would be an immediate MOT fail, making the vehicle unroadworthy.

I think the grooves in the plunger will be oil galleries.

The inspection really should have spotted those historic faults - was a reader plugged into the OBD port during the inspection?

I'd still strongly suggest getting it properly load tested - unless you really want to try the 'waiting for breakdown van' experience.

Ones I have seen appear to adjust the link between the bourdon tube and the needle gearing.

I'd suggest having the battery tested after being charged - failing batteries can have a nasty habit of suddenly letting you down - the law of Sod will often dictate that failure to be in the most inconvenient place!

Pricing is other way round - AGM is more expensive than EFB - AGM should have superior performance and life.

Unfortunately, a stud conversion kit won't help OP in this particular case as the stud still requires a viable thread in the hub.

In which case it is possible that your calliper is not sliding freely on the rods - putting most of the braking effort onto one side of the disc and distorting it.

I think there may be references on the forum when members have overridden the sensor to allow control modules enter sleep mode while the hood is open. I haven't had occasion (yet) to get access to check that sensor - I bet that's put the hex on mine now!

There is a hood position sensor or switch located on or near the lower (body) latch. Do your windscreen wipers still work?

Difficult to check, but check that both inner and outer pistons are free to move in the caliper.

They make the job so much easier - a pair spaced one stud apart is best if the wheel has a considerable amount of offset.

Unfortunately, what almost certainly happened was the 1st bolt cross-threaded when you used the impact wrench on it and I'm not sure I'd trust a helicoil repair on the damaged thread - probably the best fix would be to replace the damaged hub. Also get yourself a pair of the tyre positioning pins for future use.

Try gently pushing the flap while pressing the unlock button - it's not uncommon for the flap lock servo to get a little sticky.

A simpler fix would be to affix a small picket to offside rear of trailer.

As far as I know, no radio code required - the infotainment system is locked to the vehicle monitoring system provided it remains with the vehicle to which it was installed.